Installation Time
(approx) 2 Hours
Difficulty Level:
Simple installation for anyone.
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Justin: The Barricade XHD Bull Bar here is a modern twist on that classic bull bar design that also just so happens to incorporate the included 20-inch LED light bar. Now, the XHD will be available for all 2004 and newer F150s and will combine heavy-duty steel construction along with a textured black powder coat, along with that light bar we just mentioned all for right around that $400 price point. Installation according to the site is gonna stick with a healthy one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter and I call it a couple of hours to complete from start to finish. But as always, guys, hang with me for a bit, and we'll walk you through that job later in the video. So, right off the bat, I have to say that if you told me if this is what bull bars would look like in the future, I'd totally believe you. Now, there's something very modern about the design or appearance of this option. And it certainly is a pretty big departure from the standard bull bar designs that we've seen for decades.But outside of that modern appearance, I think this option will be very appealing to EcoBoost owners in particular, who really don't wanna risk blocking their factory intercooler with a more traditional bull bar or skidplate design. And that is something that you're definitely gonna see mentioned in the customer review section. As always guys, feel free to read up on those reviews and check out the customer-submitted images for a little bit more info on this product before buying. Now, as for the construction of the bar itself, you'll find a very durable cold-formed heavy-duty steel plate, which is then fully welded and finished in the textured black powder coat that you see here today to help reduce any rust or corrosion over the years. Now, outside of the basic shape of the XHD, some things I really enjoy about this design are these little vents found here down on the bottom that received some kind of mesh treatment. I just think it helps give the bar a little bit more detail. But maybe my favorite part of the XHD here from Barricade is the inclusion of your 20-inch LED light bar that instantly gives your truck the lighting firepower to illuminate any dark trails or back roads at night.Now, the light bar is a single row 20-inch unit equipped with 15 individual LEDs, and those LEDs are housed in a combination of both flood and spot style reflectors, which is really going to help illuminate that night. Now, the bar does have a waterproof rating, the light bar that is, of an IP67 and it does also include all of the necessary wiring and bracketry along with a switch to get everything wired up and functioning properly. Now, speaking of which, now we wanna show you just what it takes to get the XHD and light bar installed on your rig at home. So, without further ado, check out our detailed walkthrough and tool breakdown right now.Man: The tools used for this install are a ratchet, 16-millimeter wrench, 13-millimeter wrench, 16-millimeter, 13-millimeter, 11-millimeter, and 10-millimeter sockets, the provided Allen key, a clip removal tool, and an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. So, for this install, we are gonna be working on the front end of our vehicle. If your vehicle is equipped with tow hooks, they will need to be removed. You're only gonna need a few simple hand tools to finish this job and the wiring is all plug-and-play. I'll walk you through every step of the process, so let's get started. If your vehicle is equipped with tow hooks, they will need to be removed, you'll need a 15-millimeter socket to get those pulled off. However, our truck has already had the toe hooks removed so we don't need to worry about removing that hardware. The kit provides you with two separate sets of hardware, one for a closed-ended frame end, the other for an open-ended frame end. Ours has an open-ended frame, so I'm gonna show you how to fish these through, get them into the holes and get your brackets installed.So, now I can use the provided flag bolt hardware to install into my frame end and align it up into my tow hook holes. And once I have those through, then I can install my mounting brackets. And now we can repeat that on the other side of the frame. Next, I can install the provided hardware after I've installed my flag bolts and I'm gonna install my plastic washer here first, I'll slide that up into place. Do the same for the other stud. Once I have those plastic washers installed, I can install my brackets, these are labeled D and P for driver and passenger. I'll slide that into place. And then using the provided hardware I can install my washer, lock washer, and nut. Make sure the curve of the bracket is pointing inwards. Now that I have these two nuts and washers installed, I'm gonna leave them a little bit loose so that I can go ahead and install my other side and my bull bar. I'll leave everything loose so that I have the adjustment space that I need to make sure everything fits together properly and then I'll go back and tighten everything down at the end.Like I said, I'm gonna leave these brackets a little bit loose so that I can install my bull bar a little easier. This will give me all the adjustments we might need. So now that we have our brackets installed onto the truck frame, we can do a little bit of assembly on the table before we can throw our bull bar onto the truck. We need to install the grilles, the mounting brackets, and our light bar with the installed brackets as well. So, I'll walk you through all the steps for that and it's just gonna be really simple. I'll start by throwing my lower grilles on here, with the provided washers and 10-millimeter nuts. Once I have those nuts installed, I can use my 10-millimeter socket to tighten those down and do the same thing on the other side of the bull bar. Next, I can install the provided license plate bracket. And I'll just line that up with the holes here in the middle of the bull bar and install with the provided bolts and nuts. Once again with my 10-millimeter socket, I'll use the provided Allen key to hold the bolt and I can tighten down these nuts.And working my way up the bull bar I can now install my provided mounting brackets. I'm gonna line these up with the two lower mounting bolt holes here on the back of the bull bar. And I'm just gonna install this hardware finger-tight. It's a bolt, washer and lock washer. And the reason I'm gonna leave these finger-tight as I mentioned earlier is just so that I have all the alignment room I need when I go to install this onto the truck. And I'll just repeat that same thing on the other side of the bull bar. Once again, these brackets are labeled P and D for passenger and driver, just make sure you have the orientation correct. The last bit of assembly for this bull bar before I can throw it onto the truck is assembling the light bar with the brackets onto the back of the bull bar. So, I'll use the provided hardware that's labeled P and D once again and I will get these started on the back, get it positioned, and then I can tighten them down. Now that I have those installed, I can tighten them down with a 13-millimeter socket. Like I said you can use your 13-millimeter socket and ratchet as well as a wrench to tighten down the light bar hardware.Now that we have our bull bar fully assembled, we can go ahead and install it onto the truck. Now that I have everything fully assembled, I'm ready to put this onto my truck and mount my brackets up to the previously installed brackets on the truck. An extra set of hands will be really helpful for this if you have them, but if you're like me and don't have any friends, a little rolling stool will be just fine. You can get your hardware started. I'm just gonna use a bolt, washer, lock washer, and nut. I'll make sure to put a washer on either side, one on the bolt side, one on the nut side, and then my lock washer and nut on the nut side.Now that I have all of my mounting hardware started, I can start going back through and tightening up my frame brackets as well as the brackets on the back of the bull bar, and then I can position my bull bar right where I want it and then tighten up the bolts between the two brackets to make sure everything's positioned properly. Now I can use my 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench, I'm gonna tighten up the 2 nuts on the bottom of the frame rail for each bracket. And then I'll work my way up the bull bar. Now, I'll just do the same thing on the other side.Since I got my lower bracket bolts mounted to the frame and tightened down, now I can work my way up the bull bar. The 2 bolts on the back that I left loose earlier, I'm gonna use my 16-millimeter socket on a ratchet and tighten those down. And then I can position my bull bar the way I want it and tighten up the bolts between the two brackets. Now, I'll just tighten the same two bolts on the other side. Once again using my 16-millimeter socket and ratchet as well as the help of a 16-millimeter wrench, I can start tightening up the bolts between the 2 brackets of the lower bracket and the bull bar bracket and position my bull bar the way that I want it. Now, I'll just repeat the same thing on the other side. Moving on to the wiring portion of this installation. I'm now under the hood of the truck here at the battery terminals. And what I'm gonna do is remove the 11-millimeter nut on my positive terminal and my 13-millimeter nut on my negative terminal and connect the eyelets to each one of those terminals. It's black for negative, red for positive, and then I'll run my wire harness with the connection for the light bar going to the bull bar in the front and my switch running towards the cab.Like I said, for the negative, I'm just gonna use my 13-millimeter socket. And I just have my relay zip-tied to the wires over here. If you want to drill a hole and mount it permanently with a screw, that's fine, but a zip tie will hold this in place just fine and eliminate the need for any kind of drilling. Now I can route my wires. So, like I said I'm gonna run my switch up towards my cab, I'm gonna have to pass it over to the driver's side of the vehicle from the battery side which is on the passenger side. So, I'll lay that across the top of the engine for now, and then I'm going to route it up and out of the way to get it into my passenger compartment. As for the wire that runs to my light bar, I'm actually going to fish the connector down behind the headlight through the engine bay. And if you reach your hand into this opening here on the side of the headlight, you can grab that wire and fish it through. And then I can work it up to the front towards my bull bar and make my connection and then I'll just tie up the slack and tuck it around in the engine bay.Now I'm gonna use my clip removal tool and I'm just gonna remove these two clips here on the edge of the radiator cover. That's gonna allow me to lift it up just a little bit and run my wire underneath it. And then I'll run my wires down into this opening here in the front of the grille, and that'll come out right here in this opening of the grille where I can make my connection for my light bar. Now I can make my connection. And then I'll pull my slack back in towards the engine compartment to make sure that I can tie everything up neatly, and make sure that I'm not hitting anything that moves or gets hot. I'm just gonna take a zip tie here and tie up my slack. And then I can tuck all this slack into the empty spot where I fished my wire through next to my headlight. And then I can reinstall the clips on my rad cover. Now is the fun part of this install where we have to pass the wire harness with the switch into the passenger compartment from the engine compartment.Now, luckily the harness that's provided in this kit comes with a three-pin connector that you can just unplug, which means you only have to pass this small connector through the firewall. Now, here in the engine compartment next to the brake master cylinder, if you raise your hand far down into the abyss near the wheel well at the firewall, you'll feel a large rubber grommet. And what you'll do is basically move that rubber grommet out of the way and that will give you access to pass the wire through into the passenger's compartment. And then you can reach underneath your steering wheel and plug everything back in and put it back together. So now I have my wire fished through the firewall into the passenger's compartment, I can see that my switch is working because I plugged it back in and my switch is lit up. And if I hit my button, I get green and red. Now I can install it by sticking it onto my dashboard. I'm gonna install it right here next to my headlight switch.So, I'll just peel the backing off and stick this on. And once I have this installed onto my dashboard, I can go back and start tidying up all of my wires, keeping them away from anything that's hot or moving and make sure everything looks clean when I finish this all up. And that's gonna wrap up this review and install of the Barricade XHD Bull Bar with 20-inch LED Light Bar, fitting your 2004 to 2021 F150. Thanks for watching. And for all things F150 keep it right here at americantrucks.com.
Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Fitment:
Barricade T543306
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Installation Info
Installation Time
(approx) 2 Hours
Difficulty Level:
Simple installation for anyone.
What's in the Box
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