(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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It's Joe from AmericanTrucks. In this video, we're going over the Motofab 3-inch front leveling kit fitting all '06 to '18 Ram 1500s with four-wheel-drive excluding the Mega Cabs. Now, this is gonna be a great option for any Ram owner out there that's not looking to go with a full-on lift kit. You're looking to save a bunch of money by going with an aggressive 3-inch spacer lift.So, what do we have going on here with the spacer lift from Motofab? First thing's first, let's go into construction. As you guys probably could have guessed, this is made out of CNC machined billet aluminum. Really good stuff there. Sealed in a black powder coating, which will perfectly match your suspension components. It's gonna provide a nice layer of protection from the elements as well. All in all, this is gonna give you 3 inches of lift. One thing I do want to warn you guys is this isn't going to come out of the box measuring 3 inches, but after you factor in suspension geometry on our Ram here, this will take the front end up the full 3 inches.Now, with that, it's gonna come plenty of off-road benefits. The first one I want to talk about is gonna be a big one. It's gonna be bigger tires. This is going to allow you to run a bigger tire, that's for sure. Much bigger tire, in fact. This is going to comfortably fit a 35-inch tire. You're going to get all of the benefits of that wider track width, more tread width, beefier sidewall, better-looking wheels overall. I know that is a small thing, but it definitely plays into the looks department and definitely a huge improvement over what she can fit on here from the factory. Now, secondly, this is also going to fix a problem known as rake. Now, all Rams and trucks in general, for that matter, they tend to sit a little bit lower in the front than they do in the rear. The rear tends to be a little bit higher. Every truck comes out of the factory that way, reason being if you have anything heavy in the bed or if you're towing something heavy, the truck would then level out. If you're not doing either of those two things, often it's more of a looks thing, so going with a leveling kit like this one, especially a 3-inch level, it's going to bring the front up level with the rear and help fix that stance. Definitely a huge plus. On top of that, if you have any heavy-duty off-road gear, that stuff adds weight. Steel front bumpers with a winch in it, that tends to add a little bit more sag to the front end of any truck you put it on. That's just the way suspension is going to work. Something like this could help dial that extra weight out. Thirdly, last but not least, this is also going to help you with ground clearance, especially up front, approach angle, breakover angle. Definitely going to be improved with something like this. Not so much departure angle. However, Motofab does offer a 1.5-inch rear spacer kit that you can pair this with, and that would help you in the departure angle department as well.Now, one thing we have to talk about here, this is going to be a pretty aggressive spacer lift kit. 3 inches is pretty much going to be as far as you can go when it comes to a spacer. And when we get into these numbers, I always think about the upper control arm. Reason being is that upper control arm, it's designed around factory components, and the range of motion is basically factored in for factory components. The angle of the ball joint can be a little bit off. That can cause some premature wear, however, not the end of the world. You can absolutely run these with factory upper control arms. Also, in 2013, the factory moved from cast to stamp steel, so it can be an upgrade in durability as well by going with an aftermarket set of upper control arms. You're gonna get the most range of motion out of these, and your ball joint is probably gonna last longer with a set of upper control arms designed to accommodate a lift like this one. You can run the factory stuff again, but just my two cents here. While you're in here, pick up a set of upper control arms too.Next up, let's talk a little bit about pricing. This isn't a full-on lift. This is a spacer lift kit, and all spacer lift kits are going to be budget-friendly, only looking around 75 bucks here, so if you're looking to get some basic off-road benefits, this is definitely going to be a small price to pay. Little bit of work goes into getting these on your truck, but that is neither here nor there. If you're looking to get into it, this is a great jumping-off point. And Motofab even throws in a limited lifetime warranty.Before we move on to the install here, I want to make a couple notes about fitment. There are two things this is not gonna work for it. Number one, if you have air ride from the factory, this is not for you. Number two, if you have a Mega Cab, this is not gonna work out for you either. Obviously, there are other kits out there that will. However, this is not it.All right, the good stuff, the install. Relatively speaking, when comparing this to a full lift kit, this is gonna be really, really easy. I'm gonna give it an easy two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. Should take you about four hours if you're really moving, six hours if you've never done this before. So, without any further ado, let me show you what tools you'll need and how it's done.Tools we use for this install will include sockets ranging from 24 millimeters all the way down to 7 millimeters, an 8-millimeter Allen key, U-joint, ratchets. Some rust penetrant will help you out a ton with this install, Channellocks, ratcheting wrenches, 21-millimeter and 18-millimeter, breaker bar. Some pry bars are going to be a must. There's a lot of pry bar work in this install, some safety glasses, and an impact. Two things not pictured in this shot will be pole jacks and a floor jack.Okay, so here we are over by the truck. Couple of things to go over before we start our install here. Obviously, you want to get your truck jacked up nice and safely so you could work on the suspension with no worries. Secondly, you want to do a little bit more to protect yourself. Some gloves, safety goggles, have that on hand because this can be a messy job. Thirdly, you want to hit this with a nice healthy dose of rust penetrant. PB B'laster does a great job. This is what I really like. And then, after that, we can grab the 13-millimeter socket. We're gonna take care of some of these brake and ABS lines here. We're gonna be taking this all apart. You don't want to stretch those during the disassembly, so we're gonna go ahead and unbolt the 13-millimeter bracket held on right about there.And this should be enough. Just that little bit of extra slack there before you get to this hard line is really all you need to take this all apart. The next thing we're gonna do is disconnect our sway bar end link from the sway bar. This is held on with a 16-millimeter nut. We're gonna try and get this with the impact first. If not, you could always hold this ball joint still with a 7-millimeter socket. And that popped right off surprisingly. After that, we can go ahead and remove the nut. This flat washer on top of this rubber bushing, that could all go as well. Keep a close eye on those. We are gonna re-use these to put this back together a little bit later on. And this is the only thing I'm gonna recommend. Hit on the other side as well. That way, you can press up on the sway bar and get it out of the way completely.Next thing we're gonna loosen up is the 21-millimeter nut that holds on our tie rod. If this ball joint spins on you, you can hold this still with a 10-millimeter socket. And no problems there. What we're actually gonna do is thread that back on just a little bit, reason being is what we're gonna do next is hit this collar here with a hammer to break that ball joint taper loose so we can remove this. Before you start banging away on this, good idea to apply some safety goggles to your noggin right now just in case anything flies off. Give it a couple hits. You'll see that pop out. Then we can remove the nut, and that is as good as done. Next thing we're gonna hit is our upper ball joint here. This connects the upper control arm to the knuckle, 21-millimeter nut, and just like the tie rod, 10-millimeter socket if you need to hold this still. U-joint can help you get at this with the impact, and then you can remove it. Now, just like the tie rod, what we're gonna do is thread that on just one or two threads. This is going to serve two purposes this time. With the tie rod, all we were doing was protecting our threads from the hammer. That's gonna serve the same purpose here. However, it's also gonna catch this upper control arm. Once that ball joint pops loose, this is gonna want to spring up, and that nut is gonna keep it within that half an inch right there. And again, we're gonna pop on the safety goggles here, and we're going to hit that collar until that ball joint breaks loose. Now, pretty clear there. You saw when it popped open. You saw it spring up. So, what we're gonna do is come in, grab a coil with the pry bar, pry down on that upper control arm. That's going to allow us to remove that nut, then let up on the pry bar, and you could gently separate the two. That is pretty good. One thing to keep an eye on, brake line, that is looking pretty loose as well.Up next, lower strut mount over this side for the nut, 24-millimeter. Bolt head over here is gonna be a 21-millimeter. You could see I threw a pole jack under here just to support our lower control arm. Make sure this doesn't spring down once we get that bolt out the other side. And we're gonna use our 24 to get the nut off. And that is a little bit stuck. First thing so far that's stuck, but hey, we're gonna grab a 21-millimeter wrench on the other side, and that should hold it still. Now, what we're gonna do on the other side is I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter socket. I'm just gonna use the threads on that bolt to help it work its way out, and then we can remove it. Now, going up to the top of that strut assembly, we have three 15-millimeter nuts up here. The electric ratchet and a short 15-millimeter socket gonna make quick work of those. So, now what we're gonna do is we're gonna hook the pry bar into the lower control arm and pull up on that strut assembly, get the bottom out, and then the whole thing should come out from the top.All right, so now that we have our strut assembly removed from our Ram, you can see really easily how this spacer lift is gonna make a difference. Basically, gonna go right over top of these studs. There's only one way to do it. So, that's basically how it's going to slide on, and then we can secure it with these three 17-millimeter nylock nuts. Now, before we do that, one thing I want to make a quick note of here. On these studs, you can see a little bit of leftover blue Loctite. You can skip that. Nylock nuts are going to stay on there pretty good. They're not gonna back off with that nylock on there. So, all we have to do is basically take this, line it up with the studs, and you might have to give it a couple spins to get there, and then we can take our 17-millimeter nut and bolt the two together. And we'll do the same thing for the other two studs as well.All right. So, what I'm gonna do next, I don't recommend, but it's a situation you have to do here. There's a chrome socket on the impact gun, not an impact socket. That's a no, no in the car world. These things tend to shatter. You want to be careful. Put your safety goggles on. The reason we have to use this is the holes bored for the nuts, they are really, really small and the thicker-walled impact sockets don't really fit, so we're gonna have to use the thinner chrome socket to tighten these down. You can do it by hand. I'm gonna use an impact gun just to make sure these are nice and tight. So, that's how you install spacer to the strut assembly. We're gonna go ahead and take this as well as our three Allen key bolts back to the truck. We're gonna get this in place first and then bolt it down.So, in order to get this in, we are gonna have to pry down on the lower control arm. You saw me earlier hook the pry bar into here. That's not really gonna work now because we need that area to basically get in there and get our strut assembly around this portion. So, what I like to do, the best way I've found to do this, take the lower strut bolt, put it in with the threads facing that way. Get the nut on two turns, and that basically gives you a good, nice little lever there to pull down on this lower control arm. And if you pry hard enough, you should be able to slip this in no problem. And you can see, just like that. That's how you do it. So, as you can see, that pops right in. All you have to do, grab the pry bar, stick it in the lower control arm, grab a buddy to pry down on it, and get the forks around. That is pretty much it. One thing I do want to mention is this is gonna flip 180, so you want to make sure the threads on the spacer are lined up with the holes in the bucket then do exactly as we did. We're gonna leave the bottom alone for now. We're going to get those bolts started in the top. We're gonna leave them loose, and then we can get the bottom bolt in as well.So, we're gonna leave the top just finger tight for now. We're gonna work on the bottom next. And with somebody manning the pry bar, what you're gonna do is basically get it in between those two. Couple taps with a hammer to slide it back, and we're gonna try to get the bolt in. Now, I know this bolt head was on the other side to begin with. We're gonna do this backwards. I find that way easier. If you want to fight with it and try to get the other side, I'm sure it's possible. However, really difficult because you also have to twist this side to get it right. So, what we're gonna do is keep working the pry bar, working the hammer until we get this through. Now, we can tighten that down, 21-millimeter for the bolt head, 24-millimeter for the nut. As far as torque spec goes, this doesn't get too much. If I remember correctly, only about 100-foot pounds, so not too bad. Now, with the bottom situated, we can jump back up to the top. We're gonna use an 8-millimeter Allen key to tighten down those three bolts. Torque spec here, not going to be bad at all, only about 30, 40-foot pounds.So, once you have that tightened down, that really is the hard part out of the way. The rest of this is just gonna be rebuilding. We're gonna start with our upper ball joint right there. Now, there is a bit of a trick to this. You can see I brought the truck down. I have the rear tires touching just to make sure in case anything falls, it's not that high up in the air. I have the lower control arm jacked up here, just enough to get our knuckle in range of the ball joint, and then basically all we're gonna do is get into the coils with the pry bar, give that a downward push and then restart that 21-millimeter nut.After that, really, really simple stuff. I'm just gonna put the tie rod back in, and we can reinstall the 21-millimeter nut and torque to spec. Now, we can do our sway bar. Just gonna push that back down. Now, we can use a pry bar to get our sway bar back around the end link, and then we can install our rubber bushing and cap on the end, and then our 16-millimeter nut. I'm gonna compress this a little bit with the Channellocks just to get a thread started. Then we can tighten that down. Again, 7-millimeter socket if you need to hold the end link still, 16-millimeter socket for the nut, and while we're here, we can do the same thing on the other side as well. To wrap things up, we're just gonna re-secure our brake line bracket with the 13-millimeter bolt we removed earlier. I already have it started. We're just gonna tighten it down.All right, guys, that is gonna do it. Couple of closing thoughts here. We're just gonna make sure everything is torqued down to spec, then we can put the wheel back on, torque that down, and then take this truck right to the alignment shop. But that's gonna do it for my review and install of the Motofab 3-inch front leveling kit, fitting all '06 to '18 four-wheel-drive Ram 1500s, excluding the Mega Cabs. As always, guys, thank you for watching. Keep it right here at AmericanTrucks for all things Ram.
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Features, Description, Specs & Installation
High-Quality Spacers. If you want a true 3.0 inch level lift in your Dodge RAM 1500 4WD, then the MotoFab 3.0 inch Front Leveling Kit is perfect for your truck. These spacers are the best on the market today and you’ll benefit from a quality lift in your truck with spacers that won’t crack over time like welded spacers.
Durable Finish. These spacers will last for the long haul with their heavy-duty billet >aluminum construction. They are precision CNC machined to provide the perfect fitment in your truck. The spacers have a strong black powder coated finish that was designed to match the OEM suspension.
Straightforward Installation. The installation does not require any strut and spacer disassembly. With general mechanical knowledge and basic hand tools, you can get the job done in approximately 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
Limited Lifetime Warranty. You will receive a limited lifetime warranty from the manufacturer which covers structural defects. Read through the warranty information to find out what specific limitations may apply.
Application. The MotoFab 3 inch Front Leveling Kit is designed to fit all 2006-2020 Dodge RAM 1500 4WD models excluding Mega Cab and 2WD models.Shop All Truck Parts And Accessories
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Fitment: 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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