(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$739.99+ $49.00 Handling Fee with FREE Shipping
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Axial Projector Headlights with LED DRL; Black Housing; Clear Lens (15-17 F-150 w/ Factory Halogen Headlights)
Raxiom G3 Projector Headlights with LED Accent; Black Housing; Clear Lens (15-17 F-150 w/ Factory Halogen Headlights)
RedRock 4x4 Tubular Off-Road Rear Bumper (15-20 F-150, Excluding Raptor)
Hey what's up guys, I'm Ryan from americantrucks.com. And today I'm here with the Redrock 4x4 Tubular Off-Road Front Bumper fitting your 2015 to 2017 F-150 excluding the Raptor. This is for the F-150 owner that is looking for an aggressive tubular front bumper for that trophy truck look and improved ground clearance. This is a great upgrade over the stock front bumper as it is much stronger and much more appealing. This bumper will add a ton of strength and protection to the front end and the improved ground clearance is going to add versatility to your rig allowing you to conquer those tough trails. The black powder coating is gonna add an aggressive styling and the LED light bar is going to make a huge difference in low-light visibility even on the darkest trails. Now this comes as a complete kit and is a very easy install since there's no drilling or cutting required. This is gonna be one of your most affordable options of its kind on the site and it even has a five-star rating from customer reviews. At around $650 for an off-roading front bumper, especially when compared to other options that can cost up to three times as much, I think this is a great deal for what you're getting. As far as install goes I am gonna give this a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter since you can install this in about two hours using basic hand tools. Now with that being said, let's hop into the install. We're gonna begin this installation by removing our factory bumper. I'm gonna start on the back side so we can disconnect our fog lights and remove the nuts. So we're gonna begin by disconnecting our fog lights, we're gonna go ahead and pull back on these black tabs. And this is gonna allow us to unplug our lights. After you unplug the lights, you're gonna want to free it up from the bumper by pulling this harness and getting these little clips off. You're gonna do the same thing for the other side pulling back on these black locking tabs and disconnecting our fog light. Once again you're gonna wanna free the harness up from the bumper and remove any spots and attached by some pushpins. So on the back side of each frame rail on the outside you're gonna have one stud sticking through with a 21-millimeter nut. We're gonna go ahead and take that off. And then you're gonna do the same thing for the other side. So next we're gonna need to remove this front panel, you can do that by using a trim panel removal tool and this just sticks in with a bunch of metal clips. So we're gonna pop that out. So once you have that panel off we can access the four nuts underneath, we're gonna use that same 21-millimeter socket to remove all those and then we can pull the bumper off. And right before you get that last one off, you're gonna want to put a hand on the bumper or get someone to help you out because this bumper is gonna come off. After that, you can pull your bumper off. So next we're gonna install our light bar, you have two 90-degree brackets that we're gonna bolt to this rail using the provided hardware. We're gonna start with both ends and then we'll slide this light bar in from the front and get that bolted in. So we're gonna place these brackets in here, they're gonna face outward. We're gonna use a bolt with a flat washer on there, you wanna get it through the bracket and then through these rails. On the other side we're gonna do a flat washer, a lock washer and the provided nut. So we're gonna do the same thing for the other side, placing a bolt with a washer down through the bracket and then into that welded rail. Then you're gonna get a flat washer, lock washer and a nut. So we're gonna tilt this bumper up since we need to fit the light bar in through the front of the bumper and once we get it in place, we can lower it back down and get it attached to our brackets. So to bolt the brackets to the light bar, we're gonna use a bolt with a lock washer and a flat washer. It's gonna go through the bracket into the end of our light bar. So we're gonna do the same thing for the other side using a bolt with a lock washer and a flat washer on there. You're gonna do the same thing for the other side. So last thing before we get our bumper installed since we're reusing the factory hardware, you're gonna need to remove the bolts out of the frame and the bumper. Now you're gonna have a double bolt up top on the frame and you're gonna have a single bolt in the back of the bumper. These are really easy to remove and they're just held in by these plastic washers. You can push them right out and then we're gonna swap them in to the new bumper. Now RedRock provides you with plenty of these new plastic washers to install these and these are just gonna install from the back side, we're gonna put these on so the're captured on in place so I get this bumper on. So I start with this top section it's gonna go in the double spot and then we're just gonna push these down over top and that's gonna hold that in place. And do the same thing for the other side. So with our stock bumper completely uninstalled and our new RedRock bumper fully assembled, we're just about ready to install it on our F-150. However I wanna take a second to go over some of the features and benefits of an aftermarket bumper such as this compared to our stock. Now this stock is made of steel however it's not very thick steel and it's not very durable. Not only that but it is bulky in design. If you're looking for something that is a little stronger and it's gonna provide more clearance you're gonna wanna go with an aftermarket bumper such as this. This bumper is going to add full protection to the front end and not only that it's gonna provide more ground clearance and it's tapered on the ends which is gonna give you better approach angles for when you're trying to drive your wheel up on the obstacles on the trail. Now this is made of heavy duty steel plating and mandrel bent tubing, so it's gonna add a ton of strength to the front end and it's gonna be much stronger than the stock. It has a black powder coating on it which is going to add to the corrosion resistance and also it's gonna give you an aggressive look. Now we are getting rid of our factory fog lights however we're adding a 30-inch light bar. This light bar uses five watt Cree LEDs which produce an intense 6000k light which is pretty close to white. The whole housing is made of sturdy aluminum and has a polycarbonate lens, so it's gonna handle any of that trail debris and the whole thing is sealed up watertight with an IP rating of 67. So at this point in time we're ready to install our front bumper. Since we are reusing that factory hardware, you're gonna wanna lay that out and be ready to install that. I'm gonna get a friend to help me lift this bumper off and then we'll get it installed. So once you have the bumper on you're gonna reinstall your factory hardware. You're gonna have three studs per side. And we're gonna go ahead and do the same thing for the other side. So once you have all of your hardware installed you're gonna go around and tighten everything up with a 21-millimeter socket. Now since there is a ton of adjustability side to side and up and down, you want to adjust the bumper as best as possible and if you have to readjust it you can always do so. We're gonna push our bumper up in the air a little bit to get it to fit closer to the body. So we still have to wire up our light bar, so we're gonna go ahead and pop our hood and get the harness set by the battery and then we'll feed our harness down. So we do have to wire this to the battery and we have to mount our relay in a good location, however, the first thing we're gonna do is run this extension down to our light bar. Now we wanna route this in an area where there's not gonna be any sharp hot objects, any moving parts. I'm actually going to run it down around here and then in between the headlight and the grille. All right, so we're gonna run this light bar harness up and over the frame rail, just to keep it out of the way and then we're going to take this and plug it in. After we plug it in you're going to want to pull the excess back up through and then zip tie all this new stuff, so it doesn't get caught on anything. So we pulled our excess up and we've zip tied that, we're probably gonna keep it right down in this little area. Now you are limited where you can mount the relay due to the length of these wires. So I actually found a nice eight millimeter bolt raid here that is for a ground strap. So we're gonna remove that and mount our relay. You're gonna pull that bolt out and then install the relay on there and then just reinstall that bolt. Now that we have the relay mounted, we're gonna connect these two terminals. Now the black lead is gonna go to the negative side of your battery and of course the red lead is gonna go to the positive side. We're going to use an 11-millimeter socket on our positive terminal and remove this nut, we won't stall our positive lead. Now you don't wanna remove this nut, this is actually the one that tightens the terminal down to the battery. We wanna leave that one alone to have an auxiliary stud here that you can mount additional wiring and such too, so we're gonna use that. Once we get that on, we're gonna switch back from an 11 to a 10-millimeter and we're gonna do our negative side. Same thing we're not gonna touch this one, that adjusts the terminal onto the battery we're gonna use with auxiliary stud. And then we'll tighten I that back up and then we can run our switch into our cab. So you ran our switch across the engine bay and we're ready to run it through the firewall. Now there is a wiring harness that goes down through the firewall and through a big rubber grommet. You can actually push that out or cut a hole and run the switch right inside. So we're gonna do that and then we'll mount our switch to the dash. So once you get the switch inside we're gonna go ahead and pull some excess out and then we can run it up the side of our dash. And you can mount this wherever you would like. I'm just gonna tuck it into the dash right here. Then we can run it across here and then just tape our switch right there. So to mount your switch you're just gonna peel this backing off and then you stick that on there. So once you get all of your wiring done, you're gonna want to zip tie all that excess. However that wraps up my review and install, for more videos like this check us out at americantrucks.com.
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RedRock 4x4 T533558
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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