(approx) 4 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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Hey guys, Sara from americantrucks.com. And today we have a review and install of the ReadyLIFT 4-inch SST lift kit fitting your '09 through '18 RAM four-wheel drive models, excluding Air Ride and also excluding the Eco Diesel. This kit is gonna provide you with additional ground clearance and comes with an upper control arm and ball joint, solving a common problem when lifting these trucks.This kit also includes CNC-machined billet-aluminum lift blocks and top-mount spacers. And these billet-aluminum components are certainly gonna outlast kits with urethane options. This ReadyLIFT kit achieves this 4-inch lift without increasing your CV angle, utilizing this spring preload spacer. Coming in at around $800, this kit is one of the most budget-friendly ways to get a 4-inch lift out of your RAM. Now, the only downside to this is that the more expensive kits are gonna come with an entire shock assembly, and this one requires disassembling your shock to add a spacer. However, if you're up for the challenge of a couple extra install steps, it is a great way to save money.I'm giving this install a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. It can be done in approximately 4 hours. It is one of the more involved installs you may run into and it will require some specialty tools like a spring compressor. Also worth noting is that you will have to modify the lower-control arm as well as the shock mount in order to get proper clearance. However, if you have the tools and you're up to the challenge, it is a great way to save some money. With that said, let's jump right into our install.For this install you will need, impact guns, a grinder, ratchets, a pry bar, torque wrench, a socket set, including a 36-millimeter axle nut socket, a set of wrenches, eye protection, a hammer, and some optional but helpful tools include caliper hangers, a pop-clip removal tool, and a pass-through ratchet.Once we have our truck on the lift or on jack stands and our wheels removed, we can go ahead and remove the outer tie rod from the knuckle. You also might wanna support the lower-control arm before you do this because at some point it will be free from the truck. With our 21-millimeter socket, we can go ahead and get this nut off. If our outer tie rod does not wanna come out of our knuckle, you can hit it right here to shock it, and then it should come out fairly simply.Next, we're gonna remove the sway bar from the frame with an 18-millimeter socket. There are four bolts, one on each side of the truck. Next, we're gonna remove the brake caliper from the rotor by removing these two 21-millimeter bolts. Once your caliper bracket bolts are out, you can wiggle this caliper off. You might need a pry bar or a flat-head. And you're gonna want to grab a hanger right away to make sure that this is out of the way and it does not hang by the brake line. If your rotor doesn't wanna come off right away, you can tap right on the back of it with the mallet and it should come off. Make sure that if you do it this way you put a lug nut or something on the other side so it doesn't come flying off, for safety reasons.With our rotor removed, we can now take off our axle nut with a 36-millimeter socket. With the 21-millimeter socket, we're gonna remove the upper ball joint from the knuckle. So you might have to hit the top of the knuckle a little bit with a hammer just to loosen it up, and then the control arm should come out. Using a 13, 16, or 21-millimeter wrench to hold the nut side and an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench to hold the bolt side, we're gonna remove this bolt from the control arm. All right, now we'll move on to the other nut and bolt.So we have our 13, 16, or 21-millimeter on the backside of this nut, we're gonna put our 18-millimeter on the front of this bolt, same as the other side, and go ahead and loosen it up. With that out, we can now slip the bolt out of our control arm. If you haven't already, make sure you remove this sensor cable from the upper control arm. And then remove the upper control arm from your truck. Using our 24-millimeter socket and our 21-millimeter wrench, we're gonna zip this off the bottom of this truck.All right, pulling down on the lower control arm, we can pull the bolt out of the bottom of the shock. Might take a little maneuvering to get it out but it should come out. Using a 15-millimeter socket, we're gonna loosen the three nuts that are on top of the strut and be prepared to pull it off of our truck. If this wheel well liner gets in your way, you can remove it, but it is possible to get this out while leaving it in. And we're gonna leave it in just because I can work around it. With all three nuts removed off the top of our strut, we can now pull down the knuckle, remove the axle slightly out of the back, and then we should be able to wiggle our strut off of the truck. Prying down on the control arm, we should be able to lift our strut up and pull it out. You might wanna grab a buddy for this one because it is a little easier with two people.Now that our shock is out of the truck, we have it in a spring compressor so that we can get our spacer inserted here. Now, if you're going to go the route of a spring compressor, make sure you use extreme caution as this is definitely not the ideal situation for your spring to be in. If you're not comfortable using a spring compressor or you don't have one available, you can definitely take this entire assembly to your local shop. They can compress this for you, insert the spacer, and then you can continue on with your install. Either way, make sure you're using caution for this step.With our spring compressed, we can now remove the top nut. Now we remove our strut from our spring. Remove our top hat from our spring. We're also gonna disconnect this plastic sleeve from this seat here as well because they do need to be reassembled in a specific order. So we need to remove this factory dust shield from this plastic spring lock because they're gonna install in a different order, first up being this factory plastic spring lock, make sure it's seated properly on top of your spring. Next up is gonna be your spacer, followed by the dust shield you may need to get a little more clearance for. And finally, our top hat.Now it's time to reinstall our strut. And one important point to point out is that you should ensure that the strut is facing with the bracket down like this, the spring seats in this little spot right here, and it matches up with the flat part of the back of the top hat. That's gonna ensure it goes back onto the truck properly because if it's just cocked a little bit this way, a little bit this way, this bottom bracket is not gonna clear the bottom of your control arm.So we can still mess around with the positioning of the top hat at this step. You definitely don't wanna get to the next step of reinstalling it on your truck, so we wanna make sure that that's lined up now. So we've got it lined up with the bottom of our spring, pretty lined up with our top hat. We're not gonna get to see this come through until we start to compress the spring, but we wanna get it ballpark where it needs to be right now.Now that we've checked alignment with our strut, we can compress this spring and get the strut reinstalled. Now that our strut is completely assembled, we can zip this down. Let's get this strut installed on our truck.Once we have our spacer on our strut and all put back together, we can now install our strut extension using our factory nuts. Once you have it aligned properly on there, just get these nuts on snug, we don't wanna kill them because we do have to torque it down. Grabbing our torque wrench, we're gonna torque these down to 25 foot-pounds, we already set the torque wrench, so...Next up, we do have to grind the inside of the shock mount as well as the lower control arm on the truck for clearance. We're gonna get started on the shock mount here, we're gonna grind it at about a 45-degree angle. So, you wanna make sure that you're grinding only the mount itself here and not the shock. You can use this weld on the bottom as a reference, but we definitely don't wanna grind into this gas shock. And once we feel confident that we have enough off of this mount down the bottom here, we can go ahead and grind the lower control arm of the truck. Using our grinder, we're also gonna take a little bit out of the lower control arm just behind where the shock mounts, so when the shock leans back into it to mount up top here, it doesn't hit, because that will be a contact point if we don't grind it down. We have drawn a square in the lower control arm, which is where we wanna grind, I recommend doing the same so you don't take too much off. Our shock mounts right about here and leans back into this area, and this is right where we wanna take a little bit out of our lower control arm.Now that our grinding is complete, they do recommend that we put a little coat of paint on the shock that we've ground down on. I think this is a good idea for rust as well. So, I'm just gonna put a couple coats, nothing crazy.Now, our next step is to get these bushings in the outside and inside of our control arms. So, the best way to do this, honestly, is to just use some force and press them in there. If they're not going in, you can definitely use a vise or use some extra tools. But we're gonna try just using the weight of the control arm first. You wanna press it in so this little ridge rests against the outside here, and then you're gonna put one on the inside as well. We'll grab our second arm and repeat that process. Luckily, they go in without too much effort but I like to use gravity and the weight of the arm itself. Usually works pretty good.Next step is our crush sleeve install, and this is gonna be a little bit more difficult than putting our bushings in initially. So we're gonna grab our control arm and head over to the vise just so we can get it in a little easier.Using some of the included bushing lubricant, we're just gonna put a little bit in the inside here, get that around just to make it a little easier to put our crush sleeve in. And it wouldn't hurt to put a little bit on our crush sleeve if you want, they do include enough to do each of these. So...And next up, we're just going to place that in there. Again, we're just gonna put a little bit of bushing grease in here just to make this slide in a little easier. Again, we're just using a little bit of bushing lubricant to help ourselves out. Just be ready for the bushing to slip a little bit when this crush sleeve is going in, it might get tight, and then loosen up and then get tight again. There you are. It might take a little finagling to get this just how you want it, but take your time, line it up nicely so that it's just one smooth shot in. If you don't have a vise, you can definitely use a large c-clamp or rubber mallet, basically anything that's gonna press this in so you're not killing yourself to do it by hand.So, now that we have our upper control arm out of the truck, we can put it side by side with the ReadyLIFT tubular control arm. As you can see, we do have a ball joint that's already in there for you, it is a heavy-duty ball joint, they note on the website. They also include bushings that you can press in, that went in fairly simply, as well as they change the angle of the ball joint which is a solution to a common problem seen in these trucks. When they're lifted, the stock ball joint just doesn't cut it and it can back out in some situations. So, as you can see, they did change the angle here, which is nice to have. And these control arms are available separately from the lift kit. So a nice option if you're considering a lift or leveling kit at all.Now that the paint is dry on our strut, we can get it reinstalled on our truck. We're gonna get these studs through the top of the frame here and get the provided hardware nuts on top just to hold it in there so that we can get the bottom of the strut over the control arm. Again, this won't be full install but you should be able to get a few threads on there just to hold it snug so you're not fighting this the whole time. So you might not be able to get all three nuts on the top up here because we are hitting our lower control arm. But, if you get a little bit in there, if you get them a little bit on, that'll work for now, we can always tighten them down later. But this will hold our strut in place so that we're not also fighting the strut and the control arm at once.Using a pry bar, we're gonna pull down on the lower control arm so that we can get our strut to clear and go into place on its mount. You may wanna grab a friend for this one, it might be a little easier to have some extra set of hands. Prying down on our lower control arm, we can maneuver the strut into place and get our bolt started. Once our bolt is lined up, we might need to use a little mallet to get it all the way through. Just make sure it's aligned when you do this, otherwise, you're gonna damage the head of the...or the end of the bolt.Using our 15-millimeter socket, we're gonna tighten down the nuts on the top of our strut. Now we can reinstall our control arm using our factory hardware. Moving on to the other side, we're gonna be reinstalling our factory hardware. Get the holes and the control arm lined up. Once our bolt is all the way through. Using our 13, 16, or 21-millimeter wrench on the nut side and our 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench on the bolt side, we can get this tightened down.So we do wanna snug that, not tighten it down all the way, we will tighten it down later. Let's get on to the other side. All right, so, once that is snug and not tight, we can move on to our upper ball joint. Lifting up on the bottom of our knuckle, we can now align it with the top of our ball joint and our upper control arm. We do wanna use this included spacer before the castle nut. It is important to being able to tighten this castle nut down. Now we can grab our 19-millimeter and get it tightened down. Once we like the alignment of our castle nut on our ball joint, we can put our cotter pin through, and then we do want to wrap these extra parts of the pin around just to ensure that if this ever wants to come loose, it has this as a stopping point. We're gonna now reinstall our axle nut with our 36-millimeter socket.Now that our knuckle is supported with the upper ball joint, we can take away our jack and lower it down, it's just a little bit easier to work on. We can now reinstall our rotor. And next up, grab our caliper and bracket and get that installed as well.We're gonna unhang our caliper and get it back over the top of our rotor and bolt it on. Be really careful with the brake line here because that's still hanging. We wanna make sure we're not hanging it by that at any point. All right, let's grab our bolts and get it bolted on.Using our 21-millimeter socket, we're gonna tighten down both caliper bolts. With our 21-millimeter socket, we wanna tighten down our outer tie rod to our knuckle. We're gonna grab a hand tool, since it is spinning with the impact gun. If it still wants to spin, you can hold it down here with little downward pressure, or you can put a wrench on the bottom here and hold that as well.We're gonna button up this side by reattaching our sensor line to the back of the knuckle, this brake line here, and then the upper control arm as well. Once we have this buttoned up, we do wanna note that we're still leaving the upper control arm the bottom of the strut loose and we're not reattaching the sway bar because we are gonna move on to the other side. With our driver side all buttoned up, we can now repeat that process on the passenger side.Now that we have both sides installed, we can install our drop brackets on our sway bar. We're gonna use the factory hardware in the top hole and the center hole here, and then our sway bar is gonna bolt to these holes right here. Let's get this installed on our truck. Sliding our bracket in here, we're gonna first line up this top bolt. And this is our factory hardware mounting to our factory location. Next up, you might need to disconnect part of the sway bar, or pry back a little bit, but the bolt needs to go right about where actually the bar is sitting now. So, if we can get that out of the way...We're gonna repeat that process on the other side, starting with our top bolt. And our sway bar is clear so we're gonna maneuver this second bolt in. Now we can get these tightened down. We're gonna use a pass-through ratchet on the bottom bolt here. If you don't have this tool, or if you can't get to this with your ratchet, you can definitely disconnect the sway bar, but this makes a little easier for us, so, we'll just go ahead and use this.Now we're gonna attach our sway bar to the bracket we just put on our truck. This might be a little bit easier if you wanna do it on the ground, but it's not too difficult, we're gonna use our pry bar and we're gonna do it while the truck is in the air so you guys can see.We're using the hardware that they've supplied in the kit. Grabbing the shortest of our M12 bolt, getting it threaded into the top part of our sway bar. And then we're gonna grab our 19-millimeter and tighten this one down. With our driver side bracket already bolted on, this one should be a little easier. We're gonna get the bolts started here, they should already be pretty lined up. You might have to go sideways with your bracket a little. Moving on to our top bolt. With these bolts in place, we can now tighten them down with our 19-millimeter socket. Now that our front is wrapped, we can get started on the rear.All right, we're set up at the rear of the truck. And the first step for our uninstall is going to be to remove this bolt holding the shock to the lower mount. You're gonna want a 21-millimeter wrench and a 21-millimeter socket. Next step is, we're gonna remove the two bolts that are on the frame here, the lower one holding in our sway bar and the upper one holding in this bracket that holds the brake line and the ABS sensor. Starting with the bolt holding in the sway bar, an 18-millimeter wrench on the nut behind it and an 18-millimeter socket. Using our 13-millimeter socket, we're gonna remove the bolt holding this bracket in. It might be a little easier if you take this wheel liner out but we're gonna leave that in. Just go right behind it. We're gonna repeat that process on the other side.With our axle drop, we can now remove our spring from the truck. Now we're ready to reassemble our spring and get it back in our truck. We wanna put our spacer and rubber isolator on like this and we are leaving the factory isolator on in its position. With our springs in and seated, we raise the pole jacks a little bit just to put some pressure on it and keep the springs in place. We are now gonna install our new bump stops on the factory point.We want this stud here to go in this hole in our factory axle, and then this hole is gonna line up with this opening here. It's oval, so you do have a little bit of play back and forth. And then, using our longer M12 bolts through this hole, and there is a nut they want you to get on the other side, which might take a little bit of finagling. With a 14-millimeter socket up top and a 14-millimeter wrench holding the nut on the bottom, tighten this down. We're now gonna repeat that process on the other side.With our bump stops in place, we can now raise the axle back up so we can get the bolt in the bottom of the shock. We wanna do this at the same time with our pole jacks on each side, or if you have a jack on each side or a jack in the center, just ensuring that they're raising evenly and just keep an eye on our bottom of our shock to the frame. Now that our axle is raised and our shocks line up, we're gonna put the bolts in either side. With our 21-millimeter wrench and socket, we're gonna tighten down the bolt at the base of the shock. We're gonna repeat that step on the other side.Next up is the sway bar drop brackets, they're gonna install to the back part of this frame. This top one is gonna go around the welded nut that holds on the bracket for the brake line. And this is where your bolt is gonna go and that is the drop portion where the sway bar attaches. So you're gonna put this behind and get it over the top of that welded nut. Your bolt is gonna go through the front with a washer on it, this is the M12 by 35. And then the nut with the corresponding washer is gonna go on the other side. And then we can tighten this down. Using our 19-millimeter socket and a wrench for the back, we're gonna get this tightened down.Reinstall the hangar for your brake line to this bracket and grab the bolt that corresponds to that. Next up, you're gonna grab your 13-millimeter and tighten this down. Finally, you're gonna reattach your sway bar using the end link and the factory hardware to the bottom of this drop bracket. Grabbing your 18-millimeter wrench and socket, tighten it down. Now we're going to repeat that process on the other side. Grab your 19-millimeter wrench and socket and get this tightened down. Next up, we're gonna position this bracket that holds the brake line back into its spot. Grabbing the bolt, 13-millimeter, and getting that started. We're gonna grab our ratchet and tighten it down. Finally, the end link for our sway bar. Reinstall it using our factory hardware.Finally, we're gonna get our wheels back on our truck so that we can torque down our shocks and upper control arms. Now that the truck is on the ground, grab your 21-millimeter wrench and socket and tighten down the lower shock bolt. Moving on to the lower-shock bolt on the front of the truck, grab a 21-millimeter wrench and a 24-millimeter socket and get this tightened down. Moving on to our upper control arms on the front, we want an 18 and a 21-millimeter. We're gonna tighten these down now that the truck has had a chance to sit on the ground.So, with our lift kit complete, we decided to grab some wheels and tires for you guys just to check out different sizes. We have some 35s here, and we can confirm on the truck that it does not rub lock to lock, which is great. ReadyLIFT also notes that a 37 will fit as well. You may need some minor modifications to your wheel well liners just so you don't rub at full lock. But, as far as the 35s go, we can confirm fitment. And I think this definitely completes the look of your truck.All right, so that is gonna do it for the review and install of our ReadyLIFT 4-inch SST lift kit. Remember, for all things RAM, keep it at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Ramp up Your Lift. Raise your RAM for better handling and off-road capability by installing ReadyLIFT 4 in. SST Lift Kit. ReadyLift designed this kit to raise your truck by 3.5" lift. It does this by using lift blocks, control arms, and strut extensions. What’s more, tis kit delivers a balanced out lifting force that provides the ground clearance needed for optimal performance.
Kit Components. ReadyLIFT 4 in. SST Lift Kit includes billet aluminum strut extensions and blocks, strut spacers, a coil spring spacer, and torsion bar keys. It similarly includes tubular stainless steel upper control arms that provide the much-needed lift.
Durable Construction. All components of this lift kit are made from premium quality components. Its strut spacers and extensions are made from tough aluminum. The upper control arms are built from tubular steel. This guarantees long-term service and strength. A powder coat finish was included for rust and corrosion prevention.
Straightforward Installation. ReadyLIFT 4 in. SST Lift Kit is precision-built to replace your stock lift kit. Therefore, installation is a simple bolt-on process that doesn’t require cutting or modifications. Installation lasts 4 hours and requires considerable mechanical skill.
Warranty. ReadyLIFT provides a limited lifetime warranty against defects in workmanship and materials.
Application. ReadyLIFT 4 in. SST Lift Kit fits 2009-2018 4WD Dodge RAM 1500 Models with out Air Ride.
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Fitment: 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 4 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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