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Hey, guys, Adam here with americantrucks.com. And today, we're taking a closer look at and installing the ReadyLift 4-Inch SST Suspension Lift Kit with the Bilstein 5100 Shocks, available for the '09 to '18 Four-Wheel Drive RAM 1500s without Air Ride and excluding the EcoDiesel. You should be checking out this kit if you're interested in three things, reducing your factory rake by lifting the front and rear, fitting wheels and tires on your truck up to 35 inches, and getting additional ground clearance upfront to help with some light off-road situations. This kit from ReadyLift lifts the front end of the truck 4 inches and the rear 2 inches and includes upper control arms sway bar drop brackets to accommodate the new lift angle along with upgraded rear shocks for a better ride quality.First and foremost, fitting larger wheels and tires on your RAM isn't too hard. Off the factory line, this generation RAM comes with anywhere from 30-inch up to 33-inch all-season tires, ours has factory 33s. If you're looking to fit up to 35s comfortably, then you'll need a leveling or even a lift kit like this one. The rear is no problem, but 4 inches is more than enough front end lift to help with up to 35s without modification. With some of the really more aggressive mud-terrain tires, you may experience some very slight rubbing at full turn depending on your wheel offset, but obviously, fitting 35 is extremely doable, especially with a 4-inch kit as you can see here on our '14 RAM. When it comes to leveling out your truck's appearance by reducing the factory rake, a 4-inch front and 2-inch rear lift kit like this one from ReadyLift does just that.If you're not familiar with the term rake, just know that it refers to your truck's front end sitting lower than the rear in order to help with towing and hauling. You're nearly eliminating that rake with this kit here while lifting the entire truck up in the process. Here, you're lifting the entire truck, but lifting the front more than the rear to level it out. Getting additional ground clearance is obviously an advantage of getting a full lift kit. Since you're lifting the entire truck up several inches, you'll be able to drive right on over some of the smaller obstacles that you otherwise would have come in contact with at the front or rear. The stock front bumper and lip sits pretty low, so adding that additional height can make the difference with those off-road or on-road hazards. This particular kit from ReadyLift is CNC machined from billet aluminum.The front end is achieved with a strut top spacer that measures in at right around 1.25 inches. It also has a preload spacer here that measures in at about 2 inches. The preload spacer sits under the front strut hat on top of the spring and pre-compresses or preloads the spring. This causes a slightly sportier tighter front end ride suspension. Those spacers along with the change in suspension geometry results in the 4-inch final front lift. The rear spacer measures in at 2 and 1/4 inches and sits at the top of the spring. Because it's also a larger lift, it also includes rear bump stop extensions to accommodate for the bigger gap in the rear. Because the 4-inch lift changes the suspension geometry a bit, your factory ball joints would be under a bit more stress. This kit prevents that by upgrading to tubular upper control arms with upgraded ball joints for greater wheel articulation and improved downward suspension travel.These upper control arms feature new TCT non-bonded maintenance-free pivot bushings with side biter washers, along with heavy-duty 1-ton ball joints. The Bilstein 5100 shocks are made for 0 to 2-inch lift applications and have patented digressive valving that adapts rapidly to the change in terrain. These have 46-millimeter monotube gas pressure designs with zinc coatings for corrosion and rust resistance. The price for this kit comes in right around $1,000. This is right in the middle of the road for pricing when it comes to full lift kits like this, and includes more components to correct your suspension geometry and maintain great ride quality, especially thanks to these shocks, without being all-inclusive, like premium lift kits with full lift coil-overs.The installation for this lift kit comes in at three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. You'll need some specialty tools like a spring compressor to get the job done, thanks to those preload spacers. And it'll take you about five, maybe six hours from start to finish to knock out the front and the rear. If you don't have experience or feel comfortable tackling this yourself, there's no shame handing it over to a professional to get done properly. Keep in mind, you want to get an alignment done once everything is said and done, and be sure to torque down everything back to factory spec. I'm going to walk you through the whole process, let's get started. Tools used in this install, and keep in mind, guys, it may vary per vehicle. We used an air impact gun and a cordless impact, a variety of ratchets and extensions, a variety of sockets, mainly a full socket set, including an 8, 13 deep socket and swivel socket, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18 short and deep sockets, 19, 21, 22, 15/16ths deep sockets, along with the universal swivels recommended for 1/2-inch, an 8-millimeter hex socket or Allen key, a variety of wrench sets including a 15/16ths, 18, and 19-millimeter. We also used a variety of ratcheting wrenches include a 14, 15, 18, 17, and 19-millimeter. Variety of screwdrivers, like this flathead here, dead blow mallet along with a hammer, a variety of pry bars is recommended, and a variety of specialty tools.All right. Some specialty tools used in this install include an open-ended or Pass-Through ratchet, along with the appropriate Pass-Through extension and 18-millimeter short socket that's used to disassemble the shock body. Now, that's something that you may want to pick up from an auto parts store or a hardware store if you need to, if you're not able to get the top strut hat nut off with an impact gun. Also on the table, which is a little bit untraditional and orthodox is a bent 21-millimeter wrench. This is something that will help you get off the factory rear shock. Now, if you have a very short open-ended wrench that may work as well, most people do not. If not, you can pick up an affordable 21-millimeter wrench, heat it up with a Mini-Ductor like we did, and then bend it on a vice. With that said, you will also need a table vice, a spring compressor, floor jacks if you're working on the floor, along with a hydraulic jack.All right. To kick things off, I'm gonna show you guys how to uninstall your factory strut here on our front driver side. Now, of course, you want to get your wheel out of the way, that's step number one. We're supported on a lift, but if you're working on the floor, make sure you have a floor jack properly supporting the weight of the vehicle. Moving on from there, we'll have to disconnect the ABS lines from the knuckle and from the brake line itself, just to make sure that when the knuckle drops down out of the upper control arm, we're not putting too much stress on those brake lines. All right. So, for this ABS line, just follow it down to the back of your knuckle here that's connected with a plastic clip. We're just going to wiggle that back and forth until it pops up. Now, you want to follow that guy up to the top here, that's connected to your brake line. That, you're just going to pull apart just like that. Now, we have more slack on our brake lines, so we're not putting tension on them. Next up, grab a 16-millimeter deep socket, and we're going to remove the factory nut off of our sway bar end link. All right. Set that aside. All right. Next up, we're going to disconnect our tie rod end. Now, before we get started, you want to know that this is a 21-millimeter nut. Now, in some cases, if you use an impact gun on this, the entire stud will spin in that ball joint. You may need a 10-millimeter socket and a 21-millimeter wrench to get the nut off while holding that stud steady. For our first time, I'm going to use our 21-millimeter deep socket in my air gun to get this guy off.All right. So, ours didn't give us any trouble, but that is still worth noting. Now, before I take this guy out, I'm actually going to leave it in and just put that nut a couple of threads on just to keep the entire hub assembly from rotating while tackling the upper control arm. All right. So, next, we're going to do the upper control arm to the knuckle. Now, RAM uses a castle nut here, which has these open gaps all the way around, and through one of the gaps going through the stud itself is a metal retaining pin. I'm gonna use needle-nose pliers to pull that pin straight out. All right. Set that aside. Now, for this, I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. I highly recommend picking up a set of ratcheting wrenches for this install. There's a lot of different aspects of this that ratcheting wrenches will be a lot easier to use. All right. So, once we broke that loose, I can back this off with my hand. Now, big thing to remember is we have to dislodge the ball joint from the knuckle. You can see the stud didn't break free with that. So, I'm gonna leave this nut on a couple of threads, we're going to grab our hammer, and we're going to swing and tap against here to dislodge that, and then we'll use a pry bar to pull it down and take our nut off. Now, for this, you want to grab a ball-peen hammer and we're going to tap right up against the side here of the knuckle.All right. With that dislodged, you'll see that the upper control arm moves freely in there. Let's take our nut off and it comes with that larger spacer. Once you have the castle nut and spacer out, set those aside. All right. So, from here, we can go back to the tie rod end, take that nut off, lift the tire rod end out. I like to hang it up over that sway bar end link, and then put our nut back on the stud just so we don't lose it. Here, we can lift the upper control arm out of the knuckle. There we go. And what I like to do is just grab the upper control arm castle nut and thread it right back on again so we don't lose it, just like the tie rod end. All right. Next up, we're going to tackle the bottom strut bolt holding it to the lower control arm. Now, the nut here, I'm going to use a 15/16ths deep socket on my impact gun, and I'm going to use a 21-millimeter wrench to hold the bolt head on the inside.At this point, you can grab a ball-peen hammer and just tap the end of that to pop it through. Some cases, you may be able to pull it straight out. If not, you can grab a flathead screwdriver and just stick it in there and hammer the back end of that. All right. So, now, we can focus on the top three strut tower nuts. I'll grab a 15-millimeter wrench and I'm going to use again the 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench. Again, this really comes in handy. We're going to loosen up these three top nuts.All right. So, now, our strut is free. I'm gonna use a pry bar here between the lower control arm and the strut body at the bottom to pry this guy out of position. All right. So, the next step, we're at our spring compressor. We have to put our preload spacer right underneath of the strut top hat and on top of the coil spring. Now, I've got this set up on our compressor already. If you're not familiar with spring compressors, there's definitely no shame handing this over to a professional shop because this can be pretty dangerous if you don't have it done properly. We're basically gonna take the tension off of the bottom spring seat by compressing the spring so that we can take our top hat off. With that spring compressed, we'll be able to loosen up that nut without it bursting off.So, you wanna make sure you're exercising extreme caution, and then you're gonna start compressing your spring. All right. Once you have that spring compressed, and you can see that coming off the bottom there, we can grab our 18 socket and get that nut off the top. All right. So, occasionally, you'll have trouble getting this nut off, and the reason being is it'll just spin the entire rod inside the strut. If that is the case, then you need some specialty tools. I have an open-ended ratchet with an 18 socket on there, and the open-ended ratchet will allow me to put an 8-millimeter deep socket with an extension through it to hold the stud in place. So that way, we can just work this guy off without the stud completely rotating every time. All right. Once you have that cracked loose, bring that strut down, and we can start decompressing the spring.All right. So, now that we have everything decompressed, we're gonna take this top hat off, but you want to leave the bump stop in, that's the isolator that goes on top of that spring. That guy is going to go right where it is. Take your new spacer, and it's got this indented lip, so it really hugs that guy in there. It's a perfect fit, that's going to go next. And finally, take your top hat and sit it on top. The top hat has a rubber sleeve underneath so you don't have metal on metal rubbing together. At this point, we can put our strut up through the bottom, compress our spring, this entire assembly, we'll have to compress it quite a bit to get the threads to come back through the top, and then we'll put our factory nut on. All right. So, now we can compress our spring. We need to compress it again enough just to have the threads come through, which will end up being honestly quite a bit. All right. So, now, we can feed our factory strut up through the middle. You want to make sure it's seating properly on the bottom, where that spring is, make sure it's coming up through the top, grab that factory nut, and thread it back through.So, now, we can take our spacer and set it right on top of our factory strut. It only drops on one way, so if you're having trouble lining it up, just keep rotating it to match the holes up, take your factory nuts, and put them over the factory studs. The new nuts included in the kit will hold the new studs to the truck. You just want to use those factory nuts at this point, thread them on by hand, grab your 15 socket, and tighten these downAll right. Now, we can throw the entire strut assembly in the truck. Now, we can take our strut assembly, throw this guy back in the vehicle. At this point, we only really need one nut included in the kit just to hold it in place at the top of the strut tower. Just tighten it down by hand. Now, we can put everything else back together. All right. Now, before we put everything back together, it may be helpful to take the top of the sway bar end link nut off, along with the bushing and bracket there or the spacer. We're just gonna set that aside. It'll give us more articulation in the lower control arm. All right. So, at this point, I'm just gonna lift that tie rod end out of the way so you can see, we basically need to get this fork on the bottom of the strut over the lower control arm to seat where those open holes are. I recommend using a pry bar. I think it's going to be one of your easier ways to get this done.You're basically just going to lift up and pry down so that it seats correctly on the lower control arm. There it is. All right. So, the next part is to get the factory bolt back through the bottom of the strut. Bolt head is going to be on the inside facing out like that. Now, this gets to be pretty tricky getting the bolt holes to line up, so you might want to grab a smaller pry bar, and you're basically going to lift up until the hole on the inside lines up so you can get that bolt through. So, I've got a helping hand here, we're going to put the bolt in the opposite way it came out to help line it up, grab a hammer and tap it through.All right. Now, I know getting that bolt back in is a lot of a problem. It can give you a little bit of a headache here trying to get it back in the same way it came out. So, if you need to, you can flip the bolt around and put the bolt head on the front of the vehicle side going into the inside of the lower control arm. There's no problem doing that. It doesn't make a difference. So, that's what we did there just to get it to line up better. Grab your hammer and tap it all the way through. All right. So, now, we can put our nut back on the other side here, grab your 15/16ths wrench for the nut and your 21 socket for the bolt head and tighten them down. All right. Let's reconnect our tie rod end. So, I'm gonna take off that factory nut that I'd put on there for safekeeping, lift up your knuckle, and drop that guy into place. Thread the factory nut back on. All right. Grab your 21 socket and tighten down that nut. All right. Now, this last step's a little bit more difficult to see because the inner wheel well liner is here, but you want to make sure you're putting all three nuts on all three studs. We already had one on the front, so we just gotta hit these back two. And then from here, you're gonna grab a 17 socket or ratchet and tighten these three down. For these, I like to use a ratcheting wrench. I find it to be easier because this one's a little bit longer, I get a little bit more leverage.All right. Now that we have everything else out of the way, last step here is to focus on swapping our upper control arm. Now, getting the old one out of the way is extremely easy. There's one bolt holding each of the sides onto the frame here. I'm going to use my 18 short socket this time, along with the swivel on my impact gun, I'm basically gonna go into this wheel well. It is an awkward angle, but you can get this guy out and I'm just gonna gun this guy off. The nut itself has a plate welded to it. So, it should catch on the frame, so you don't need a ratchet or a wrench to hold the nut on the other side. There you go. Disconnect that from my gun. Pull this guy out. Now, this bolt should just slip out.All right. This side is a little bit trickier. You have a couple of wires in the way, I pushed the wheel well liner back in. I'm using the same socket and swivel, but you have to get a little creative of how you get that on. Now, the nut can't really back out all the way in the strut tower, so you gotta pull it a certain way and basically feed the bolt off of that nut. So, you can slide that out. Do a little yoga around the wires, pull your upper control arm out. We have a new upper control arm out of the way, and now we have our ReadyLift Upper Control Arm here but I want to walk you through some similarities and differences between the two here. First and foremost is terms of fitment, it's going to be OEM fitment, of course. This is going to use the factory bolts that we just took off of the frame there, and it's got some new hardware connecting it to the actual knuckle itself. In terms of overall quality, the new upper control arm from ReadyLift is a tubular steel upper control arm. So, it actually has a little bit of a wider or larger diameter than the factory upper control arm, which isn't as strong.The more important thing about this is the ball joint. This is going to give you greater wheel articulation. It's not as limited in its rotation ability as the factory one is, which is what can wear this out over time with a lifted application. Four inches of a lift is a pretty good amount. It's not your simple leveling kit there. Getting better wheel articulation is going to help give the ball joint and the upper control arm, the longevity that you want out of it, otherwise, it'll get worn out like your factory one will pretty quickly. Finally, you're also going to get better downward suspension travel with this, thanks to the better wheel articulation. So, the ball joint can rotate a little bit more than the factory one can, but when it comes to full droop or downward wheel articulation, you're going to be able to get a little bit more out of this one than your factory. With that said, let's toss this guy in place with the factory bolts on the frame, and then we'll move forward.So, now, we can take our upper control arm. They are side-specific, so make sure you're picking the correct side. Just match it up with the one you took off, and you're basically gonna slide this guy in place. Grab the factory bolt and put it back through. Now that we have those two bolts in place, let's set it on our knuckle here and then tighten the bolts down. So, I'm just going to take the castle nut off of the new upper control arm, you want to make sure you have one of those larger spacers included in the kit there as well. Move this into the position, set it down. You should be able to pull it down by hand because the two bolts aren't tightened down yet. But if you need to, you can use a pry bar. Put the spacer on, follow it up with the new castle nut. All right. So, now, we can tighten this guy down and then the top two bolts. Grab your 19 deep socket and tighten this down. I'm going to use a swivel as well. Now, we can take the retainer pin and put it back through the hole there. All right. Grab your 18 socket, again, I'm using a swivel and tighten down the top two upper control arm bolts. All right. So, next up, we're looking at the front of the vehicle here. This is our front crossmember. We have to unbolt the factory front sway bar brackets holding it to the frame. We have to relocate them with the relocation bracket. So, when I say relocate, we're really just dropping this down a little bit. So, instead of it bolting there, the sway bar will bolt somewhere here. It's just going to relocate to compensate for the different height with the 4-inch lift kit. So. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket along with a swivel on my impact gun, I'm going to get these two off on both sides. Same thing on the other side too.So, next up, we're going to install our relocation brackets, and it's really just this plate. Now, you'll notice that the plate has to kind of a little bit different sides. One side has these open-indented holes, and that's what you want facing you. Put the open-indented hole at the top, and we're basically gonna bolt that down to those factory holes that we just took these factory bolts out of and put it right back through with the factory bolts. Now, the idea here is we're basically relocating or just dropping the sway bar down, maybe an inch or two so the sway bar bracket will now bolt to the two threaded holes there. So, now, we can basically take our 18 socket and tighten these two bolts down all the way through those indented holes. All right. So, you just want it to clear so it's completely flush, do the same thing on the other side, and then we'll bolt these guys up with the new hardware.All right. So, now, we're basically putting the sway bar up into position on the threaded holes on those brackets, the other two holes. Grab the new short bolts included in the kit, along with the flat washer, and we're going to use the new bolts to bolt these guys down. So, now, we can line up the other side as well. Grab your 19 socket and tighten those four down. All right. To kick off the uninstall in the rear, we've got our RAM up in the air, and I have two pole jacks supporting our rear axle. Now, if you're working on the ground, you'll want a hydraulic jack under the pumpkin or the differential, or you can put two hydraulic jacks, one on both sides of the differential. Now, that's gonna help support the weight. As we disconnect some suspension components, that's going to hold that up, and then we'll slowly lower both sides down to release the tension on the spring in order to insert our leveling kit. Now, with that out of the way, I have an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench, which is going to go a long way to help us get this off, and I also have a 1/4-inch ratchet with an 8-millimeter socket. I'm going to first focus on disconnecting our sway bar end link.Now, I'm not going to disconnect the side kinda to get to the frame, I'm going to disconnect the sway bar from the end link, that's an 8-millimeter nut. Now, the reason I have both of these in my hand is because once I start loosening this up, the entire stud likes to spin. To get around that, I'm going to put my 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench on our nut here, and I'm going to put the 8-millimeter socket on the end to hold the stud steady, and then I'm going to loosen this guy up. That way, the stud stays still and we can get the nut off. Keep in mind, guys, what you do for one side, you're going to be doing the exact same thing on the other simultaneously. We're not going to do everything on one side and then everything on the other. For the rear with a solid rear axle, you're going to do both sides at the same time. All right. From there, take it off by hand.Now, what I like to do is once that's disconnected, pull the end link out. What I like to do is just put the nut on the end just so we don't lose it. All right. So, now, we're gonna do this on the other side. All right. With that other side out of the way, the sway bar is free, you can swing that down. Next up, we're going to disconnect our Panhard bar. Now, the Panhard bar connects the axle to the frame. So, it's connected to the axle on our driver side and the frame on the passenger, so we only have to do one side. Just got to get it disconnected from one of the other. So, I'm gonna start here. Now, this bolt goes all the way through and has a nut on the other side with a tab. So, because of that tab, we're not going to need to hold the nut side, that'll hit the frame and hold itself. So, I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter socket to get this guy off.All right. So, the nut came off. There we go, and that's free. All right. Now, on the opposite side of our coil spring is our shock. We need to disconnect the shock from the bottom here, where the 21-millimeter bolt goes through. Now, I've got a 21-millimeter wrench holding on our nut and my 21 socket on the bolt head side. All right. So, now, we can just repeat that on the other side to tackle the shock bolt. All right. At this point, the only thing keeping this axle up right now are these two pole jacks. Now, again, if you're working on the ground, you'll have a hydraulic jack most likely, if that is the case, this is the part we're going to start decompressing. So, we're going to slowly lower these pole jacks down one by one to evenly bring this down and decompress our spring. If you're using a hydraulic jack, don't send it. You want to make sure you're going very slowly decompressing it, otherwise, these things can get a little violent shooting out of their spot. So, slowly decompress, and then we'll pop the spring off.All right. So, I'll do a couple of turns on one side, because now this is uneven, I'll do the other side and kind of bring it down incrementally. All right. Once it starts decompressing, you'll start to hear a little bit of creaking coming from the coils. That's letting you know it's close to fully decompress, and you just saw it fall out. So, this guy is completely loose and we're good to bring it down. The same thing on the other side. Once you can twist it, there's no more pressure or tension on it. So, now, at this point, we're just bringing it down low enough that we can get the spring actually out in order to insert the spacers. All right. There you have it.All right. At this point, we basically can pull our factory spring out. I'm starting here again on our driver side. Now, the spacer for this kit in the rear is going to sit at the top of our spring. So, you want to make sure when you pull the spring out that the isolator comes with it. And then from there, you're going to take the spacer included in the kit. It should already have that black isolator already preinstalled, but if not, you want to make sure you're putting it there. Flip it so that this notch on the bottom goes through the top of the spring, and then we can just feed it back in place. All right. Now, you might need a helping hand to pull down on the rear axle assembly so that you can get this in. And if you need to, you can unbolt the brake line from the frame to give yourself a little bit more slack so you're not putting tension on that brake line. There you go. Do that on both sides.All right. Once your spacer is in place, we just have to jack everything back up into position and rebolt down all of the components, the sway bar end link, the shock itself, and the Panhard bar. So, this is something again, you want to be very careful about because you're putting a lot of tension back on the spring. You don't want to go too fast. You also want to make sure the spring is seated completely properly at the top and on the bottom. So, just make sure it's in the ring up there, which it looks like it is on both sides, we're doing this simultaneously again. And then start jacking it up until the shock matches up with the axle mounting holes. So, you just want to make sure you're jacking it up far enough for that to happen.All right. So, now, we're going to reconnect our Panhard bar, drop that guy into place making sure it's lined up. And if it's not, you can sort of manipulate the axle to go one way or the other. And again, once you get it in there, if you need to, you can grab a hammer and tap it through. Grab that nut and put it on the backside. Grab your 21 socket and tighten it down. All right. Now, to remove our factory shock, the top shock bolt is up here behind our wheel well liner. So, unfortunately, we are going to have to get our wheel well liner out of the way, you may be able to get your hand up in here to get that bolt off, but there's not a ton of room to back it out. So, just getting the liner out of the way is the best route. I'm going to grab my impact gun and an 8-millimeter socket, I'm going to remove all of the screws around the wheel well here, and then there's two in the middle and then we'll be able to pop it off.All right. So, now, we have one right up near the shock itself and one opposite of that. All right. So, now, we can pull the liner out. This next step is honestly gonna take a little bit of trial and error. It's going to be a very specific tool that you're going to need. I'm going to call it a specialty tool. Basically, getting the factory top shock bolt out is nearly impossible with traditional methods. The socket, it's just at such a weird angle you can't really get a socket on it directly. You can try going straight over the gas tank to get it out. But again, with the angle that it's at, you might need a specialty tool. I'm going to recommend our method, which is a little unconventional. Picking up a sacrificial 21-millimeter wrench, and then bending it at the open-end 90 degrees. So, this looks really funky. Obviously, this is not a traditional method, but if you bend this guy 90 degrees, you can go right on over and hook right on the nut on the backside, and gun it off from the front.Now, you can pick up a pretty cheap 21-millimeter wrench at your local auto parts or hardware store. Now, in terms of bending it, we used a mini-ductor, just put the mini-ductor right around it, heat it up till it turns bright red, put it in a vice, and then turn it. And when you turn it 90 degrees, let it cool off, of course, and there you have it. This is a method that a lot of guys are using to get their factory shock off on both the driver and passenger side. Passenger may prove to be a little bit easier because the gas tank's not in the way, but we're on the driver side here. So, what do you say we just get it off? All right. There you have it. You're gonna need to fish the nut out once you have that disconnected, but once you do, pull the bolt out, shock comes out with it. All right. So, we got our factory shock off of the driver side rear here, and I have it in my hand next to our Bilstein 5100 Rear Shock series included in your ReadyLift kit.I want to go through some similarities and differences, and right off the bat, let's talk about appearance. Now, appearance isn't really gonna make a difference to the actual performance, but it's worth noting that there's an obvious visual difference. Your factory shock diameter is a little bit more narrow, not as wide of a diameter as your Bilstein option. The dust boot is a little bit different on your factory shock, it's a nice plastic. This has got a rubber accordion style that's gonna help compress easily so it won't crack over time. The new Bilstein 5,100 here uses Bilstein's patented digressive valving, which in a nutshell, means that this is going to rapidly almost instantaneously adapt with the compression and rebound to your on or off-road terrain. So, if you start going over those heavy terrain bumps, this is going to immediately start compressing and adapting to those situations, but give you a really comfortable drive on-road.So, the Bilstein technology in here is definitely something you want for a lifted application that's putting a lot more stress on your suspension components. This is built for a lifted application and your factory one, just let's be honest, is not. So, this is going to last a lot longer. It's got a better monotube design than your factory one that's going to help with the compression and rebound there. So, overall, something you want off-road. At this point, what I want to do is toss the factory shock aside, install this guy, and start bolting things up, and then we'll move on to the sway bar relocation. All right. So, when you install your shock, you want to make sure you're putting the dust boot at the top end, not the bottom. You want the shock body on the bottle.So, you're going to put it back up into the factory location, take the factory bolt, and put that guy back through. All right. Take that factory nut, and I know this is a little bit of a tight squeeze, but you want to basically hold it in place on the end of the bolt and just twist it so it threads on a little bit. Once you have the nut threaded on the back, grab that bent 21 that we were using if that's the method you're going with, and tighten down this top bolt. All right. So, at this point, we need to decompress the shock enough to line it up with the hole because it is a little bit longer than the factory one here. So, we have to compress it enough so that it lines up. Using a pry bar might be the way to go. Now, you can put your nut back on and tighten that down. Repeat that on the other side.Now, we can focus on relocating our sway bar, which is actually relocating the sway bar top end link, so that's connecting to the frame here. Earlier in the video, I alluded to you may want to disconnect the bracket holding on the brake line like this, and that's what you see here. So, if you haven't done so already, this 13-millimeter bolt will still be holding on this bracket. Got to get that off. We've already done so earlier on. Next, we have to disconnect the bolt holding on the top of the end link, grab an 18 socket and an 18 wrench, and get those off. All right. That's pretty simple. Comes off just like that. You could just lean this guy back a little bit for now. We're going to bolt it back up in a minute.Next, you're going to take the bracket included in the kit, and it's kind of got like a rounded side and a flat side. The flat side is going to go up inside against the frame like that. This larger hole is going to go around the welded on nut on the other side of this bolt. So, it kind of hooks on and seats itself. Grab the short bolt included in the kit, along with a flat washer, we're going to put that guy through, follow it up with a flat washer on the other side and the nut. All right. So, it'll kinda seat just like that. All right. So, now, we can tighten those down. Grab your 19 socket and wrench and tighten those down. All right. Once you repeat that process on the other side, which I've already done, move on. So, with the other side disconnected, you have pretty much free reign on the sway bar end links, put the factory bolt back through through the drop bracket, put the nut on the other side, do the same thing on the other side before tightening this down, then tighten them both down with your 18 socket and wrench. Switch back over to your 18 socket wrench and tighten these down. Do the same thing on the other side.All right. And if you have done this, make sure you're putting the brake line bracket back in place. All right. I'm just using a 13 swivel for this. All right. So, now, we have to put our bump stop brackets on, and it's basically going to sit just like that because now that we have an additional two inches of height in the rear, we want to make sure this bump stop has something to hit, and the axle itself, the pad that it would originally contact is a little bit lower than it was before. So, we add a little bit more to it. Now, you'll see that on this plate, there are two holes. And on the underside of this, there is a retainer pin. Drop that retainer pin on that hole there, take the bolt included in the kit, put it through the top. You might have to spin this a little bit just to get it to drop all the way through. Underneath of this pad is very, very little space, but we have to get a nut underneath there to hold that bolt on. So, you can get creative on how you want to do that, whether it's with some tiny fingers if you have an assistant or something or you can get creative with a wrench. All right. So, the nut for this stud here actually has grooves on it, so it holds itself in the closed end of your wrench. So, grab a 14 wrench, and you're basically gonna feed it in. Figure out where that bolt comes through. And you're basically gonna try to thread this guy on. Grab your 14 socket and tighten this down. All right. Repeat that on the other side.That's gonna wrap up my review and install for the ReadyLift 4-Inch SST Full Suspension Lift Kit with Bilstein 5100 Shocks, which you can get right here at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Lift Kit Type
|Lift Kit Max Tire Size
|Lift Kit Includes Shocks
Higher Ground Clearance. Save your truck’s chassis by installing this ReadyLIFT 4-Inch SST Suspension Lift Kit with Bilstein 5100 Shocks. With this kit, your truck will be able to have an extra 4-inch front lift and an additional 2-inch rear lift. With the higher ground clearance, you’ll be able to confidently drive over bumpy trails without getting your underbody getting damaged.
Bilstein 5100 Shocks. To deliver a comfortable off-road ride, this suspension lift kit is equipped with Bilstein 5100 shocks. These components exhibit excellent damping capabilities, ensuring every shock and vibration is absorbed.
Upper Control Arms. For better wheel travel, this suspension lift kit comes with upper control arms. Every time you hit a bump on the road, the control arms will help keep your tires in contact with the ground.
Bolt-On Installation. Setting up this suspension lift requires a bolt-on process and doesn’t require any modifications. However, to ensure proper installation, you need to possess a moderate to a high level of mechanical expertise.
Warranty. For your assurance, this suspension lift kit is backed by ReadyLIFT’s no-hassle product warranty. If your purchased kit consists of any defective parts, ReadyLIFT will repair or replace them. For more warranty information, you may visit their official website.
Application. This ReadyLIFT 4-Inch SST Suspension Lift Kit with Bilstein 5100 Shocks is made to fit 2009-2018 4WD RAM 1500 models without Air Ride, excluding EcoDiesels.
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