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S&B Cold Air Intake with Oiled Cleanable Cotton Filter (19-24 6.4L RAM 2500)

Item HR4879
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$349.00 (each)

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Ship to: Ashburn - 20149
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      Product Videos

      Justin: Hey, what's up, everybody? I'm Justin with americantrucks.com. And today, we're taking a closer look at and installing the S&B Cold Air with the Reusable Oiled Filter, available for all 2019 and newer 6.4-powered RAM 2500s. Now, the S&B that we have on the table today would be an awesome choice for the gasser owners looking for one of the highest-rated intakes, currently available on the site at a very affordable price point, to help provide a little bit more power and throttle response, along with a more modified underhood appearance. Now, the S&B will feature a durable ABS plastic build, reusable oiled filter, sealed enclosure, and will not require the use of any custom or canned tuning.So some of your big features here are the S&B, and I mean big literally, will be the very nice molded sealed enclosure here, guys, with the included plexiglass window to allow you to keep an eye on quite possibly the largest filter in the category for your 6.4 gasser powered HD at home. Now, when you're looking to help isolate the intake, and more specifically that filter from the hot engine bay air, a sealed enclosure like this really is the only way to roll. Heat is the enemy of performance and something like this, again, will be your best bet at keeping that hot air from entering the filter, and keeping your performance up at the same time. Now, this kit, getting back to that filter, does include one of the S&B signature oiled filters here.Traditionally, an oiled filter will flow a little bit better than a dry option while only needing minor maintenance every 100,000 miles or so before a good cleaning, and re-oiling is recommended. And that is according to the gang over at S&B. Now, if you prefer not to mess with any of this, the re-oiling or anything like that, S&B does offer a different kit with a dry filter instead, and it will offer similar performance at the end of the day. Now, ultimately if you do go with the oiled option here, S&B claims that airflow should improve by nearly 37%, which in turn should lead to pretty solid power gains, and better throttle response on your V8-powered HD. Again, all without needing any additional maintenance.But now, let's talk a little bit more about your construction here, guys. We kind of talked a little bit about this earlier, but I did want to come back to the airbox. It is ginormous, and done so in a very high-quality way. Molded airbox here with the plastics, going to be very good at reducing heat soak, I should say, and again, is home to one of the largest filters here in the category. Now, topping off the airbox will be the S&B etched plexiglass window here. That's going to be crucial in helping owners keep an eye on their filter quality over the years. Just make sure everything's nice and clean and does not need any additional maintenance. Now, finally, guys, the S&B kit, they do include all of the hardware, of course, everything needed for a relatively easy install.Now, price point for the S&B is gonna come in or around that $400 mark here, guys, which is honestly kind of the middle of the pack when looking at other intakes on the site for your HD. You can certainly go with more budget-friendly options from some of your more budget-friendly companies, if you will, but other options such as K&N, for instance, will round out maybe the higher end of the spectrum as well. A lot to check out in this category from budget-friendly to expensive with the S&Bs kind of landing in the middle. If you wanna get a better sense of what the category looks like, talk more about your dry versus your oiled filters, open versus sealed enclosures, definitely check out the rest of our options here at AT because there is a lot to choose from. But if you wanted to go with a nice sealed enclosure with an oiled filter for not a ton of dough, listen, I know 400 bucks isn't exactly cheap at the end of the day, but I do think this is a really, really well-made kit for the money.All right, now, let's shift our focus over to the installation. And site is gonna correctly call this a 1 out of 3 wrenches on the difficulty meter, taking you at least 30 minutes to complete from start to finish, maybe a little bit more if this is your first time doing any wrenching on your RAM at home. But now, we're gonna give you a little bit more insight on how the install might go down in the garage or driveway. So check out this detailed walkthrough from an AT customer now.Man: So part of the instructions is that it says that I need a flathead screwdriver, a 10 and 11-millimeter wrench or socket with an extension possible. So what I've done is I've gotten out both of those. And then at the end, I'll show you which ones that I've actually used and which one is easier. And also I have a 5/16s nut driver. And what that'll be used for is that'll be used for the hose clamps. So like I said, what I've already done is I've laid out all of the parts on the table, and I've inventoried them. I've laid them out from A, B, C, all the way through the instructions. And I verified that I have everything. So, now, what we're going to do is we're going to get ready to dive into the truck. And we're going to go through it step by step, following the instructions. And you can see exactly how it gets installed under our pickup truck.So the very first thing in the instructions. It tells us to take the 10-millimeter socket, and what we're going to do is we're going to disconnect the negative battery terminal cable. And what that does is that adds a layer of safety, so that we don't short circuit the truck or we don't hurt ourselves while we're working on this. So as we come over here, the battery is going to be right here. We're going to take that. Always disconnect the negative. Make sure you don't drop the nut, and when you disconnect it, make sure that the cable is back away from the battery so that it doesn't reconnect itself. I always put the nut back onto the battery so that I don't lose it. And then again just double-check to make sure that battery cable is going to stay away.All right, so, now, power is disconnected from the vehicle, so, what we're going to do is, we're going to look at the air scoop is fastened right here, and it's held in by these little plastic rivets. It's very easy, if you take a look there's a little notch into the side of those, and in that little notch, you just take your screwdriver you pop it. Just give it a little twist, be sure you're gentle with it. Once it comes up a little bit, you can grab it with your finger. Don't pull it too hard or you're gonna break it. Just gonna go through, and we're gonna gently pop all of these off.Now, one of the things that S&B recommends as part of their toolkit is a step stool. What I will tell you is that I'm 6 foot 2 inches, and I will need a step stool to get up in here. So I definitely recommend that. It's a lot easier than trying to stand on the bumper. I just got a little two-step step stool that the wife and I keep in the house, and that'll work just fine for what we're doing. Once the center pin is out, you can go through, pop the rest of these out. What happens is that center pin will go in there, and it swells these up, so it keeps these in place. Now, that that center pin's out, these pop right out of there. As you can see, there's not much to it. It's pretty easy. Anytime that I'm working on project like this, it's always good to have a table nearby so you can put all your parts on it. Then once you reassemble everything, the goal is not to have any parts left over. Now, that I've taken out all of those pins, this should pull out of there.Okay. There are two all the way here in the back. So we need to make sure that we get these two, they're back in here. There, now, that we've got those out, Okay, so what it was is a little hesitation near popping that off. You always wanna be gentle because you never know what's really holding it, because there's a foam seal on the bottom of this, it was not glued to this, but it was stuck to it a little bit. So very gently, just put your hand underneath, give it a little pop, the whole thing pops right off. We're going to remove the air scoop. So that's gonna require a 10-millimeter socket and a wrench. So taking a look at that, the wrench is not the tool for this. You will need the 10-millimeter socket. There are two bolts on this, one on each side. There's one here, then there's one opposing over here. Make sure you keep a good hold of that, so you don't drop it down into the engine. And we're going to take this one.So, next thing, it has us do, has us lift this up. Okay, there we go. So this is held together to this by these two little notches right here. So if you take that, pull this up a little bit, those will pop right off. Now, we're able to remove that scoop and get it out of our way. Now, the next thing it tells us to do is to remove the factory cover. So what we're gonna be doing is, we're going to be removing this cover here. So what it tells us to do is pull up, pull forward. You can hear that snap as it comes out of those clips. Pull forward. And the cover comes right off. Okay, so, now, it has us disconnect in the crankcase vent tube. Which will be this tube here. It's on the backside of this assembly. It does have some wires attached to it. It's very simple to undo that. There's a little knob right here. Push down on that, that clamp will open up. So you can move those wires right out of your way. Come in here. Give that rubber tube up. I'm twisting it, I'm hoping that you'll reverse it. There we go.Right up here at the throttle body. This tube right here is going to come apart from this black piece here. Again, just give it a twist. It's dry rubber on dry plastic. It's going to fight you a little bit, but not too bad. Just gently twist it. It'll come off. Good. So, next, we're gonna remove the sensors. So this here is the sensor. So it says to twist it counterclockwise, and then pull it up. There you go, the sensor is out. Just be very careful with that. You can see down inside of there, there's a little sensor. We don't want to bend that. We want to make sure that we're saving that for later, and everything is good with it. Next, we're gonna remove these hose clamps that are holding all of this assembly together. So this is where I'll use my 5/16s nut driver. I'm going to go down in here and grab a hold of this clamp. Loosen that up. Get it good and loose, and we have breaks free all the way around. Okay. Let's see, that part. That part's loosened up. Next thing, it's asked us to do is using the panel popper removal, panel rivets securing the electrical harness to the air box.That little fella has a really good grip on it. So what it is, is a flat piece of plastic inside of this. There's some metal teeth in there to grab a hold of that plastic. So you just gotta pop that apart a little bit. It'll come out. Again, I'm gonna hang it over top of this tube so that this sensor is not touching anything. Doesn't matter if it touches something, but I just want to make sure it doesn't get damaged. Okay, so, now, what it is, is this entire assembly is free. I do have to break free the hose from the throttle body, as you're looking down on it, you can see that down in here, this air box is held onto the vehicle by these rubber grommets and these pins. If we lift it up off the top of those pins... And, now, the challenge is gonna be getting this off the throttle body. So mine seems to be stuck. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to take this other clamp off from where the tube and the box meet.Usually, they're not stuck as hard which I was correct on that. And that will allow me to get a different leverage on It's popping it. The rubber seal is kind of stuck on there. As you can see, the clamp is loose. There we go. Okay. So took me a little pushing, and I don't know if you could hear it or not, but the rubber popped free from the aluminum housing from the throttle body. What that does now, that allows me to take the whole box out of the assembly because now your throttle body is open. So make sure that we don't get any parts down in here or any debris because that's what goes right into your engine. So we want to make sure we keep that clean. So pay attention to that.Yes, we're going to install the silicone seal onto the air box. So the seal? There's a little ledge down here. Hope you can see that so that little ledge right here is going to go into this groove, and so we're going to pop that into that groove, make sure that the seal and the box are lined up in the same shape. So that's popped down into there, there we go. Make sure it's popped into that groove really nice, all the way around, and the next step, that they tell us we're gonna install the silicone seal onto the air box. We have the lip on here. It's gonna go with the little lip going into the box. Same thing, start it on one side, work your way around. I have a little bubble up here, but you just gotta twist it, pop it in little by little. And that last spot seems like it always fights you. Then pops right in. There we go. Seal's installed. Okay, the very next step is we're installing this tube onto the box. So that is just a matter of snapping that in. Oh, same thing. Start on one side. There is room to twist this. It's not fastened in any way. It's just held in by the seal, so that once you get into the vehicle, you can line it better.Okay. Next thing is, is this is for the air sensor. This is one that has, like, a little key lock. If you can see it, it's going to go into this little key lock here to match that. Pop that in there. Really is that simple. Okay, next thing it calls for is this tube, little tapered tube here or two-step tube. The very first section, the bigger section, will go on to the tube that we just installed. And this is going to be held down by the clamps. This is where you'll take your 5/16s nut driver Let's open that up. So there's two sizes to this. The bigger one, of course, goes on the bigger section. We're going to take that one. Now, what I would recommend is that we don't tighten it down until we're actually ready. One thing that I always like to do, and maybe it's my pet peeve, I always like to make sure the clamps are pointed in the same direction, and roughly in the same location. And what that does is that, you know, if you ever have to get in there to do an uninstall, or you have to go in there and do some maintenance, everything's in the same spot, and you're not chasing the hose clamp around the circle, trying to figure out where it is.So we're going back, we're installing the next step, which is this bracket. So this bracket is threaded, has a couple of inserts there. You got the nut and the bolt reach up inside, bolt's going to come through, and we'll get it tightened down onto or we'll get it installed into that. Make sure you always finger start them. These seem to be pretty easy to finger-start. The reason you never mechanically start them is that if you get it cross-threaded, it could destroy the bolt or the nut. You don't want to do that. So it's better off just finger-starting them then going in with your ratchet or your wrench afterwards, and tighten it down. That way you're ensuring you're not cross-threading it. I'm gonna snug them up with my finger. Turn that around. So that one there will be the 11-millimeter socket. Simple, just a ratchet. Take a look down inside of there. You can see those bolts. Just real quick, give them a little snug with your ratchet. I'm not going to tighten them down really heavy yet just in case I have to adjust that when it gets to the truck here in a few minutes.One thing that I did like about this installation is the fact that it comes with this cover. When it's hot outside what you really want to do is you want to have this on that way it's only sucking in the cool air from in front of the vehicle and not out of the engine compartment. So because we are going into our winter months here in Georgia what I'm going to do is I'm going to leave this one off, and come next spring next summer I will be installing that as our temperatures get higher.So the next thing that we got to do we have to install some grommets. The first one will go into this piece here. Just a matter of again, starting on one side, pushing it, it'll pop right in there. Same with the next hole. The third one goes into this bracket that we just installed. Give it a little twist if you have to. Get it down in there. So here our box is assembled as far as we can go at the moment. Again, we don't have anything that's super tight. Everything looks like it's ready to go. If you look down inside of the box, you can see the grommets that you just installed. Take a look at them, make sure that it's all the way popped out. I have one that the seal here was showing a little flat spot. What I do is just give them a little twist, and that'll seal the rest of the way in. So that way you ensure that that's all the way in, it's not going to pop out on you later. What I'm doing is I'm taking the original, the factory air scoop. This is the one that we took out earlier. And this is now going to attach to the scoop. You'll see that that rubber seal It's going to fit nice and tight on there. It's going to lock that in. According to the install instructions, we're now ready to drop this into the truck.So these grommets are going to line up with the ones we did earlier. And again, I think maybe get that of the way. That is a nice smokey fit. Makes it a challenge to get on. Same time proves it's going to have a good seal. All right, now, we're going to drop this in. This is what it's going to start looking like. And like I said, you know, we have a lot of options here, as far as moving things. So that's why it's so important not to tighten anything up yet. Now, let me bring this back out so I can give you a better view. So the three grommets that we just installed, if you take a look down inside of here, so one's gonna go onto here. The other one will go on to this pin. And then the last one goes up into here. So those would be the three points that that box goes into. So we're gonna slowly drop that in. We gotta make sure that the throttle body tube is lining up. I'll tell you what, I'm gonna remove the factory air scoop at the moment because it is in my way. Let's see how... This part's right in there. Yeah. Okay. There we go.So what I just discovered is that if you kind of tilt this up a little bit, kind of look underneath, you can align them holes a little bit better. Once you get two of them aligned, the third one pops right in there. There you go, it's set down in. All right, now, come around to the side here. Take a look with me. And again, with the factory air out of the way, what you'll see is the throttle body hose that I've got to hook up. That's this one right here. And again, like I said in the beginning, we're able to turn this. That's a great thing because now I can line it up. I can twist it where I need it, where it fits the best.I'm going to drop that in there and give it a little wiggle. I'm gonna reach my hand down in there. Again, make sure it's nice and clean so that you don't get anything in the throttle body. I may have tightened it up just a little bit too much, so where it attatches the throttle boddy, to give it some flex, so I I'll loosen that up a little bit. There it goes, popped right down in. Again, you can see this hose here now lines right up with the S&B part, give it a couple wiggles, peel around the bottom, make sure it's slid in all the way. There we go. That part's in. Now, I want to take the factory, air scoop back. And I know the instructions say to put it on before, but For me, it was a lot easier just to do that. I took that off. I was able to put that in, it's out of my way. But now, I can bring this in, and give it a few wiggles. Get it lined up for the original factory holes.So, now, that we have that lined up, we're going to take the 5/16s nut driver. We're going to tighten up these clamps. Now, what I say is that, especially on a clamps like these, tighten them up just enough so that you see the rubber move, but you don't want it squishing out all over the place. You want a nice snug fit. Keep that airflow going, but you don't want it so tight that you're damaging the rubber either. Good and snug, there we go. That was the 10-millimeter sockets that you needed to do that. And these are the two that go right here. And again, highly recommend the ratchet extension to do that install. One thing I never do is I never tighten up a bolt until I have all the bolts in. So that's why I came back to that one. Double-check it. They're snug. They are not tight. Everything is good to go there.Okay, everything looks like it's fitting good. It looks like it's sealed good. These clamps are tight, hose is reinstalled. Okay, what I'm gonna do, I'm gonna install the air filter. Goes in here on this part that we installed earlier, which is now sticking through. So you'll be able to see that. The filter is going to go over top of this. Grab a hold of that, it really just pops on. So what I'm going to do is slide it on the top of that, then I'm going to let it go down. Going down, it should be able to push that onto... Oh, after I missed it. Take your 5/16s nut driver, loosen up the clamp. Silly me. It'll make that go-on a lot easier. Then once you loosen up the clamp, pops right on. There you go, your air filter's installed. I'm going to move that clamp around so that it'll always be easy to get at. And then I'm gonna snug that down. Same thing as before, tighten it so that, you know, it feels tight. You may start to see a little bit of rubber smoosh out, but just go until it's snug. Give the filter just a little tug. Feel all the way around it. It's on all the way around.Next thing that we gotta do is we've gotta reconnect the sensor. Again, be careful of this tip It is going to go in. It's gonna turn. There you go. It's locked in. This clamp right here, I'm gonna put it back around that tube. Lock that in. That keeps that wire from going down, chafing on anything that might be in the engine compartment. I definitely recommend that it routes behind this tube. And what that'll do is that'll keep that out of the way. All right. Just double checking to make sure nothing's loose down in there. Everything's looking good. Next thing I'm going to reinstall the engine cover before.Put in first, like what it was before. What it does is, see these two little tubes right here? Once you get it out, you'll look back inside of there, and you'll see that there's two grommets that it goes into. So what we're gonna do is we're gonna tilt it up, we're gonna slide it back into those grommets, and then drop it down. And then when we drop it down it's snapped into these two here and that's what holds all of this together.So remember, side to back, you'll feel it go in, get down. Best way to gauge it, oil cap lined up. There we go. Two little snaps. That means we cap in, there we go. Good. Next up is putting in the original factory, cowling cover back on. What you'll want to do is...what I do is, I slide in one end that goes in behind this fender. The other side goes in behind the fender also, but if you'll take this, you'll bend it just a little bit. It'll blend behind here easily, straightened out. Set right back down in. What you end up with is when we took all these pins out. So these are the ones that go into the cowling. Just really just snap them in. Put them all in there. And we can't forget, that there was two inside. We got that one. And we got this one here. That's the last of them. Then we take the other pins push them down inside, and what that does is that, spreads it. Locks all of it in place. They only go one way, so make sure that you're not forcing it extra hard. This is one of those things you don't have to be a brute at. Once you go, in through turn the right way.Next up is this gets a cover over top of this, what that does is that helps seal up the filter area, they keep the engine heat out, kind of, like, what we talked about on the side area. So I can demonstrate it better. Inside of the grommet, there's a groove The Lexan piece is going to install inside of this groove, and that's what's going to hold that there. Then this whole assembly will pop down into the box that we just assembled and put into the truck. So just like all the rest of the grommets, highly recommend you start at one end. Just work your way around. Don't try to force it all at one time because then it'll never work. But if you start at one side and you just keep going around the circle, there's this last little bit that we have to stretch. And what I did is I put my thumb underneath that to lift it up. I'll do the same over here, peel it back a little bit, snap it in over the edge. There we go. So this is the cover that we're going to put over top of the box. What we're going to do is we're going to install this cover.So just, like, with the rest of the rubber grommets, we start at one edge, we lock it into that groove, we just slowly work our way. There we go. Every thing is good and tight. You don't see any gaps, you don't feel any gaps. All right, last step of the puzzle. We're going to reconnect the battery. It's just the opposite of what we did before. Make sure you keep a hold of that nut. It's very easy to drop that down inside. That's the spark to get you. We hooked that up. Drop that cable down on. And again, this was the 10-millimeter socket. All right, you want to tighten it down, but don't torque it down. Don't put a lot of pressure on it.Justin: So, guys, if you are looking to help make your 2019 and newer 6.4 powered Gasser HD breathe a little bit easier, all while improving filtration and throttle response at the same time, then be sure to check out this Oiled System from S&B, right here at americantrucks.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Cold Air Intake
      • Features Oiled Cleanable Cotton Filter
      • Effectively Protects the Engine
      • Handles Temperatures Up to 400 Degrees Fahrenheit
      • Designed with Two Air Inlet Points
      • Ensures Airtight Seal
      • Snap-In Lid Design
      • Fits 2019-2024 6.4L RAM 2500s

      Description

      Durable Functional Design. The S&B Cold Air Intake is the perfect way to keep your engine running smoothly. It features an oiled, cleanable cotton filter that effectively protects the engine from harmful debris. The intake also handles temperatures up to 400 degrees Fahrenheit, making it a great choice for hot environments. Additionally, it comes with two air inlet points for a tight seal and superior performance.

      Easy to Install. The S&B Cold Air Intake with Oiled Cleanable Cotton Filter is a quick and easy way to boost your vehicle’s performance. The snap-in lid design means no modifications are required – it installs in minutes.

      Application. An S&B Cold Air Intake with Oiled Cleanable Cotton Filter is expertly structured to fit 2019-2024 6.4L RAM 2500s.

      Fitment:

      Details

      S&B 75-5133

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Cold Air Intake
      4.8

      Customer Reviews (500+)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Ram 2500

        • 6.4L V8 - 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24