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S&B Cold Air Intake with Dry Extendable Filter (19-23 6.2L Sierra 1500)

Item S510902-62
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$349.00 (kit)

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      Video Review & Installation

      Jake: Jake here for American Trucks, and today, I'm taking a look at this S&B Cold Air Intake with the Dry Extendable Filter, for 2019 and newer Sierra 1500s with the 6.2-Liter V8. This is going to appeal to the 6.2-Liter Sierra 1500 owner who's looking for a premium, fully enclosed intake system that will provide improvements in both power and sound. Cold air intakes are some of the most popular mods that people make to their trucks, and with good reason. They're typically pretty simple to install, they're affordable, and they're effective in improving your driving experience by increasing sound, and/or some power. But not all intakes are created equal. Many of them out there on the market are just open filters in an engine bay, which, while they may be able to pull in a greater volume of air than your stock intake, they are gonna be pulling in a lot of hot air from within the engine bay itself. And that's where something like this S&B intake comes in. Now, the biggest and most obvious feature here is that this is a fully enclosed intake system. But unlike most other enclosed intakes, this one pulls air from multiple different places.So, check this out. The inlet down here at the bottom of the airbox seals with the stock inlet duct, to pull air from the upper part of the grille. And as you can see, it has this big rubber seal on it to keep it nice and air-tight, but also has this nice, wide inlet at the top here, to pull air in from the left-hand side of the hood, and you can also take out this plug right here, to make more room for air coming in if you'd like, and this will pull from right behind the headlight. Now, by this point, you've probably also noticed this enormous air filter. Let me grab it out here for you. See what I mean? This has a lot of surface area, and that's great because you're going to need a big filter for such a large volume of air coming in. Now, it does snap into the airbox, so it's very easy to remove, and this rubber seal up here makes it nice and air-tight.This is a dry filter, much like your stock one, so while you can blow it out with compressed air occasionally, it will eventually need to be replaced. The benefit to using a dry filter versus an oiled filter is that something like this can easily be replaced when it finally gets dirty and wears out, whereas with a wet filter, you're gonna have to take that out, clean it, and you could be without the vehicle for some time, since you have to re-oil it, so it's gonna cause you a bit of downtime. Whereas using the dry filter means that you're not gonna have any downtime other than what it takes to take this out and put the new one right back in. You also won't have to worry about purchasing any sort of cleaning or oiling kits because, again, this one doesn't use any of that. Just move on at the end of its life, and it's gonna save you some time and some hassle overall, though it may not be quite the cost savings if you're going to keep your truck long-term. But that's a decision that you should make.Now, while we're on the subject, you also get this cool little window at the top of the box. It's just a piece of polycarbonate plastic with a rubber seal around the edge, and it's gonna give you a view of the filter inside so you can check it out while it's in the engine bay. It's cool to look at, but it's also functional, because it's going to allow you to see whether or not the filter is dirty without having to take it out or take anything apart. Just have a look inside, and you'll be able to see right through, and get an idea of what the filter is looking like.You're also gonna get this large ABS plastic intake tube. Now, it has a spot for your mass airflow sensor, and it's gonna provide some nice resonance to help with that sound. Since this is an unbaffled box, and as you can see, this is a pretty sizeable tube, you are gonna get quite a bit of sound out of this intake, which, in my opinion, is probably the coolest part of it. Intakes are typically pretty quiet when you're out cruising, and when you put your foot in it, you get that nice intake honk, as they call it, coming through.So, let's talk price. The whole setup is gonna run you about $400, and that's pretty standard for the category. You are getting some really nice features here, including the ability to choose how much air you want coming in. And though the intake tube isn't metal, or the box isn't necessarily the most visually stunning thing, you are getting a really high-quality item, and it's gonna give you good sound and good results. It's also very easy to service and put together. So overall, I think this is a really good value for what you're getting, and it's definitely going to make a difference in the driving experience of your Sierra.Now, speaking of installation, this comes in at a one out of three on our difficulty meter, and it should take you around an hour to get it installed. Tools needed for the install are a 10-millimeter and 13-millimeter socket, a ratchet, a T15 and T20 Torx bit, a flat blade, and a Phillips head screwdriver, a 4-millimeter Allen wrench, and a pair of pliers. Overall, this is a pretty simple installation, and everything you need to get it installed in your Sierra is included in the box, including all the clamps and hardware, and even this extension plug for your mass airflow sensor, since that is moved a little bit further away from its stock location. But overall, pretty simple thing to get done in your driveway. And now to show you just how to get this installed on your Sierra, let's hand it over to one of our AT customers, who'll walk you through the process.Man: Okay. So, we're continuing work on our 2022 GMC Sierra today, with an S&B Cold Air Intake install. First thing we wanna do is we wanna come on over to our passenger side here. You can locate the battery by locating the red-capped cover. First thing we wanna do is remove the negative battery terminal before we start any work. So, you're gonna take a 10-millimeter socket. Have it on an extension, just to make it a little more accessible. Doesn't have to come all the way off, and once the nut is loose enough, you can lift the negative battery terminal off of the battery, and we're just gonna tuck that back down away. Make sure it's secure. This way, the connection to the power source cannot re-energize the vehicle while we're working on everything here.All right. So, once our battery is disconnected with the negative terminal, we're gonna come towards the front of the truck here. Right in the center, this is our hood release latch, but these two screws need to be removed, and that's a T15 Torx bit. You can use an impact, a socket, or a simple fold-out hand tool, just like I have here. Two T15s. These should only be hand-tight. Come out fairly easily. Once they're started, you can get them out by hand. Once you have those 2 T15s removed, just lift up on the hood release latch here, and pull out, and give it a little wiggle. This extension handle, it's all plastic, will come right out. Once you have the hood release extension removed, we need to remove the 10 push pins that are all plastic here, all the way around this front plastic cowl. You can either use a clip removal tool... A flat-head screwdriver works just as well. That's what we're gonna use here. You can see on all these clips, there's a little notch that gives you leverage. You can slide a flathead screwdriver in, or the removal tool. The center pops out of these, and then the whole entire piece just pulls right out.I'll show you one here, what these clips look like once they're out. The center piece gets extended out, gives this enough leverage that you can pull the entire clip out. If at any point when you're removing these, if they become completely separated, there's no worry there. Once you're ready to put these all back in, they just press right back in together, and they are reusable.Okay. Again, working on our passenger side here, we're gonna be removing this support bar first. What we'll need for that is a 13-millimeter socket and a ratchet. Could also use a wrench. Just a little easier with the socket. There are two 13-millimeter bolts on either side, one on either side of this support bar. There's one. The second one is towards the front of the vehicle, just above this intake tube here. Kinda support the bar as the second bolt becomes loose, so it doesn't slam down and damage anything else that we're not already working on. And then that's completely removed.Okay. So, once that clip's removed, what we wanna do is we just wanna pull up a little bit on the intake tube here. You do not need to completely remove it to install the S&B cold air intake. And you'll see, it's actually pretty tough with these new active air vents in the grille. So we just wanna pull this up enough, and it's tough to see, but what you're looking for here is separation from this intake tube and our airbox, okay. Those two normally connect. We need to be able to remove the airbox, the stock airbox, I should say. In order to get the new one installed, this needs to be separated from there. I'll do my best to reorient the camera here and show you what I mean about that.Okay. Once that tube is up and out of the way, we're gonna focus closer to our airbox here. First thing we need to do is get this harness out of the way, the large harness with the gray plastic connections here. Okay. This is secured to the airbox with a plastic bracket. If you look to the rear of this, there's a bracket. There is no release on that bracket. It's designed to be released with sufficient upward force. So what we need to do is just grab hold of this harness and tug upward with enough force to release that plastic. Now, I have had mine removed once before on this vehicle when I installed a Pulsar unit, so it's gonna be a lot easier for me than it probably will be for you. Don't be afraid to pull up hard enough. You can also tilt back, towards the front of the truck actually. That might help release it, okay? So, again, mine's gonna be a lot easier. We're just gonna lift right off here, okay?The next step after that, once this harness is out of the way, you're going to have a silver push pin zip tie. That's going to be wrapped around this wire harness here. This is, again, a feature that I don't have, because I've previously had this harness completely separated when I did the Pulsar install. That push pin is going to be located just below this bolt here, below the mass airflow sensor, on the airbox. Just need to pull that away so you're getting more free movement of this harness, so we can kinda just tuck this out of the way, and we can get this airbox removed.Continuing on with removing some electrical connections, we do need to disconnect our mass airflow sensor, okay? That's this right here. Has somewhat of a flat surface. Directly attached to the airbox. This is what's reading the air going into your engine, okay? On here, you're gonna see this plastic clip. Okay. If you come from the right side, more towards the driver's side, you'll see that you can kinda push that clip out. Once that's started, makes it very easy. You can either use your finger, or a flathead screwdriver, if you're gentle. Okay. You wanna pull that red locking tab completely out. Okay. And then you're just going to depress the plastic here, give this a little wiggle, and we have removed our connection.Okay. We're looking in from the passenger side of the engine bay now. If we're looking at the front of the vehicle, this would be the left side of the motor. And what we need to do is remove the crankcase vent tube. There's two connections on this very short tube here. You'll see this arched tube here. We're gonna go just behind that, and you'll see these plastic clips on either end here. The top one's a little harder to see. All you have to do is depress that clip and pull the tube away. Again, both plastic connections, very easily removed, and we'll zoom in on that.A little different angle here. Again, what we're doing is we're removing this crankcase vent tube, with a connection here and a connection down here. Okay. Again, just gonna depress on that plastic gray tab, then that tube pulls away, and we have the identical one down here, with the tab on the inside, and we're just gonna pull that tube up and out, and we have our vent tube removed.Okay. We're now looking at the front of the motor, the back of the truck this way, the front of the truck this way. This is the second hose clamp we need to remove after we remove the one from the flex pipe on the airbox. This metal piece right here, that's our throttle body. We need to remove that hose clamp that connects this plastic box to that throttle body. Again, I'm going to use the 9/32 on an extension, just to make it a little easier and quicker, but you guys can use either a flat-blade screwdriver or a nut driver, whatever you're comfortable with. Slipped off there. Get that just loose enough. We should be able to then go ahead, rock this out, and then we want to pivot this to the passenger side.Okay. Once we have the airbox tilted up to our passenger side, you can see our metal throttle body here much easier. This bracket here is simply just a metal bracket with some foam that locks in this plastic here, so while keeping it to the vertical position, if you push towards the passenger side, you'll be able to easily completely remove this unit. Moving back to our driver's side, just in front of the airbox, you'll see there is a 10-millimeter nut here that holds the airbox in, the stock airbox. That's our last step here. To remove this airbox, we're gonna use a 10-millimeter ratchet socket. Be careful not to lose that nut. We will definitely be reusing that later in our install. Gonna finish it off by hand. And then once that's removed, we should be able to just simply lift up on our stock airbox here. Make sure we give it enough lift to clear all the connections. A little hung up on some wiring in the rear, but if we finagle it around, you'll see it comes right out.Okay. So, the uninstall is complete. We're now moving on to your new equipment, your new airbox for your S&B cold air intake. First thing we wanna do is install the silicone inlet seal. If you're looking at the S&B intake, here, this is where our air filter is going to go. We're gonna set that down. It's a nice, stable platform to work off of. This portion right here, kind of oblong oval shape, almost rectangular, this is where we're going to be installing our silicone seal. If you look at the seal, it does have a tapered edge leading in, wider to narrow. Okay. We wanna take that narrow side, and that's the side that's going inside of this box. There is a grooved channel in this flexible silicone. We're just gonna slide this right in here, just like this. Work that in all the way. It should not give you a ton of resistance. If it does, double-check the fitment, and the position in which you're placing that inside the box. Okay. We're gonna press that in all four corners, along all four sides, make sure we're in fully.The next thing we're gonna do is move on to our harness bracket. That large harness that we removed the original bracket from the airbox, we now need to give that bracket a place to lock into, or that harness to lock into, I should say. So, if we're looking at our inlet here, we just installed this silicone seal. Right down here, you're gonna see an inset silver nut, a threaded nut, okay? This here is our new harness clip. All right. You'll see one side has a clip portion sticking out. One side is recessed. We want that recessed side on the inside. We want this clip portion to be the spot that our harness clips into, okay? So, keeping the box in the same position, just for simplicity, there is a obvious portion that's going to fit right in here, just like this. Now, taking our supplied 5/32 Allen screw, we're going to place that through the bracket, and then into our threaded nut on the S&B airbox, and start to snug it up. As it gets close to being snug, we just wanna make sure that that bracket is properly lined up here. We're just gonna make that hand-tight. That will be our new bracket for our harness.Moving on from the bracket, we're going to be installing our rubber grommet here. There's only one in the kit, and that gets installed just below the silicone inlet. You just push the corner of one side of that grommet into the box here. Continue to work all the way around, pushing that in until the grommet sits nice and flush, as you can see. And then once that grommet is in there, we're gonna be installing this shoulder washer here. Okay. The shoulder washer has one flat side, and it is the only one that comes in the kit. So, we're back to that grommet we just installed. We're just going to place the flat side up towards us, and we're gonna work that into that rubber grommet. Okay. Will be a little stiff. We wanna press that down nice and flush with that grommet, and we should be good to go from there.Once the grommet and shoulder washer are installed, we're gonna install the silicone box plug. That's this large, rectangular, silicone piece that has the S&B logo right on it. Okay. That's gonna go here. This is actually designed to be installed in one of two ways. You can either install it from the outside or from the inside, okay? I like a more flush appearance to my engine bay, especially on the airbox, so I'm going to install this from the outside, because I feel like it's just going to appear better, and it's personally my preference. Now, again, we have our airbox flipped upside down, because this is more of a flat surface, and it works better on the table here.So, I want the S&B logo to be facing the appropriate way when it's actually in the engine bay. So I'm going to be installing the logo upside down here. So, very similar to our inlet silicone. We just wanna take that notched groove, start in one corner, and we're just gonna work this in, okay? Work our way around the entire port here. Okay. And then once that's installed, just run your hand around all four sides, all four corners, make sure it's a nice, flush appearance. Then the last thing we're gonna be doing outside of the vehicle with a large portion of the airbox. I'm gonna turn the airbox this way. You'll see the two mounting prong portions, and we're gonna take the two grommets that are associated with that inside of the kit, and we're just gonna slide those right on.Okay. Before we go ahead and install the new S&B airbox, I wanna point out a few things. The two prongs to the rear of the airbox that we just installed the grommets on, they're gonna slide in one here and one right here. You can see the open holes there. Okay. And then that, earlier, in one of the initial steps, we lifted up on the intake tube, towards the front of the grille. This is the other half of that. You can see there's a little bit of play here. We pushed it up and out of the way, so we can slide that old airbox out, and we're gonna slide the new airbox in. Once that's in here, we're gonna have to slide this tube into the new airbox, in that silicone inlet.Okay. So, we're gonna take our new airbox, now facing upright. Our silicone inlet is towards the front of the vehicle. We're gonna take this, pull our harness out of the way. We're gonna work this in here, being careful not to catch any of our hoses or wires in the process. Gonna put it in sideways, start rotating, and then pushing our prongs down. And once you're down and in, so you can start repositioning, make sure your prongs are going into those holes that we previously pointed out. And then, lastly here, what you wanna make sure is in your right front corner, the driver's side, closest to the grille, you wanna make sure that where we took the original 10-millimeter nut off, that that properly goes through that shoulder washer and that grommet, and sticks right up. And we're gonna reapply the 10-millimeter nut right there.Once that's finger-tight, come in with either a regular 10-millimeter wrench, or I have a ratcheting style here, get that on there, and we wanna make this nice and tight. It's gonna secure our airbox in place. Good. Once the airbox is secure, I'm going to be pushing the stock inlet tube through our silicone gap here. It's helpful to help guide it from the inside, but you also wanna be grabbing up near the grille, pushing downwards, to assure that the tube appropriately enters through the silicone seal here. Once it starts to come through, you can kind of pull it in, just like so, and then we're gonna reposition and go to the front of the vehicle, and secure the other side of that tube.Okay. Back looking at the front of the vehicle near the grille here, this is the other side of that inlet tube that we just shoved into the new S&B airbox. When doing so, getting it inside that seal, it's helpful to have one hand on this side while you're guiding it in on the other side of the box. And just kinda pushing down and pushing in towards the box, that's gonna get this tube seated nice and evenly inside of the new airbox. Next thing you need to do is take the unique plastic push pin clip. If you feel like you possibly mixed this up with the 10 others that are used on the top cowl, no need to worry. Just compare them. This one looks different. This is designed slightly different than the rest. So, you just wanna make sure that this is fully extended, the inside is as compressed as possible, and then we're gonna come in, and just on that open hole that we took it out of before, work it in there. Can be a little tricky to get these in. Be careful to not break any of the plastic prongs. Once you get one side in, you can kind of push in on the others. There we are. And then you wanna just keep the clip open, and push it into the frame here, and then we're gonna secure it in nice and solid.That's gonna help secure up the airbox even further. The next thing we're gonna do is reinstall our cross support bracket, just above that inlet tube, the two 13-millimeter bolts that we previously removed. I'm gonna start the first one by hand, get that a little bit snug, then we'll come to the back side here and do the same thing. If for some reason it doesn't seem like this crossbar is laying appropriately, looks a little off, it's a good chance you have the sides reversed. So, before you snug everything down, just make sure that each side of the bar lays flat against the surface you're mating it to. Once those are slightly snug, you can grab your 13-millimeter ratchet and socket, and we'll tighten these all the way up. Nice and solid.So, once you're ready, you're gonna take your 10-millimeter nut, go ahead and place that back in onto that post. This is a lot tighter of a position once this new intake is in, so I like to start it hand-tight, make sure I'm not going to lose that nut. Once that's in place, we can go ahead and put our plastic extension on our hood release. Just slide that on. We have our two T15 screws. Again, start those hand-tight, grab our T15, snug those two screws up, make sure that's solid, and you're good to go there.All right. Looking at the airbox, we can go ahead and reinstall our harness onto the new bracket that we put on the side here. It just slides right in and locks in. Now you can go ahead and take your wiring, with your previously removed zip tie clip, gray clip. Go ahead and press that into the side of the housing here, and that's gonna secure up your wiring harness. Once you have that bottom push pin zip tie installed, go ahead and take one of the supplied ones in the kit. We're gonna install that into the upper hole here. Just go ahead and press that in first. Get it nice and secure in that hole. Then you're gonna take your mass airflow sensor wire, and just loosely zip tie this through. We'll eventually secure this. This is gonna help keep this sensor wire away from any of the hot surfaces in the engine bay.Okay. The next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna take our top cover here, with the clear plexiglass S&B cover. I'm gonna peel away our protective film from the cover and the S&B logo, make sure we're fully removed here. We're gonna take the silicone surround for that piece, make sure you're lined up, and just like every other silicone seal that we've done, go ahead and just feed that into the channel. Starting from one side, working your way all the way around. If it starts to get tough on one side, you jump over to the other, meet in the middle. And when you get towards the end, it's gonna be snug, but the silicone is flexible and stretchy. Okay. And again, once you're all seated, work your hand all the way around, make sure it's all fully pressed in, and that's what the final product should look like.All right. Once you have your sight glass installed in your silicone seal, you can go ahead and bring that over to the top of the airbox here. You're just gonna wanna press that in all the way around. Get a nice, solid seal. Can be a little tricky. As you see, there is a channel to make sure that it is seated in. So, my one side wasn't properly seated, so I took the opportunity to pop it back out, make sure it goes in right the first time. You can also reach inside the box, as you see I'm doing here, kind of pull the seal away from the inside of the box. That's gonna help you press it down easier, and also assure that that seal's all the way around, and seated. Go around from the inside, just give that a little push. And once we're all done, we'll probably take a microfiber cloth, just go over that plexiglass, make sure we have a nice, clear sight.Next, you wanna go ahead and grab your filter for the S&B cold air intake. Make sure you've completely removed any plastic covering on this. That can't be on once we're installed here. I'm gonna slide that in, and just like everything else in this system, it's a sealed unit. So, there's a nice silicone ring around here, and I find it easier if you start towards the base of the filter. Make sure that that gets seated in, and then just work your way around, chasing that seal, pressing in firmly, making sure you have a good seal all the way around this entire unit. And then once you think you have it in place, do one more pass all the way around, and the filter should be nice and snug.We're back looking at our stock airbox. This is what we've already removed from the vehicle. We're gonna be removing the mass airflow sensor here. These are two T20 Torx screws that we're gonna be removing, with our T20 bit. It's very important that once this is removed, that you're holding the mass airflow sensor from the outer edge here. You don't wanna put the greases from your fingers on that sensor. It's very sensitive to dirt and debris, and grease. Okay. And the oils from your fingers can affect that. So, again, two T20s, very easy to come out. Two, and then this unit here just slides straight out. And there you have your mass airflow sensor. Again, we don't wanna touch any of the sensitive portions here. We're just gonna hold it right from the edge.What we've got here is our new S&B intake tube. Okay. You see towards one side that we have the mass airflow, MAF, sensor cutout. That's what we're gonna be working right now. So, what you're gonna need to grab from the kit, there are two new silver screws that we're gonna secure the MAF in place. There's also a gasket, which will go down first, and then a step plate, which will go down after the gasket. And then, you see the cutout is closer towards one edge of the tube. We wanna take our mass airflow sensor that we just removed from the old intake tube, and we're gonna place that with the electrical connection, facing out of that close side. Okay. So, we're gonna just slide that in. And then you're gonna take the two new screws, and slide those in. Now, these are Phillips head, so just go ahead and grab your Phillips head screwdriver, and we're gonna snug these down. There shouldn't be much resistance here. If you notice any resistance, go ahead and pull the screws back out, make sure everything is lined up properly, and you kinda wanna go back and forth and make sure that this is getting evenly seated as you tighten things down. Don't wanna over tighten one side before the other, because you might not get as good of a seal.All right. So, once you have the MAF sensor installed, go ahead in the kit and get the quick-disconnect adapter. That's gonna go into this threaded nut here on the intake tube. Okay. Be careful not to cross-thread these. I like to start by backing it off first until it drops into the threads. And then you're gonna go finger-tight with this. Okay. Finger-tight, and then hand-tight. And then, you can go ahead and take an adjustable crescent-style wrench. You can take a 3/4-inch wrench. I don't have either, so we're gonna use a 19-millimeter. And all you're gonna do here is go one to two turns past hand tight. You do not wanna overtighten this. You can very easily cross-thread this, and if that's the case, you'll be damaging your product.Mine is actually fairly tight already, so I don't even wanna go a full two turns. I'm probably gonna go right about there. That's about one turn for me. It is okay to still have some threads showing there. The next thing we're gonna wanna do is take your step coupling. You can see there's two sides, a larger and a smaller. The smaller side is gonna be for your throttle body. The larger side is gonna go over our intake tube. Okay. We also have two metal hose clamps, one larger, one smaller, corresponding with the size of the coupling. So, what we're gonna do is make sure it's large enough to fit over our larger side of the coupling, and we're going to slide this onto our intake tube. You'll see there is a notch-down where the coupling steps down one size, and that's pretty much the point that you want to slide this on. Significant enough that you can clamp down along the ridged portion. Now, again, as we did earlier with our hose clamps, we're gonna take our 9/32 ratchet, and we're gonna tighten this down. You can also use a flat-blade screwdriver or a bit driver. Turn that around, just so you all can see it a little easier. Once you're done on the intake tube side, take your smaller hose clamp, make sure it's loose enough that you can easily slide it on over there. Okay. And then this is going to be the portion that goes onto the throttle body.Then you wanna go ahead and grab your MAF, mass airflow sensor, extension cable. We're gonna plug in the male side to the female connector. Okay. You should hear a solid click, and then we're ready with that. Once you have the extension cable plugged in, you're gonna take another one of those zip ties that has the inserted end. We're gonna insert that into this open tube here, nice and solid, and then we're gonna run our cable down and in here, just like so. Okay. We're gonna leave this nice and loose, just so we can make adjustments as needed once we're in the truck.Now you wanna come back over to your engine compartment with your intake pipe, and you're gonna start on the airbox side over here, okay, with this hose clamped, making sure this is loose. You just wanna go ahead and start to feed the intake tube into that box. Okay. You'll see there's a natural ridge in the intake pipe. That's the point that you want to get that intake tube down to, okay? And then, while you're doing so, on the throttle body side, you can do the same... You wanna make sure that everything is all lined up. You're gonna head and press your pipe over your throttle body. Make sure you're snug on both sides. Okay. Now that this is all tightened up, we have our mass airflow sensor wire here, and the first thing I'm gonna do is take one of the additional zip ties that are in the kit, and we're gonna wrap this around the harness that's just on top of the motor here, above the throttle body, and then, we're going to take the other end of our extension wire, and we're gonna plug this in to our original mass airflow sensor wire.Okay. Back at the front view here, we have our extension wire and our original wire. We're gonna make this connection, and hear a solid click, and then we're gonna push on the red tab to solidify that connection. Next, we will make sure that this is up and out of the way, with an additional zip tie to the harness here, and then we can tighten up the rest of our zip ties. Once all of our zip ties are tight, and our wire is nice and out of way, away from any of the hot positions on the motor, we're gonna take some wire cutters here and just snip off all the excess on the zip ties.With our hose clamps locked roughly in place, we'll be using a 1/4-inch socket this time on a ratchet, get them snug, and as it starts to snug up on the hose, you just wanna make sure that you are all the way seated, and that your hose clamp is going to make a solid connection when it's tightened down. Again, you don't wanna over tighten this, so if you are using a ratchet and socket, as I am, just be very careful with your connection. And then we're gonna do the same thing to the other side here. Again, getting it close, starting to snug, gonna verify the position of the connectors, and verify that the hose clamp is going to mate well around the fuel hose and the [inaudible 00:41:39]. And then we'll tighten this down.Okay. Now that your hose is assembled, you're gonna take the right angle portion, and attach that to our intake tube, and our straight connection is gonna go down here to the engine. Okay. So, it's helpful to just get it in position here. Don't lock it in yet until you're ready on both sides. And then a nice solid push and click on the intake tube locks that in, and then you're gonna do the same over here on the engine side. Nice, solid, positive click, and our hose is installed.Once that's installed, we can come back over to our battery, and our negative battery terminal on our passenger side. Go ahead and lift up on the negative terminal, slowly bring that back down, and then we can tighten this back up, again, using our 1/4-inch drive, a little extension, and our 10-millimeter. Nice and snug, and our battery is reconnected.Okay. Now, back in the truck, we just started the engine, and we're gonna go over to our Options screen on our Information Center, and on the Options screen, you wanna press Info Page Options, and right here, you wanna make sure Air Filter Life is selected with the green check mark. Once that's the case, you wanna go out of the Options screen, over into the Information Page, and you are looking for Air Filter Life. Here, you wanna press and hold, and you wanna disable the Air Filter Life option. What that is going to do is assure that you don't receive any error codes, because the truck no longer can read the air filter life the same way it did with the factory airbox.Jake: That's gonna wrap it up for our review and install of the S&B Cold Air Intake with Dry Extendable Filter, for 2019 and newer Sierra 1500s with the 6.2-Liter V8. Thanks so much for watching, and remember, for all things Sierra, be sure to stick with us right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • Increases in Horsepower and Torque
      • Dry Extendable Air Filter Media
      • Offers up to 51.69% Airflow
      • Designed with an Enclosed Airbox
      • Features a MAF Extension Harness
      • Not CARB Certified
      • Backed by a Million-Mile Warranty
      • Fits 2019-2023 6.2L GMC Sierra 1500 Models


      Optimizes the Truck’s Performance. Drive your GMC Sierra 1500’s performance to the limit with the help of S&B’s Cold Air Intake with Dry Extendable Filter. This system has everything you need to increase the amount of cooler, cleaner air that’s fed into the engine, increasing your truck’s torque and horsepower gains as a result. The system also gives your vehicle a more aggressive sound, so expect to turn heads whenever you take your Sierra out for a spin.

      Monstrous Air Filter Size and Construction. This system utilizes S&B’s Dry Extendable Filter. This component boasts a large size and is made from high-quality dry filter material, so it’s capable of preventing dust, dirt, and other debris from damaging the engine.

      Superior Quality Components. Unlike most systems, this S&B Cold Air Intake is designed with a durable, fully enclosed air box. This feature fortifies the air filter from abrasive particles, as well as keeps the engine heat out.

      No-Fuss Installation. You won’t have any trouble installing this cold air intake. This is because it boasts a convenient snap-on lid airbox and it comes complete with all its necessary hardware.

      Has a Million-Mile Warranty. This system is backed by S&B’s million-mile warranty. This, however, is only limited to the replacement of defective or malfunctioning products. To learn more, check out the manufacturer’s website or contact customer support.

      Not CARB Certified. S&B’s Cold Air Intake is not CARB certified, therefore it is not legal for use in California or any other state adopting California emission standards. It's not intended for use on pollution controlled motor vehicles.

      Application. S&B’s Cold Air Intake with Extendable Filter fits 2019-2023 6.2L GMC Sierra 1500 models.

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      S&B 75-5128D

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Airbox
      • (1) Performance Replacement Filter
      • (1) Silicone Inlet Seal
      • (1) Silicone Step Coupler
      • (1) Intake Tube
      • (1) MAF Harness Extension
      • (1) MAF Mount Pad
      • (1) MAF Gasket
      • (1) Silicone Box Plug
      • (1) Snap-In Lid Seal
      • (1) Clear Lid
      • (1) Machined Aluminum Shoulder Washer
      • Installation Hardware

      Customer Reviews (500+)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Sierra 1500

        • 3.0L I6 Duramax - 22
        • 6.2L V8 - 19, 20, 21, 22, 23