(approx) a Day
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Justin: If you're the owner of a 2009 to 2013 F-150 and you're looking to level out your truck using some quality components, well, then you should definitely check out Eibach's Pro-Truck Stage 1 System that we're talking about here. Now, when installed, this kit will help provide the truck with 2 to 3 inches of additional front end lift, thanks to the spring and shock design, and will even include brand new matching dampers for the rear. Price point all in is gonna be for right around the high $500 ballpark. And the installation is gonna get a soft three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter according to the site. They call it a full day to get knocked out just to be on the safe side, you might get it done quicker. But either way, if you hang out with me for a bit, we'll walk you through the job later in the video.So if you've been in the car or truck scene for basically any amount of time, then chances are you're more than familiar with the name Eibach as they are easily one of the most recognizable and trusted brands in the suspension game and have been that way for decades. And the kit that we're talking about here today is gonna feature a combination of Eibach's two core components: their dampers and, of course, their springs.Now, traditionally, when we're talking leveling kits, truck owners have a couple of different options to weigh. The more affordable and I'd even say the more popular way is to use a puck style spacer on top of your factory suspension to get you your desired lift or level. And while these are the most cost-effective way to achieve more front end height to fit maybe a bigger wheel and tire, that's pretty much all they do. They really don't offer any other benefits outside of that. And then you have something like this, which is essentially gonna completely overhaul the suspension on your truck, thanks to the new components.Up front, you get a brand new set of springs here from Eibach along with your shocks, and these guys are gonna give you a few different levels of front end height to customize just how high you want your truck to sit, from 2 to 3 inches, thanks to the adjustable collar and the adjustable snap ring that you can choose your leveling. Now, if you are gonna go crazy with your front end here, go closer to that 3-inch range, I would definitely consider picking up some aftermarket tubular control arms just to help prevent any interference or rubbing during full articulation.Now, as for the rear as well, the site's gonna say that these are gonna offer anywhere from 0 to 1 inches of additional height, but I wouldn't hold my breath because, frankly, a shock by itself is not going to alter your ride height. Traditionally, you need a block or something similar to help you do that. And as you can see, Eibach has not included anything of the sort. So, basically, even though this is technically called a lift system, in reality, it's gonna be more of a quality leveling system.As far as your components go, well, again, you are getting four shocks here, two fronts, two rears finished in a gray powder coat, and these have been specifically valved to work with the included springs also from Eibach. Now, together, the package is designed to focus on everyday comfort but still be able to offer an increased control in your off-road driving and performance. Now, overall, reviews from the kit have been that the ride quality is gonna be a bit on the firm side compared to your stock stuff, of course, but one that's still very pleasant while cruising. And it's certainly gonna help eliminate some body roll.Speaking of reviews, this kit has been favorably reviewed here on the site, and there's even a few picks on the product page of everything installed along with towing a trailer with the kit installed, which is awesome because, a lot of times, guys will say leveling your truck leads to a ton of squat when towing. And that can be true given your components. However, the customer images tell a different story with the Eibach system in place. So, again, definitely check those out if you haven't already done so. But now we wanna show you just what it takes to get the Eibach kit installed on your rig at home. And to do so, here is that detailed walkthrough we promised you earlier along with a quick tool breakdown.Man: Tools used for this install are an impact gun or ratchet, a pry bar, 30-millimeter or an adjustable wrench, 21-millimeter wrench, 18-millimeter wrench, 15-millimeter wrench, a flathead screwdriver, a hand-operated vacuum pump, 27-millimeter socket, 24-millimeter socket, 21-millimeter socket, 19-millimeter socket, 18-millimeter socket, 17-millimeter socket, 15-millimeter socket, 13-millimeter socket, 10-millimeter socket, 8-millimeter socket, 5-millimeter Allen, a torque wrench capable of 300 foot-pounds, and a dead blow hammer.So the first step of this install is going to be to get your truck lifted or supported on jack stands or an automotive lift. And then we're gonna pop the wheels off to gain access to all the suspension components that we're gonna have to remove to install our new strut assembly. So let's get started. So for this install, I'm actually going to be removing the entire knuckle assembly to gain access to the strut assembly. Now, this is not 100% necessary for removing the factory strut. However, when installing the new strut, it is going to be taller, and in order to prevent damaging the axle, I wanna have everything out of the way so I don't flex the axle too much and possibly risk damaging it by pulling it apart when I'm pulling down on the lower control arm. So I'm gonna get started with removing my caliper and rotor.So now I'm gonna use my 21-millimeter socket on my impact gun and remove my caliper bolts. Just so I don't cause any damage to the brake line itself, I'm going to remove the 10-millimeter bolt that retains the brake line to the knuckle assembly so that I can hold my caliper out of the way without damaging anything. So now that I have my caliper safely hanging out of the way, I can remove my rotor and unbolt my dust shield. I'm just gonna use an 8-millimeter socket on a small impact gun, remove the three bolts. Next, I'm gonna use a 5-millimeter Allen and an 8-millimeter socket to remove the two bolts here on the knuckle that hold the ABS wire in place.So now I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter socket on my impact gun to remove the nut for the outer tie rod end. I'm gonna leave that just a little bit loose. And then I'm gonna break this loose with a hammer. Next, I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter wrench to loosen up the upper ball joint. I'll leave the last few threads attached, and once again, break it loose with a hammer. And now I'm gonna take a 24-millimeter socket on my impact gun and loosen up the lower ball joint, and once again, break it loose with a hammer. Unless it comes loose on its own.All right. Now I'm gonna take a flathead screwdriver and remove the dust cap for the axle nut, and then I will unhook the vacuum line for the IWE actuator and unbolt this. So there is a vacuum line on the back of the four-wheel-drive actuator that runs to these two ports here on the IWE. I'm going to take my handheld vacuum pump, and I'm gonna attach it to the large port. And then I'm going to pump the vacuum, pump up to 24 inches of vacuum, and that's gonna disengage the splines from my four-wheel-drive axle. And then I can remove my axle nut and remove my knuckle assembly.With the four-wheel-drive disengaged, I can take a 13-millimeter socket and remove my axle nut, and then I can remove my hub assembly. When I'm doing this, I wanna make sure that the shaft of the axle does not damage the diaphragm on the back of the IWE. Next, I'm gonna take an 18-millimeter socket, and I'm gonna remove the bolt for the sway bar end link. This is gonna allow me to have the maximum articulation I'll need for the lower control arm to get the strut out. Now I'm gonna use a 27-millimeter socket and a 30-millimeter wrench to break loose the bolt for the lower strut. If you don't have a 30-millimeter wrench, you can always use an adjustable that opens up to that size.So the final step for the strut removal is going to be taking a 15-millimeter wrench or socket and removing the three nuts on the top of the strut and removing the strut assembly from the vehicle. Now I can push down on my lower control arm and remove my strut.So now we have our strut assembly mounted up in our spring compressor, and we're gonna disassemble the strut because we need to transfer over our lower spring perch and our upper strut mount. And we're gonna use a 17-millimeter socket to remove the top nut. I sprayed it with a little bit of rust penetrant just to help things go a little bit easier, and I'm gonna hit it with my impact gun.So, like I mentioned, we are gonna have to remove our lower spring perch from our factory strut assembly and transfer it over to our new one. So what I'm gonna do is, I have it mounted up here in the vise, I'm gonna give it a couple of taps with a hammer, spray it with some PB B'laster to get the rust penetrant going, and I'm also gonna have to remove the cap to get everything to come off. Now I can transfer this over to my new strut assembly. So the next thing I'm gonna do is transfer over my strut top over to my new coil spring, and then I'm gonna put everything back into the spring compressor and assemble my new strut.So before I install my new shock into my strut assembly, I need to determine my ride height. There are four ribs on the shock body, and the lowest rib is going to be your stock ride height. And then there are two other ribs before you reach the maximum ride height of 2 inches. We're gonna go for the full 2-inch lift. So I have my C-clip sitting here in the highest rib. And then I'm gonna put everything together by sliding on the collar that's provided in the kit, and then I'm gonna slide on my lower spring perch. Once I have that on, I can also transfer over my bump stop from my other shock assembly, and now I can put everything back together.So now I'm gonna slide my new shock into place and tighten it down with the provided hardware. Now I'm gonna take a 19-millimeter socket and I'm gonna tighten down the nut for the strut. So now we're ready to install our new strut assembly, and then we're going to basically reverse the removal process and put everything back together.So I have my strut assembly very loosely installed here. I kept the top nuts loose so that I have a little bit of wiggle room to get this large bottom bolt into the lower control arm. Now that I have that started, I can start tightening up my bolts. So now I'm gonna take my 15-millimeter wrench, and I'm gonna tighten down the three strut top bolts, and then I'm gonna move to the lower bolt.So now I'm gonna take my 27-millimeter socket and 30-millimeter wrench, and I'm going to snug up the lower strut bolt, but I'm not going to fully tighten it. I'm going to wait until I have the entire weight of the vehicle down on the suspension, and then I will tighten the bolt to 300 foot-pounds. Now I can reinstall my sway bar end link nut. I'm just gonna use my 18-millimeter socket and tighten it down. All right. So now I'm ready to throw my knuckle back into place. I have 24 inches of vacuum pulled on the back of the IWE actuator. And now I'm just gonna carefully lift everything into place and make sure I don't damage my diaphragm when reinstalling it with the axle. Now I'll just use a 13-millimeter socket. I'm gonna snug this nut down, and then I'll go back and tighten it to 35 foot-pounds.So next I have to reconnect my upper ball joint. I'm gonna pull down on the lower control arm. I'm gonna also use a little bit of a pry bar so that I can get enough thread sticking through the end so that I can start the nut. Now I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter wrench and tighten up my upper ball joint and then move to my outer tie rod and lower ball joint. And once again, with a 21-millimeter socket, I will tighten up the outer tie rod end, and with a 24-millimeter socket, I'll get the lower ball joint. So now I can tighten up my axle nut to 35 foot-pounds and reinstall my dust cap. I'm just gonna use a small pry bar to hold the hub from spinning. Now I'm ready to reinstall my ABS wire in the hub, and then I'll reinstall the 5-millimeter Allen bolt and the 8-millimeter bolt that retains the wire to the knuckle. Now I can reinstall my brake rotor dust shield and tighten down the three 8-millimeter bolts.Next, I can throw my rotor back on, and I'll hold that in place with a lug nut, and then I'll reinstall my caliper. Now I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter socket and tighten up my caliper bolts, and then I'll reinstall my vacuum line and my brake line retaining clip onto the knuckle. I'm gonna just use a 10-millimeter socket to tighten up this bolt. So now that I have the lower control arm supported by a floor jack and the weight of the suspension is down on the truck, I can take my torque wrench and torque the lower strut bolt to 300 foot-pounds.So with all your connections made and all of your bolts tightened down, you can repeat the same exact process on the other side of the truck, and once you've done that, you can move on to the rear shocks. So now I'm ready to remove my rear shock. I have the rear differential supported with a floor jack just to keep my spring in place while I unbolt the shock from the top and the bottom. I'm gonna use a 15-millimeter socket on my impact gun and an 18-millimeter wrench on the nut.So now I'm ready to install my new replacement shock for the rear. I'm gonna put the body side up and the bellow side down, and I'll just reinstall it the same way as factory. Let's go in this way. Now I'm gonna have to compress my shock a little bit to get it into the upper mount. And then I can tighten up the bolts with my 15-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter wrench.And that's gonna wrap up this review and install of the Eibach Pro-Truck Stage 1 Lift System fitting your 2009 to 2013 F-150. Thanks for watching. And for all things F-150, keep it right here at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
A Superior Travel Experience, On- or Off-Road. Enjoy a carefully devised system of shocks and lift springs for your Ford F150-type vehicles, in the form of the Eibach Pro-Truck Lift System - Stage 1. Featuring high-quality lifts with custom springs and adjustable grooves, the system allows your ride height to be fine-tuned based on your needs. The kit is also protected by a special coating that resists corrosion and abrasions.
High-Quality Shocks. The shocks that come with the Eibach Pro-Truck Lift System are heavy-duty, custom-application-specific valved shocks. With these, ride heights may range between 1-3 inches, with a block-resistant design for steady ride height that doesn’t sag.
Powerful Springs. Designed following the principles of race-winning off-road spring technology, the included springs in the Eibach Pro-Truck Lift System are as high-quality as they come. These springs were specially developed to strike an effective balance between ride quality and control, while keeping it well-equipped for off-road adventures.
No Cutting or Welding Required. The Eibach Pro-Truck Lift System is a direct bolt-on kit. This means that it requires no cutting or welding.
One Million Mile Warranty. The Eibach Pro-Truck Lift System was meticulously designed and engineered to last. Thus, it confidently comes with a warranty that covers a million miles.
Application. The Eibach Pro-Truck Lift System was designed for 2009-2013 Ford F150 4WD models (excluding the Raptor).
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(approx) a Day
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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