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Mammoth 3-Inch Front Leveling Kit (06-22 4WD RAM 1500, Excluding Mega Cab)

Item R109950
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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys. Adam here with And today we're taking a closer look at and installing the Mammoth 3-inch Front Leveling kit, available for the '06 to '18 four-wheel-drive RAM 1500. You should be checking this out if you're looking to level out your truck's appearance, getting rid of the factory rake, if you're looking to add larger wheels and tires up to 35 inches on your truck comfortably, and if you're looking for some added front-end ground clearance to help with some light off-roading situations. This particular kit here from Mammoth is the 3-inch option, making it one of the largest leveling kits in the category. Now, you might be interested in why you'd want a 3-inch over, say a 2-1/2 or a 2-inch leveling kit. Well, they're all gonna do the same thing that I just mentioned, fit larger wheels and tires, add ground clearance, level out the truck, but the 3-inch option is specifically gonna be great for RAM owners who may have some added front-end weight on their truck that would otherwise sag the front-end a little bit extra. Now, things like an added off-road bumper that's made of a heavy-duty steel, those are really heavy, a lot heavier than the factory bumper and will sag your front-end down. Something like a winch plate, maybe a plow at the front-end, things that would otherwise sag your front-end. The 3-inch option gives you a little bit of extra height at the front to counteract the added weight. Now, you might also not have any of that on your front-end and might just want a little bit of a higher front-end than the rear. That's also gonna be accomplished here. Now, the 3-inch kit along with some of the other leveling kits in the category will allow for up to 35-inch tires comfortably. Now, the bigger the leveling kit, this being the 3-inch, the less you have to worry about mud terrains rubbing at full lock or in reverse and things like that.Now, there shouldn't be any modification required, especially if you have a more aggressive offset. This guy here is gonna ultimately affect some things in your suspension. Having the larger kit here like the 3-inch is gonna put a little bit more stress on your suspension components, suspension geometry, your CV angles, so that's something to keep in mind as well. You may see them wear out a little bit quicker than some of the other kits in the category just because of the height difference. You might wanna consider picking up an upgraded upper control arm, for example, to help with greater wheel articulation that's rated for something like a leveling kit or a lift kit. There are some other suspension upgrades available as well to increase the durability of those suspension components. This guy here is a CNC billet aluminum with a black anodized finish, making it one of the more affordable options in the category as well, which might seem a little bit hard to believe considering it is a larger kit, but the CNC billet aluminum isn't as expensive as something like laser-cut steel. I actually like billet aluminum because it's not gonna rust out like steel would and it's a little bit more affordable.Now, as far as pricing is concerned, because this is a billet aluminum construction and not a laser-cut steel, the price is actually super affordable coming in right around 30 bucks. I know it might sound hard to believe considering it's one of the larger kits in the category, but aluminum is just a little bit more affordable than steel.The install is gonna get two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter and you won't even need a spring compressor or specialty tools like that to get the job done. The spacer here from Mammoth is gonna sit right at the top of your factory strut assembly, so no need to take it apart, no disassembly required. Now, it's gonna take you about three to four hours from start to finish. You can tackle this in your driveway with the right hand tools on deck. I'm gonna show you guys what they look like in just a second. So what do you say we get started?All right. Tools used this install include an air gun and an impact gun, and/or a ratchet, 15, 16, and 17-millimeter deep sockets, 8-millimeter hex socket, 21-millimeter deep socket, and 15/16 deep socket. Needle-nose pliers, pry bar, hammer, flathead screwdriver, 21, 18, and 15-millimeter ratcheting wrenches are definitely recommended.All right. To kick things off, I'm gonna show you guys how to uninstall your factory strut here on our front driver side. Now, of course, you wanna get your wheel out of the way. That's step number one. We're supported on a lift, but if you're working on the floor, make sure you have a floor jack properly supporting the weight of the vehicle. Moving on from there, we'll have to disconnect the ABS lines from the knuckle and from the brake line itself just to make sure that when the knuckle drops down out of the upper control arm, we're not putting too much stress on those brake lines. All right. So for this ABS line, just follow it down to the back of your knuckle here that's connected with a plastic clip. Just gonna wiggle that back and forth till it pops up. Now, you wanna follow that guy up to the top here. That's connected to your brake line. That, you're just gonna pull apart just like that. Now we have more slack on our brake line, so we're not putting tension on them. Next up, grab a 16-millimeter deep socket and we're gonna remove the factory nut off of our sway bar end link. All right. Set that aside.All right. Next up we're gonna disconnect our tie rod end. Now, before we get started, you wanna know that this is a 21-millimeter nut. Now, in some cases, if you use an impact gun on this, the entire stud will spin in that ball joint. You may need a 10-millimeter socket and a 21-millimeter wrench to get the nut off while holding that stud steady. For our first time, I'm gonna use our 21-millimeter deep socket in my air gun to get this guy off. All right. So ours didn't give us any trouble, but that is still worth noting. Now, before I take this guy out, I'm actually gonna leave it in and just put that nut a couple of threads on just to keep the entire hub assembly from rotating while tackling the upper control arm.All right. So next we're gonna do the upper control arm to the knuckle. Now, RAM uses a castle nut here which has these open gaps all the way around and through one of the gaps going through the stud itself is a metal retaining pin. Wanna use needle-nose pliers to pull that pin straight out. All right. Set that aside. Now, for this, I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. I highly recommend picking up a set of ratcheting wrenches for this install. There's a lot of different aspects of this that ratcheting wrenches will be a lot easier to use. All right. So once we broke that loose, I can back this off with my hand. Now, big thing to remember is we have to dislodge the ball joint from the knuckle. You can see the stud didn't break free with that. So I'm gonna leave this nut on a couple of threads. We're gonna grab our hammer and we're gonna swing and tap against here to dislodge that and then we'll use a pry bar to pull it down and take our nut off. Now, for this, you wanna grab a ball-peen hammer and we're gonna tap right up against the side here of the knuckle.All right. With that dislodged, you'll see that the upper control arm moves freely in there. Let's take our nut off and it comes with that larger spacer. Once you have the castle nut and spacer out, set, those aside. All right. So from here, we can go back to the tie rod end, take that nut off, lift the tie rod end out. I like to hang it up over that sway bar end link and then put our nut back on the stud just so we don't lose it. Here we can lift the upper control arm out of the knuckle. There we go. And what I like to do is just grab the upper control arm castle nut and thread it right back on again so we don't lose it, just like the tie rod end.All right. Next up, we're gonna tackle the bottom strut bolt, holding it to the lower control arm. Now, the nut here, I'm gonna use a 15/16 deep socket on my impact gun and I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter wrench to hold the bolt head on the inside. At this point, you can grab a ball-peen hammer and just tap the end of that to pop it through. Some cases, you may be able to pull it straight out. If not, you can grab a flathead screwdriver and just stick it in there and hammer the back end of that. All right. So now we can focus on the top three strut tower nuts. Grab a 15-millimeter wrench and I'm gonna use again the 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench. Again, this really comes in handy. We're gonna loosen up these three top nuts. All right. So now our strut is free. I'm gonna use a pry bar here between the lower control arm and the strut body at the bottom to pry this guy out of position.All right. At this point, we can start assembling our 3-inch spacer. Now, the first thing you wanna start with is the spacer itself, but you wanna identify which side's up and which side is down. Now, the top side has the largest holes and smaller holes with threading on the inside. Now, the small holes with the threading on the inside are gonna be the holes in which you're gonna place your new hex bolts through to be your new studs. So what you wanna do is go to the bottom, take the new hex bolts, and you're gonna put them through the open holes and thread them into the threaded holes so that way they'll start to come through this side. From there, I'll grab my 8-millimeter hex socket and tighten that down. So that's gonna be our new stud. The new studs will still use the factory nuts to hold them into the strut tower. We'll get to that in just a little bit. From there, you wanna install the other two hex bolts. So I'm gonna thread that on, grab my socket, and gun it on. Perfect. Same thing for that last one. With those studs in place, we're ready to put this on our factory strut. So I'm gonna stand our factory strut up and the factory studs on this hat here are gonna go through the smaller holes in the bottom. Now, it'll only go on one way, so if those don't line up, just keep rotating it until they do. All right. So that drops on just like that. Now you can grab the 17-millimeter nylon lock nuts and they're gonna hold the factory studs in your factory top hat to the spacer itself. Now, what I'm gonna do is drop this guy onto the stud there, grab my 17 socket, and just get that guy started. Do the same thing for all three. Now, some guys like to do...some guys like to put a dab of blue Loctite on the studs there. These are nylon lock nuts, so shouldn't be that necessary. So once you have all three on, I'm gonna switch my 8-millimeter hex socket out for the 17-millimeter deep socket and tighten these three down. Perfect. Now, with that tightened down, we're ready to throw it back in our truck.All right. So now we can grab our strut assembly and start feeding it back into position through the top of the strut tower. Now, you might take a minute to get the new studs to go through the top there. You wanna make sure you're lining those up to the factory holes. All right. So once you get those studs through, grab your factory nut. You're gonna thread it on one of the studs just to get it to hold itself in place. All right. At that point, you can grab the other two nuts and thread them onto the back ones. All right. So the first thing I'm gonna do is pop the strut back into the lower control arm where that factory bolt's gonna go through. I like to use a pry bar for this just to help me guide this guy back in.All right. So next what we're gonna do is try to get our factory bolt through the bottom of our strut. Now, it's gonna take some finessing as far as lining these two up. What I like to do is use a pry bar and a screwdriver to help line these up. So the pry bar gets the screwdriver in there. Now, the screwdriver, I can use to move the strut into position to line up the bolt hole on the other side. All right. So the screwdriver's preventing it from popping loose and I can use this pry bar to lift up and put the bolt through the inside. All right. Screwdriver's out of the way. We can use our hammer and our pry bar to tap this guy all the way through. All right. With the stud through, grab your 15/16 nut and put that through and now we can tighten it down with our socket and wrench. All right. So now I have my 21-millimeter wrench on the bolt head and my 15/16 socket in my impact gun on the nut.All right. So now we can focus on our upper control arm, getting that back into our knuckle. We're gonna take the castle nut and spacer off. From here, we're gonna lift the knuckle into place and pull down on the upper control arm. Now, you may want a pry bar in one of the coil springs just to pry this down so you get a couple of threads coming through. All right. So the goal is just to get the castle nut on at least a couple of threads to hold it in place, and then you can let go. At this point, grab your 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench or whatever you use to take this guy off and we're gonna tighten it down. I recommend putting a pry bar in the coil spring here just in case, just to make sure it doesn't pop out.All right. So now we can take this guy out and tighten it all the way down. Now, when you're tightening this down, you wanna make sure you're taking note of where that open slot is. You wanna line that up to the hole in the studs. We just have a little bit extra to go. Perfect. Now we can put our retaining pin through. All right. So now I have my retaining pin. I'm gonna put it in my needle-nose pliers. And this can take some finesse to get in there. It's pretty tight, everything's kinda rusty. Just wanna push this straight through. And then once you do, you can take your needle-nose pliers to bend the other side. And now we know that that's not sliding out.All right. So next we'll do our tie rod end. Gonna take this nut off the tie rod. Pop this guy into position on the knuckle. All right. Take the 21-millimeter nut and thread it back on and then your socket to tighten it down. All right. So now we can take our 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench and we're gonna tighten up the three nuts at the top of the strut tower.Now, the last step of the install here is gonna be reconnecting our sway bar end link. Now, because we just added our leveling kit, the sway bar now doesn't have enough threads popping through the top to put our factory nut back on. How we're gonna beat that is lowering our truck down to the ground and use a hydraulic floor jack to jack up the bottom of the suspension assembly to bring that stud up through enough to put our nut back on. So right now let's lower the truck and get the hydraulic floor jack in place.All right. So now I got my hydraulic floor jack. I'm slowly jacking up the lower control arm and as you can see, the stud's gonna start popping its way through. All right. So I'm gonna pop that spacer back on and then our nut. Now we can grab our 16-millimeter deep socket and tighten that down.All right. Last couple of steps. We are gonna reconnect our ABS line to the knuckle and to the brake line up here. At this point, guys, you're good to repeat this exact same process on the other side and you definitely wanna make sure you're looking up the proper torque specs for your specific gen and your trim package and your model because this does cover the '06 to '18s and it can vary slightly. Once you have that taken care, throw your wheels back on, and you're good to go.That's gonna wrap up my review and install for the Mammoth 3-inch Front Leveling Kit, available for the '06 to '18 four-wheel-drive RAM 1500. This is a great way to go. Pick yours up right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • 3.0-inch Front Leveling Kit
      • Corrects Factory Rake for a Level Stance
      • Increases Front Ground Clearance
      • CNC-Machined Aluminum Strut Spacers
      • Black Anodized Finish
      • Straight Forward - Bolt-on Installation
      • Fits 2006-2022 RAM 1500 4WD Models, Excluding Mega Cab


      Eliminates Factory Rake. A Mammoth Leveling Kit will raise the front of your 4WD RAM 1500 by 3.0-inches to eliminate the original factory rake. This Mammoth Kit will not only level your RAM, but it will also increase the front end ground clearance as well.

      Quality Construction. These Mammoth Strut Spacers have been CNC-machined from aircraft grade billet aluminum for superior strength and durability. Mammoth then completes their Leveling Spacers in a durable black anodized finish for good looks and long lasting corrosion resistance.

      Straight Forward - Bolt-on Installation. Mammoth designed their Front Leveling Kit to be a straight forward bolt-on install with no cutting or drilling required. With all the necessary hardware included, this Leveling Kit can be installed in about 2 hours time.

      Application. This Mammoth 3.0-inch Front Leveling Kit is specifically engineered to fit 2006-2022 RAM 1500 4WD models, excluding Mega Cab.

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      Mammoth R109950

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      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) 51.5mm Thick Spacers
      • (6) M10x1.50 Bolts
      • (6) M10 Lock Nuts

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