(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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What's up, ladies and gentlemen? Travis from americantrucks.com. And today I'm gonna show you guys the largest front leveling kit that you can throw in your 2002 to 2015 two-wheel-drive RAM 1500. This is the 3-inch Pro front springs spacer leveling kit from Supreme Suspensions fitting your 2002 to 2015 two-wheel-drive RAM 1500. Comes in at around the $100 price point. Super affordable kit. Pretty simple. And anything that's gonna cost more than this kit is gonna include shocks or it's gonna be a full pull suspension lift with a bunch of extra components thrown underneath there. Now, why would you want a 3-inch coil spacer kit like this as opposed to one of those lift kits and as opposed to one of those smaller leveling kits? Well, obviously, like I just said, those full lift kits, guys, they are a lot more involved, it takes a lot more time to actually install them. You need a little bit more knowledge. You're probably gonna need some specialty tools, cutting and welding and all that kind of good stuff. And of course, it's gonna be way more expensive. This is 100 bucks. Most full pull suspension lift kits come in at around the $600 price point and easily climb up to $2,000. So, that's out of the way.But more importantly, why would you want this 3-inch spacer over, say, something like a 2-inch or even a 1.5-inch spacer? Well, it's pretty simple. Obviously, you wanna get the most clearance in that wheel well so you can fit pretty much any wheel or tire that you want up to 35 inches with no rubbing or clearance issues whatsoever, which, as you can see, we were easily able to do that. Again, we got tons of clearance when we're turning the wheel full lock to lock. So, you won't have to cut anything under there if you do spring for this kit, no pun intended. And the other thing to keep in mind here is with the 3-inch kit, it actually raises the frontend just a little bit more than the rear. You're probably seeing that with me standing here next to the truck. Actually, I went ahead and I measured from the ground. Top of the front wheel well comes in at 39 inches and the back comes in at 38 inches. So, you're actually 1-inch high in the front. Now, why would you want that? Because that's technically not a level truck. Well, let's say you wanna throw in some aftermarket components on the frontend. Let's say maybe you wanna do something like a heavy-duty bumper or brush guard or a bull bar or something like that. All that stuff is pretty heavy and it might actually weigh down the frontend enough bringing it down just a little bit. So, if you wanna perfectly level truck with a bunch of heavy-duty components on the frontend, then I would recommend this 3-inch kit over, say, something like those 2-inch or those 1.5-inch kits. If that's not going to be a concern for you, then you could probably opt those, but let's face it, if you're under here doing all the work, you want the biggest bang for the buck, maybe 3 inches is the way to go nonetheless.Now, how difficult is the install? Right? I said this is a lot easier than a full pull suspension lift, and relatively speaking, yes, obviously it is. This is something you could probably do in the driveway, but, guys, I'm not gonna lie, these coils can be a pain. Trying to fight with the coil and the spacer, trying to get all that stuff back together can be a little bit of a challenge. Springs can be dangerous. And you might actually be using a spring compressor at home which, again, if you don't know how to use one, that can be pretty dangerous too. But not to worry, I'm actually gonna walk you guys through the entire install in just a minute. Something to keep in mind there. Just take your time with this install and definitely have a friend handy as well because this is gonna be a two-man, maybe even a three-man job at some parts, but you'll see that in a little bit.So, again, if you want one of the most affordable and one of the largest front leveling kits for 2002 to 2015 two-wheel-drive RAM, then Supreme Suspensions has you covered with the 3-inch kit. And if you decide to opt for 3 inches over those smaller kits, come back in a little bit, we'll break all the tools out of the toolbox, I'll show you all the specialty tools you might need and we'll get cracking on that install and we'll get this thing wrapped up.All right, guys. Before we get started, you'll need a couple of tools out of the box. You'll need some standard drive ratchets. You'll also need a 9 and 13-millimeter socket, those could be shallow or deep. I actually recommend shallow sockets. And a couple deep sockets, you'll need a 16, 18, 21 and 22-mil deep socket. You'll also need a 3/16 Allen key or Allen head socket. That's for your ABS sensor. Couple of standard wrenches including a 15, a 16 and 18-millimeter wrench. And you'll need a standard hammer as well as a dead-blow mallet to help break those stubborn ball joints loose. Plenty of optional, but very helpful tools here. You'll probably want a couple of extensions with some swivel sockets, make getting some of those nuts and bolts a little bit easier. You'll definitely want some pry bars for that coil, couple of flathead screwdrivers, again, for some plastic fittings and a couple of sensors. Obviously, very helpful to have an impact gun for that big hardware, make this whole thing go a lot quicker. And the method of our install we'll be using a ratchet strap to help secure some stuff in the lower control arms and, of course, goes without saying, some penetrating oil to help break up some rusty stuff. And we're actually gonna be using a clamp to help seat the spacer inside the coil pockets, make the install a little bit easier.Okay, guys. First thing you wanna do is grab your 13-mil socket. We're gonna remove our caliper and our pads so that we can remove our caliper bracket. You got to tackle these two bolts here on either end. Again, 13-millimeter socket and it's helpful to have an impact swivel socket if you're using a gun. You probably have some brake dust build up in here and probably a little bit of corrosion and things like that, so it's helpful to have a little pry bar to help get the caliper off the pads. All right, guys. We got our caliper hung up and out of the way on the frame rail. Now we're gonna remove our bracket from the spindle. It's held in place with these two bolts on the back here. You'll need a 21-millimeter socket for these. All right. Now that we have the bracket removed, you can pull the rotor off. If your rotor is seized up on the spindle, then you can actually spray some penetrating oil inside of there. Go ahead and tap the outside of the rotor with a rubber mallet. That should break it free.All right. Next, we're gonna tackle our tie rod end link. There's generally two ways you can go about this. You can either use a 21-millimeter deep socket to spin the nut, but if the shaft itself starts spinning, you'll actually have to hold the end of it using a 10-mil socket. And you'll need a 21-millimeter wrench to get the nut off. Now once you get the nut removed, the tie rod end might be stuck inside the lower control arm. Guys, this is an aluminum lower control arm, so you do not want to hit it with a hammer. You can gently tap the end of the stud in order to unseat it.All right, guys. Next, we're gonna tackle our sway bar end link. You need to get the nut off the top of the stud right here but the entire assembly might actually spin. So, you'll need a 15-millimeter wrench. Put it on the actual end link like so. There's little notches right here. Get that in place, then come in with a 16-millimeter deep socket, and maybe an extension and pop that nut off. All right. Once you got that nut removed, go ahead and remove this little spacer/washer as well as this rubber grommet. Rubber grommet is probably crushed and seated in there quite well, so you want a small flathead screwdriver to pry it free, just be careful you don't tear it or anything like that.Okay. Next, we're gonna tackle the upper ball joint. We'll need a 21-millimeter deep socket for this. And again, it's very helpful to have some extensions. You'll probably need an impact gun or a large breaker bar. All right, guys. Now comes the fun part. You gotta separate the upper ball joint/upper control arm from the spindle itself. Now, this spindle is also aluminum I believe, so you wanna be careful with hitting it with anything like a hammer. I'm actually gonna try using a dead-blow mallet here just so we preserve the integrity of this thing. All right. If you're not able to get it with a deadbolt mallet, you can come in with a regular hammer, but, again, you just wanna be careful with how you strike this thing because it is aluminum, it is relatively soft.All right, guys. We're almost ready to remove our shock and our coil, but before we do that, we wanna get some tension off of here. We're gonna remove this line. You'll need a 3/16 Allen key and it's helpful to have a little flathead screwdriver to pry it out of there. All right. Now we're ready to remove our shock and our coil. Now, we wanna remove the shock first, but once we do so, we're gonna be removing the damping force on the coil. The coil is gonna want to expand. So, in order to keep that thing in place, we don't have any coils going all over the place, we're actually gonna get a pole jack, we're gonna put it underneath the lower control arm. That's gonna keep everything compressed to an extent. Then we're gonna remove the top nut on our shock, then the two bottom bolts, then we can pull the shock out underneath. We'll take the tension off of the lower control arm, we'll remove our pole jack, then we should be able to get the coil out of there, but you might need a pry bar or buddy to help you.Okay, guys. Now, our shock and coil and our lower control arm are seated on top of that pole jack, so we have some tension removed. Now we can safely remove our shock. Now, you're gonna need to remove the nut on top here, that's an 18-mil nut. If you go to take the nut off with a socket, you might find that the actual stud itself spins with the nuts. So, you're actually gonna have to hold the nut in place using an 18-millimeter wrench. And you're actually gonna come in with a 9-millimeter socket and you're gonna spin the stud and that should loosen everything up. Once you have the top nut removed, you wanna crawl under here to the lower control arm, remove both of these bolts securing the shock to it. Once you've done so, you can actually pull the shock out from inside the lower control arm. To remove these bolts you'll need a 13-mil socket. Now, there is a plastic sleeve on the top of the shock. You might have to get in here and kind of compress that and squeeze it through.Okay. Once the shock is out, you can gently lower your floor jack or pole jack. You wanna take all the tension off of the lower control arm. Now as you're doing this, you'll probably feel the coil pushing against you and adding some tension there. So, get the floor jack or pole jack out of the way. Let the coil expand completely and then once you've done that, go ahead and grab a buddy, grab a very big pry bar if you will. And I'll show you guys how to get some leverage so that we can actually pull the coil out completely. All right. So, now I got a buddy here prying down on the lower control arm with me. Get that coil out of there.All right, guys. Now that we have everything removed, now it comes the fun part, and that's actually getting the coil back in place with the spacer on top. Now, there are a couple of ways to go about this and obviously, it goes without saying, you should definitely attempt this with a spring compressor if you know how to use one safely. We're not using one today. It's a specialty tool. Maybe you guys don't want to spend the money on it. Yes, this can be done without a spring compressor. Before you guys say anything, I know it'd be a lot easier with one, but we're gonna attempt this without one. So, how do we make this as easy as possible? Well, first thing you can do is you can actually seat the spacer up top here where the coil is supposed to mount on the side of the frame rail inside that top pocket. You can clamp that in place. That's gonna free that up, then you only have to wrestle the spring itself. And you also definitely wanna have a friend with you as well. The easiest way to go about this is to actually get the top of the coil resting on the spacer, and then what you wanna do is get as much leverage on this lower control arm as possible and you're gonna try and press the bottom of the coil into the rubber isolator on the bottom. It's just gonna take a little bit of work. It's gonna take a lot of time, guys. It's not super easy, but I promise you it can be done with a little bit of elbow grease and with a buddy. So, take your time, be safe, wear gloves, wear some eye pro as well. Grab a couple pry bars and let's try and get this thing in there.All right. So, we have our truck down low on the ground here, that's gonna help with us getting some leverage on this lower control arm. So, first, you wanna get this coil up here with the rubber isolator on the spacer. Go ahead and line up the end of the coil where it's supposed to rest in the rubber isolator in the lower control arm. Go ahead and come in with your pry bar and get as much leverage as possible on there. What we wanna do is just get the bottom of the coil so that it's resting inside the rubber isolator just barely. We're obviously at a really bad angle right now, but that's gonna correct itself once we start cranking the control arm back up in place. And to actually help keep the coil seated in place as well I've also got a ratchet strap back here connected to our frame rail. That's gonna help keep this thing nice and tight.All right, guys. Our coil is seated inside the rubber isolator and it's not going anywhere. Now I'm gonna slowly apply pressure to the bottom of the lower control arm using the floor jack, that's gonna compress everything so that we can get our upper ball joint in our upper control arm back into our steering knuckle. I'm also gonna use a woodblock here on my jack on the bottom. That's gonna help this thing stop from sliding around as I'm putting pressure on it. Okay. So, we slowly raise our lower control arm, we've compressed it just enough so we can get the ball joint of our upper control arm back into the top of the knuckle. Make sure you grab that 21-millimeter nut to secure it. When you go to get the nut back in, obviously, you want a pry bar so you can crank down on the upper control arm enough to get the stud through.All right, guys. The hard part is now out of the way. We're gonna have a little extra security here before we do anything else. We're gonna zip down this upper ball joint all the way just so there are no issues. Again, you'll need a 21-millimeter deep socket to tighten him down. Now, again, ball joints like to spin, so if the stud starts spinning with the nut, you're gonna have to swap out your tooling. You're gonna have to grab a 10-mil socket for the stud and a 21-mil wrench for the nut, and you'll need to spin the stud to tighten everything down, but let's see if we can get lucky.All right, guys. Next it's just pretty much bolting up everything else. So, let's go ahead and get our tie rod end link in place. Again, grab the 21-millimeter nut, thread it on there, tighten it down with that 21-mil socket. And again, if the stud starts spinning on you, swap out your tooling for that 21 wrench and that 10-mil socket for the stud. Okay. Our steering assembly's back together. We don't have end links and all kinds of stuff flying around, so now we're gonna get our shock back in place. Go ahead and feed the shock body up through the lower control arm as well as through the top pocket for the coil. Make sure that the stud comes out of the top as well, and then secure the bottom of the shock using the factory bolts. Again, you'll need a 13-millimeter socket to tighten these guys down.All right. Now when you go to throw the bolts back in place, you might find that you're hitting some resistance in there. And that's actually to be expected. There's little speed clips in here that have little threads on them for the bolts to secure to. And they're kind of in-between the rubber isolator and the lower control arm, so you might have to kind of fish it around a little bit with a screwdriver to get it to line up. Once you get it lined up, you should be able to get the bolt back in place. And again, 13-mil socket to tighten these down.Okay. Next, we're gonna install our rubber grommet as well as our washer and our nut for the top of our shock. As you can see, it's a little bit difficult getting the nut back in place because this grommet is not compressed anymore. Try and get it threaded on there as best as you can. You should be able to at least get one or two of the threads to catch. And you'll need an 18-millimeter wrench to get started as well. Once you get this thing bolted down a little bit or as much as you can without the shock body itself spinning, then you're gonna need to swap out your tooling. You're actually gonna have to grab a 9-millimeter socket and get it on top of the stud itself and hold the nut in place while you spin the stud to tighten the nut down.Next, we're gonna tackle our sway bar end link. So go ahead and get that rubber grommet on there, followed by the washer, and then lastly, the nut on top. And again, you'll need to hold the stud with a 15-millimeter wrench and you'll spin the nut on using a 16-millimeter deep socket.Okay, guys. Now we're ready to throw our brake assembly in place. But before we do that, make sure you reconnect this little sensor here. Go ahead and feed it into the bracket on the inside of the knuckle, and then seat the sensor inside of the hub assembly and then tighten it down using that Allen head bolt and a 5/32 Allen head key.All right. Now we're gonna throw our rotor in place. And in order to keep the rotor from moving around while we install the bracket, I'm just gonna throw one of the lug nuts on one of the studs and get it nice and tight. Okay. Next, we're gonna throw on our bracket for our caliper. Again, it secures to the knuckle using these two large bolts. And again, to tighten both of these bolts down, you'll need an 18-millimeter socket. And again, if you're using power tools back here, you'll definitely wanna have a swivel socket because it is a really tight fit.All right. Now we're gonna put our pads in place. Make sure you have those little tabs on the ends as well when you go to seat them inside of the bracket. All right. Next, we're gonna throw our caliper in place. And again, you'll need those two 13-millimeter bolts to secure it to the bracket. But obviously, you wanna make sure you get those pistons over both of the actual pads. Get it seated fully first. All right. Then just line up the holes. Get both of the bolts hand-threaded first, make sure they're not cross-threading. This is a floating caliper. Don't want to mess that up. And then tighten them down using your 13-mil socket.All right, guys. So, once you got your calipers and pads back in place on both sides, go head, throw your wheels on. But before you do that, just double-check everything, make sure everything is nice and tight there. We did work with a lot of components. You don't want anything loose like a tie rod end or a ball joint for that matter. But that'll wrap up the install. That also wraps up my review of the Supreme Suspensions 3-inch Pro front springs spacer leveling kit fitting your 2002 to 2015 two-wheel-drive RAM 1500. And for all things RAM, keep it right here at americantrucks.com.
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Supreme Suspensions DGRM94FL3000
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(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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