(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey guys, it's Joe from AmericanTrucks and today we're gonna be taking a closer look at the Motofab 2.5-inch Front Leveling Kit fitting all 2007 to 2018 Sierra 1500s, excluding the '14 to '18 Denali models. Now, these guys right here are gonna be a great option if you're looking to improve your overall off-road performance at an extremely budget-friendly price. So, what do we have going on with these guys? Well, they're heavy-duty billet aluminum, they're CNC machined for a perfect fit. As far as the coating goes, that is a nice black powder coating, which is not just there to match the factory suspension, although it does fit in perfectly. It's also going to provide a nice layer of protection from the elements. So, all said and done these guys right here are gonna give you two and a half inches of lift at the front of your Sierra. Now the main reason people buy something like this is to dial out what's called rake. Now, all Sierras and trucks in general for that matter, they sit a little bit lower in the front, little bit higher in rear. And what that's therefore is when you have the bed loaded up or if you're towing something heavy, the truck would then level out. Otherwise, the rear of the truck would kind of droop down a little bit and that is definitely not a great look. Now, if you're not doing any towing or you don't have anything too heavy in the bed often, this is gonna be a great way to lift the front of the truck up even with the rear and it's going to greatly improve the looks of the side of your truck. Now, another great thing about a spacer kit like this one, it's going to allow you to run some larger wheels and tires. Now, we're not touching the suspension in the rear at all, so I wouldn't go too crazy here. The max I would probably recommend is a 33-inch tire. 35s, they technically do clear but as soon as you get on the trail, once you start making some turns, they are probably gonna rub. You might have to make some cuts to get it to work perfectly but just keep that in mind. Again, I would probably stick with the 33s.So, on all these are gonna sit on top of your struts and give you all those off-road benefits. Larger tires, you're gonna fix the rake, you're also going to add some clearance and get the ability to fix any droop from heavy-duty off-road gear in the front of your truck. And overall, this is just going to improve your experience when you're off-roading. Now, just to be honest with you guys, this is going to be a good starter kit, a good jumping-off point, this isn't going to be the end all be all in terms of suspension. There are plenty of $5,000 suspension kits out there that do their job amazingly, and to be honest with you better than something like this would do. Now, they should, they cost a huge amount of money, you get a little bit more out of them. Now, if you're just getting into modifying your truck, you're looking to get some overall off-road performance out of a nice budget-friendly mode, these are going to be a great, great option for you. So, I mentioned these are budget-friendly, and they definitely are for this set right here, all the hardware you need to install these, we're only looking at around 60 bucks and that is going to be a great return on investment. Basically, a really small price tag to get all that off-road performance. These are a no brainer if you're just looking at price per dollar when it comes to performance. Now, these are also made in the USA and backed with a limited lifetime warranty. Now, the install for these, not gonna be too bad, but it's definitely going to be a small test of the toolbox and skill here. I'm gonna give it around a two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter, should take you about three, four hours to get these installed on your truck. So, without any further ado, let me show you what tools you'll need and how it's done. Tools required for this install are going to be an impact or two, a rust penetrant like PB B'laster is always a good idea to have on hand, pry bar, hammer, ratchet, 21, 17, 15 and 10-millimeter sockets. I have an 8-millimeter Allen key, you will need one of these. I have mine on a socket just to speed things up a little bit, vise grips, trim panel removal tool, a wrench set including 15-millimeter, 18-millimeter, and 21-millimeter wrenches. Ratcheting wrenches will help you out a ton with this install. Last but certainly not least are gonna be the safety goggles. So, to kick off our install here, we're gonna start on the driver side and obviously, we have the wheel off. Take that off first, make sure the truck is jacked up nice and safely. Safety goggles are a good idea too. I have on some gloves, I recommend these, these just make things a little bit more comfortable. They saved me from a couple of nicks and scratches too along the way. Now let's hop into the install here. But the first thing we're going to do is take a 10-millimeter socket, we're gonna remove some brackets in here holding on our brake lines and wheel speed sensor lines. So, there's this one right here right behind our brake rotor, this is already a little bit loose, I'm just gonna take that one all the way out, slide that bracket over. And just for safekeeping, I'm gonna thread that right back in. We're gonna move back here to the upper control arm and do the same thing for this bracket as well. So, next, we're gonna move up front and get this tie rod out of the way. It's held on right here at the bottom with a 21-millimeter nut. Now, what I'm gonna do is take that completely off, then I'm gonna thread it on a little bit by hand just to protect the threads, most likely this ball joint is seized in this collar here. We're gonna be hitting this with a hammer to break the taper loose. And then we'll be able to pull this right out after we take that nut all the way off again. So, 21-millimeter socket, back that guy all the way off. And I'm just threading this back on again just to protect those threads because that is pretty much seized in there good. Now, we're gonna take the hammer here, hit this collar to break that taper so we can remove this. So, you saw it bounce a little bit there and we're free. Just gonna take the nut off and then we can slide this up and out of the way. Next up, we're going to get our sway bar out of the way. This is held on with a 15-millimeter nut up top and a 15-millimeter bolt down at the bottom here. I'm just gonna put the wrench on the nut up top and on the bottom here we're just gonna spin this to get it broken loose. Now, if you get lucky this isn't too stuck, you might be able to come in here with the impact gun and knock the rest of the threads off because there are a lot. If you can get this moving, I would recommend it. Looks like no dice. So, we're just gonna hop back to the rationing ranch. So, now it's pretty loose, we still got a decent amount of threads to go. I think we can finish this off with the impact gun. As you can see that is a lot faster. We're just gonna pop these bushings off and pull the bolt out. And then we can come in here to the link and pull that out as well. Now, next up here, we're gonna jump right over to our upper ball joint. Just like the tie rod, I'm gonna back off this nut, it's an 18-millimeter threaded back on a little bit. We're gonna hit this collar here to break this ball joint. Now, the key to this is you don't wanna thread it on too, too far because ultimately this is gonna catch the upper control arm here from bouncing up and into the shock. But you want this to be easy enough to take off by hand. So, that's gonna be a judgment call, just a couple of threads on there. Make sure it's secure when we pop this loose but easy enough to take off by hand. So, that one was a little bit more obvious than the tie rod. But that is how it's gonna pop loose. Now, we're just gonna take our pry bar here, we're gonna release some tension and then come in here and remove that nut. Now, the pry bar can come out and we can separate these too. So, now we're gonna move on to the lower portion of our state assembly held to the lower control on with two 15-millimeter bolts. When we remove the second one, just be careful because this is gonna release tension on the lower control arm here. It's gonna jump a little bit but it's not going to snap or anything. That one comes out right like so and this one is gonna release that tension. So the suspension is starting to look pretty blown apart here. The only thing that's holding on our strut assembly now are 3 18-millimeter nuts on the top of the bucket there. But before we get to those we do have to remove some plastic clips that are holding some wiring looms onto the top of the studs for those nuts. I'm just gonna get those out of the way with the trim paddle removal. Now, we're just gonna take the 18-millimeter wrench, get those 3 nuts off and out will come our strut assembly here. This is where the ratcheting wrench comes in. This thing helps a ton for this step because space is very, very limited back here. So, that's one done. I'm just gonna hit the other one in the back. We're gonna save this one up front for last because that's gonna hold the weight of this. And this is basically going to fall down as I remove this last one, and it's just easier to get to. So, that's just got a couple more threads and the strut assembly is just hanging on by those, just gonna lift up, remove that, put that nut aside and then drop out our whole strut assembly. So, next up, we're gonna jump over to the table here, and this is gonna be the easiest part, we're just going to take our spacer right here and install this on studs on top of the strut assembly, we're going to use the 17-millimeter nyloc nuts to secure them. Now, space is a little bit tight in these holes. So, I'm just gonna use the thin wall 17-millimeter socket to make sure they're started. Then we'll put that on the impact gun and tighten these down. Make sure you have the safety goggles on if you're gonna use one of these non-impact sockets. So, now this is good to go, all tightened down, we're just gonna take these bolts that come in the kit, they tighten down with an 8-millimeter Allen key. We're gonna get this in place then these are going to come down through the bucket and meet up with the threaded portions on top of our strut spacer. So, let's head back to the truck. So now we can just take our strut assembly here, we're gonna come right up through the lower control arm and I'm just gonna rest this on the lower control arm for now. Now, when you're installing this strut assembly here, the spacer is basically going to flip this 180. You wanna make sure that those threaded holes on the spacer itself line up with holes in the bucket. Now, that's all fine and good, but this is also going to flip this bushing here, which these feet on the ends are angled. So, what we're going to do is angle this strut assembly out. That should give us all we need to get these bolts back in and we're just gonna get those started in the threads and then we can install the top. So, I'm just gonna leave that a little bit loose. We're gonna get the other one in and before we tighten these down, we're gonna hop up to the top. So, now what we're going to do is come up to the top and we're gonna get our spacer in the bucket. Should just take a little push like so, then we're gonna take those bolts that I mentioned earlier on the table, run those down through the top of the bucket to meet up with the threaded portions on the spacer.So, now that we have all three of those bolts threaded into our spacer and started here, we're just gonna take our 8-millimeter Allen key and tighten those 3 down. That's one done, we're just gonna hit the other two as well. So, that's the top sorted, now we can jump back down to the bottom and hit those two 15-millimeter bolts. And as we tighten these two down, you'll see that this foot here is going to flatten out against the lower control arm and that's exactly what we want. Next up, we're gonna turn our focus back to the upper ball joint here, what we're gonna do is just get a pry bar on that upper control arm around one of the coils on the springs. We're gonna get that in position right now. I'm just gonna leave that sit, and what we're going to do here is take the whole assembly and just put that thing up to the ball joint. And one thing I do wanna note, you wanna make sure this ABS line is over top of this upper control arm. Now, if you forgot that step, you could always disconnect it up here and feed it back through. But once you have everything lined up, just gonna work that down and in. That is looking perfect. We're just gonna take our 18-millimeter nut and feed that back on. So, now I have the nut on a couple of threads, we can release the pry bar and tighten that down with the 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. So, that's the hard part out of the way. Next up is going to be our sway bar, we're just gonna put it in the end link, come up with the bolt and we're gonna have to pull down a little bit on this and then we're going to come in with our bushing and 15-millimeter nut up top. Now it is putting up a little bit of a fight so I'm just gonna come in with pry bar again, pull down on that sway bar just to get the nut started. And just like before, we're gonna tighten this down with a 15-millimeter wrench and socket, don't need to go too tight here just enough to mushroom out those bushings.Next up is going to be our tie rod here. This is going to go right back into the collar it came out of and tighten down with its original 21-millimeter nut. So, as you can see, that is spinning that ball joint pretty bad if you look at the threads right there. So, what we're gonna do in a case like this is break out the 21-millimeter wrench and in my other hand, I have pair of vise grips and we're just gonna clamp down and get those couple of threads. And that's pretty much seated, we're just gonna give it a little bit of a hit with the impact gun for good luck. Now, last but certainly not least, we are going to reattach our brake line brackets with the 10-millimeter bolts from earlier. And again, both of these are 10-millimeters. Now, the install is gonna be the same exact thing on the other side. But guys, that is gonna do it for my review and install of the Motofab 2.5-inch Front Leveling Kit fitting all 2007 to 2018 Sierra 1500s excluding the '14 to '18 Denali models. Thank you guys for watching. Subscribe for more videos like this one. And as always keep it right here at AmericanTrucks for all things Chevy and GMC.
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Features, Description, Specs & Installation
Stand Out from the Rest. Improve your Sierra 1500’s off-roading performance with the raised ground clearance and leveling of the Moto Fab 2.50 Inch Front Leveling Lift Kit. It is specially designed to aid your stock suspension and comes with CNC parts machined out of billet aluminum. And as an added touch, they are powder-coated with black to match your factory suspension. This ensures that your off-roading experience is unmatched in both performance and style.
Spacers with Superior Strength. If you’re looking for a good leveling kit, the Moto Fab 2.50 Inch Front Leveling Lift Kit comes with the strongest spacers available on the market. Unlike welded spacers, these ones are fashioned to be tough and durable — guaranteeing the top quality your vehicle deserves.
Top Class Quality with Hassle-Free Installation. Additionally, installing the Moto Fab 2.50 Inch Front Leveling Lift Kit can easily be done in 1-2 hours, without any strut/coil disassembly necessary. What’s more, all the needed hardware and instructions comes complete with the kit. Lift spacer thickness and lift is not a 1 to 1 ratio due to the suspension geometry.
Sold as Is. Moto Fab Lifts products are provided “as is” and without warranties of any kind, whether expressed or implied. Please visit the manufacturer’s website to see the full terms.
Application. The MotoFab 2.50 Inch Front Leveling Kit was designed to fit all 2007-2020 GMC Sierra 1500 models, excluding 2014-2020 AT4 and Denali models.
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Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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