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Airaid PowerAid Throttle Body Spacer (09-18 5.7L RAM 1500)
PowerStop Z36 Extreme Truck and Tow 5-Lug Brake Rotor and Pad Kit; Front (06-18 RAM 1500, Excluding SRT-10 & Mega Cab)
PowerStop Z36 Extreme Truck and Tow 5-Lug Brake Rotor and Pad Kit; Rear (02-18 RAM 1500, Excluding SRT-10 & Mega Cab)
Jake: Jake here for AmericanTrucks. And today, I am taking a look at this Rough Country 3-Inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit, with the Lifted N3 Struts and N3 Premium Shocks, for 2012 to 2018 Four-Wheel Drive RAM 1500s without Air Ride. If you're looking for a comprehensive and budget-friendly way to get an extra height for off-roading, or to run some bigger tires on your 2012 to 2018 RAM 1500 4x4, you're gonna wanna check out this lift kit from Rough Country. Now, this is a bolt-on, all-inclusive lift kit that is gonna get you 3 inches of extra height, and level out the stance of your truck, while maintaining stock ride quality, and allowing you to keep the overall suspension geometry very close to stock. Now, this, again, is a 3-inch lift, so it's gonna provide you enough clearance to run some larger tires for your truck as well.Rough Country says that you can fit up to 33s without any clearance issue, and they do fit quite well, as you can see on our truck here. Now, you might be able to fit a larger tire, however, I would recommend sticking with 33s, just to ensure that you don't run into any problems, especially if you're daily driving your truck. Now, they do include some really cool stuff in this kit, but let's start with these upper control arms. So, these are built as heavy-duty upper control arms. And as you can see, they include Clevite rubber bushings on both sides, already pressed in, plus a new ball joint. So they're gonna provide excellent absorption of road impacts. And the arms themselves are forged aluminum, much like your stock control arms. So they're pretty lightweight, but they have a lot of structural integrity, enough to hold up to whatever abuse you can throw at them.Now, you might have also noticed that the ball joints are angled to accommodate for the lift. So, despite adding quite a bit of height up front, these are gonna keep things pretty close to your factory suspension geometry, which, again, is gonna help maintain that factory ride quality, and provide for a full range of motion, so you can take advantage of that added ride height. But the headliner for this kit are these N3 premium struts for the front end. So, these are gonna combine with the control arms to give you 3 inches of lift up front. And as you can see, they come preassembled, so there's no need to mess with spring compressors or anything like that. You can just bolt these right in. Now, the shocks are nitrogen charged, and they feature infinitely variable damping, so it's gonna give you a smooth, almost stock ride quality.However, they are also designed specifically for lifted applications. So the damping is tuned to keep the ride smooth out on the road, while doing a good job of absorbing impacts and controlling rebound out on the trail. Now, the bodies of the shocks have this massive 1 3/8-inch bore, and this hardened chrome piston rod, so they're gonna stand up to the elements quite well too. Now, the whole nitrogen charge thing helps with heat dissipation as well, so even under really aggressive off-roading conditions where you're hitting a lot of bumps in quick succession, the shocks aren't gonna suffer from fade. So that means you can use them to their full extent without worrying about fading or losing control of your truck. Now, in the rear, we have these heavy-duty coil spring spacers that are gonna lift up the springs and help maintain the stock geometry.The spacers are made from this heavy-duty composite material, and they are black, so they're gonna be inconspicuous. And because they're not metal, they'll be protected from the elements. Now, the spacers themselves measure only about an inch and a quarter, but again, this is gonna add up to about an overall 2-inch lift in the rear. And that's partially due to Rough Country's premium N3 shocks, which are also included in the kit. So just like the fronts, these are nitrogen-charged shocks with 10-stage variable damping, and they have those big shock bodies again, so they're gonna keep things very well-controlled out back too. Between these and the front struts, you're gonna get that height that you want without sacrificing control or ride quality.So, with that 3-inch lift in the front and about a 2-inch lift in the rear, this also effectively functions as a leveling kit, to eliminate the rake that RAMs come with from the factory. So instead of sitting a bit lower in the front and a bit higher in the rear, once you've got this all installed, it's gonna sit pretty much even front to back.Now, I wanna touch on price for a moment here, because that is also a big feature of this kit. Coming in around $1,100, I think this represents pretty good value for your money. You get high-quality pieces like these control arms with the new bushings and ball joints, and, of course, those front struts and the rear shocks. Overall, this is a really good kit for your money, and it's gonna undercut some of the other lifts out there on the market without skimping on features, quality, or the all-important height. It's all-encompassing, so you can buy this, bolt it in, and you don't have to think about purchasing any other parts.Now, as far as install goes, this one's gonna get a three out of three on our difficulty meter, and you should budget about six hours or so to get it installed. You can certainly do this at home in your driveway, especially since everything you need to get it done is included in the box, even new hardware, but it is a bit of an involved job. So if you aren't necessarily comfortable disassembling suspension components, professional installation is always an option.However, again, this is something you can do yourself at home, and there are no modifications needed to your truck. Just bolt all of this on, and you're ready to hit the road. Though, do make sure you get your truck aligned once you've got everything buttoned up and given it a day or two to settle. And now, let's head over to the install bay, where we'll show you how to get this installed on your RAM.Man 1: Tools used for this installation, 3/8 electric impact gun, 1/2-inch impact gun, 21, 18, and 15-millimeter ratcheting wrenches, 13-millimeter ratcheting wrench, 15/16 wrench, 21-millimeter wrench, 18-millimeter wrench, 1/2-inch ratchet, 21-millimeter modified wrench for the back nut on the shock, 15/16 deep socket, 21, 18, 16, and 8 deep sockets, 5/16 Allen head socket, 18-millimeter shallow socket, flat-head screwdriver, large pry bar, small pry bar, and a hammer. Hey, guys, I'm gonna show you how to uninstall and install our 3-inch Rough Country lift kit, front and rear, on our Dodge RAM here. But first, we're gonna go to a short video to show how to remove our front strut, and then we'll get right back with the uninstall of me showing you how to uninstall our upper control arm.Man 2: All right. To kick things off, I'm gonna show you guys how to uninstall your factory strut here on our front driver side. Now, of course, you wanna get your wheel out of the way. That's step number one. We're supported on a lift, but if you're working on the floor, make sure you have a floor jack properly supporting the weight of the vehicle. Moving on from there, we'll have to disconnect the ABS lines from the knuckle and from the brake line itself, just to make sure that when the knuckle drops down out of the upper control arm, we're not putting too much stress on those brake lines. All right. So, for this ABS line, just follow it down to the back of your knuckle here. That's connected with a plastic clip. Just gonna wiggle that back and forth till it pops up.Now you wanna follow that guy up to the top here. That's connected to your brake line. That, you're just gonna pull apart, just like that. Now we have more slack on our brake lines, so we're not putting tension on them. Next up, grab a 16-millimeter deep socket, and we're gonna remove the factory nut off of our sway bar end link.All right. Set that aside. All right. Next up, we're gonna disconnect our tie rod end. Now, before we get started, you wanna know that this is a 21-millimeter nut. Now, in some cases, if you use an impact gun on this, the entire stud will spin in that ball joint. You may need a 10-millimeter socket and a 21-millimeter wrench to get the nut off while holding that stud steady. For our first time, I'm gonna use our 21-millimeter deep socket in my air gun to get this guy off.All right. So, ours didn't give us any trouble, but that it is still worth noting. Now, before I take this guy out, I'm actually gonna leave it in, and just put that nut a couple of threads on, just to keep the entire hub assembly from rotating while tackling the upper control arm. All right. So, next, we're gonna do the upper control arm to the knuckle. Now, RAM uses a castle nut here, which has these open gaps all the way around. And through one of the gaps, going through the stud itself, is a metal retaining pin. We're gonna use needle nose pliers to pull that pin straight out. All right. Set that aside.Now, for this, I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. I highly recommend picking up a set of ratcheting wrenches for this install. There's a lot of different aspects of this that ratcheting wrenches will be a lot easier to use. All right. So, once we broke that loose, I can back this off with my hand. Now, big thing to remember is we have to dislodge the ball joint from the knuckle. You can see that this stud didn't break free with that. So I'm gonna leave this nut on a couple of threads, we're gonna grab our hammer, and we're gonna swing and tap against here to dislodge that. And then we'll use a pry bar to pull it down and take our nut off. Now, for this, you wanna grab a ball peen hammer, and we're gonna tap right up against the side here of the knuckle.With that dislodged, you'll see that the upper control arm moves freely in there. Let's take our nut off. Once you have the castle nut and spacer out, set those aside. All right. So, from here, we can go back to the tie rod end, take that nut off, lift the tie rod end out. I like to hang it up over that sway bar end link, and then put our nut back on the stud, just so we don't lose it. Here, we can lift the upper control arm out of the knuckle. And what I like to do is just grab the upper control arm castle nut and thread it right back on again, so we don't lose it, just like the tie rod end.All right. Next up, we're gonna tackle the bottom strut bolt holding it to the lower control arm. Now, the nut here, I'm gonna use a 15/16 deep socket on my impact gun, and I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter wrench to hold the bolt head on the inside. At this point, you can grab a ball peen hammer and just tap the end of that, to pop it through. Some cases, you may be able to pull it straight out. If not, you can grab a flathead screwdriver and just stick it in there and hammer the back end of that.All right. So now we can focus on the top three strut tower nuts. Now grab a 15-millimeter wrench, and I'm gonna use, again, the 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench. Again, this really comes in handy. We're gonna loosen up these three top nuts. All right. So, now our strut is free. I'm gonna use a pry bar here, between the lower control arm and the strut body at the bottom, to pry this guy out of position.Man 1: So now that we got our strut assembly out, we're going to remove our upper control arm. That's gonna take an 18-millimeter on a ratchet, and a socket, and we're going to loosen these two bolts up here, and pull our control arm out of the way. So, now we're gonna remove our two 18-millimeter bolts right here. I'm gonna take my 1/2-inch drive on with my 18-millimeter socket and remove these bolts.And that removes that one. Now we'll go on to this side. Get up in here. Pull this bolt out like that. And now that we got both our bolts out, gonna be able to just pull and slide your control arm out like that. And now you're gonna wanna repeat this whole uninstall procedure on the other side. So now that we have our upper control arm removed, I'm gonna install our new upper control arm. And what we're gonna do is just take this, put this in place, and put our bolts back in. So I'm gonna take this, get it up into position, take our 18-millimeter bolts and get these started. Might take a little bit to move them around. And then once you get them, we put our nut on the back.Now we're gonna do the same thing on this side. You're gonna have to move it around a little bit. Sometimes it's a little tough because this is all new, and it's crushed a little bit. I opened it a little bit, just to get it to start. Now that I got it in, put our nut on the back side. Now we'll take our 18-millimeter and our ratchet, and we'll tighten them up. And I'm gonna take my 1/2-inch drive and my 18-millimeter, and tighten our bolts back up. That's that one. Now we'll tighten this one back up. Now we'll install our strut.Now that we got our upper control arm in, I'm gonna install our strut assembly, and take it and stick it up in place. And I'm gonna take our 17-millimeter nuts, run them in by hand, just to get them so it holds the assembly in place. Now we'll get some pry bars and we'll pry it in place down in the bottom. So now we got our strut assembly in place. I got my three bolts, or three nuts up here, started. I'm going to maneuver this into this location here. I'm gonna take a big pry bar, get up in here, and pry it into place. And then we're gonna have to use a couple different pry bars to get this to fit. So I'm gonna take this one and get it in that position there.Once you get it down like that, it'll start to fall on the place like it did. Now we'll get another pry bar, we'll move it up, and then we'll start our bolt. So now what I did was I took my pry bar and I put it in here, and I'm gonna push the strut this way. And as I'm pushing the strut this way, I'm gonna take this other pry bar, get it underneath here and lift up, and try to get it to go back over the hole. And I'm gonna just tell you that it is a little tricky to do, but, just like that, it can be done.And then once you get it back there, what you're gonna have to do is kind of fish your smaller pry bar underneath it, so you can lift it up and then get your bolt started. So, you gotta keep pressure on the bigger pry bar so it doesn't pop out. And what I usually do is put my shoulder into it, push it back, and try to get the hole to line up. It takes a little bit to do it. And if you're doing it on the ground, like, I'm doing on a lift, it's a lot easier, but if you're doing it on the ground with a jack, and you got jack stands under your vehicle, it might make it a little bit more trickier, but it can be done.So, once I get it close to where I want it, I start the bolt. Now, once you get the bolt started, like that, I'm gonna take my hammer and tap it through. You still might need your pry bar a little bit, just to pick up on it. And now we have our lower mount and our bolt back in. So now we'll take my 21-millimeter on my impact gun, and I got a 15/16 wrench on the back. We're gonna tighten this up. So now that we have that tightened up, we'll start reinstalling our suspension, our sway bar, and our ball joint.So now that we got our strut in, we got our bottom bolt in, what I'm gonna do is I have my vehicle down on the ground. If you are on the ground already, it's pretty easy. You're gonna put a jack underneath the lower control arm. Just start jacking the vehicle up, or the control arm, I should say. And that's gonna make it easier to get this self-blocking nut started that they give you in the kit. So, once I have that started, I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter, and I'm gonna tighten this up.Now that we have that tight, we'll release our jack, and we'll start installing our tie rod. So now I'm going to install my tie rod, and put this in place, and then take our 21-millimeter and tighten this up. So I'll put this in place, get our nut started. I'm gonna take my 1/2-inch impact gun with my 21-millimeter, and tighten this up. Next, take my 16-millimeter nut, start it on my sway bar in the back, and get that started. I'm gonna take my 3/8 gun with my 16-millimeter, and tighten this up. And now we'll go up and tighten up our nuts that are holding our strut in. So now we're gonna tighten our three 15-millimeters up here. I'm gonna take my 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench, tighten these up. And now you're gonna wanna repeat this same install procedure on the opposite side.So, now that we got our front together, we're gonna start on our uninstall of the rear. We're going to remove our coil spring. To do that, we're gonna have to take our shock off. We're gonna have to take our sway bar links out, and a couple other things, and that's what we're gonna do right now. I'm gonna take my impact gun with my 17-millimeter, and start removing our sway bar links. So, first thing we're gonna do is we're gonna remove our nut here that holds our sway bar on. I'm gonna take my 18-millimeter wrench and my gun with an 8-millimeter on it. I'm gonna put this on here and remove our nut. That'll get our sway bar out of the way.And now that we have that, I'm gonna take my 13-millimeter wrench, and up top here, there is a bolt holding on the brake line. We're gonna remove that, so that the rear drops down and it doesn't pull on the hose. So now we're gonna take my 13-millimeter ratcheting wrench, remove this bolt here, holding this bracket on that holds our brake line. That way, when we lower the rear down, this brake line won't be pulling. It'll let it hang down far to get the coil spring out.And we'll get that down out of the way. So now we're going to remove our bolt here that holds our Panhard bar. That'll allow our rear to drop down. I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter on my 1/2-inch impact gun, break this loose. The nut on the other side has a bracket on it, so we don't have to put a wrench on. Just get that out of the way. Next, I'm gonna remove our lower shock bolt. I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter, hold it in place, and then my 21-millimeter on my impact gun. Remove the bottom bolt.So now that we have everything loose, Panhard bar, shock mounts lowered, sway bar links out, what we're gonna do is I'm going to lower our pole jack. Now, if you're doing this in your driveway, you're gonna wanna just lower your jack down. Let the one side hang down. You'll be able to remove our coil spring. After we get our coil spring out, then we'll go back over. We'll get our bolt up top and remove the shock, because in this kit, we have to put a shock on.So I'm gonna lower my pole jack down, just like this, and let the rear hang. And you'll feel or hear the spring pop out of the pocket. And all you wanna do is lift up and pull it out, just like that. Keep that rubber. We're gonna probably be reusing that. So now, on this kit, we have to remove our shock. So what I'm gonna have to do is take this inner wheel well out to get up top, because there is a bolt and a nut up here holding this shock on.Now, on our vehicle, there's 8-millimeter bolts that are holding this wheel well in. There's two in here. Our vehicle doesn't have them, so you're gonna have to remove yours if yours has them. Ours is missing them for some reason. So what I'm gonna do is take the rest of these out and pull our inner liner out, so that way, we can get back here and get this shock. So I'm gonna take my impact gun with my 8-millimeter and start removing our screws. Now I'm gonna take my impact and my 8-millimeter, remove our screws and then remove our liner.When you remove these, don't be afraid to push and pull. Some of them are in there for a while and it's plastic. It's pretty hard plastic to move. But now that that's out, we can get up here to our shock bolt, and be able to get our upper shock and bolt out, and then we can put our new shock on. So now we're gonna remove our upper shock bolt. The nut behind here is gonna be very hard to get to. So what we did is we took one of our harbor freight wrenches, we heated it up, we bent it, made it so that we can get back behind here, hold the nut.You're not gonna be able to get a socket back here. You can also use a stubby 21-millimeter wrench. You could use a crow's foot, if you have one, and 21-millimeter to get back here and then hold it. What we did was just like I said, we took our wrench, we heated it up, we bent it, and we made it so that we can get back here and remove this nut. So I'm gonna take this wrench plus my 21-millimeter on my impact gun and remove this upper bolt.Now you're gonna wanna just repeat this whole uninstall procedure on the other side. So now that we have everything uninstalled, we're gonna start with our installation. We're going to first install our shock, then we're gonna install our upper mount here that's gonna give us our lift for our rear. Then we'll go and start reassembling the rest of the back chassis.So, now we're gonna install our upper shock bolt into our mount here, and get this started. I'm gonna put it in, just have it come through a little bit. Now, this is the one where the nut's trickier to get to, so I'm gonna take my hand and stick it up inside here with this nut, and get this nut to start.Now, once I get it started, I'm gonna take my homemade wrench that we made here with a 21- millimeter, and get on the back side, and hold it in place. And I'm gonna take my 1/2-inch impact gun with my 21-millimeter and tighten this up. So next, we're gonna install our spacer for our coil spring. In this kit, it's gonna give you a piece of plastic here. That's gonna go on the bottom, like that. And then this top piece with the nut welded on, we're gonna take that, slide that into place like that, so it sits into the pocket. Gonna take the Allen bolt that they give us in the kit, stick that through, get it started.And once we get that started, I'm gonna take my 3/8 electric impact gun with my 5/16 Allen, and tighten this up. Once we have that tight, now we'll reinstall our inner liner. So now we're gonna install our inner liner. I'm gonna put it back up into place. Again, sometimes they're a pain in the butt to get in and out. So I'm gonna get one side started, and then push around, and push the other side up in. And once we have it in place like that, I'm gonna take the 8-millimeter screws that I took out, start them. I'm gonna take my 3/8 gun with my 8-millimeter, and tighten these up.Now, remember, our truck was missing some screws, so that's why we didn't put any in here. But on your vehicle, if you have them all, make sure you put them all in. And if you are using a gun like this, this is plastic. The bolts are thin. Just take your time. You don't have to put a lot of tension on them when you tighten them up. So now that we have our liner back in and our shock on, we're gonna reinstall our coil spring. We're gonna take it, put it up inside, get it in that perch. I'm gonna take a pry bar, get underneath the back of the spring here. And when I lift up, I'm gonna push back as I lift up, and I'm gonna get it so it's on top, and then push it in. And once it's in, we're just gonna lift up on our jack now, and you'll see it start compressing it. And now we can start reinstalling the rest of our sway bars and our Panhard bar.So now that we have our rear jacked up some, we're gonna get our Panhard bar in place. I'm gonna take my pry bar, get underneath it here a little bit, and pull it into place. That way, I can line the bolt up. And once I got that started, I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter, run it in, and then get the nut started on the back of it.Now we'll install our sway bar. Put this into place. I'm gonna take my 18-millimeter here, get it started. Take my 18-millimeter wrench, hold this with my 8-millimeter on my 3/8 impact gun, and tighten this up. Next, I'm gonna take my brake line, install it back up in here. Put our bolt in, tighten it up with our 13-millimeter ratcheting wrench.So next, we're gonna install our lower shock. We're gonna put our 21-millimeter bolt through it. I just ratcheted it a little bit, just so I can get the nut started. So, once you get the nut started, I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter wrench, I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter on my 1/2-inch impact gun, and we're gonna tighten this one up. And that'll wrap up this install of the rear. You're gonna wanna repeat this same procedure of the uninstall and install on the opposite side.That wraps up this review and install of our Rough Country 3-Inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with Lifted N3 Struts and Premium N3 Shocks, for '12 to '18 Four-Wheel Drive RAM 1500s without Air Ride. Thanks for watching. And for all things RAM, keep it right here at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Maximum On-Road and Off-Road Performance. If you’re in the market for a lift kit for your RAM 1500 that perfectly balances off-road performance and on-road comfort, then this Rough Country 3-Inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with Lifted N3 Struts and Premium N3 Shocks is exactly what you seek. This suspension lift kit offers 3 inches of overall lift, giving you the capability to take on tougher off-road terrain as well as run larger tires. More importantly, this lift kit comes with components designed to retain your truck’s factory ride quality so you never lose daily drivability.
High Quality Lifted N3 Front Struts. This lift kit’s 3 inches front lift is provided by a pair of high-quality N3 lifted struts. These struts utilize a twin-tube design featuring pressurized nitrogen gas charge and 10-stage variable valving. These technologies combine to provide just the right amount of damping performance for the terrain you’re on. Additionally, these struts are paired with pre-loaded coil springs made from high-strength spring steel for consistent heavy-duty performance.
Premium N3 Rear Shocks. This suspension lift kit also replaces your stock rear shocks with a pair of premium N3 shocks. Just like the struts, these shocks utilize a nitrogen gas-charged twin-tube design with 10-stage variable valving, providing exceptional damping performance off-road and mellow but responsive ride quality on the highway. Moreover, these rear dampers feature an aluminum alloy shock body designed to provide more efficient heat dissipation, ensuring reliable performance.
Durable Front Upper Control Arms. To maintain proper steering geometry, this lift kit includes a pair of re-designed upper control arms. Specifically, these control arms feature angles that have been optimized for your truck’s 3 inches of lift. This translates to improved steering feel with fewer chances of binding. Similarly, these control arms utilize high-grade Clevite rubber that is less prone to wear when compared to stock. Lastly, these components are machine-formed from premium tubular forged aluminum and are finished in a corrosion protective black powder coating.
Rugged Rear Coil Spring Spacers. This lift kit also comes with a pair of rear coil spring spacers that work to maintain the ideal geometry of your rear suspension components. These spaces also eliminate the need to purchase new coil springs for your rear. Lastly, these components are manufactured from a composite material.
Efficient Install Procedure. This suspension lift kit’s individual components are designed to install into factory locations without the need for extra drilling or other modifications, making its installation quite efficient. Also, installation requires just standard hand tools to complete and all necessary hardware is included.
Backed by a Limited Lifetime and Limited 3-Year Warranties. This Rough Country bolt-on suspension lift kit is backed by a limited lifetime warranty covering factory defects to the hard components and a limited 3-yar warranty covering the shocks and struts. Please visit the manufacturer’s website for more details.
Application. The Rough Country 3-Inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with Lifted N3 Struts and Premium N3 Shocks fits 2012-2018 4WD RAM 1500 models without Air Ride.
Rough Country 31231
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 6 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
What's in the Box
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