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RedRock Cold Air Intake (03-08 5.7L RAM 1500)

Item R106954
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Ship to: Ashburn - 20149
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      Video Review & Installation

      What's up, guys and gals? Travis from americantrucks.com and today we're checking out one of the most popular mods that everybody likes to throw on their trucks and that's a cold air intake like this one. Now this is the SR Performance Cold Air Intake fitting the '03 to '08 HEMI equipped RAM 1500 and this is gonna be the intake that you should consider if you're looking for a nice, affordable, entry level option, something that's gonna save you a ton of cash because this is actually currently the most affordable option on the site. Most of the other options come in at around the $200 price point or more. This thing currently comes in just over the $100 price point, so that's pretty nice.Now there are a ton of different options to consider on the site and price is just one factor, so I like to make it a little easier on you and I like to categorize cold air intakes into two subcategories. You have closed element designs, kind of like the factory intake with that closed box with the paper element completely concealed inside and then you have the open element designs like this one. Open element designs are more common. They're overall more popular and that's for a simple reason. Generally speaking, they look a little bit better, right? Closed element designs, everything's kinda tucked away and hidden out of sight, and like I said, that factory intake looks a little boring. Some of the other closed element options have some cool Plexiglas windows or things like that but they're gonna be a lot more expensive than this one. This one's got a very old school simplistic design, polished intake tube, looks like fabricated sheet metal, kinda looks like a speed shop job which I'm a fan of and we're also ditching that closed box here in favor of a nice, little heat shield. It's got a nice black painted finish on it here. We also include some weather stripping up top to help insulate it. You've got the liner on the hood so when the hood is closed, this thing's actually pretty well insulated. The high flow filter in here is also washable and reusable by the way. Safe to say it's gonna flow a lot more air into the intake manifold, especially at low RPMs and that's where those paper elements kinda suffer. So overall, you're gonna feel better throttle response. You might get some better horsepower and torque as well. I'm gonna guess somewhere around high single digit, maybe low double digit gains.Now this is a no tune required intake, so you don't have to throw a tune on your truck. That obviously drives up the cost and the time, so it's nice to get some performance by just bolting this thing on and saying that you're all done. Now how easy is it to install? Well, it's pretty straightforward, guys. You do have to remove the fender liner down here in order to remove the factory air box mounting tray so that kinda adds a little bit of time, but overall, this is a bolt-on job and we're not really permanently modifying anything on the truck. You really need a couple of sockets and maybe a hand ratchet. So I'm still gonna give the install a pretty simple one out of three wrenches on the old difficulty meter. It'll probably take you maybe an hour or two to get this thing done start to finish.Now even though this is the most affordable option, is it perfect? Well, honestly, guys, no. There are gonna be some minor things in here that you're gonna have to play around with a little bit. It is a little bit of a squeeze to get the filter in place. Some of the rubber grommets that you have to install in the intake tube can also be a little bit of a pain, but it's not anything that's gonna kill the job and even if you don't have a ton of experience, it's just gonna take a little bit more time to get this thing fitting right and looking right. It does go without saying, guys, aluminum is a pretty soft material. It is definitely a good choice for an intake like this because aluminum does a pretty good job of getting rid of all that heat relatively quickly so you don't heat soak that air going into the motor but it does scratch pretty easily and you can kinda see that on here. That's not a huge deal. You don't have to worry about rust or corrosion since it is aluminum. All the band clamps are also made out of stainless steel so that shouldn't be a huge concern. If you do wanna clean this thing up from time to time, just throw some mag polish on there. Maybe get a little orbital buffer. It should clean right up and it should look brand new. So overall, it does look really good. It's not perfect but it's still functional, still looks good overall and you'll get better performance for the lowest price possible. So consider the SR Performance a little bit more. If you decide you like this option, you like the price, come back in just a little bit. I'm gonna show you how to get this thing installed, give you little tips and tricks to make it a little bit easier. I'm gonna show you the entire install step by step.Okay, to install our intake, pretty simple setup here. Definitely recommend having a Philips head and a flathead screwdriver. You'll also need a standard drive ratchet with a couple of metric sockets including an 8, a 10 and a 13. They can be shallow or deep. I actually recommend shallow with an extension. And a swivel socket's also gonna come in very handy especially if you're using an impact gun which is optional, of course. You also need a large pair of pliers to get the factory breather hose off and you'll need a pair of snips to trim some of the weather stripping.All right. So once you've got all your tools out, the first thing you wanna do is grab your 8-mil socket. Obviously, I'm suing an impact gun here and I have a really long extension. That's just because I don't like crawling in there. If you do wanna get up close and personal, you can use a regular hand ratchet but the first thing we're gonna do is disconnect our factory air box and our factory intake tube. We have to loosen up some of those band clamps so we can pull both of those assemblies out. That's gonna get us started.All right. So the first clamp we're gonna be loosening up here is located just behind this breather hose securing the factory tube to this plenum right here, so just go ahead and loosen him up.Okay. We're almost ready to remove the top part of the air box and the intake tube. First, we have to disconnect the breather hose. Just pressed onto a little fitting on the end of the box here, so just go ahead and grab on that and gently twist it to remove it.Okay, now we're finally ready to remove the first part of our intake system. We're gonna remove our tube and the top of our air box as one piece. In order to do that, you have to separate the top of the air box from the bottom half. Just go ahead and pop those three clips out. Gently pull on it to kinda unseat it. Once you've done that, pull on the intake tube to pull it away from the plenum as well while we loosen up that clamp. And once you've done so, you can remove this as one piece. Go ahead and grab the air filter as well while you're at it.All right. Once you've removed the top half of the air box and the factory paper element filter, you can also remove the bottom half here. It's held onto this mounting plate with a couple of rubber grommets. Just gently pull up on it to release it.All right. Once you have the factory air box removed, you can start tackling the mounting bracket or plastic tray or whatever you wanna call it here. It's secured with 4 13-millimeter bolts. You've got two on either side up here. The other two are located inside the fender. We have to remove the liner, but we'll get to that in just a second. For now, just go ahead and pull these two bolts up top out.Okay. Next, we're gonna remove our inner fender liner here. It's held on with a couple of these flange screws that have 8-millimeter heads, so you can get away with using that same 8-mil socket. The instructions call out that there are eight fasteners holding the fender liner. I only count five, so let's pull these five screws out and see where that gets us.Some of these are gonna be probably pretty rusty, so just take your time with it.Okay, now there should be three up top here. This is an '07 truck by the way. Depending on your model year, this might vary here.All right, then we have one more here towards the back of the fender liner above the frame rail.Okay. Our fender liner is about to come out here. It's pretty much loose. If you do have fender flares installed on your RAM, some of the hardware might actually be holding the liner in as well. That is the case with ours here, so I just have to remove this little Philips head screw. This thing should be ready to come out.Okay, our fender liner's now finally ready to be removed. Before you remove yours, double check you don't have any other fasteners, especially if you have flairs installed. But basically, you have to kinda push the fender liner in towards the truck so that it comes away from the inside lip here. And it'll kinda fall down and you can pull it out as one piece.All right. We have our fender liner removed. Now we've exposed our engine bay here. You could see that plastic bracket that was holding our air box in place. We have 2 13-millimeter bolts holding it to the inside of the fender here. Obviously, these bolts are probably gonna be pretty rusted out. They're supposed to be 13-millimeter. This one's actually so rusted it kinda bulges up to a 14-mil. Let's just go ahead and remove these. I also sprayed this with some PB Blaster as well.Try and work some of that rust off here and see if we can step it back down to a 13.All right. Let's remove this last bolt here. I'm gonna support this little bracket as I'm doing this because it should fall out of the truck once this bolt's removed.All right. Next, we're gonna start tackling all the stuff up here near our throttle body. We have to remove this plenum right here, our little HEMI plenum thing. First, we're gonna disconnect our intake temperature sensor. It's this little gray tab here. Squeeze on the tab with your thumb and remove it like so. And then you also have these bolts securing the plenum on top of the engine here, so you'll need a 10-mil socket. It's also helpful to have an extension. Go ahead and remove this first bolt here.It should loosen that up. Go ahead and remove that bolt. It's kinda held in with a little metal sleeve here. There's also a small rubber grommet. That can probably stay on there.All right, there's one more bolt securing our plenum here just behind the oil cap and it's the same 10-mil head, so go and use that same 10-mil socket.All right. With both of those bolts removed you just have to gently kinda pull on the plenum here to separate it from the throttle body. You can pull it up and out of the engine bay.All right. Since our new intake is actually gonna be connecting directly to the inlet on the throttle body, you can remove this rubber O ring that's used to seal up the factory one.All right. So we got the factory intake system removed. We do have to do a little bit of work to this thing. We do have to swap over that intake temperature sensor over to our new intake tube and I'll show you guys that in a second. I did wanna give you a nice comparison between the two because we're really changing up the configuration and more importantly, we're changing up how this thing looks underneath the hood and honestly that's one of the big things, what I like about the SR Performance system. We're ditching all this ugly plastic. We got that closed box that hides that crappy paper element filter inside of there. Swapping all that stuff out for this nice heat shield. This is stainless steel with black powder coat on top, so it looks good but it's also gonna last a long time. Powder coat's a very strong material. It's actually baked on. It's not just a painted finish, so you won't have any issues with this thing rusting or corroding or anything like that. And again, we're getting rid of that paper filter in favor of the high flow conical filter here. This is also a washable and reusable filter by the way. Normally you do have to replace these every few thousand miles and they can actually get a little bit expensive especially if you do it at the dealership. That's not gonna be the case here. These are reusable filters as long as you keep on top of them. They can last up to 100,000 miles without sacrificing maximum efficiency. You just gotta throw some detergent and some water on there, let it dry off, throw it back in and you're good to go. And then obviously nice polished aluminum here. Looks a lot better than this ugly resonator box. So now that we have a nice comparison out of the way, let's go ahead and pull that intake temperature sensor out of our resonator box. All you have to do is kinda gently grab the sensor. You wanna rotate it counterclockwise and that should pop it out of here. It might be a little tight so you wanna take your time with this. There's a plastic fitting. You don't wanna break this thing.All right. So once you've removed the temperature sensor you can discard the factory resonator. You also have to pull this rubber O ring off of here because we don't need that actually because our new rubber grommet's gonna seal this up just fine. So I just have a small flathead screwdriver here to pry this guy off.All right. Once you've removed that rubber O ring, you can press it into the new intake tube. They provide this little rubber grommet here and guys, this grommet's a real pain here so it kinda helps to spray it up, make it a little bit easier. Just gotta press it in place gently and twist it as you do so.All right, so once you've got the intake temperature sensor inside the intake tube, you can set that aside. Now we're gonna be installing this weather stripping here on the inside of the access hole for the intake tube. This isn't really meant to insulate it so much, but it's meant to kind of protect the intake tube because it can rub along the inside of here. This comes as one long piece in the kit, but I'll make it easy for you guys. You wanna cut this to exactly 18 inches. That's how long you need to actually cover up this little access hole here.Now this stuff can also come in the kit kind of wound up and it can be a little bit of a pain trying to get it unfurled and trying to get it in here. So if you're running into issues with this thing fighting you, you can actually just set it outside in the sun for a few minutes or you can actually just throw it in some hot water as well for about a minute or two. That'll make it a lot more pliable and it'll make it easier for you to install this.Okay, we're almost done with the heat shield here. Now we're gonna install this little mount here. This little rubber mount with two studs on either end. It's gonna secure to the heat shield using one of the provided fender washers in the kit as well as one of the 13-millimeter nylon locking nuts. Let's go ahead and secure that on the bottom of the heat shield and this is gonna be used to secure our actual intake tube once we actually bolt it in place.Okay. We're finally ready to throw our heat shield in place. Let's go ahead, meet me over the engine bay. They do provide some weather stripping on top here but we're actually gonna wait to see where exactly we want all that stuff resting because once the hood is down, it can actually be a pretty tight fit here. So we're gonna make the best use of what we have, so let's go ahead and get this thing installed.All right. So when we get ready to throw our heat shield in place, we have to remove one more piece of hardware. I did skip this step earlier because we don't wanna remove hardware that we don't have to until it's time. And this is a support piece here. This is a radiator support. This bolt right here is gonna be used to secure part of our heat shield. So you wanna come in here with a 13-mil socket and go ahead and remove this bolt. You can see it is an incredibly small space because we have our coolant reservoir right here. So you'll probably need a quarter inch drive ratchet if you're using an actual ratchet. Otherwise I recommend using a regular ratcheting wrench and just go ahead and get it hand loose because you might end up catching your tooling stuck in here. So go ahead and get this out by hand. And while we're on this topic here, go ahead and grab the other 13-millimeter bolt that looks like this. We removed two more of these on the inside of the fender.Okay, now that we have that bolt removed from the radiator support, we can now get our heat shield set up and in place. Let's go ahead and line up these two top tabs. You've got one on this side here. It's gonna go back into the fender and the other tab's gonna mount on the radiator support. I'm gonna first get one of the bolts from the original air box tray in place. Line these holes up. You might have to push on the heat shield a little bit. That's to be expected.And once you have him hand threaded a little bit you can go ahead and drive him home. Again 13-mil socket for both of these bolts up top.Okay, now when you go to get that second bolt in place obviously this is an incredibly small space to try and be working and I can't even get my hands in here, I'm not the biggest guy ever. So unless you have a four year old handy you're gonna wanna grab a quarter inch socket for this again with an extension. This can kinda help you squeeze this thing between the coolant reservoirs. Make sure you keep the hand on this bolt while you're doing this. Go ahead and get it threaded in there. If you do lose this bolt, it's liable to fall down in between the radiator and the coolant reservoir right on top of the frame rail. So if you lose this thing, definitely check under there.Okay. We got our two bolts secured up top. Now we're gonna go ahead and do the same thing here on the bottom and again this is one of those larger bolts that we exposed when we removed our fender liner. So you wanna kinda pull on the heat shield a little bit till you get it hand threaded just a couple of turns and then we'll drive this home. And again, this is a 13-millimeter socket.All right, our heat shield is secured. Now we're ready to start installing the rest of our intake system. So next we're gonna install the rubber coupler here, this little adapter. That's gonna mate our new intake tube to our throttle body. Same 8-millimeter band clamps here and if you're using a power tool probably want an impact swivel socket. You can get away with using a regular hand ratchet swivel though as well. Get him nice and tight.All right. With that rubber coupler in place now we can start installing our intake tube. You do have to feed the intake tube, the throttle body side of the tube rather through the heat shield because the large bracket on the other end doesn't allow it to cross through. You might notice here this thing's getting a little scratched up as well. That's okay, guys. Aluminum is a pretty soft material. We can polish that up when we're all done here. But you just wanna kinda take your time, be careful with this thing. You don't wanna press it up against the paint on the fender or anything like that. You also wanna try and get the bracket on the air box side of the intake tube to be resting on that studded grommet we installed earlier and then once you've got all that lined up, it's just the matter of coming back over to the throttle body and pushing the intake tube into the rubber grommet.All right. Once you've got the intake tube secured here, go ahead and tighten down that second band clamp.All right. We've got our intake tube in place and obviously, guys, yes. This thing did get a little scratched up. Again, aluminum is a soft material. Take some aluminum polish to it with an orbital buffer. It'll clean up. It'll look like new. We also have to address our intake temperature sensor here. That did fall out. Not a huge problem. We'll get that back in place in just a second. But while we're over here we're gonna replace our breather hose. So it has a pressure clamp securing it to the fill neck. Just go ahead and grab some large pliers here and just gently apply some pressure to this clamp in order to unseat it. Gently pull on the tube in order to release it completely. Once you've done so, go ahead and grab the new breather hose provided in the kit. You wanna cut it to 10 inches if you haven't already. Go ahead and secure it to one side. Make sure you have these small band clamps on here as well. Make sure it's seated all the way. Get it nice and flush or as much as you can at least. And you'll just need a flathead screwdriver to tighten these guys down.All right. Now let's go ahead and get that intake temperature sensor back in place here since it did fall out. All right, once you've got the sensor back in place all you gotta do is reconnect it to the wiring harness.All right. Now everything we're gonna be doing here centers on the new heat shield and tube. So first we're gonna install our new filter before we tighten down the tube to that little support grommet here. Make sure you have that last band clamp on the end of the filter as well. This is a little bit of a squeeze, guys. You do have to come up from the bottom unfortunately because it's kind of too much of a fit here. You'll actually crush the filter because of some of the lines right here on the fender. So just come up through the bottom and I left the intake tube loose because I wanna move it around a little bit to try and get this thing seated as best I can.Now once you've managed to squeeze the filter in place, go ahead and tighten down that last clamp. Same 8-mil clamp as the others.All right, we're almost wrapped up here. Next, we're gonna install the hardware to secure the intake tube. Once you've got that on there, go ahead and tighten down the nyloc nut here. It's a 13-mil nut just like the others. And this is a really, really small space. They didn't leave us a lot of room in here. So you have to do this with a hand ratchet. And the rubber grommet unfortunately likes to flex as you're tightening this down as you can see. So you're gonna have to go at this for a little while unfortunately.All right, guys. Everything is now secured here with the heat shield and the tube and our filter. Now we're gonna install our weather stripping. Before you guys start putting this on and cutting it though, you wanna close the hood because there's actually a liner on the hood. It should line up with this little pocket here inside the heat shield. Once you verify, you can close the hood okay, you can start installing your weather stripping here. We're just gonna keep it as one piece and I like to go from the side here of the shock for the hood, come around the corner like so and you just wanna come up to the edge of this little divot right here.The reason we waited to do this last is because having the heat shield secured also makes getting this stuff pressed down a lot easier. Go ahead and cut it at that first notch here.There are little metal tabs inside of the weather stripping by the way so if you do catch one with your snips just move it a little bit to the side. And go ahead and install the rest of it on the other side here.All right. So once you got the intake in place, before you do anything else I strongly recommend you double-check fitment with the hood, make sure the liner can come down with the weather stripping on here and then I also do a functions check. Go ahead throw the key in the ignition real quick, turn it over, give it a good rev or two, make sure you don't have any lean codes or check engine lights or anything like that. Then you can throw the fender liner back in place, throw all the fasteners back in there and that'll wrap up this very easy install. That'll also wrap up my quick review of the SR Performance Cold Air Intake fitting your '03 to '08 HEMI equipped RAM 1500. Be sure to check it out more on the site and for all things RAM, keep it right here at americantrucks.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Improves Airflow for More Power
      • Increases Throttle Response and Performance
      • Polished Aluminum Intake Tube
      • Reusable High Flow Air Filter
      • Simple Bolt-On Installation
      • No Computer Re-Tune Required
      • Not CARB Certified
      • Fits 2003-2008 5.7L HEMI V8 RAM 1500 Models

      Description

      Better Flow for More Power. An RedRock 4x4 Cold Air Intake is a great way to improve the power and performance of your 2003-2008 5.7L HEMI V8 RAM 1500. By replacing your RAM's restrictive factory intake with a high flow filter assembly you will see and feel a noticeable increase in rear wheel horsepower and torque. This RedRock 4x4 Intake not only improves airflow for an increase in power, but it will also add a show winning appearance to the engine bay with its brightly polished aluminum intake tube.

      No Tune Required. RedRock 4x4 engineered their Cold Air Intake to improve the performance of your V8 RAM without the need of reprogramming your computer. By utilizing flow dynamics, this Intake will increase power using the original factory tune. Even though a re-tune is not required for operation, AmericanMuscle recommends a custom tune to reprogram the vehicles computer (ECU) to get the best possible performance from this Cold Air Intake.

      Reusable Air Filter. The included high flow air filter effectively filters out power robbing particles with its multi layer design. The specially treated media creates a sticky surface to capture microscopic contaminants before they can enter your RAM's engine and do harm. Seeing that the filter is reusable there is no need to buy a new filter every few thousand miles. You can just clean the filter, re-oil it, and reinstall - saving yourself money in the long haul.

      Simple Bolt-on Installation. RedRock 4x4 designed their Cold Air Intake kit to be a direct bolt-on replacement. With no special tools or extra modifications required installation can be completed in under an hour. All parts and detailed instructions are included.

      Not CARB Certified. This RedRock 4x4 Cold Air Intake is not CARB certified, therefore it is not legal for use in California or other states adopting California emission standards. Not legal for use on pollution controlled motor vehicles; intended for off road use only.

      Application. This RedRock 4x4 Polished Cold Air Intake System is specifically designed to fit the 2003-2008 RAM models equipped with the 5.7L HEMI V8 engine.

      RedRock 4x4

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      Details

      RedRock R106954

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      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Intake Tube
      • (1) Heat Shield
      • (1) Air Filter
      • (3) Clamps
      • (2) Couplers
      • (1) Hose
      • (1) Edge Guard
      4.4

      Customer Reviews (500+)

        Questions & Answers

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        Will It Fit My Ram 1500

        • 5.7L V8 - 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, 08

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