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Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly Set (17-20 4WD F-150)

Item T576852
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$289.99 (pair)

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      Product Videos

      Justin: Hey, guys. Justin here with americantrucks.com. And today, we're taking a very quick look at and walking you through the install of a set of Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Assemblies, fitting your 2017 through 2020 four-wheel drive F-150. Now, you guys should be considering this affordable set for your four-wheel drive truck if you've recently started hearing a little noise coming from the front end and are looking for a budget-friendly set of replacements as opposed to forking out big money at your local Ford dealer.So the big feature here, guys, will be the fact that you are getting not one but two hub and bearing assemblies for your F-150 for around that low to mid $300 price point. Now maybe you or your shop have determined you need a new bearing and hub assembly after hearing some noise or getting some vibration out of the front wheel or wheels, and therefore it is time to start looking for a replacement. Now these guys will be a direct swap plug-and-play set that will get your truck right and new but without having to break the bank.The materials in construction will be identical to the stockers in just about every way, including both fronts fitting four-wheel drive trucks only. These guys are gonna feature the wheel studs already pressed into place, along with the plug-and-play ABS wire and sensor with a factory-style connector. Hub size and bolt pattern will be the same as stock, and the assemblies do get backed by a 2-year or 24,000-mile warranty against any defects.Price point for the pair of assemblies will hover around the low to mid $300 ballpark, which honestly, guys, is roughly what my local Ford dealer charges for a single side. So if you are looking to replace both at the same time, this is certainly gonna be a very budget-friendly choice.Now getting into the install here, guys, and the site is gonna call this a solid 2 out of 3 wrenches on the difficulty meter, taking you at least 45 minutes to complete from start to finish. But now we're gonna throw things to an AmericanTrucks customer to walk you through it on his F-150. Check it out.Man: All right, all the tools I used was a 1/2-inch torque wrench, 3/8 torque wrench, 1/2-inch breaker bar ratchet here, electric ratchet. Standard ratchet works just fine. Some grease, a couple of zip ties to hold the calipers up and smaller ones for the speed sensor that we had to zip tie, 3/8 impact, my 1/4-inch impact, 1/2-inch ratchet works just fine. And Scotch-Brite. We didn't use the Scotch-Brite when I'm using my die grinder here to clean off the face of the knuckle.A couple of things here that might help out. I got a 1/2-inch swivel, not really needed. I got 21 shallow socket, got my 21 deep socket. And I got my 22 somewhere around here. Yeah. You shouldn't need a 22. The only reason I use it is for aftermarket wheels. But if you don't have any aftermarket wheels, you shouldn't really never need a 22. Yeah, we got a deep 18.5-inch here, 13, 10, 8, another 13 there, and a shallow 18. I don't know if I said this or not, but this is my 18 swivel. Cutters to cut the zip ties. Shorter flathead screwdriver, a little bit bigger there, hammer, and a trim tool, a couple of flashlights, and helps out the install.In this video, I'm going to show you how to replace both front wheel hubs on a 2018 Ford F-150. Before we actually lift the vehicle, we have to disconnect the wheel speed sensors under the hood. On the driver's side, left, you'll see this connector that's right next to the air box on the firewall side. Go ahead and remove it, just any kind of small screwdriver. What you do is you'll get between this little red safety clip, and then we'll go ahead and push the tabs together. If I can get my hand in there. Use one hand to push on the release tab and the other to pull. That is disconnected. We'll show you the other side real quick too. The other side on the passenger, you have that connector right there next to the fuse box.Next step, we'll go ahead and start off with removing the dust cap on the front axle nut. I got a flathead screwdriver and hammer. And we'll try to gently pull out the dust cap without damaging it so we can reuse it. Trickiest to kind of walk around the dust cap. We've gotta keep it from getting damaged. Pry it all around a little bit and it'll pop right out. Next, go ahead and grab our 13-millimeter socket. Remove the axle nut.Next step, we'll go ahead and remove our 10-millimeter. That was the brake line and our 8 that holds the ABS wire. That was a 10. We'll switch to an 8. Next, we're going to separate the ABS wire from the brake hose, and we're going to pull this caliper off. Caliper bolt is a 21-millimeter. I'll be using my impact and silver socket to make the job a little bit easier here. And if you can also rotate that that way so you can get a little better access to the caliper bolts. Now you can remove the caliper from the bracket and remove the bracket or you can just take it all off at once. It doesn't really matter.Before we get that caliper off, go ahead and get yourself a zip tie so we can pull this caliper off and move it out of the way. You don't want to suspend the caliper down. That might put a lot of strain on your brake line. Let's see if I've got support here. We'll do that here on the sway bar. There we go.Once we get that out of the way, we'll go ahead and remove the ABS wire out of the way. Get yourself a little trim tool to remove that. We got one here, one a little bit higher up here. Feed your wire through.Next, we'll go ahead and remove the rotor. Rotate this back. Now the rotor isn't really loose. You're going to have to break it off. The trick is to smack between the studs on the face of the rotors so you're not damaging it. And that usually does the trick. There we go, put it down facing up. Next step, we'll go ahead and remove this dust plate so we can feed our wire through. We can't really fit it through this gap the way it is. And that's going to be an 8-millimeter. It's gonna be three of them. And hopefully, you don't have that issue because I just broke one 8 on there, but we'll figure that out later.Next, we'll go ahead and remove the hub bolts. There are going to be four bolts, two in each side. They're going to be 18-millimeter. Go ahead and turn it this way. It gives you better access and leverage. Eighteen millimeter, got on my 1/2-inch ratchet. Break these loose. Come back with my electric ratchet to get this job a little quickly. Turn the other way and we'll get the other side. You may want a 1/2-inch with a pretty long bar. It does get not too tight, but... All right, we've got all the hub bolts out.All right, we'll get this straight back up. Grab yourself a hammer. Go ahead and start hitting behind the hub. There we go. Usually, Fords don't really have, or at least F-150s with the IWE don't really have an issue coming out because they have an O-ring on the hub that keeps all your salt and rust out of the center of the knuckle and the hub so it usually comes out pretty easy.All right, before reinstalling the new hub, what I like to do is kind of clean the face of the knuckle. You can use a sandpaper, Scotch-Brite, something along there. But you do want to be extra careful of not getting any debris inside the hub itself. It has gears in there, the IWE, that engages with the hub. All those parts need to be lubricated clean. What we can do is kind of use a rag. We'll kind of stuff that in there a little bit and just try to keep your inside of there clean. And then use my die grinder here with a, you can call it cookie brush. And then I'll go ahead and kind of clean all around there. I'll kind of point the direction of the tool to kind of point away the debris rather than pushing it in.All right, that's all it takes. And pull our rag back out here. And sometimes you'll get a little bit of edges. Just wipe them out. And we'll go to the bench and compare the old and new part.All right, we got the old here and the new obviously. We'll compare it and make sure everything looks the same. And make sure those... Go ahead and make sure our wiring is correct. Make sure the end of the connectors are correct, which does. After you know... But this ABS is kind of a little bit different. So you can tell the difference right out there. This is a one-connector clip-on, call it the Christmas tree. We've got one there, that's fine. But a couple of zip ties shouldn't be an issue.Before installing this hub, just have some all-purpose grease. All we'll do is kind of lubricate these gears up a little bit. I got to go too crazy, just a little bit. I'll do just fine. And then there's gonna be an O-ring right here. So I'll put a little bit on the side of the O-ring. Kinda keeps the O-ring lubricated while going in so it doesn't fold. That's all it takes. We'll get the new hub on the knuckle.All right, we'll get the new knuckle in. Now we have the speed sensor pointing straight up. Now this part is going to be pretty important. You don't want to just run this thing in and get kind of line up the gears of the hub into the IWE. So you're going to have to kind of shimmy it a little bit and get it in. Double-check and make sure your O-ring isn't going to fold in. So you're going to have to rotate the hub and you're going to have to get your hand behind the CV axle. Just kind of work it up and down. I'm going to have to rotate it a couple of times.Once your hub is in, you should feel the engagement of the hub to the axle. I believe that's the farthest it will go. And then I'll get a close shot of the axle nut where it should be. And then to know that your axle is pushed in all the way, you should be able to see a little tapered end kind of protruding out of that front bearing just a little bit. So that just ensures you that you got your axle and the hub fully contacted with the gears and everything.All right, now we can go ahead and start running the hub bolts in. We'll have to kind of rotate it back just a little bit like this to get the other bolt in. We'll get it snug in a criss-cross pattern. And we'll get it torqued down.All right, the hub bolts, it's an 18-millimeter again. We're torquing it to factory spec at 129 foot-pounds. Go ahead. Gonna be torquing this in a criss-cross pattern. Rotate it. Rotate it again so we can get this other side. And we'll get the last top one on this side. There we go.All right, we'll go ahead and reinstall our axle nut bolt. Now this is not a very big bolt and nut. It's going to be torqued at 30 foot-pounds. We'll go ahead and run it down. Then we'll grab a torque wrench here, get it set at 30 foot-pounds. This one is a 13-millimeter again. What you can do is... Works for the same pulling it off if you don't have power tools. Get a screwdriver between your studs here to keep it from rotating. There we go.Next, we'll get our dust shield on. We'll wrap this speed sensor wire above where it was. That is the 8-millimeter. Guys, remember I did end up breaking one, but I think two would be just fine.The next step, we'll get our rotor and our caliper back on. Actually, let's go ahead and get this dust cover back on real quick before I forget. Just line it back up and just lightly tap with the hammer. You don't want to hit it too hard or you end up just denting it. Get this caliper on. Snip our zip tie. All you do is feed the caliper back onto the rotor. Grab your caliper bolts. Line everything back up. Rotate it this way. This is your 21-millimeter. Get the inside one, thread it back all the way. There we go.All right. I'm going to torque these down to 184 foot-pounds. Need my deep socket for this one. All right, the caliper's torqued down. Turn it back this way. Get our brake line brackets back in. Get this 10-millimeter bolt back in. Next, we'll get the wheel speed sensor bolt back in. That one was an 8. We'll feed this back in here and then put that up there. Run this wire back up into the engine bay.Now the factory hubs clips into here. It looks like the wire is in a little bit different position. So looks like there is an available one a little bit higher. We'll go with that one there. And then this one here looks like there's a little bit of an extra, but no biggie, we'll just grab a zip tie and we'll just zip-tie it onto the brake hose here. Grab our side cuts and cut off the end.All right, the last thing we gotta do is reconnect our wheel speed sensor. Reach down and grab our sensor wire here and try to get in there. All right, I heard the click. We'll, again, push that red tab back in, and that completes our install.Justin: So if you are looking to replace some damaged stock wheel bearings, be sure to check out this affordable replacement today right here at americantrucks.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features

      • Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly Set
      • Direct Replacement
      • Restores Vehicle's Original Glory
      • Precisely Engineered
      • Meets or Exceeds the Strict Quality Standards
      • Two-Year or 24,000-Mile Warranty
      • Fits 2017-2020 4WD F-150s

      Description

      OEM Replacement. To restore the original glory of your vehicle, our Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly Set is the perfect solution. Precision engineered to meet or exceed the strictest quality standards, this direct replacement assembly set is an essential component for returning your car to peak condition.

      Warranty. This Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly Set is backed by a 2-year or 24,000-mile warranty against defects on materials and craftsmanship.

      Application. A Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly Set is engineered to precisely fit 2017-2020 4WD F-150s.

      Fitment:

      Details

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly Set
      4.8

      Customer Reviews (38)

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        Will It Fit My F-150

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