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Flowmaster FlowFX Direct-Fit Muffler with Active Valve (19-24 5.7L RAM 1500)

Item R113878
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$789.95 (kit)

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Ship to: Ashburn - 20149
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      Product Videos

      Jake: Jake here for AmericanTrucks, and today I'm taking a look at the Flowmaster FlowFX Direct-Fit Muffler with Active Valve, fitting 2019 and newer 5.7-liter RAM 1500s. Having a valve exhaust doesn't have to cost you a fortune, and if you want the adjustability and the benefits of a switchable valve exhaust setup without having to spend a ton of money or cutting a whole new truck, then this is gonna be exactly what you're looking for. It combines that classic Flowmaster sound with a bit more raucous noise and the option to choose how you want your exhaust to behave all with the press of a button.Now, with the valve closed, this is rather subdued, as you heard from the clips at the start of the video, but it is a slight increase versus your stock setup, so we're gonna give it a three out of five on our loudness meter. With the valve open, however, things get cranked up to the tune of a solid four out of five on that same loudness meter. This is gonna represent a marked difference over stock, and the best part is that it gives you the option to choose how loud you want it at any given point, and it's not gonna rake you over the coals to buy.While the idea of slapping the Flowmaster muffler behind a Hemi is not at all a new concept, this particular setup is. Unlike other exhausts that are a bit more one-note, forgive the pun, this one gives you options. It utilizes Flowmaster's Wave or Wireless Active Valve exhaust technology, which basically just means that you've got a cutout just ahead of the main muffler here, giving it a more "Jekyll and Hyde" split personality.Now, with this valve closed, all the exhaust gases are gonna be routed through the power chamber and then into the bullet-style FlowFX muffler. Now, the FlowFX is not the most quiet muffler either, you're gonna get a pretty good growl coming out of the pipes, definitely louder and more aggressive than what you would get stock, but it's still not over the top. Again, you're going through this power chamber and the muffler itself too. And since this is also gonna go through the factory resonators in this configuration at the back of the truck too, again, it's gonna help keep things a little more under wraps.However, if you wanna wake things up more, just open the valve right here and the exhaust is gonna get routed through the power chamber and then right out through this 3-inch turndown bypassing the muffler and the resonator at the back of the exhaust system. So it's going to be significantly louder, much more of that traditional grumbly, beefy, aggressive V8 sound that we're used to from a Hemi.Now, since this is a turndown, expect it to be a lot louder inside of the cabinet truck as well. However, with the valve closed, it's still pretty subdued inside, again, as you heard from the clips at the start of the video. The magic here is the switchable valve, and that uses these little wireless remotes to open and close.Now, On means that the valve is closed and Off means that you're getting the full experience with that turndown dump in the exhaust. You get two remotes in the kit, and they are obviously pretty small. So you can leave one hanging on your keys, maybe even mount one inconspicuously on the dashboard, or wherever else you can think of, and that way you don't have to worry about hanging on to it or taking it with you.Makes it super easy to conceal and your truck isn't gonna look any different than stock, and that's true on the outside as well. Since this is direct replacement for your factory muffler, it obviously doesn't include any tips. And it is gonna work with trucks that have either the factory single or the dual exhaust setup, so you should be good either way you slice it. And again, it's gonna keep that factory type of look, making it a bit more subtle, that is, until you hear it.Construction-wise, you get 409-grade stainless steel for the actual muffler setup itself. And that is gonna provide you with some good resistance to rust and corrosion. The power chamber here is also coated in black too. Everything you need is also included in the box. Both remotes, the motor for the valve, and all the wiring comes pretty much done for you. You've only got to do a couple of spade connectors and tie some stuff in, and one little fuse tap, but again, that's very easy to do. But we'll talk more about install as we get further on into the video.And this is not gonna cost you nearly as much as you might expect. Coming in at about $800, I would say that is a pretty reasonable price for an exhaust, considering you get that switchable valve and all the stuff to make it happen. It's a pretty unique thing in the market for this gen of brand. We don't see a lot of switchable aftermarket exhaust, to begin with, and this is gonna give you all the sound and flexibility you want without having to spend a ton of money. So if you like the idea of that, definitely worth a buy.Installation is gonna get a two out of three on our difficulty meter and should take you around two hours to complete. This is going to be a different type of install from your standard exhaust since it is just replacing the muffler. So there is a cut that you're gonna need to make to your factory system right where your factory muffler ends. But then this is gonna bolt right on using the included clamp and the flange right here, and it's gonna utilize all your factory exhaust hangers too.Now, like I mentioned earlier, this is gonna require you to do a bit of wiring and assembly. You're gonna have to mount this motor up and run these wires, put the control box where it needs to be. It's not a whole lot, and the routing of the wiring is probably gonna take you more time than actually tying stuff in and plugging it in. And like I mentioned a few moments ago, everything you need is included in this kit. For the wiring, the fasteners, even the spade connectors on this power and ground right here, and you even get a bunch of zip ties included to keep that wiring nice and up out of the way.It's a pretty simple setup overall, just one that's gonna take you some time to sort out and get it plugged in right. But without further ado, let's head out to the shop where we're gonna walk you through that entire process.Man: Tools required for this install include an impact gun, a ratchet, exhaust hanger remover tool, wire strippers and crimpers, needle nose pliers, some electrical tape, scissors or diagonal cutters, a Phillips head screwdriver, several zip ties, an extension, 14-millimeter wrench, 14-millimeter and 16-millimeter swivel sockets, 7-millimeter, 10-millimeter, 14-millimeter, and 15-millimeter sockets, and a pole jack.What's up, guys? Today, we're installing a muffler with an active valve on our RAM, so let's get started. So, to remove the portion of the exhaust that we need to, we have two bolts at the clamp at the front of our muffler, and then Flowmaster wants you to make a cut a 1/2-inch behind the muffler.Now, we've already done that in a previous install, so we just have a band clamp here. However, if yours is not cut, you can take a Sawzall or your favorite cutting tool to make that cut a 1/2-inch behind the back of the muffler. So now, at this flange on the front side of our muffler, we have two 16-millimeter bolts that we can take a 16-millimeter socket to remove. We also have this gasket that we will be popping off to reuse.Now I'm just gonna push backwards on our muffler to get enough space to pop our gasket out. So now, coming back behind our muffler, right about here is where you're gonna be making your cut, about half an inch back from the weld. However, like I said before, we've already cut ours from a previous install and have a clamp there. So I'm just gonna be using a 15-millimeter socket to loosen this up.So now with our cut made and our exhaust unbolted, we can tackle our two hangers at the back of the muffler. I've got a pole jack supporting the weight of the muffler so it doesn't come crashing down on us. Then we'll just get some exhaust hanger removers up there. Now, right next to our flange, we have one more isolator that we can pop off. Gonna wanna get one hand on the pliers and one hand on the exhaust and pop it out. Now we can lower the pole jack and remove our muffler.So before we install our new muffler assembly into the truck, we need to mount our valve actuator. Now, we have our bracket here with our gasket. That's gonna be going out first with these two combo bolts with our fiber washers. And then we can put our spring on and then we'll mount the actuator with the other three of our combo bolts.So now we can grab our gasket. We're gonna lay it down in this orientation with this tab facing the muffler. We'll put our bracket down on top of that. And then the bolts with the fiber washer, we can thread into those holes. And then we'll take a Phillips head screwdriver to tighten those down. Next, we can install our spring. Now, the hooked end is gonna go towards the valve. Gonna hook that right over there. Then we can install our actuator. We have that same notch, that's gonna go on the top of our spring. And then we can thread in our three combo bolts. Now we can grab that same Phillips head screwdriver and tighten down these three bolts.So now we're ready to get our muffler mounted up. First, we're gonna take our band clamp and put that on the backside of our exhaust. And then we can raise this up. We'll slip this opening onto our tailpipe first. So now we can start to twist this in place. We'll get one of our rods into the isolator. This one, we don't have as much room, so I'm gonna pop our isolator off and then slide it over both at the same time. Next, we can come up to our flange and get our hanger into our isolator. And then we can reinstall our gasket that's going to be going onto our new muffler.Next, we can install our hardware. So we'll get our bolt with our lock washer and flat washer. And slide that through our hole. On the other side, we'll get another flat washer and our nut. And then we'll do that same thing in our other hole. And then we can grab a 14-millimeter socket and wrench to tighten that down. Now we can come back to our slip joint and get our clamp into place, and we'll take a 15-millimeter socket to tighten this down.So now comes the fun part of wiring this thing up. Now, we have our harness, we have our silver connector, it's gonna go towards the front of the truck. And then we have two of the same connector, one's longer and one's shorter. You can use whichever one you'd like. For our application, I'm gonna be using the longer one. And then Flowmaster recommends that you tape this up with electrical tape for the one you're not gonna use.So I'm gonna take this and go over the crossmember and then plug this in to our valve actuator. And then we can run it along the driver side frame rail up towards the front. So now we'll take that connector over our crossmember. We wanna keep this as far away from the driveshaft as possible. And then we'll plug that into our valve. And then from there, I'm gonna run this over top of our gas tank and we can take it over to our frame rail.Now, from this point, I'm gonna take our harness over top of our gas tank so that we can safely get over to the driver side frame rail while keeping it away from the drive shaft. And then we can get some zip ties and zip tie it to the lines that we have running towards the front of the vehicle.So now I'm gonna take our harness over our fuel tank. We have a line right here. So I'm gonna put our harness through. That way we have no chance of that coming down near our driveshaft. And then we'll just work our way forward adding zip ties to take this to the front.So now I'm gonna go back with the zip tie and zip tie that up. And then take a pair of scissors or diagonal cutters to chop the excess. And then we'll just keep doing that moving forward. So now we're getting up to where that other connector is. I've got some electrical tape that we're gonna put over this. And now I'm just gonna top that off with the diagonal cutter.Now we're gonna go up over here. We'll put another zip tie up here by our brake lines. Chop that off. And then we're gonna take our harness up over the frame rail, between the frame rail and the body, because we're getting up by the cat, which is gonna be very hot. And I'll grab another zip tie up here, just to keep that nice and secure. And chop off our excess.Now that we're on the outside of the driver side frame rail away from the hot cat, we have this oval hole right next to the bolt for our body mount. I'm just gonna run our connector through there. And then I'm just gonna let this hang and we can hop in the engine bay and get the other half of our harness, and then we'll drop that down to the floor, connect them, and then we'll tie up our excess.So now right next to the brake booster, I'm gonna reach down and fish our cable up. We're gonna be going through a grommet that's right to the right side of the brake booster. We're gonna go through that and into the cabin. So now, right below this module right here is our grommet. You're gonna have to push it backwards, and then slide this through.So now that we got our cord through that grommet, we can go into the cabin and pull it the rest of the way through and get everything set up. So now, inside the cabin, we're gonna have to pop off this kick panel. We have two 7-millimeter bolts, so we'll take a 7-millimeter socket to remove. And then we can start prying to pop this off. And we'll just let that dangle for now.So now with our kick panel removed, we can set up the rest of our wiring. We have the second half of our harness here. We have a connector that goes to the one on the other side, as well as a black and red wire. Now, on the red wire, we're gonna be adding a fuse tap. That's gonna be going into that fuse box behind the kick panel. So we're gonna grab our red wire and take a pair of wire cutters. Chop off that connector.We'll strip back some lead on the wire. Twist that up. We'll slide that into our fuse tap. And then take a pair of wire crimpers and crimp that down. Now we can come back to our fuse box. We have this 10-amp fuse on the bottom right corner of our fuse box. It's labeled F66. We're gonna take a pair of needle nose pliers to pull that out. And then we'll add that into our fuse tap. And put our fuse tap right back in that spot.Next, we can install our ground connector. Now, it's pretty much gonna be impossible to see, but at the top left corner of the fuse box, right above that is a 10-millimeter nut on a stud. We're gonna remove that nut, slide that connector in, and then tighten it back down. So I'll take a 10-millimeter socket to loosen that up. And then we can slide that connector into place. And then we'll tighten that back down. Now we can reinstall our kick panel. And then we'll thread those two screws back into place. And then we'll grab that 7-millimeter socket to tighten these back down.So now we can grab that wire that we pushed through the grommet as well as the wire on our control box. We'll connect those, fand then we can twist this piece to lock those together. Now, at this point, you can mount this wherever you'd like. You wanna keep it away from the pedals. I'm just gonna tuck it right behind this trim piece right here. And that'll clean up our box and wires and keep that away from the pedals so that we're making it safe.So that'll wrap up this review and install of the Flowmaster FlowFX Direct-Fit Muffler with Active Valve for your 2019 and newer 5.7-liter RAM 1500. Thank you for watching, and for all things RAM, keep it right here at americantrucks.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Produces a Deep, Aggressive Exhaust Tone
      • Facilitates Efficient Exhaust Flow to Increase Horsepower and Torque
      • Direct-Fit, Power Chamber Muffler Design
      • Made From Premium 3-Inch, Mandrel Bent 409 Stainless Steel Tubing
      • Natural Brushed Finish
      • Features a High-Quality, Wireless Controlled Actuator Valve
      • Dual Rear Exit
      • Bolt-On Installation
      • Backed by a Limited Lifetime Warranty
      • Made in the USA
      • Designed for All 2019-2024 5.7L RAM 1500 Models

      Description

      All-Terrain Confidence. Elevate your RAM 1500’s powerful presence by letting out a fearless exhaust sound through the Flowmaster FlowFX Direct-Fit Muffler with Active Valve. This muffler is designed to produce a deep and aggressive exhaust tone, and features a constant power by means of a push button that regulates the wireless controlled actuator valve.

      Performance Boost. The FlowFX Direct-Fit Muffler offers superior capabilities in scavenging and refocusing of the exhaust gases. Its Power Chamber and W.A.V.E technology™ (Wireless Active Valve Exhaust™) innovatively regulate precise phase shifts to maximize power gains. Furthermore, the resulting increase in horsepower and torque provide the truck with a significantly improved overall vehicle dynamics, both on and off the road.

      Reliability and Toughness. Flowmaster ensures long-lasting functionality of this FlowFX Direct-Fit Muffler by using high-grade 409 stainless tubing. This fully welded, 3-inch tubing is engineered to resist corrosive attacks and handle extreme temperatures. Moreover, the full, seamless welds and the premium band clamps eliminate leak paths and offer extra durability.

      Seamless Compatibility. This exhaust system installs directly into the factory mounting points of your vehicle. It includes all the necessary hardware for a hassle-free installation process that requires the use of simple hand tools with moderate mechanical skills.

      Application. The Flowmaster FlowFX Direct-Fit Muffler with Active Valve is specifically designed to fit all 2019-2024 5.7L RAM 1500 models.

      Fitment:

      Details

      Flowmaster 717915

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Muffler With Valve Assembly
      • (1) Actuator Mount Assembly
      • (1) Valve Assembly
      • (1) Actuator Assembly
      • (1) Key Fob
      • (1) Three-Inch Band Clamp
      • (2) 2.25-Inch Band Clamp
      • (1) Wire Assembly
      4.6

      Customer Reviews (73)

        Questions & Answers

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        Will It Fit My Ram 1500

        • 5.7L V8 - 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24