Talk to a Ram 1500 Sales Tech
1-888-706-1096
M-F 8:30A-11P, Sat-Sun 8:30A-9P
$20K Sweeps! 10 Chances to Win! Enter Daily >

Bilstein 0 to 2.60-Inch B8 6112 Front Suspension Leveling Kit (19-24 4WD RAM 1500 w/o Air Ride, Excluding TRX)

Item R130358
Verify parts fit and get product recommendations.
Ram 1500 Sales Techs: Connect Now M-F 8:30A-11P, Sat-Sun 8:30A-9P
$0.00
Our Price

$826.00 (kit)

FREE Shipping Market Price $949.99 You Save 13% ($123.99) Up to 10% off for Military & First Responders! See Details

Will this fit your Vehicle?

Select a different vehicle Help?
Update or Change Vehicle
Ship to: Ashburn - 20149
Sorry, please enter a valid US or CA postal code
We're sorry, zip can't be updated at this time.
Recommended Install Shops
How It Works
Install Shops are available near Ashburn - 20149

Add Local Shop Installation

Total cost of service $999.00
    Create a list
    Add to New List

    Saved - View your saved items

    We're sorry. We couldn't save this product at this time.

    or use

      Product Videos

      Jake here for American Trucks, and today I'm taking a look at the Bilstein B8 6112 Front Suspension Leveling Kit, for 2019 and newer RAM 1500s. Before we dive in too deep, just wanna take a moment to note that these are not gonna fit on the TRX, and they're also not gonna be compatible if your truck has the factory air suspension.If you're looking for the ultimate in control and improved response to go along with your leveling kit, then this setup from Bilstein is gonna be just right for you. These are a super-high-quality setup that give you not just an improvement in the overall driving experience, but they also function as a leveling kit, which gives you more clearance, more overall wheel travel, and gives you the ability to fit larger wheels and tires, and that makes them pretty unique in the market.I try not to mince words when it comes to suspension modifications, because they are so important. When it comes to getting some kind of lift or level on your truck, yes, we all want that look, but it should ride well too, and nobody does ride and handling better than Bilstein. Now, I've had Bilsteins on several of my own vehicles, and they never fail to impress. And these 6112s, in particular, have some really cool features, the biggest of which is that you can adjust the physical height of where the spring perch sits, effectively giving you either a totally factory ride height, or up to a 2.6-inch level. These grooves here on the shock body allow for adjustment with this snap ring, and you can have these set totally stock level by setting them here at the bottom, or you can crank it up and essentially get a 2.6-inch level by putting them at this very top groove. All it does is change where the spring perch itself will sit. It's a super easy way to level out your truck, and you don't need anything additional, no blocks or anything. And if at some point you wanna set things back to your stock ride height, it's a pretty simple process too.You also get brand-new springs in this kit, to accommodate for that additional height. That 2.6-inch level is also gonna allow you to fit larger wheels and tires. 33s are gonna fit just fine here with no issues, as you can see on our truck. And you may be able to squeeze some 35s on as well, depending on your wheel offset and the thickness of the tread on your tires. Now, having that adjustability is really cool, but you've gotta have some seriously solid damping to match, otherwise, the ride is gonna be severely compromised. But of course, Bilstein has you covered here. The B8 6112s feature digressive valving technology, and that's gonna allow the shocks to almost instantly respond to impacts and varying different road surfaces. So, inside here, there are self-adjusting deflected disc valves, and that's gonna allow for some more variability in rebound, compression, and in travel overall. And all that is just gonna add up to more control on the street or the trail.So, despite these being nonadjustable monotube shocks, without anything like a remote reservoir, the damping here is really excellent, and you can definitely feel the difference in body control versus your stock shocks. Now, these aren't gonna ruin the ride quality by any means. In fact, it stays pretty much the same, just a bit more on the firm side, and again, more controlled, because Bilstein custom tunes the damping, and in this case, the spring rates too, for each individual application, so you can be sure that they're gonna be well-suited to your truck. So, this isn't a setup that really compromises in any way. Now, Bilstein does offer matching rear shocks too, and we also have them available on our site, so it's not a bad idea to do all four at the same time. Get the most outta your setup.Construction, as is the usual with Bilstein's offerings, is excellent as well. You get a 60-millimeter-diameter shock body, and it's zinc plated for durability and good looks. Now, inside here are chromed and hardened piston rods, and that self-adjusting disc valve we were discussing a moment ago. The springs are made from cold-wound steel, and they feature this durable black coating for good looks and longevity. You also get new spring seats in the kit, and these are made from billet aluminum. Plus, there's all new OEM-grade hardware, some bump stops, and basically everything you need to replace your OEM shocks. Now, Bilstein also backs these up with a lifetime warranty against defects, and I can tell you from experience that they're pretty darn good about honoring that.When it comes to the price, this kit is gonna come in at about $875, and it is gonna make it one of the most expensive front leveling kits out there. However, it is important to keep in mind that this is far beyond your typical leveling kit that's just a set of spacers. Here, you're getting those shocks, the springs, all that hardware, and you have that adjustability to boot. Not to mention, all the good damping tech that Bilstein has baked in here. So, if you want something that's gonna go far beyond just leveling out the stance of your truck, this is absolutely worth your attention.Installation is gonna get a 3 out of 3 on our difficulty meter, and it should take you about four hours to complete the process. Now, you are gonna need access to a spring compressor, and you're gonna need to swap some pieces over from your stock struts, or get new ones, so this is a bit of an involved process. Now, if you feel comfortable disassembling suspension components, and you've got access to a spring compressor, you can certainly do this at home. Just be aware that it's gonna get a bit involved. And with that, let's head over to the install bay, and we'll show you the process.Tools used for this install include an impact gun, a ratchet, an 8, 13, 18, 19, 21, 24, and 36-millimeter socket, a 16-millimeter ratcheting wrench, a 21-millimeter wrench, an adjustable wrench or a pair of pliers, a pair of snap ring pliers, a clip removal tool, a caliper hook, a ball peen hammer, a torque wrench, and a spring compressor, and a floor jack.Hey, everybody. Today we're gonna be showing you how to install this Bilstein suspension kit on our 2019 RAM 1500. Now, as you can see, I've got everything in this corner already taken apart, including the upper control arm. Now, this is not necessary to take out, but I like to on this truck just because it gives me a little extra room, and it's only two bolts. So, before we get into the installation process, let's have you take a look at a clip of how to get to this point. So, we'll show you that now, then we'll come back and get into the install.All right. The first thing we're gonna do is take out the lower strut mounting bolt here. So, this is a 21-millimeter on the bolt head, and the nut on the other side is a 24. So, I'm gonna get my air gun with the 24-millimeter socket on it, and I've got my 21-millimeter wrench, so we're gonna go ahead and pop that right out now. And once we do that, we're gonna go ahead and continue with the rest of the disassembly, taking all this stuff out so we can get our strut out.All right. So, we're gonna start by undoing this lower strut mounting bolt. Again, this is a 21-millimeter on the bolt head, so I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter wrench on that side. I'm gonna take my impact gun on this side with the 24-millimeter socket on it. We're just gonna loosen this up. And that nut should come off, and that bolt should come right out, just like that. We're gonna save this hardware, because we are gonna... We may reuse this later.All right. Next, we'll go ahead and loosen up our brake lines up here, and we can start disassembling the rest of it. Before we go any further, I'm gonna go ahead and release this wheel speed sensor cable, because I wanna get a little bit of slack on this, and we're also gonna be replacing this upper control arm, so I need to have some slack on this line. So, you have one clip here that just pops out, and then two more. One here on the upper control arm, and then another one further up here on the frame. I'm gonna release all three, so that we have quite a bit of slack on this. Now, this one, you can just pop off like that. The other two are gonna require either some kind of flathead screwdriver or a clip removal tool like this one. I'm gonna go ahead and pop that one off. I'll do the same thing up here.Next, we're gonna take off the nut on the bottom of our sway bar end link here. This is an 18-millimeter nut, so I'm just gonna take my gun. Once we've got that on, we'll just loosen it up. Now, this may not separate until we lower this lower control arm, but hang onto this nut, because we are gonna reuse it later. All right. The next thing I'm gonna do is loosen this nut on the bottom of the ball joint on our upper control arm. Now, we wanna do this right here in this step, because we've still got stability from this tie rod end being connected. So, I'm gonna get this nice and loose, but not take it all the way off. Then, we will loosen our tie rod end, and then we'll separate this ball joint right here. So, I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter wrench right here, and just loosen this guy up. So, we're gonna get this down to the point where it's just hanging on by a couple of threads, so we have some maneuverability in here.Next, what we're gonna do, again, is go down here, and we're gonna loosen up this tie rod end, so that we have some movement on the knuckle when we're done. Then, once we've got that done, we'll come back up here, we'll separate the ball joint from the knuckle itself, and then we can move on with the rest of the process. So, next, we're going to release that nut on the bottom of our tie rod end here. So, again, this is just a 21-millimeter nut. Take that on the impact gun here. Again, hang on to that, because we're going to reuse it.All right. Now that we've got everything we need loosened up, we're gonna go ahead and separate the ball joint from the knuckle here. Now, I've taken a floor jack and supported the lower control arm because I don't want this to just fall out of the way, but I do wanna get this to separate. So, I'm gonna take my ball peen hammer here, and I'm gonna smack this guy, just like that, till it separates. Now, you may have to do a little bit of whacking on this. If you have a ball joint separator, you can also use that here, but the hammer method usually works pretty well. Just make sure that you're hitting on the knuckle itself, not the control arm or the ball joint itself here.So, now that we've got that done, we're gonna go ahead and release this nut here. We can take this guy off. And again, we're holding onto this because we're gonna need it again, and we'll be able to separate these guys out. So, again, this is where the floor jack comes in handy, because I'm just lowering it down, so that we can get that out, and our tie rod end will come out as well. Once you've got the tie rod end out, I'd recommend taking that nut and putting it back on here, so that you don't lose track of what goes where. Just gonna set that aside, make sure everything's coming out real nice. And that's our washer from the ball joint up here.All right. Now, as you can see, once everything kinda separated, we got a lot of movement here, especially on the knuckle. So, I've gone ahead and taken my floor jack. You can use a jack stand, whatever you want, just to support this, so the whole thing's not gonna come pulling down, because it is also hanging on by this soft brake line here, which we have not undone, because that's gonna require a whole lot of other stuff that we don't need to do. So, once you've got that supported, we can go ahead and start taking the strut out. So, we're gonna go up there and undo the three bolts at the top of the strut next.Next, I'm going to remove the three nuts at the top of the strut so we can remove the strut from the truck itself. These are just 16-millimeter nuts, so I'm gonna take my ratcheting wrench here, get all three of these broken loose. And now that I've got them loose, I'm just gonna go ahead and start taking 'em out one by one. Once all three of those are free, we can get ready to remove the strut from the truck. All right. Now we have everything undone that we need to do, so it's time to take the strut out of the truck. So, we have to do a couple of things here. First is I'm gonna brace my hand on the top of this knuckle here, because I don't want this to fall out. I don't want it to pull the axle out of the CV joints here. And I also don't wanna put too much pressure on this soft brake line, because this one on this side is pretty short. However, we are gonna need some clearance. So, what I'm gonna do is hold this knuckle, and then I'm gonna lower down my floor jack, so I have this lower control arm kinda out of the way. Then I can push down on it, and I can pull the strut out, starting with the bottom, and then just take it out this way. So, I'm gonna go ahead and do that now.So, again, grabbing that knuckle and bracing it here. I also kinda have my knee underneath of this brake caliper. Now, if you want some extra clearance and you wanna do that, you can unhook this caliper on this side, set it out of the way. But for sake of simplicity, we're just gonna do it like this. So, again, I'm gonna gently lower my floor jack, keeping an eye on this brake line and our axle. All right. Once I've got that pretty much out of the way, you'll see there's a little bit of play on this lower control arm here. That should be just enough to get our strut out. Now, if yours is dropped down like ours has, like this, you're gonna wanna go back up with it first, and pull it down just a little bit on that lower control arm, and pull the strut out. Once we've got that done, I'm gonna go ahead and jack up this lower control arm again, to take the pressure off of the axle and that soft brake line.All right. Now that we have our strut out of the way, because we're replacing the upper control arm with this kit, we're gonna have to go ahead and undo these bolts on either side. Now, the nice part is they've got these little tabs on the back, which we are gonna reuse, that are gonna keep these nuts from spinning, so we can just put a wrench on the outside. Now, these are 21-millimeter bolts. I'm gonna use my breaker bar because these guys are a little tight here. Just get this one started, because they are pretty darn tight. And there's not a lot of clearance in here to get a gun in. All right. Once I've got that one loose, I'll go ahead and do the same thing on the other side, and I'll start taking these out.All right. And that one's coming loose already pretty quickly. So, now I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter wrench. I'm just gonna work these guys loose. You'll see that tab is gonna move down here, hold the nut in place, and allow us to just take this bolt right out. All right. Once we've got that bolt out, we'll do the same thing on the other side. We are gonna retain these. We're gonna need these for the new ones, so make sure you set them aside. All right. We're gonna do the same thing over here. Now that we've got that broken loose, we'll let that tab do some of the work for us. Once we've got that loosened up most of the way, you should be able to just back it out with your hand. You can relieve some of the tension by picking up that control arm. Again, we're gonna hold onto that, so we'll pick it up off the floor, pull the bolt out, and we can remove our upper control arm. All right. So, to get our caliper off, I'm gonna pull off this bolt and this one right here. Again, just taking my 21-millimeter, backing those out. All right. Once that's loose, we can pull this off in one shot. We'll take our caliper hook here, and we're gonna hang it right on the frame, right here. Just like that.So, next we're gonna undo this axle nut here. This is a 36-millimeter bolt, so I've got my big old 36-millimeter socket on here, just on our impact gun, and we're just gonna loosen this up. I'm not gonna take it out all the way, because I need to get a little bit of room on it to bang this out, so we can pull the axle and separate it from the knuckle. All right. I'm gonna back this on a couple of threads here, just so that I can get this later, and we can get this out. Okay. Now that this is loose, I'm gonna take my floor jack and I'm just gonna start to lower the knuckle a little bit. Just go slow with this, because it is gonna fall. And if you need to, you can take your hammer here, couple of hits, and that should start to back the axle out. So, once that's moved like ours has, I'm gonna take this nut off, set that aside, then I can continue to lower my knuckle down, and the axle will pull out.Now, again, this should give us just enough room to get our new strut on here. Again, if you need a little bit more room, just tap there on the shaft. I believe that should give us enough room. Just watch this ABS line, too, when you go to pull this out, so you're not putting a ton of extra pressure on it. If you need to, you can unhook it a little bit further up, but ours is good for where it is right now. Now that we've got everything apart, we can start the assembly process. So, the first thing we're gonna do is actually jump ahead and put the strut in so we can start putting this back together, and then we'll go ahead and put on the upper control arm.All right. Now that we have our factory strut out, the next thing we need to do is mark this, because we are gonna be reusing this top mount here and this piece for the top of the spring. So, what you need to do is note the orientation of this. So, the top hat comes out. It's directional, so this part that is pointed is gonna face the outside of the truck, and that is gonna be totally perpendicular to the bracket down here. So, I'm gonna take my sharpie and I'm just gonna mark right down here, so that all of this stays aligned. All right. So, again, we're just gonna take our sharpie, I'm gonna mark this right down the center here. So, I've got the top mount and this part of the spring mount here all lined up. I'm also gonna make another mark over here, so where our spring perch sits aligns with this top mount as well, just to give myself another point of reference. All right. Once you're satisfied with those marks, we can go ahead and set this aside, and we're gonna do a couple things to our new shock first.All right. So, the next thing we're gonna do is start prepping our new shock. Now, you'll notice that there are different indentations on here, and there's a snap ring that goes around the bottom here. This is gonna be for our spring perch so we can adjust the ride height for the front end of the truck. For our purposes, we're gonna set this all the way at the top. So, what you're gonna need is a set of snap ring pliers, and we're just gonna pry this open and slide it up these two notches, get it at the top one here. Now, I'm gonna go ahead and do this in our vise on the table behind me, just because it makes it a little bit easier for me to get it in and for you guys to see. So, I'm gonna put this in the vise, we'll show you how to do that, and then we'll move on to the rest of it.Now that I've got my shock in the vise, I'm gonna go ahead and move this snap ring up. Again, we're gonna put this at the top level for ours, because we want the most lift we can get. So, I'm gonna take my snap ring pliers here and I'm just gonna gently pry this guy out. Now, this is a bit of a delicate operation. It may take you a couple of tries. Just be patient. I've found that holding the bottom of it also does help. These are a little bit fragile, so if you end up having to go one at a time, you can. All right. Check and make sure you've got that in all the way around, which, ours looks good here. And while I've got this in the vise, you don't have to hold it, I'm gonna take my new bump stop and I'm gonna slide this onto the shaft of the shock absorber. This is gonna take a little bit of doing, which, again, is why I'm doing it here. I'm just gonna get that past the top of the shaft here. All right. That should be good. And we got one more thing we gotta do here before we head over to our spring compressor.All right. Last thing we're gonna do over here is go ahead and set our spring perch into place. So, this big lip goes up top, and there's a little channel that sits right on that snap ring. Now we can set that down. Now, there is one other thing that Bilstein typically wants you to do here, and that is to trim this boot. Now, this is out of our stock shock absorber. I already went ahead and took one of the other struts apart so you could see this. Now, Bilstein wants you to trim quite a bit of this off, but because we are gonna be returning our truck to stock, we are not gonna do that. So, we are just not going to include this when we reassemble the new strut. So, this is the time at which you would wanna make sure that you have the measurements ready, so when we disassemble the shocks, you can go ahead and make this trim. But, since we're not gonna do that, we're just gonna set that aside. We're gonna grab our new spring and our new shock, along with our old strut. We're gonna head over to the spring compressor so we can start putting this new one together.All right. Now we've got our old strut over here in our spring compressor, so what we're gonna do is make sure this is nice and secure. I've already gone ahead and checked everything with this. Now, we're gonna compress this, get that spring nice and compressed. We're gonna undo our bolts so we can disassemble this, take the shock out, and take apart what we need here, and then we can start to reassemble the new one. So, I'm just gonna go ahead and start compressing this. All right. Once you've got that compressed, we can go ahead and loosen the bolt at the top here, so we can start to take this apart. All right. So, I'm gonna use my 18-millimeter pass-through socket here. This is really handy, if you don't have one of those. And then an 8-millimeter deep socket on an extension here, to hold the shaft of the shock absorber in place while I do this. I'm just gonna break this loose.Now that we've got that nice and loose, what you can't see is I have a floor jack under here to hold the shock up, so I'm gonna go ahead and drop that down. I can pull my shock out, and then we'll release the tension on the spring. So, we'll go ahead and I'm gonna loosen up my floor jack here. Once that drops out of the way, I can just pull the old shock out, and we'll set that aside because we're not gonna be using that. Next, we can go ahead and release the tension on the spring. All right. Now that we've got that out, we can go ahead and slowly release tension on our spring here, because again, we're gonna be using the new one that's provided in the kit, but we're gonna be reusing this top mount. Okay. Now that we've got that released, we can go ahead and pull this assembly off. We can set our spring aside.All right. Now that we've got everything apart, we gotta take off the parts that we're gonna reuse. So, we're pulling off this top mount here, sliding that out. And we're also going to reuse the spring perch. So, we're gonna keep that. Now, again, we are not gonna be using this boot, because Bilstein does want you to trim it. So, this is the point at which you would go ahead and make the cut that you need. Again, since we're returning our truck to stock, we are not gonna make that cut, so we're just gonna leave this one out for the time being. So, now that we've got that out, we can go ahead and put our new spring in here, and we can start getting everything assembled.All right. Now that we've got our new spring set up in the spring compressor here, I'm gonna take my top hat and the spring perch that we just took out. I'm gonna make sure my marks line up on both sides. I'm gonna set this in here, making sure that the top of the spring sets in this part of the spring perch. Once we've gotten that where we want it, we can go ahead and adjust this, get our spring compressor into place, so we can start compressing this, and getting the new shock in. All right. Now that we've got everything set, we can go ahead and start compressing this spring. All right. Once we've got some compression on that, we can go ahead and get our new shock, and start getting that into place.All right. Now that we've got our spring compressed, we can go ahead and put our shock into place. So, I'm just gonna feed this up, nice and gently, and get that about where it needs to be. Now, again, I'm using a floor jack here to give me what is essentially another set of hands, kinda keep that in place. Now, the important thing to remember is the orientation here, is that we need to get this bolt perpendicular, completely perpendicular to our mount down here on the bottom. All right. Once I've got that pretty well aligned, I'm gonna go ahead and take the new nut that comes with the kit, get that in and get it started. This is also an 18-millimeter, just like the one that we took out of our stock shock.So, I can put my pass-through socket on there. Also gonna get my 8-millimeter on, to hold the shaft in place. And we can just start tightening this down. So, again, as we're tightening this, it's really important to remember that we need to make sure our bottom bracket is completely perpendicular with this forward-facing pin here. So, right now, I've still got some wiggle room on it. And as you can see, everything's kinda moving around a little bit still. As we start to get things tightened up, I wanna make sure I make my final adjustments. All right. Now we can go ahead and take this off. Pull out our sockets. And we're just gonna check our orientation here, and that looks pretty dead-on to me. So, as long as you're satisfied with that, we can go ahead and start to release the tension on the strut assembly.So, now I've gone ahead and just double-checked my orientation. You should still have a little bit of wiggle room here if you need to make some adjustments, but I'm pretty satisfied with how ours turned out. So I'm gonna go ahead and start to release the tension. Again, just doing this nice and slowly, keeping an eye on things as we go. And that should straighten itself up pretty nicely there. Let me check that our spring has seated nicely on the perch here. And it looks like it has. Orientation looks good. All right. So, once we're good with that, I'm gonna leave just the tiniest bit of tension on here, to make sure that this is not gonna go anywhere, so that I can torque the nut at the top here. All right. Again, I'm leaving our newly-formed strut assembly here in our spring compressor, just because I wanna have a little bit of purchase on this so it's not gonna go anywhere while I torque that top nut. You don't wanna have any compression on the spring. Again, this is just kinda being held in here like this. So, we're gonna torque this to 34 foot-pounds, again, using our 18-millimeter ratchet here. Really shouldn't take too much to get that done. All right. So, we're all set there. So, we can take this out, go ahead and put it in the truck.All right. Before we get our strut in, there is one last thing we have to do, and that is to swap out this bracket for our wheel speed sensor line. So, I'm just gonna take my 13-millimeter socket on my impact wrench, loosen this guy up, set the old one aside. We're gonna put on our new one that comes in the kit, using that same bolt. Get that lined up there. Then we'll just go ahead and tighten it down. All right. Once that's done, we can proceed with putting in our new strut. All right. Now we can go ahead and put our strut in. So, we're just gonna go ahead and do the reverse of how we took it out. We're gonna feed it in up here, getting those bolts lined up. And then, just push down on our knuckle a little bit, and get that mostly in place.All right. Next thing we're gonna do is put in the lower strut mount bolt. So, I'm just gonna get this mostly into position here, and then feed that bolt most of the way through. Then we'll go ahead and start the nut on the backside of it. I'm not gonna tighten this down because we still want some adjustability while we start getting everything aligned, but I just wanna get that in there so we have this mostly where it needs to be. All right. Next thing I'm gonna do is put our upper control arm back into place. So, I'm just gonna line that up. We'll go ahead and put our bolts through. Just let that hang for a second while we get our nuts with the tabs on them. All right. And once we have those started, we're gonna tighten these up a little bit more so we have a little bit of tension on this, then we can go ahead and start moving [inaudible 00:30:34] with the rest of it.So, I'll take my 21-millimeter ratcheting wrench, make sure I'm going the right way, and start to tighten these up. Once we start to get some tension on this, I'm gonna hold the control arm roughly where it's gonna be, and that should kinda hold itself up while we tighten up the other side. Again, I'm not tightening these all the way, because I wanna have a little bit of leverage here, but I also want some tension on this so that when I do up my upper ball joint here, we've got a little bit of tension. So, now that that is mostly where I think it needs to be, we can go ahead and start putting the knuckle back together.Next, we're gonna bring our knuckle back together by putting the axle back into place. So, I'm gonna take my axle, and as I move the knuckle up, I'm just gonna move this around until the splines seat properly. This is really important, so make sure you've got them going. They should not fight you at all. Should just go right in like that. Once I've got that pretty much where I need it to be, I'm just gonna take my floor jack, kinda support that, so the weight is not pulling on the axle. I'll take the big axle nut here. Go ahead and get that started. I'll take my 36-millimeter socket here and just tighten this down. Once we've got that done, we can proceed.Next, we're going to put our upper ball joint back into place, so I'm just gonna move my knuckle here. Get that seated most of the way down. I'll just get the nut and start that mostly by hand. Now, again, like most of the things here, we're not tightening it up all the way just yet. I'm gonna get it as close as I can, but we're gonna wanna put a little bit more leverage on this first. So I'm gonna go ahead and put on the tie rod end first, then we'll come back and tighten this up.Next, we're going to put our tie rod end back into the knuckle. So, I'm just gonna take that nut right off here, slide that pin all the way through, get that started, with a 21-millimeter socket on it, and tighten that down. Next, I'm gonna go ahead and put the nuts back on the top mount for the strut, so I'm just gonna go ahead and get these started. Then I'm gonna take my 16-millimeter ratcheting wrench and start to tighten these down. This is gonna start to pull everything up into place and get it where it needs to be. Check all three of those. Make sure they're all nice and tight [inaudible 00:33:42]. Great. Next, we'll go ahead and tighten up our ball joint.Next, we'll go ahead and tighten up our upper ball joint. I'm just using my 21-millimeter open-ended wrench here. Gonna tighten this up. Now, if that shaft starts to spin as you're tightening this up, you can use an adjustable wrench, another wrench, or a socket of an appropriate size, just to keep that in place. But ours stayed put this time, so we're gonna get that nice and tight. We can go on and tighten the upper bolts for this upper control arm. Now that we have our upper control arm where we need it to be, and our ball joint done up, we can go ahead and tighten these bolts the rest of the way. It really shouldn't take too, too much. Now those are good. We'll go ahead and do the lower shock bolt, our sway bar end link, put our caliper back on, and then we're pretty much ready to go.Next, we're gonna tighten our lower strut bolt. So, I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter wrench on the head of the bolt here, and then a 24-millimeter socket on my impact gun, and then tighten this up. While we're back here, we're gonna go ahead and put our lines back into place. So, with that new bracket, I'm just gonna slide that grommet right in. Make sure we've got a little bit of slack on it, which we do. So, we can go ahead and put the other clips back in as well.All right. Next, we can go ahead and put this clip back into place on the upper control arm, and the other one back into place up here by where the upper control arm mounts are. Now, there was another clip that is on the soft brake line here. We're not gonna do that because we don't have enough slack to get it over there because of the way this bracket, this new bracket has mounted. So, we're just gonna make sure we got everything clear. It's clear of the suspension, it's clear of the knuckle, and we have enough slack on here for it to move, so we should be good to go. Next, we'll go ahead and put our caliper back on. Then we'll do up our sway bar end link, and then we're pretty much set to go.Next, we're gonna go ahead and put our caliper back into place, so I'm just gonna pull it off of our hook here, set it back into place over the rotor, and we'll take our bolts and get them started. Now, I found with these calipers on this truck in particular, it's easier to get the bottom one started first, then you can kind of articulate this one into position. Now that we have those started, we can just take our 21-millimeter socket and tighten 'em down. All right. Now I can tighten up our caliber bolts. And same thing on the bottom. Now all that's left to do is our sway bar end link. Next, we're gonna do our nut on the sway bar end link here. Just get that started by hand. I'll take my 18-millimeter socket on my impact gun, and just tighten that up.One thing I wanna make a note of is that a trick that I found in doing this truck specifically with these kits is waiting to do those sway bar end links until the very end, until you've got both sides of the truck done. Because if you go ahead and tighten this one up with this newer, larger strut on it, and then you go and try and do the same thing on the other side, work it from the stock strut on, it might get a little tight. So, I found that it's easier to, when you undo them, leave them undone until you've got both sides of the truck back together, then go ahead and just tighten those up. But once you've got everything done here, go back, make sure everything is nice and tight, everything looks good and you've got no clearance issues, and then you're gonna repeat this same process on the other side of the truck.That's gonna wrap it up here for our review and install of the Bilstein 0 to 2.6-inch B8 6112 Front Suspension Leveling Kit, fitting 2019 and newer four-wheel drive RAM 1500s without air ride, excluding the TRX. Thanks so much for watching. And remember, for all things RAM, be sure to keep it right here at americantrucks.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Off-Road Suspension Leveling Kit
      • Front Lift Height of 0 to 2.6 Inches
      • Features Front 60 mm Zinc Plated Snap Ring Grooved Body Front Shocks
      • Features Front Custom Matched Cold Wound Coil Springs
      • Features Gas-charged Monotube
      • Uses Billet Aluminum Spring Seats
      • Professional Installation Recommended
      • Fits 2019-2024 4WD RAM 1500 with no Air Ride, Excluding TRX

      Description

      Off-Road Suspension Leveling Kit. Gear up your RAM 1500 for the trail with this Bilstein 0 to 2.60-Inch B8 6112 Front Suspension Leveling Kit. Designed to take on tough off-road terrain, this Suspension Leveling Kit features 60mm digressive pistons for increased damping control, while its adjustable spring seat design gives way to better clearance for tires up to 33-inches.

      Hardcore Durability. Made to take on the punishing drive of the off-road, this Leveling Kit features front custom matched cold wound coil springs that resist overtime sag, while the billet aluminum spring seats provide reliable support and high impact resistance.

      Bolt-On Design. Built to be an easy upgrade from your factory kit, this Suspension Lift Kit is a direct bolt-on for many applications and utilizes the OEM top mount and spring isolators of your system for less hassle and easier mounting.

      Installation. For the safety of your hardware during removal and replacement, professional installation recommended.

      Application. The Bilstein 0 to 2.60-Inch B8 6112 Front Suspension Leveling Kit fits 2019-2024 4WD RAM 1500 with no Air Ride, Excluding TRX.

      Fitment:

      Details

      Bilstein 47-293540

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Suspension Leveling Kit
      5.0

      Customer Reviews (2)

        Brand Image

        Reviews of Bilstein Suspension products have an average rating of 4.9 out of 5

          Questions & Answers

          10 More Questions

          Will It Fit My Ram 1500

          • 3.0L V6 EcoDiesel - 20, 21, 22, 23
          • 3.6L V6 - 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24
          • 5.7L V8 - 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24