(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
Hey guys. Joe from American Trucks. And today we're gonna be working with the Red Rock 4X4 tubular off-road rear bumper with LED work lights, fitting all '07 to '18 Silverado and Sierra 1500s. Now this is gonna be perfect for any Silverado or Sierra owner out there looking to get a full-width off-road rear bumper that brings with it styling, durability, and utility. This bumper is made out of a heavy duty steel plate and tube. It features an awesome black powder coating which is not just there for looks. Albeit, if you were going for the blackout look this would match perfectly. It's also there to serve as a layer protection from the elements. Now, the way this is designed is you would get a little bit more taper at each end here. That's going to help you with departure angle. If you're coming down off an obstacle, it's less likely to catch on this tubular rear bumper than it would be on the stock bumper. If this does end up taking a hit for your truck though, that heavy duty steel plate and tube is definitely going to stand up to it. Now one of the biggest benefits about this rear bumper are the two included three inch LED cube work lights. They feature 5 watt Cree LEDs. They come in at a color temperature of around 6,000K, which is going to be a bright white, very, very slightly toward the blue side. They're also IP67 waterproof which means they can take up to a meter of water for half an hour, more than they should ever see on the rear bumper of your Silverado or Sierra. Now we're going to get the stock bumper side by side with the Red Rock and point out some comparisons here in just a second. But one of the things I was personally impressed with during the install for this is just how much of that factory functionality you get to keep.We have a new relocation bracket for the trailer harness. This truck isn't optioned with that so we just left it off. But it would sit right about here. All the hardware you need for that bracket is included. We also have some predrilled holes for the parking sensors. You could transfer those over and keep that functionality as well. If you don't have those options like our Silverado does here, you can fill those with some rubber plugs. They do come included in the kit as well. We also have the steps on either side to make it easy to get in and out of the bed. They're graded so your foot doesn't slip off of them, a nice touch from Red Rock. And we also have an included light for our license plate to make this street legal. Pricing for this bumper is going to come in right around that $650 mark. Usually all the bumpers for Silverado hover between $500, $1,700, $1,800 on the top end. So $650, this is definitely going to be more toward the budget friendly side. And you do get a lot for your money there with the included work lights and all of those factory features retained. It's definitely well worth the money.Install for this is going to be a little bit more difficult than expected. '14 plus owners will need to loosen up the bed and actually lift it up to be able to slide the factory front bumper out. This is a '16. So I'm gonna show you how to do that in just a second. The work lights are plug and play. There's a harness included as well as a switch and a relay. But the little light next to the license plate is not. So, we're gonna have to do just a tiny bit of wiring as well. With that being said, I'm gonna give it a harder two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. It'll take you two, three hours to get this hooked up. So without any further ado let me show you what tools you'll need to get this done and how to do it.Tools required for this install are going to be an impact 3/8. Couple of U-joints. A basic socket set ranging from 22 millimeters all the way down to 10. 1/2 inch drive extension. 7/8 inch wrench. 19, 18, 17 and 10 millimeter wrench. We also use the 18 millimeter ratcheting wrench and the 13 millimeter ratcheting wrench. These two Allen keys do come included in the kit. Some needle-nose pliers. Vampire clip. Butt connector. Razor blade. Knife. Flathead screwdriver. And a wire stripper.So for the first step, we're going to crawl underneath of our truck and take out the bulbs in the license plate lights. And to remove that all you have to do is twist that counterclockwise, it will pop right out. We'll do the same thing for the other side. We're also going to disconnect the trailer connection here. To do that, pull up on this white clip then you can push down on the tab that's in the white clip and that should pop right off. We're also going to disconnect this main harness back here. And in order to open that up, you need to pop this clip right here which is pretty tough. And then just like the white trailer hitch clip, you can press down on the tab in the middle and release it.Next up we're gonna remove the two 18 millimeter nuts on the outer side right behind the step in the rear bumper. And obviously we're gonna do the same thing for the other side. And with those nuts out of the way you can pull out the bulb plate. Now, right above those 18 millimeter nuts you'll see this 15 millimeter bolt. We're gonna remove that as well on both sides. Now after that, on each side we'll have a 21 millimeter bolt right here. We're gonna remove those as well. Now you'll see in just a second here that the bed is going to get in the way when we try to pull this bumper off. And the way you're actually supposed to do this is to loosen up the four 18 millimeter bolts that hold the bed onto the frame. That gives you enough clearance to pull the bumper off. So we're gonna loosen these up right now. And they don't need to come all the way out, just loosen. There's gonna be two on each frame rail. So we come back a little bit. You should see another 18. Loosen that up as well. And we can do the same thing for the other side.Now we're gonna have to take a 10 millimeter socket and get our license plate off. That's going to reveal two 13 millimeter bolts that hold our bumper to the tow bar. We're gonna loosen those up with a ratcheting 13 millimeter wrench. And if you don't have a 10 millimeter socket, flathead screwdriver will work for these as well. And we'll do the same thing for the other side. Next we're gonna pull up on the truck bed and pull our bumper out. When we pull up on the bed it's gonna give our brackets enough room to pass through. Now this bed is pretty heavy so I recommend you guys grab a friend for this. So with our factory bumper off the truck, I just wanted to take a second to put the two next to each other and point out some of the key improvements that our new Red Rock bumper is going to be making. But first, let's start with some similarities.There's a lot of functionality that you get to keep with the new Red Rock bumper that I really like. First off, you get to keep this step right here that's an easy way to get in and out of the bed. It's a nice feature to have on your truck. And you do get to keep that with the Red Rock bumper. Secondly, if you have rear parking sensors, there are spots predrilled in the Red Rock bumper. We could transfer them over and still keep that functionality as well. Now, one thing you probably didn't notice about the Red Rock bumper is there's no predrilled hole to the right of the license plate for our trailer harness to go through. We are going to keep that functionality as well. It just gets relocated to a bracket. And frankly, I think it cleans up to look a little bit by not having that predrilled hole. And lastly, you can see there's two holes to the left of the license plate. That's going to be for our plate light and the spare tire access hole.So now, onto a few differences here. And the biggest improvement that the Red Rock is going to be making is going to come in the styling department. Right. It's obvious with these two next to each other. We're ditching that factory chrome and plastic look in exchange for some heavy duty steel plate and tube, finished in that awesome black powder coating. Which if you're going for the blackout look, this would be a perfect match, and really tie together the rear of your truck. We also get some new functionality with our Red Rock as well. As you can see those two precut poles for the included LED work lights. They're gonna make a huge difference in light output at the rear of our truck. On top of that, we also have some more departure angle as this tapers up on the sides. So as you're coming down off of an obstacle, it's not going to catch as easily on that new Red Rock as it would on the factory bumper.So without any further ado let's grab our new Red Rock bumper. We're going to put it on the table and do a little bit of prep work before we get it on the truck. So to start with, we're going to plug our parking sensor holes. Our truck isn't optioned with rear sensors. But if yours was, it'd be the same idea. You put them in place here. Instead we're gonna use these rubber stoppers that come in the kit. And we're going to secure them with the button head bolts and the included Allen key. Next up we're gonna do our LED lights. We need to install these brackets on them first. These have a little notch cut out of them. You wanna make sure that that's facing toward the front of the light. Once you have that oriented correctly, you can squeeze the arms together, and slide that in between the fins.Now we have the bracket installed. You wanna face it toward the back of the light. We're gonna take these small nuts here and slide them down our mounting bracket. And they're gonna sit and lock in between the fins. Once we have that in position we can take this Allen head screw right here and put that in between the fins to secure it. Then we can use the Allen key that comes with each light to tighten down that bolt. And do the same thing for the other side. Then we can take the larger bolt that comes with each light. We're going to feed this up in between the fins and the bracket itself, like so. And you can see there's a cutaway on either side. That holds the bolt head still so you don't have to get a wrench in there. Once we have that in position we can drop it in our bumper and secure with a lock washer and a 13 millimeter nut. And I'm gonna tighten that nut down with 13 millimeter ratcheting wrench. Now we're gonna do the same exact thing for the other light on the other side. And again, we're just going to slide that nut down the fins. Get the bolt started through the fins on both sides. Get our brackets swung up and secure it to the bumper with a 13 millimeter nut. Next we're just going to slide up our new license plate light into this smaller lower hole right here. That just clicks into place. We're going to have to wire that up later. And then we could also come up to these two holes here, and get our clips in place for the license plate mount. Next up we're going to secure our mounting brackets to the truck. These are going to install with the largest 22 millimeter hardware included in the kit. Now, up top on that bracket, that gets the 17 millimeter bolt and nut to secure it. Now we're gonna do the same thing for the other side. Again, the larger nuts and bolts here are 22 millimeters, and the one all the way up top is a 17. So now we're gonna lift our bumper up put it on the tow bar here and rest it on there. Then we're gonna crawl underneath and secure it to the brackets using the 18 millimeter bolts and 19 millimeter nyloc nuts. And we're gonna do the same thing for the other side.So now our bumper is completely built on the truck, we're gonna start with our wiring. Now, we have these two contacts right here. That's gonna go under our positive and negative terminal. Obviously red and black. We also have this relay here. I'm gonna put it underneath of this diagonal support brace. Now we're gonna feed the switch all the way across the firewall, then go in through a grommet in the driver's footwell and mount up our switch. We're gonna drop down the plug and play connectors right in front of our airbox here, and then go all the way down the truck with those and plug them in. And that is pretty much it. This part is pretty simple. But, we are going to start with the relay. And we're gonna loosen up this 10 millimeter bolt right here. Take that out. Slide that mounting tab underneath and resecure it. So we're gonna start with the positive. And to do that we're just gonna remove the nut. Then slide red wire underneath. Same thing for our negative terminal. Now we have the switch right in my hand here. This is going to turn the lights on and off. We need to get this into the cab of our truck. Now there's a grommet over on the driver's side that we're gonna feed this into, but it is a pretty tight squeeze. So we're gonna disconnect the switch part here. And then once we have this into the cab we're gonna reconnect it too and mount up our switch with the adhesive on the back.So that brings us to our plug and play connectors for the LED lights in our bumper. Now, long story short, we need to get these all the way to the rear of our truck, but without getting them in the way of any hot or moving parts. And that goes for all the wiring. Now the engine bay is pretty tricky. But one of the spots that I like is right in front of the airbox. We're gonna fish these down there, and then basically run these all the way down the frame rail area until they come out at the rear bumper on the passenger side. Then we're gonna split the two and go across to the driver side. And we're gonna wire manage these once we have them connected. The kit does include some extra zip ties for you. So right here is that big rubber grommet. I'm just gonna push that through a little bit. And I have a little bit of space in there. Now I'm just gonna feed in our quick disconnect for the switch. We don't have a lot of slack once we get into the footwell, but it is just enough to make this quick disconnect. So I'm just gonna put the two together. All right. So now we're into the cab of our truck with our switch wired up and good to go. It's really up to you wherever you want to mount this. There's one thing left for us to do, and that is to resecure that grommet that we pulled out in order to get this passed through. Now once you have the connectors at the back of the truck you can plug them in. As you can see our light works. All we have to do is plug in the other one and then wire manage all the cabling.So now we're going to wire up our license plate light. Now we're gonna take this harness right here. This is where the power comes from for the license plate lights. Originally, we want these to come on with the running lights. And this is what they are wired up to do. So we're gonna go right here. First step, we have to cut back this harness cover here. Just using the knife you wanna make sure...Obviously, be careful not to damage the wires inside. I'm just gonna work that backwards here. And that will expose the wires in that harness. Obviously. They have some electrical tape around them already. Gonna back that up a bit as well. So we finally have that backed up enough here. And, at least on our '16 Silverado here, you wanna look for these two green wires. I found the inner one is definitely one that's gonna work. So that is where we're gonna go. So, now we have our wires exposed, we're just gonna come in here and grab that green wire. Get the alligator clamp. Then grab a pair of needle-nose pliers and crimp that shut. Looking pretty good right there. I like using these alligator clips. It allows you to quick disconnect with the spade on the other end. So I just have an extension wire here with a spade on it. I'm just gonna push that in place. You should have a good connection. Then we can go to the back of our license plate light, and get that together with a butt connector. Just gonna tighten the box back down to the frame.And that is gonna do it for my review and install of the Red Rock 4X4 tubular off-road rear bumper with LED work lights fitting all '07 to '18 Silverado and Sierra 1500s. Thank you for watching. I'm Joe. Make sure you subscribe for more videos like this. And I'll thank Chevy and GMC.
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RedRock 4x4 S106891
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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