(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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So, if you own an '07 to '18 Silverado and you're watching this video, then you probably understand quite well by now that your truck is rugged and it deserves a bad-ass rear bumper, right? These armor rear bumpers provide more protection, especially if you go off-road or if you're at the worksite and they just look good. But out of all the bumpers available, why should you be looking at the RedRock Tubular 4x4 Off-Road Rear Bumper? Well, for starters, one of the most affordable options currently available, and what I like about it particularly is the fact that it actually kind of retains the factory styling, form, and function of the factory bumper. A lot of the other options on the page are more expensive. They're bigger, they're bulkier. And there are even some options that cost as much as a RedRock option, but there's still a lot beefier than this one.This one's a little bit more understated, a little bit more minimalist. It definitely follows the contours and the body lines of the truck a little bit better than some of the other options in my humble opinion. So, overall, I think it looks the nicest. But as far as functionality goes, it definitely is up to par with all the other options currently available. It's made out of a thick tubular design with plate welded steel on here. That steel's about an eighth of an inch thick. You get really heavy-duty half-inch thick mounting brackets, which makes it a bolt-on install by the way. And on top of that, you have a nice stainless steel construction with a black powder-coat finish on top. That black powder-coat finish is a cured and baked-on finish. It's not just a painted finish, so if you ever do get some light strikes or dings on this thing, chances are that finish will hold up just fine. And even if you do manage to hit this thing hard enough to take the finish off, you don't get to worry about that rust or corrosion underneath, because again, it is stainless steel.Now, back to that install, it is a bolt-on job. There's no cutting, permanent modification required. You can get this done with hand tools at home. So, for that reason, we give the install a modest two out of three wrenches on my difficulty meter. Pretty straightforward job. It is a little heavy though. So I recommend having a friend with you, or at least having some pole jacks or floor jacks handy. It shouldn't take you more than two hours to get this thing bolted on. Now, back to that functionality real quick, this thing's got a lot going for it. Optionally, you can install some light cubes here with these little mesh cutouts removed. Those light cubes are plug-and-play by the way. They're specifically designed for the wiring harness for the Silverado, so there's no splicing required. But if you do not want to go with those light cubes, well, again, you got these nice little mesh cutouts here.Now, other cool things to point out here. The entire top of the bumper is technically a step and they included these nice perforations on there. You also got some nice corner steps right here with perforations on the side. I'll get into that a little bit later when we pull the factory bumper off and I'll show you guys a nice comparison. And that way, you can also see how this thing kind of closely matches the shape and style of the factory bumper. So, again, if you want one of the most affordable rear armor bumpers for your Silverado, you should be checking out the RedRock 4x4. And if you decide to go with this one, you can come back in just a moment, I'll show you guys what tools you need to get the job done. And then I'll walk you through the install step by step.All right, guys, before we get started, you want to head over to our toolbox, grab 2 standard drive ratchets, and you'll also need a 10, 15, 17, 18, 19, and 21-millimeter socket. I would go with deep sockets just to be safe, you'll also need a 10, 17, 18, 19, and 22-millimeter wrench. And for wiring up your new license plate light, you'll need snips and you'll also need a crimping tool. You'll also need a quick splice connector or a butt connector. Now, optional but helpful tools include an impact gun and air ratchet and some swivel sockets.All right, guys. So, to remove the factory bumper, it's pretty straightforward. It's just a couple of nuts and bolts. So, we need the 15, 18, and 21-millimeter socket. But before we actually loosen the bumper, we have to tackle a couple of electrical connections. Specifically, we have to unplug our trailer harness and we also have to take out both of our license plate lights. You don't need any tools for those, it's just a couple of plastic retainers. So go ahead and give them a squeeze with the fingers, rotate them, and pop them free.All right. So, we were actually able to pop the license plate out because we can't show you guys underneath the bumper, but in order to disconnect this real easy, just go ahead and twist and the light bulb will come right out. All right. Now that we have all those electrical connections taken care of, we can disconnect the bumper. We're going to start with this bottom bolt here on the bottom frame. Really you'll need your 21-millimeter socket for this guy. All right. Next, we're gonna unbolt the bumper from the side of the frame rail here. It's secured with one 15-millimeter bolt and two 18-millimeter nuts. Now, keep in mind, once you remove this hardware, the bumper will be disconnected from the vehicle. It is a little heavy, so you want to make sure that you don't have a friend holding it or jack stands. All right. Once you've removed those two nuts, you can remove the double bolt plate from the other side of the frame. All right. Once you remove that double bolt plate, you can remove that 15-millimeter bolt. If you're using power tools, I'd recommend using a short socket because it is a squeeze.All right. We got all those nuts and bolts removed and we're ready to remove our bumper. But before we do that, you want to take your time, right? Because there actually still is a wiring harness that has some Christmas tree fittings, some little plastic retaining clips, holding it to the top of the bumper. So, pull it out a little bit just enough to expose that, and then with the plastic trim tool or with flat-head screwdriver or just with your fingers if you really want to, go ahead and gently pry those free. Once the wiring harness is free, then you can pull the bumper out of the frame rails entirely.All right. So, we got our factory bumper removed. That way, you guys can see a real comparison between both. And like I said earlier, as you can see, it does generally follow the form of the factory bumper, which I like, right? A lot of those armor bumpers are big and bulky, and they're a little bit more expensive because you're just paying for more material and more fabrication. I like this one again, because it's minimalist.Now with that said, the new bumper is actually more functional than the factory one. The factory one does have a step across the top and in the center there, but this one's actually got perforations on it, which is nice if you've got work boots on, snowing outside, you got mud on, whatever, it keeps traction for you. You got that step in the middle still. But on the corners here, you got really nice small perforations as well. That just helps getting things out of the side of the bed. Now, as far as the bolt-on application goes, all we got to do is throw these brackets in place. So, let's go ahead and grab the hardware and I'll show you what tools you need and we'll get those brackets installed. Then I'll show you how to mount the new bumper on our frame rail.All right. So, to get the brackets installed, we're actually reusing some of our factory hardware. We're going to start off with that double bolt plate and those two 18-millimeter nuts that we removed earlier. You're going to slide the bracket in place, line all the holes up, then throw that little bolt plate in there. Tighten that stuff down and I'll show you what hardware we're going to be pulling from the kit.Now, when you tighten down this bolt plate here, this little plate might actually bend a little bit and it's going to form itself around the bracket. That's okay. That's expected. And again, to tighten these two nuts down, you need an 18-millimeter deep socket. And when you go to tighten this down, make sure you line up that back hole there so you can get that M10 bolt in there later. All right. In this rearmost hole, we're going to be using our M10 bolt, that's a 17-millimeter hex head bolt, you'll need 2 flat washers, and you'll need the appropriate nylon nut. Now, I would put the bolt facing outward. That way, you can put your wrench on the inside of the frame rail and you can get your socket on the outside.All right. For our bracket on the bottom here, we're going to install this M14 bolt in the kit. These are the widest and shortest bolts provided in the kit. You will need a 21-millimeter deep socket and a 22-millimeter wrench to tighten these down. Make sure you have two of the appropriate-sized flat washers on either side before doing so. All right. With that bracket down, it's the same process for the other side.All right. So, we're finally ready to throw our bumper in place. In order to secure the bumper to the bracket, you will need those M12 bolts with two flat washers and the appropriate nylon locking nuts. Now, this thing is heavy. So I got my buddy here, Scott, helping me out. What you want to do is have someone, a friend or jack stands if you're in a pinch, hold the bumper up in place, line up the brackets on those holes, thread those bolts and nuts in there, and then I'll show you guys how to tighten those down.All right. Now that our bumper has been secured with that one bolt and nut, we put the truck back up in the air. That way you guys can see what we're doing underneath here. Pretty straightforward stuff. You're just threading this bolt with the flat washers and the nylock nuts through the bumper bracket and the bracket that secures it to the frame. Now, to tighten this stuff down, you will need a 19-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench. All right. With our bumper secure, we can install the bracket for our trailer hitch plug. Now, there are two plugs in the kit. You want the one that is shaped like so because the other one is actually for a Ford style trailer plug. At any rate, you'll need the M6 bolts provided in the kit. These are hex head bolts with 10-millimeter heads, and you'll need a 10-millimeter socket and wrench to tighten all this stuff down.All right. Now, we can install the actual trailer hitch plug. We want to press up on this little thin right here to unlock it and rotate it, and it'll fall right out of the bumper. All right. Now, the plug fits inside the bracket upside down. So, you want to put it in right side up until it pushes all the way through, rotate it, you'll feel some tension on it. Then you want to make sure that it's vertical upside down. And once you get it seated vertically, it'll stay locked in place. All right. Now, the last step here is getting this license plate light in place. Pretty straightforward stuff. The plate itself on the light actually acts as the ground to the bumper. So, all you need is to get power to it. Now, to do that, we're going to splice directly into the factory wiring harness from the factory license plate lights.All right. So, once you've got the wiring completed for that license plate light, that'll wrap up the install. And that also wraps up my review of the RedRock 4x4 Tubular Off-Road Rear Bumper, fitting your '07 to '18 Silverado. I'm Travis. Thanks for watching. Keep it right here at americantrucks.com.We have a new relocation bracket for the trailer harness. This truck isn't optioned with that so we just left it off. But it would sit right about here. All the hardware you need for that bracket is included. We also have some predrilled holes for the parking sensors. You could transfer those over and keep that functionality as well. If you don't have those options like our Silverado does here, you can fill those with some rubber plugs. They do come included in the kit as well. We also have the steps on either side to make it easy to get in and out of the bed. They're graded so your foot doesn't slip off of them, a nice touch from Red Rock. And we also have an included light for our license plate to make this street legal. Pricing for this bumper is going to come in right around that $650 mark. Usually all the bumpers for Silverado hover between $500, $1,700, $1,800 on the top end. So $650, this is definitely going to be more toward the budget friendly side. And you do get a lot for your money there with the included work lights and all of those factory features retained. It's definitely well worth the money.Install for this is going to be a little bit more difficult than expected. '14 plus owners will need to loosen up the bed and actually lift it up to be able to slide the factory front bumper out. This is a '16. So I'm gonna show you how to do that in just a second. The work lights are plug and play. There's a harness included as well as a switch and a relay. But the little light next to the license plate is not. So, we're gonna have to do just a tiny bit of wiring as well. With that being said, I'm gonna give it a harder two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. It'll take you two, three hours to get this hooked up. So without any further ado let me show you what tools you'll need to get this done and how to do it.Tools required for this install are going to be an impact 3/8. Couple of U-joints. A basic socket set ranging from 22 millimeters all the way down to 10. 1/2 inch drive extension. 7/8 inch wrench. 19, 18, 17 and 10 millimeter wrench. We also use the 18 millimeter ratcheting wrench and the 13 millimeter ratcheting wrench. These two Allen keys do come included in the kit. Some needle-nose pliers. Vampire clip. Butt connector. Razor blade. Knife. Flathead screwdriver. And a wire stripper.So for the first step, we're going to crawl underneath of our truck and take out the bulbs in the license plate lights. And to remove that all you have to do is twist that counterclockwise, it will pop right out. We'll do the same thing for the other side. We're also going to disconnect the trailer connection here. To do that, pull up on this white clip then you can push down on the tab that's in the white clip and that should pop right off. We're also going to disconnect this main harness back here. And in order to open that up, you need to pop this clip right here which is pretty tough. And then just like the white trailer hitch clip, you can press down on the tab in the middle and release it.Next up we're gonna remove the two 18 millimeter nuts on the outer side right behind the step in the rear bumper. And obviously we're gonna do the same thing for the other side. And with those nuts out of the way you can pull out the bulb plate. Now, right above those 18 millimeter nuts you'll see this 15 millimeter bolt. We're gonna remove that as well on both sides. Now after that, on each side we'll have a 21 millimeter bolt right here. We're gonna remove those as well. Now you'll see in just a second here that the bed is going to get in the way when we try to pull this bumper off. And the way you're actually supposed to do this is to loosen up the four 18 millimeter bolts that hold the bed onto the frame. That gives you enough clearance to pull the bumper off. So we're gonna loosen these up right now. And they don't need to come all the way out, just loosen. There's gonna be two on each frame rail. So we come back a little bit. You should see another 18. Loosen that up as well. And we can do the same thing for the other side.Now we're gonna have to take a 10 millimeter socket and get our license plate off. That's going to reveal two 13 millimeter bolts that hold our bumper to the tow bar. We're gonna loosen those up with a ratcheting 13 millimeter wrench. And if you don't have a 10 millimeter socket, flathead screwdriver will work for these as well. And we'll do the same thing for the other side. Next we're gonna pull up on the truck bed and pull our bumper out. When we pull up on the bed it's gonna give our brackets enough room to pass through. Now this bed is pretty heavy so I recommend you guys grab a friend for this. So with our factory bumper off the truck, I just wanted to take a second to put the two next to each other and point out some of the key improvements that our new Red Rock bumper is going to be making. But first, let's start with some similarities.There's a lot of functionality that you get to keep with the new Red Rock bumper that I really like. First off, you get to keep this step right here that's an easy way to get in and out of the bed. It's a nice feature to have on your truck. And you do get to keep that with the Red Rock bumper. Secondly, if you have rear parking sensors, there are spots predrilled in the Red Rock bumper. We could transfer them over and still keep that functionality as well. Now, one thing you probably didn't notice about the Red Rock bumper is there's no predrilled hole to the right of the license plate for our trailer harness to go through. We are going to keep that functionality as well. It just gets relocated to a bracket. And frankly, I think it cleans up to look a little bit by not having that predrilled hole. And lastly, you can see there's two holes to the left of the license plate. That's going to be for our plate light and the spare tire access hole.So now, onto a few differences here. And the biggest improvement that the Red Rock is going to be making is going to come in the styling department. Right. It's obvious with these two next to each other. We're ditching that factory chrome and plastic look in exchange for some heavy duty steel plate and tube, finished in that awesome black powder coating. Which if you're going for the blackout look, this would be a perfect match, and really tie together the rear of your truck. We also get some new functionality with our Red Rock as well. As you can see those two precut poles for the included LED work lights. They're gonna make a huge difference in light output at the rear of our truck. On top of that, we also have some more departure angle as this tapers up on the sides. So as you're coming down off of an obstacle, it's not going to catch as easily on that new Red Rock as it would on the factory bumper.So without any further ado let's grab our new Red Rock bumper. We're going to put it on the table and do a little bit of prep work before we get it on the truck. So to start with, we're going to plug our parking sensor holes. Our truck isn't optioned with rear sensors. But if yours was, it'd be the same idea. You put them in place here. Instead we're gonna use these rubber stoppers that come in the kit. And we're going to secure them with the button head bolts and the included Allen key. Next up we're gonna do our LED lights. We need to install these brackets on them first. These have a little notch cut out of them. You wanna make sure that that's facing toward the front of the light. Once you have that oriented correctly, you can squeeze the arms together, and slide that in between the fins.Now we have the bracket installed. You wanna face it toward the back of the light. We're gonna take these small nuts here and slide them down our mounting bracket. And they're gonna sit and lock in between the fins. Once we have that in position we can take this Allen head screw right here and put that in between the fins to secure it. Then we can use the Allen key that comes with each light to tighten down that bolt. And do the same thing for the other side. Then we can take the larger bolt that comes with each light. We're going to feed this up in between the fins and the bracket itself, like so. And you can see there's a cutaway on either side. That holds the bolt head still so you don't have to get a wrench in there. Once we have that in position we can drop it in our bumper and secure with a lock washer and a 13 millimeter nut. And I'm gonna tighten that nut down with 13 millimeter ratcheting wrench. Now we're gonna do the same exact thing for the other light on the other side. And again, we're just going to slide that nut down the fins. Get the bolt started through the fins on both sides. Get our brackets swung up and secure it to the bumper with a 13 millimeter nut. Next we're just going to slide up our new license plate light into this smaller lower hole right here. That just clicks into place. We're going to have to wire that up later. And then we could also come up to these two holes here, and get our clips in place for the license plate mount. Next up we're going to secure our mounting brackets to the truck. These are going to install with the largest 22 millimeter hardware included in the kit. Now, up top on that bracket, that gets the 17 millimeter bolt and nut to secure it. Now we're gonna do the same thing for the other side. Again, the larger nuts and bolts here are 22 millimeters, and the one all the way up top is a 17. So now we're gonna lift our bumper up put it on the tow bar here and rest it on there. Then we're gonna crawl underneath and secure it to the brackets using the 18 millimeter bolts and 19 millimeter nyloc nuts. And we're gonna do the same thing for the other side.So now our bumper is completely built on the truck, we're gonna start with our wiring. Now, we have these two contacts right here. That's gonna go under our positive and negative terminal. Obviously red and black. We also have this relay here. I'm gonna put it underneath of this diagonal support brace. Now we're gonna feed the switch all the way across the firewall, then go in through a grommet in the driver's footwell and mount up our switch. We're gonna drop down the plug and play connectors right in front of our airbox here, and then go all the way down the truck with those and plug them in. And that is pretty much it. This part is pretty simple. But, we are going to start with the relay. And we're gonna loosen up this 10 millimeter bolt right here. Take that out. Slide that mounting tab underneath and resecure it. So we're gonna start with the positive. And to do that we're just gonna remove the nut. Then slide red wire underneath. Same thing for our negative terminal. Now we have the switch right in my hand here. This is going to turn the lights on and off. We need to get this into the cab of our truck. Now there's a grommet over on the driver's side that we're gonna feed this into, but it is a pretty tight squeeze. So we're gonna disconnect the switch part here. And then once we have this into the cab we're gonna reconnect it too and mount up our switch with the adhesive on the back.So that brings us to our plug and play connectors for the LED lights in our bumper. Now, long story short, we need to get these all the way to the rear of our truck, but without getting them in the way of any hot or moving parts. And that goes for all the wiring. Now the engine bay is pretty tricky. But one of the spots that I like is right in front of the airbox. We're gonna fish these down there, and then basically run these all the way down the frame rail area until they come out at the rear bumper on the passenger side. Then we're gonna split the two and go across to the driver side. And we're gonna wire manage these once we have them connected. The kit does include some extra zip ties for you. So right here is that big rubber grommet. I'm just gonna push that through a little bit. And I have a little bit of space in there. Now I'm just gonna feed in our quick disconnect for the switch. We don't have a lot of slack once we get into the footwell, but it is just enough to make this quick disconnect. So I'm just gonna put the two together. All right. So now we're into the cab of our truck with our switch wired up and good to go. It's really up to you wherever you want to mount this. There's one thing left for us to do, and that is to resecure that grommet that we pulled out in order to get this passed through. Now once you have the connectors at the back of the truck you can plug them in. As you can see our light works. All we have to do is plug in the other one and then wire manage all the cabling.So now we're going to wire up our license plate light. Now we're gonna take this harness right here. This is where the power comes from for the license plate lights. Originally, we want these to come on with the running lights. And this is what they are wired up to do. So we're gonna go right here. First step, we have to cut back this harness cover here. Just using the knife you wanna make sure...Obviously, be careful not to damage the wires inside. I'm just gonna work that backwards here. And that will expose the wires in that harness. Obviously. They have some electrical tape around them already. Gonna back that up a bit as well. So we finally have that backed up enough here. And, at least on our '16 Silverado here, you wanna look for these two green wires. I found the inner one is definitely one that's gonna work. So that is where we're gonna go. So, now we have our wires exposed, we're just gonna come in here and grab that green wire. Get the alligator clamp. Then grab a pair of needle-nose pliers and crimp that shut. Looking pretty good right there. I like using these alligator clips. It allows you to quick disconnect with the spade on the other end. So I just have an extension wire here with a spade on it. I'm just gonna push that in place. You should have a good connection. Then we can go to the back of our license plate light, and get that together with a butt connector. Just gonna tighten the box back down to the frame.And that is gonna do it for my review and install of the Red Rock 4X4 tubular off-road rear bumper with LED work lights fitting all '07 to '18 Silverado and Sierra 1500s. Thank you for watching. I'm Joe. Make sure you subscribe for more videos like this. And I'll thank Chevy and GMC.
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(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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