(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey, guys, Adam here with americantrucks.com, and today, we're taking a closer look at and installing the Barricade Pre-Runner Front Bumper with the Skid Plate available for the '18 and newer F-150. You should be checking this out if you're looking to pick up a super durable, very unique front end that's extremely built for off-road. This guy here from Barricade is the pre-runner option focusing on that Baja styling at the front end to give you the most ground clearance that you can get in the category along with underbelly protection, and honestly, a modular construction.Now, if you're not familiar with pre-runners, just keep in mind that pre-runners typically have better approach angles bringing it up off the ground a lot farther than some of the aftermarket ones out there that are off-road based. This one's also usually pretty modular in the sense that you can attach light bars to it for off-road lighting while also giving you a tubular steel design. And each one of those checkboxes is marked here from Barricade. One-piece welded tubular steel powder-coated in a black textured finish great for corrosion and rust resistance, and it also gives you that stealthy look at the front end that you definitely want for the front end of your truck.Now, this one, in particular, being modular has a couple of things that you can change up to make it your own. Right out of the box you're given a ton of brackets here to customize exactly how you'd want the aftermarket lighting to look. Now, there's no lighting included in the box, but I will say you can pick up cube lights and especially light bars to really nail in exactly how you want this to be. This overrider hoop on the front end is detachable. It also comes with block out plates if you don't wanna use it at all or light bracket plates if you wanna put a huge light bar across the front here underneath of that blue oval grille. Now, that's something I particularly really like. I think light bars on the top of this guy would look really good, but the overrider hoop you see here adds a little bit more protection. If you were to come down at a harder angle on some kind of obstacle, it's gonna protect that front end grille a little bit more. It also has this honeycomb plate insert that you can remove as well. Now, we've got the honeycomb plate here because we're not throwing a light bar on it for this video, but if you were to wanna put a light bar in there, there's a separate bracket that keeps this completely open that you can bolt a light bar to. In other cases, you can just completely omit that, delete the grille all together, and have it opened up for a little bit more airflow. Now, this is something that I recommend for guys out there doing some heavy off-roading who are really concerned about ground clearance. As you can see, the front end down here is a lot higher off the ground than your factory bumper, and we'll take a closer look at them side by side in a bit. Just know that your front bumper has that bottom valance that really hugs the ground pretty low. So if you were to come across any small to even medium-sized obstacle, it's definitely gonna cause a problem, not the case here. More specifically, you're getting better approach angles. The corners of this bumper come up higher as it gets closer to the fender, which means that your tire would contact an obstacle before the bumper did, making it a lot easier to get over things that are in your way on and off-road. Now, other than that, obvious protection capabilities here, your factory bumper would take a lot more dents and scratches, whereas this being a tubular steel construction, it's really thick, and it's really durable. So if you were to contact something even on-road or in a parking lot, this guy is gonna hold up for the long run.Now, as far as fitment, really, really impressive fitment here from Barricade. You can see we have it pretty much hugging that plastic trim underneath your grille and headlights. So there's no ugly body gaps there. You also get to retain your tow hooks underneath, which is great for guys who want some access to it. It is a tighter squeeze here than it was with your factory bumper, but if you absolutely needed to use them, they are still there, which is a really good option. Not many bumpers in the category allow you to retain them. You often have to delete it to bolt up bumper brackets.As far as pricing goes for the pre-runner option here, you're looking at about 1,600 bucks. So it is a little bit more pricey in the category, which is what you'd expect from something that's all one piece. The tubular steel adds a little bit, and the modular aspect to it definitely goes a long way. Quality of construction is top-notch here, and your future plans with this can be endless depending on how you wanna mod it to your own liking.Install, two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter simply because, number one, it is pretty heavy and big. Getting your factory bumper off has a lot of nuts and bolts that you wanna take care of. It's pretty straightforward, but having a helping hand on deck will go a long, long way. Tackling this by yourself will prove to be pretty difficult. As far as assembling the overrider hoop, the grille down there, and even the skid plate underneath, which protects your underbelly there, you're basically gonna do all that off the truck and then bolt it all up in one piece, which just adds a little weight to the install. The time will take you about two, maybe three hours from start to finish depending on how much help you have and the tools you have on deck. Simple hand tools will do the trick. What do you say we get started? Tools used in this install include an impact gun, ratchet, extension, 5.5, 10, 13, 15, 21, 5/32, and 3/16 hex sockets and deep sockets, 13-millimeter wrench, and a panel removal tool.All right. First things first, grab a plastic panel removal tool, go to your factory bumper, and you're gonna remove these two plastic trim pieces right above your tow hooks. Don't use anything metal because it can scratch your paint, and you need to go right up against that to pry this guy off. You wanna have a hand there to catch it though to make sure it doesn't come right off. All right. Once you pry in there, just peel off. You can see there's just plastic clips and metal clips holding this guy on. Do the same thing on the other side. Now, once you have that removed, you're exposing two 21-millimeter nuts on these threaded studs here on both sides. We're not gonna completely remove them. We're just gonna loosen them up so that we can get them off by hand. Grab your 21 deep socket, grab an extension, and an impact gun or a ratchet, and loosen them up. All right. So we got that backed all the way off. I'm just gonna keep it on a couple of threads. All right. Same thing on the other side.All right. So at this point, you're crawling under the front end of the truck, and you're gonna unplug the factory master harness for the fog lights. Now, that's directly above the frame here, and it may be attached to the frame itself, but you can just pull that plastic clip off like I have here. What you're gonna do is flip it over. You're gonna pinch and disconnect. That way the fog lights are free and won't tug on this harness attached to the vehicle. All right. Now you have to actually unplug the back of the fog light harness. Now, it's really difficult to get to from underneath the truck due to it being really close to the frame. So I'm actually gonna go into our wheel well here on our passenger side and then repeat on the other side. There's two 5.5-millimeter bolts, believe it or not. I have a 1/4-inch ratchet and a short 5.5 socket. Get these two out of the way. You can peel that trim back enough in the wheel well liner to get to the back of the fog light, which is right here.All right. And do the other one, and we'll peel it back. At this point, you're basically gonna peel this guy back. You can actually just bend it right behind the tire especially if you have one of these larger tires like we have here. And then right there, you'll see the fog light connector right where my fingertip is here. All right. So it's got this blue connector on it. And you're basically gonna peel back on the black, and I know that's tough to see here, right at my fingertip, and disconnect that, so it falls right off. Repeat on the other side.Next step, we have to remove the third 21-millimeter nut from underneath of the truck connecting it to the frame. It's basically right where the first two were but on the opposite side on the inside of the truck. So we're crawling underneath the front end. I got my 21 socket. Now, keep in mind, guys, as you remove these two last ones, one on each side, the bumper is gonna start coming down. That's why we left the first two nuts loose so that it can catch it and it's not gonna come down on top of us. All right. So grab your 21 deep socket and extension, and get these off.All right. So at this point, I'm gonna repeat that process on the other side. What you're seeing now is the front side view of that same bolt on the driver side. All right. At this point, you're basically gonna support the front bumper and remove the four 21-millimeter nuts that we left on just a couple of threads. Keep in mind, as you remove these guys, it's gonna start coming off. All right. All four off. Let's pull this guy out of position. And with everything disconnected, set it aside.All right. So we got our factory bumper off the front end of our '18 F-150 behind me, and it's on at this rack here underneath of our new Barricade Pre-Runner Bumper. So I wanna go through some similarities and differences between the two, and I gotta say top to bottom, start to finish, it is completely different. This is one of the more unique bumpers in the category, which is typically what you get from a pre-runner. Pre-runners are a lot lighter, a lot more low profile, better fit for off-road, and they often have a lot more of an aggressive appearance than some of the more bulky or full-width bumpers that you see out there in the category. Now, your factory bumper is made from relatively durable materials. It can dent pretty easily. It's not really great for ground clearance. As you can see down here, it is a lot taller than the new Barricade Pre-Runner simply because it does also have that lower lip there. Now, that chin spoiler really adds like a good 4 inches toward the ground, so a lot less ground clearance there, not really good for getting over obstacles. The new pre-runner option comes up significantly higher off the ground, giving you a lot better approach angle to some of those obstacles you'd be hitting off-road. Now, your approach angle, of course, is the amount of ground clearance you have going up to your front tires toward the obstacle there. And this has raised corners here. So even down at the front end here, it's a little bit lower, but as you get to the corners toward your fenders, it raises up for better approach angle.This bumper being a lot more durable is made from a one-piece fully welded tubular steel construction, which one piece is gonna make it a lot stronger. You're not bolting separate things together, which can weaken its structural integrity, and the powder-coated finish on top, this black textured finish is gonna help with scratch resistance and, of course, corrosion and rust resistance. So one thing you don't have to worry about is this rusting out over time being exposed to the elements, thanks to that coating there.Now, it also has some opportunities to be customized. The top-end here has three mounting points, which you can later mount some additional cube lights or light bars. The same goes for the inside. Both sides of the center section has a bracket on the back end, which you can customize to fit a big Raxiom light bar, for example, whether it be curved or flat. You can also put a couple of cube lights inside. So there's some lighting options there, but if you're not looking to pick up lights, you don't have to leave it blank with the included honeycomb grille.Overall, really sturdy bumper. The only downside here is you are gonna have to remove your factory tow hooks, which we'll get to in just a little bit because there is that included skid plate, which will go right over top of that section. You're also not gonna be able to transfer over your factory fog lights. There's obviously not room here to fit that, but with the added light opportunities, I don't see that being a problem. All right. At this point, let's toss this guy aside and start getting on the install.Next up, we're gonna install our overrider bar on the top of our bumper on the ground here. It's gonna install just like this facing outward. If you don't wanna use this bar, there are optional block off plates as well, which you can put on there or some light brackets. You wanna grab the M8x30 Allen bolts. Gonna put those guys through. Follow that up with a flat washer on the bottom, and, of course, you wanna have the split washer and flat washer on the top as well, and then follow that up with a nut. I'm just gonna tighten this guy all the way down by hand at first just to hold this guy in place. All right. Now we can do the other side just so it holds itself up. All right. Do the same thing for the other two bolts on each side, and then we'll tighten them down. Might be easier for you to tip it forward like this just to get underneath. All right. Same thing on the other side. All right. So now I'm gonna grab my 3/16 hex socket, you can also use the Allen key included in the kit, along with a 13-millimeter wrench to hold the nut and tighten these down.All right. Next up, we're gonna install brackets on the ground here that will help attach our new skid plate. So that's gonna come here. You're gonna look for these two brackets that have the two holes offset upward and the bracket off to the side that's a little bit more swiveled. There's another bracket in here that's a right angle. This one's just a little bit different. It's got a bit of a curve to it. It's gonna curve in just like that. They're also marked with a D and a P, so driver and passenger side. All right. So when you install this, you're gonna put the bolt through the top going down with a flat washer underneath followed up with a nut. All right. Tighten them up by hand. If you can't really get an impact gun in here, a ratchet could work, but they also just include this Allen key, which I think is just a little bit easier for you. Grab your 13 socket, hold the nut, and tighten up the bolt head. All right. Same thing on the other side. All right. Next up, we're gonna install the side brackets. Now, these are gonna poke out just like that, again, marked D and P for driver and passenger. Now, actually, when you install these guys, you wanna make sure the bracket is on the inside of the bumper and the bolt head is on the outside going in. Repeat on the other side.All right. So next up, we're gonna install the first portion of our skid plate. Now, the skid plate is gonna attach those four brackets we just installed to the bumper itself using the same kind of bolts. So the first thing I'm gonna do here is take my nut off the bolt. You're gonna put the bolt head on the outside, so underneath of this, so that it's a little bit more attractive on the actual vehicle. So we're gonna start here on the end, bring that through, might be a little tough to see, and then you're gonna put the nut on the back. All right. Same thing on the other side. All right. Once you have all four of those bolts and nuts on, you can tighten them down.All right. Next step's a little bit difficult because you have to balance this larger skid plate to the bracket we just installed. So what you're gonna do is take the same kind of bolts. Make sure the bolt heads are on the bottom. All right. I'm gonna use my foot here to balance it. We're basically just gonna put the nut on the back side. Once you have them in place, it's a little bit easier, but repeat this on the other side. All right. And then there's one more in the middle. All right. Once you have it up straight, you can tighten them down.All right. Now we gotta remove our factory skid plate just underneath of the power steering. Now, there's two 15-millimeter bolts here. We're just gonna take those off and get rid of this factory plate. This is where the new skid plate is gonna bolt up. All right. Just wanna make sure you have a hand here. There's a little metal clip holding it on. There you go. I'm gonna set this aside. Use that factory hardware again to bolt up your new skid plate.All right. Next step, we're gonna actually insert our honeycomb grille into the middle. Now, this is optional. If you're doing a light bar, there's light bar brackets. There's also a grille here that does not have the honeycomb. So you have a couple of options to choose from. I'm gonna go with this honeycomb one here. Now, once you insert that into the center, you're gonna take two bolts and insert them onto the sides to bolt it down. And then from the middle, we have six smaller hex bolts that we'll use to tighten it down there. All right. On the other side too.All right. Now, before we tighten the sides down, let's install the six bolts in the middle to make sure everything lines up. All right. So next, for these, I'm just gonna insert the bolt head on the outside and the nut and washer on the inside. Do that all six times. All right. Now you can tighten all these bolts down. All right. So now we can tighten down the ones on the sides.All right. At this point, we're ready to put the bumper onto the truck. Now, the factory studs where we took those initial two 21-millimeter nuts off are gonna go right here into this bracket. There's two slotted holes. We'll slide that directly on, make sure the skid plate's clearing the crossmember underneath, and we'll bolt it back up using those two factory nuts on each side. All right. So right here I'm gonna have my buddy help me out by putting those nuts on, I'm gonna line this up.All right. Once you have those four nuts in place, you wanna make sure somebody's there to hold the bumper into proper position. Grab your 21-millimeter socket and ratchet, and you're gonna tighten them down. All right. Repeat that for all four. At this point, grab your 15-millimeter factory bolts and your 15 socket. You're gonna go under the truck and bolt up your skid plate. All right. Do that on both sides.That's gonna wrap up my review and install for the Barricade Pre-Runner Front Bumper with the Skid Plate available for the '18 and newer F-150. Pick this up right here at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Enhances the Truck’s Off-Road Appeal. With the Barricade Pre-Runner Front Bumper With Skid Plate, your Ford F-150 will be ready to take on the toughest off-road terrains. This front bumper and skid plate combo is built to beef up your vehicle’s fortification, as well as give it a distinct rugged appearance. Plus, it’s designed for ease of installation, so you can hit the trails once the bumper is secured to your vehicle.
Built to Withstand the Elements. No matter how exposed to the elements the front bumper is, it won’t be easily damaged. This is because the entire bumper is crafted from a durable material, making it the perfect upgrade for extreme off-roading applications.
Includes a High-Quality Skid Plate. A high-quality and sturdy skid plate is included with every purchase of this kit. Thanks to this, you can ensure that your truck’s underside is protected against sharp rocks, fallen logs, and other road hazards.
Installation Is Easy. This kit comes complete with all the necessary hardware, so you won’t have a difficult time mounting the front bumper onto your vehicle. However, since a skid plate is included, the entire task will take 3 hours to complete.
Application. The Barricade Pre-Runner Front Bumper With Skid Plate fits all 2018-2020 Ford F-150s, excluding Raptor models.
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Fitment: 2018 2019 2020 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
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