(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$1,162.09 (kit)FREE Shipping
Hey, guys. Adam here with americantrucks.com. Today we're taking a closer look at, listening to, and installing the Stainless Works Turbo S-Tube dual cat-back exhaust with the same side exit and factory connect, fitting all '07 to '18 5.3 Silverado 1500s. If you're the owner of that 5.3 Silverado, you might be looking to ditch your factory exhaust to pick up something extremely high quality for a premium price, from a premium brand, with a very aggressive sound. As you just heard from our sound clips, this one's coming in at three out of five on our loudness meter. It's not too overwhelming but it's got a deep, throaty, and very aggressive sound coming out of the dual extra style tips on your side exit. This one's for the guys out there looking to keep it pretty mellow as far as drone inside the cab. There's a little bit there but it's definitely not overwhelming. You can have a conversation with your passengers and you can listen to music very easily, especially when you're on the highway at those higher speeds. This one comes in with three-inch manual bent tubing for a completely unrestricted airflow. It's pretty much got twin everything. You got two mufflers, two exhaust tailpipes, two tips, all the way from your Y-pipe back to the exit.Now, this one's gonna come in right around the $1100 mark. So again, it is more premium but that 304 stainless steel is absolutely worth it for the guys looking for the top brand in the category. Now if you wanna get this installed, it is gonna get two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter for guys with anything other than the Crew Cab standard box. With that said, if you have a Crew Cab standard box, no cutting, no modifications required. But every other trim level or cab length might have to do a little bit of cutting to two of the tailpipes right over the axle. We had to do that for our own Crew Cab short box so I'll show you how to get that done in just a little bit. Simple hand tools required, like a ratchet or a cordless impact with a couple of different sockets as well as some PB B'laster or WD40. We're using a lift so we've got a pole jack for support but I'd recommend having jack stands if you're working on the ground. Now, without further ado, I wanna show you how this gets done so let's get to it. Tools needed for this install will be a mallet, PB B'laster or WD40, hanger removal tool, cordless impact or ratchet, extension, 13-millimeter socket, 15-millimeter socket, measuring tape, and a cutting tool of your choice.So we're kicking off our uninstall here with a 13-millimeter socket and our cordless impact. If you don't have one of these, a simple ratchet does the trick as well. As you can see, we're working on a lift which makes our life a lot easier. We've got a pole jack supporting the back end. If you're working on the ground, make sure you have a hydraulic jack and some jack stands to support it. Kick things off here with our socket, we're gonna tackle this band clamp here right behind our catalytic converter and that's gonna be the only bolt holding on our factory cat-back. The whole thing should come off in one piece. Once we disconnect this band clamp, we'll tackle the hangers so let's start up here and work our way back. All right, next up, we're gonna use our hanger removal tool to pop these hangers out of the factory isolators. You can pick up this tool at your local auto parts store if you don't have one. Definitely makes your life a whole lot easier. All right, now we're gonna tackle the hanger right near our tailpipe tip. This one is gonna actually cause the whole exhaust to drop down onto our rear axle so you just wanna be careful that you're supporting the weight here so it doesn't drop down on top of you.All right, so at this point, we're hanging on the crossbar here as well as the rear axle. We're just gonna feed the one end underneath and pull the whole thing out in one piece. All right, so we got our factory exhaust off of our Silverado and on the ground sitting next to our complete Turbo S-Tube system from Stainless Works. As you can see, we've got it all put together with the exception of that Y-pipe there alone on the ground and you can see clear differences. Everything from head to toe is completely different than the factory exhaust but it all fits pretty well. Now, as you can see, everywhere that you would have one pipe or one clamp, it's pretty much doubled on the Stainless Works system. You're going from a Y-pipe at the catalytic converter down to two pipes going into a double muffler, going into two tailpipes and, of course, your twin polished stainless steel tips. This system, head to toe, is also 304 stainless steel, three-inch manual bent tubing, great unrestricted airflow from top to bottom. It's really a premium system which is reflected, of course, in that $1100 price tag. But if you're looking for the top quality systems, Stainless Works provides here. There's a ton of really high-quality hardware, you're getting hanger clamps that also go into your isolators on the factory locations, and really, it's just a tight-knit fit from Stainless Works that looks really good once you have it on and sounds even better on the road. Now, those mufflers there, as you heard from our sound clips, give you that nice, deep, throaty, aggressive sound as opposed to that pretty wimpy sound off the stock muffler here. The quality also, between 304 and the factory system, is unparalleled. The 304 system is gonna last a lot longer in those wintry weather areas like we're in here that sees a lot of road salt so if that's like you, then the 304 is gonna definitely last a lot longer and hold up in those weather elements. I'm gonna show you guys how this gets installed from head to toe and I have to admit that it does get a little bit tedious at times just because there's tight fit corners due to the fact that there's two pipes coming out on each end and two mufflers. So it's a tight fit, there's a lot of hardware we have to tackle, and I'm gonna show you guys how to make that cut as well if you've got the Crew Cab short box like we do or any other trim level that doesn't have a Crew Cab standard box. Now, without further ado, again, guys, let's see how it gets done. Now, the first step of our install is, of course, to take our Y-pipe and connect it right behind our factory catalytic converter with the factory ball flange. Next step here is our muffler inlet pipe. Now, this is where, since we're using a Y-pipe, this is where you're gonna use your right side and left side inlet pipes. They're labeled with a red sticker for the right, blue sticker for the left so make sure you're using them appropriately. So we got a clamp on the end of this one, we're gonna attach it to our Y-pipe so let's get to it. Now it's time to install our left side muffler inlet pipe to our Y-pipe, I do wanna point out that you don't wanna tighten down these clamps too far just yet. You wanna leave a pretty good amount of room for adjustment simply because these pipes are bent a certain way, and you wanna make sure you're getting all the way back to tailpipes before you start making adjustments. You don't wanna tighten them down too much or you won't be able to. So we're just tightening them down just to keep them in place and we'll come back and adjust later. Because we're working with a Crew Cab short box, there is 9-1/2inches of pipe we have to cut off of our muffler inlets. If you're working with a Crew Cab standard box, there's no cutting at all required. It's a perfect fitment right out of the box. Every other model does have a little bit to cut off.I got my tape measure here and a marker, I'm gonna mark off 9-1/2 inches for our Crew Cab short box and we're gonna head over to the workbench and cut them off. We're gonna install the inlet pipe to the Y-pipe then we're gonna throw our muffler on the end of this and then the clamp with the hanger into the factory isolator. All right, we can tighten down this clamp just a bit. All right, now we're gonna throw our second muffler up here. All right, now it's time to attack our over-axle pipe. We can't actually put our hanger clamp over our muffler just yet because this flange is gonna go over top of that outlet. So this clamp is gonna go on the end of our over-axle, this is gonna slide onto the outlet side of our muffler, and then we can insert our hangar into our factory isolator above the muffler. All right, guys, now it's time to get our left side tailpipe in order and we have that left side tailpipe hanger that's gonna go right behind our muffler. And before we put our tips into place, we wanna make sure we're putting our additional hangers into place over our tailpipes. These are actually gonna sit midway through the pipe right next to our spare tire.This bracket here is gonna hook underneath of this clamp before we tighten it down, that way we can put our hanger into our isolator right next to our spare tire. This is gonna hold our exhaust tailpipes up into place, make sure they don't sag down and it's just an additional safety measure. So we're gonna put this into place and tighten everything down. Now, the last step in this entire process here is to put on our stainless steel tips. Obviously, it's a dual side exit so we've got two tips, two clamps. We're gonna slide the clamp over top of the tip, put it into place, and tighten it down. Then we're gonna go back through the entire system, make the adjustments we need as necessary just to make sure it's lined up properly and exiting where we want them to, and then we'll tighten down all of our clamps and hit the road. That's gonna wrap up my review and install of the Stainless Works Turbo S-Tube Dual cat-back exhaust with the factory connect and the same side exit for '07 to '18 5.3 Silverados. If you're looking to get a top-quality 304 stainless with a dual side exit, high-quality four-inch polish stainless steel tips, this is a good option and you can get it for yourself right here at americantrucks.com.
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May 08, 2018
Top quality material and labor (welds) look good however am disappointed in a swage just after the socket flange that necks the i.d. to 2-1/2 inch. This and the socket flange doesn’t mate well with the ball, neither to the stock y-pipe nor the Texas Speed and Performance catted y-pipe. A little hammer tuning snugged it right up. Also, while being superbly built the mufflers are NOT for the bashful! They gleefully “blat” and roar when you nail it. Idle is pleasant but course; while cruising at 1700 rpm the system is rockin’! Loud but still able to hold conversation but don’t forget to turn the stereo down when you get parked! Fit is EXCELLENT with the hangers placed accurately and the band clamps are quality pieces. I did have to take 10” off each of the intermediate tubes to fit the mufflers correctly (LTZ crew cab shorter bed) and all bends are good. This system weighs 75 lbs. but is easily handled. Also in the package were a nice can coozy and a wicked kool stainless bottle opener and groovy stickers of various design. GOOD STUFF!Helpful (14)
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(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
Designed for the Extended/Double Cab with the Standard Box or Crew Cab with the Short or Standard Box.