(approx) 2 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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Hey, guys, Adam here with americantrucks.com. And today, we're taking a closer look at, listening to, and installing the Rough Country Dual Exhaust System with the Black Tips, available for the '19 and newer RAM 1500 with the Side and Rear Exit. You should be checking this out if you're looking for an exhaust that gives you three out of five on our loudness meter as you just heard from our sound clips. This exhaust here from Rough Country is going to give you something that's sort of the best of both worlds. You get a great daily driver sound running from red light to red light on your daily commute, but you can also have something that can blow your ears out at wide-open throttle, especially at highway speeds. Now, the nice thing about this exhaust is it's got little to no drone. So, even at highway speeds doing longer commutes with a family or listening to music, you don't have to worry about drone inside the car really blowing out your ears. It's not going to be too overwhelming. Again, best of both worlds.So, you get a low growl at idle, you get wide-open throttle that's going to give you a loud bark, and the RPM band in between is going to give you something that's really aggressive, but really tame. Now, this exhaust here is made from 409 stainless steel from head to toe, 3-inch mandrel-bent tubing, a little bit bigger in diameter than your factory tubing, especially at the outlet side. And, of course, the exit style is really going to separate it from some of the other options in the category. Being an exhaust that comes with both the side and rear exit, you get to choose what the appearance of your exhaust looks like from the exterior of your vehicle. As you can see right now, we have the dual rear exit setup, but we're also going to show you guys what the dual side exit setup looks like.Dual rear exit is very self-explanatory. It dumps out right underneath of that rear bumper, the same as your factory dual exhausted, but the side exit is going to switch things up to dump out right behind both back tires. That's something you typically see from a single exhaust that dumps out on the passenger side behind the rear tire, but it would duplicate that on the driver side as well. So, it's personal preference and it's really easy to swap out just a couple of pipes and swapping over the tips at the back end, which you can do in about 15 minutes from start to finish. Now, the entire exhaust here comes in at right around 650 bucks. And that's going to include your two black powder-coated tips here along with a black powder-coated muffler from Rough Country to help increase corrosion and rust resistance. I'll take a closer look at that comparing it to stock in just a little bit.Install-wise, I am going to give it three out of three wrenches on our difficulty because there is a little bit of cutting involved. Taking your factory exhaust off is extremely simple, but depending on your cab size and bedline, you may need to cut a single pipe included in the kit to make it fit properly. But it all depends again, on your cab size and bed length combo. Our truck here is a crew cab with the short box, in which case, we had to cut 9 inches off of one of the pipes. Because of that, you have to get a table saw or a Sawzall or something similar like that so it does beef up the difficulty just a little bit. In some cases, you may not need to cut at all, and the install gets a lot easier. Now, the install will take you about two hours from start to finish. I'm going to walk you through the entire process. Let's get started.Tools used the install include impact gun, a ratchet, 10, 13, 15, and 16-millimeter deep sockets, 16 short socket, 10 and 13-millimeter wrenches, tape measure and a sharpie, some goggles or glasses along with some gloves for the cutting, hanger removal tool, a mallet and a hammer, and a cutting tool of your choice. First step here, we're going to grab our hanger removal tool and pop the hanger off right above our resonator on our passenger side tailpipe. The driver side tailpipe is one piece all the way back to the muffler inlet. So we're going to attack that later. So, for right now, we're going to do this. And I've lubricated it with WD-40, that makes life a little bit easier.All right. Next step, grab your ratchet and your 15-millimeter deep socket, and we're going to loosen up the clamp holding the tail pipe to the rest of the exhaust assembly. All right. Hanger's out of position, clamp is loosened up, let's get this exhaust pipe off. All right. So, at this point, we're going to focus on our driver side tailpipe. Now, like I said, it's all one piece. I have a pole jack here right behind the resonator just to give it some support once we start disconnecting things. I am going to remove this tip, however. Removing this tip gives you another foot, maybe a foot and a few inches of extra space that you don't have to worry about feeding out of the frame. So, we're going to take this guy off with a 13-millimeter socket. Next, we can pop the hanger out of the isolator using our hanger removal tool right above the resonator. All right. So, now we can disconnect the hangers right above the muffler outlet. There's one on each side, grab your hanger removal tool, and get these guys off.As you can see, I have a pole jack here supporting this as well. So, we have two different points of support for this exhaust. Now, for this one, it's tough to get the hanger removal tool in here, so I'm gonna use my pry bar to get this guy off. All right. So, next up, we're going to focus on this flange here. Now, you could bypass this and go straight back to the cat, but that's a lot of exhaust take off in one piece. So I'm going to separate it here. Now, once we have this taken care of, there is one more hanger to remove, but for now, grab your 16-millimeter socket and disconnect these two bolts. All right. Now, when you pop this guy out of the hanger isolator, this is all going to come loose. So you want to be prepared for that. Before we do so, there's a ground strap here. I'm just going to disconnect that from the factory tubing. All right. So that way, it dangles here and we can reconnect it to our new exhaust later. So, now we can grab our hanger removal tool and pop that guy off.All right. Now you can take this exhaust off. So, we got our factory exhaust off of our '19 RAM and it's on the ground here next to our Rough Country dual exhaust with the side and rear exit. I want to take you guys through some similarities and differences between the two kits here. And I want to start up front. As you can see, the entrance pipe coming off of your headers is going to look a lot similar from your new exhaust to your factory exhaust. The only difference being your factory exhaust has a very small resonator built in there that's going to muffle some of that sound. So, we're opening that up, removing that restriction by giving it that straight pipe. Now, from head to toe, this entire system is mandrel-bent, 16 gauge 409 stainless steel. It's a 3-inch tubing. So it's a little bit larger in diameter than your factory exhaust, especially coming out of the muffler toward the tailpipe tips.That 409 there is the middle of the road in terms of quality and performance. You have aluminized, which is more of the entry-level, and 304, which is the more premium. This gives you the best of both worlds. It's better with corrosion and rust resistance than aluminized, but more affordable than 304. Going right into the muffler there, you can see a huge difference compared to your factory one that is a huge bubble in the exhaust system. This one is a little bit flatter. It's got a single inlet and a dual outlet there. Of course, splitting off into your dual exhaust. Your factory cat-back has more of a Y-pipe coming off of the muffler in a single outlet. So, that's a little bit different in the way that it wraps around your spare tire carrier. This guy here is going to be a little bit more efficient. It's going to be more free-flowing. And, of course, that muffler with the RC logo embedded on it is giving you the sound you heard from our sound clip earlier on. The muffler here, unlike the rest of the system with the exception of the tips has a black powder-coated finish on top.The muffler is something you especially don't want to rust out or damage, especially in the winter months. So, the black powder-coating adds to the corrosion and rust resistance over some of that 409 stainless. Coming out of that dual exit, you see it wraps around, of course, the spare tire, a little different than your factory exhaust, like I said, and then you have your exit styles. This kit gives you something that's a little bit more unique compared to some of the others in the category. You have your option between a side exit dual exhaust or a rear exit dual exhaust, and it's as easy as swapping out one pipe on each side. Now, as you can see, we have all four of those pipes laid out here. I'm going to show you guys what the install's like starting with our side exit and then we're going to swap it over to our rear exit. Keep in mind, guys, if you are going to use the side exits, your factory dual exhaust equipped RAM does have the little cutouts in the rear bumper, so those would still be exposed, of course. But just keep that in mind moving forward, it doesn't harm anything, but it is something that's included with the factory exhaust.Finally, capping things off are your tips. Four-inch slash-cut black powder-coated tips give you a stealthy look at the rear end or the side depending on your exit, but it's a big change-up compared to your factory tips, which are slash-cut, very polished stainless steel. Those are very traditional tips. This is very aftermarket. So, if you're looking for a big change-up, this is going to be the way to go. If you're not really into the black tips, there are polished tips in the category or chrome tips that gives you a flashier option. And it's even a little bit shinier and mirror-like than your factory tips, which are a little bit more dull. With that said, I'm going to start with the install up at the front. So let's get to it.Before we can install our exhaust, we have to punch out the pressed-in studs on the flange pipe coming off of the cat. It's actually easier than you think. What I recommend doing is taking the nut that came off of that stud, installing it backwards, threading it on just backwards a couple of threads, and then taking your hammer and giving it one hit to knock it out of place. From there, we can replace them with longer ones to accommodate for the thicker flange on our new exhaust. All right. So, again, I'm going to take the factory nut, I'm going to thread it on backwards. The reason we do that is because this is a flat surface and we don't want to mushroom out the front end, rather, just so you know, it can keep its shape and it's easier to use in the future. So, just thread that on a couple of threads, make sure that the factory stud isn't poking through, grab your hammer, and punch those out.All right. From there, take the nut off, pop that stud out. And what I like to do is just put the nut back on just so we don't lose it. All right. Now we can put our new studs back through. All right. So, now what you want to do is take the new flange pipe and you're gonna basically hold it up into position. Take the new longer stud with a flat washer and put that through and line it up to the holes on the new flange. This may be a little bit tricky with one hand, but you're basically just going to thread that nut onto the flange, just like that. Do the same thing for the other one on the other side. All right. From there, you want to make sure the pipe is angled toward the driver side, and then you can tighten down those studs. Once you have that extension pipe on, you want to rotate it so that it's angling toward your driver side. So, it'll start down the passenger and angle out toward the driver. So, we're just going to make it rotate around just like that.All right. And once you have that taken care of, you can tighten down your flange pipe. Next up is another extension pipe that'll lead into our muffler. Now, depending on your wheelbase, along with your cab size and bed length, you may or may not need to cut this. Now, basically, this is going to go on right after that flange pipe we just installed. Now, if your truck is like ours and it's a crew cab with a short box, we have to cut 9 inches off of this pipe. Again, depending on what your size is, you may not need to cut at all, you may need to just completely omit this pipe. But for us, we're going to cut 9 inches. And what I'm going to do here is basically take a tape measure, put it up against the end there, and I'm just going to mark at the 9-inch mark coming back here so I know that's where I'm cutting. Perfect. Again, measure twice, cut once. You want to make sure that that is completely correct. Going both ways, that's 9 inches exactly from the end there. So, we're just going to cut off that little bit and it'll fit perfectly on our wheelbase.Now, at this point, you want to make your cut, whether it be a Sawzall or a table saw like we're going to use, just make sure you're being safe, use eye protection and gloves. And then, of course, let's do that next. Now that we have this pipe cut, we can throw it right back on making sure we have a clamp on the inlet there, slide that on, grab your 15 socket and get that snug. Next, we can take the clamp with the hanger welded on. We're going to slide that over that pipe there. And because we left our flange a little bit looser, we have some of this play where we can lift it up and connect it to the hanger on the frame. Just like that. Now we can tighten down this clamp. There we go, nice and sturdy. Next up, our muffler. Have a clamp on the inlet side and slide that onto that pipe. All right. I'm gonna bring my pole jack back into position to help support this entire assembly because the muffler's a little bit heavy. All right. At that point, we can tighten down the muffler clamp.Next up, I'm going to put a clamp over one of the outlets on the muffler. Because it's powder-coated, it is a little bit tight. If you need to, you can grab a mallet to tap it all the way on. Next up, you want to take your over axle pipe going to the passenger side, feed that guy over, connect it to the muffler itself. You want to make sure you're going over the subframe there as well, lift up and connect, and then hang it up on the factory hanger. All right. Now, we can tighten up that clamp. Okay. Next, we can put a clamp on the other outlet on the muffler going to the driver side. Driver side pipe is next going around the spare tire. Make sure you bring that guy up, connect it to the muffler, and then, of course, hang it up into the hanger. All right. So, you just want to bring that guy up and connect it to the hanger just by sliding it straight in.So, we have to pop off both rear isolators toward the rear of the vehicle here on the driver and passenger side and replace it with this one included in the kit. Basically, what it does is it rearranges it from going left to right to forward and backward so that it can connect to our new pipe. So, let's pop the black one off and replace it with the red one. Perfect. Repeat that on the other side. All right. So, now we can slide the rest of our over axle pipe into that along with a clamp, lift it up and connect it to the new isolator we just hung up on the frame. Basically doing the same thing on the other side. All right. Grab your 15 socket and tighten down that clamp. Same thing on the other side.Next up, you guys get to decide what exit style you want to go with. I first want to show you guys how to install the side exit. We'll do that on both sides. And then I'm going to show you how easy it is to swap over to the rear exit. And, of course, that's what we're going to be doing moving forward. First, you want to take your exit style pipe, which is basically a 90-degree elbow. Make sure there's a clamp on the end. Install that on one side. Now, when you tighten this down, you want to make sure it's angled right underneath of the rear fender and rear bumper. If it's angled up too high, your tip will go straight inside and that won't work. So, just have it low enough, and then tighten down your clamp. Now, the tip uses its own clamp system that's already built-in. So just slide your tip in place, put it as far in or as far back as you'd like, depending on how far out you want it to stick, grab your 10 socket and wrench and tighten down the clamp. Repeat that on the other side.Now, when it comes to swapping your exit style, it is extremely easy. If you get sick of the side exit, the rear exit is always an option. I'm going to show you how to install that next. All you really have to do is pop your tip off, then the side exit elbow, install your rear exit elbow, and then the tip again. So, there's four steps on each side. It's extremely simple. So, let's knock that out now. Perfect. Repeat that on the other side. At this point, guys, once you like the position of your tips, go back and make sure all of your clamps are tight, and you're good to go.That's gonna wrap up my review and install here for the Rough Country Dual Exhaust System with Black Tips with the Side and Rear Exit fitting all '19 and newer 5.7 RAM 1500s. Get yours right here at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Rough Country 96013
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
What's in the Box
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