FREE 2 or 3-Day Delivery on 10,000+ Items. Details

Talk to a Ram Enthusiast
M-F 8:30A-11P, Sat-Sun 8:30A-9P
New Year, New Mods! WIN $4K Enter Daily >
$20 OFF – AmericanTrucks Show View Deal>

Mammoth 2.50-Inch Front Leveling Kit (06-23 4WD RAM 1500, Excluding Mega Cab)

Item R109949
Call a Ram Enthusiast at 1-888-706-1096
M-F 8:30A-11P, Sat-Sun 8:30A-9P
Market Price $67.84 You Save 13% ($8.85)
Our Price

$58.99 (pair)

FREE Shipping on orders over $75

Open Box from $35.39

Will this fit your Vehicle?

Select a different vehicle Help?
Update or Change Vehicle
In Stock

Ship to: Ashburn - 20149
Sorry, please enter a valid US or CA postal code
We're sorry, zip can't be updated at this time.
    Create a list
    Add to New List

    Saved - View your saved items

    We're sorry. We couldn't save this product at this time.

      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys. Adam here with And today, we're taking a closer look at and installing the Mammoth 2.5 inch Front Leveling Kit available for the '06 to '18 four-wheel-drive RAM 1500, excluding the Mega Cab model. You should be checking this kit out if you're interested in three things, getting rid of your factory rake, fitting larger wheels and tires on your truck up to 35 inches, and getting additional ground clearance upfront to help with some light off-road situations.First and foremost, fitting larger wheels and tires on your truck doesn't have to be that hard. Off the line, this truck comes with anywhere from 30 inch up to 33-inch all-season tires. Ours has factory 33s. Now, if you're looking to fit up to 35s comfortably, then you'll need a leveling kit like this one. Two and a half inches is the perfect amount of front end lift to help with getting up to 35 inches without modification.With some of the more aggressive mud-terrain tires, you may experience slight rubbing at full turn depending on your wheel offset, but fitting 35s is definitely doable as you can see on our '14 RAM here. Now, when it comes to leveling out your truck's appearance and getting rid of that factory rake, 2.5 inches like this from Mammoth makes it super easy. If you're not familiar with rake, just know that it's basically your truck's front end sitting lower than the rear in order to help with some towing and hauling applications.Now, a lot of truck owners want a more even stance in which case 2.5 inches is a common leveling kit size to get that job done. Getting additional ground clearance is easily attainable with a leveling kit as well. Obviously, since you're bringing up your front end a couple of inches, you'll be able to drive right over some of the smaller obstacles you may have otherwise come in contact with at the front end. That stock front bumper and lip sit pretty low, so adding additional height can make the difference with the smaller hazards on and off-road.Now, this particular kit from Mammoth is CNC machined from aircraft-grade billet aluminum with a black anodized finish to help with corrosion and oxidation resistance. Keep in mind the physical spacer itself measures in at about 1.75 inches. But with the change in suspension geometry and spring compression, you'll achieve a final lift height of 2.5 inches. Now, if you've got some front-end accessories that are way down the front, like an off-road winch bumper, for example, you may want to consider bumping up to a 3-inch leveling kit just to offset some of that added weight to achieve the same height.The price for this kit comes in right around $60, making an extremely affordable mod that has such an impact on appearance and fitment for your truck. This 2.5-inch leveling kit is pretty mild in terms of lift size so your suspension geometry won't be under too much added stress. But you may want to consider upgrading your upper control arms in the future to help prevent long term wear on your factory ball joints.The installation for a leveling kit like this comes in at two-out-of-three wrenches on our difficulty meter. You don't need a spring compressor or any specialty tools like that because the spacer itself sits right at the top of your factory strut without needing to disassemble it. It'll take about two to three hours from start to finish and knock out both sides. Keep in mind, guys, you want to get in alignment after everything is said and done. And be sure to torque everything back down to factory spec if you're tackling it yourself. I'm going to walk you through the whole process. Let's get started.Tools using this install include a cordless impact, air gun, 15, 16, 18, 21, 22, and 15/16 deep sockets. Recommended would be a swivel socket, 8-millimeter hex socket or Allen key, flathead screwdriver, a hammer, 15-millimeter ratcheting wrenches recommended along with a 17-millimeter ratcheting wrench, 21-millimeter wrench, 15-millimeter wrench, 15/16 wrench, and a pry bar of varying sizes.All right, to kick things off, I'm going to show you guys how to uninstaller your factory strut here on our front driver side. Now, of course, you want to get your wheel out of the way, that's step number one. We're supported on a lift, but if you're working on the floor, make sure you have a floor jack properly supporting the weight of the vehicle. Moving on from there, we'll have to disconnect the ABS lines from the knuckle and from the brake line itself just to make sure that when the knuckle drops down out of the upper control arm, we're not putting too much stress on those brake lines.All right, so for this ABS line, just follow it down to the back of your knuckle here that's connected with a plastic clip. I'm just going to wiggle that back and forth till it pops up. Now, you want to follow that guy up to the top here, that's connected to your brake line. That, you're just going to pull apart just like that. Now we have more slack on our brake lines, so we're not putting tension on them. Next up, grab a 16-millimeter deep socket, and we're going to remove the factory nut off of our sway bar end link.All right, set that aside. All right, next up, we're going to disconnect our tie rod end. Now, before we get started, you want to know that this is a 21-millimeter nut. Now, in some cases, if you use an impact on this, the entire stud will spin in that ball joint. You may need a 10-millimeter socket and a 21-millimeter wrench to get the nut off while holding that stud steady. For our first time, I'm going to use our 21-millimeter deep socket and my air gun to get this guy off. So ours didn't give us any trouble, but that is still worth noting.Now, before I take this guy out, I'm actually going to leave it in and just put that nut a couple of threads on just to keep the entire hub assembly from rotating while tackling the upper control arm. All right, so next we're going to do the upper control arm to the knuckle. Now, RAM uses a castle nut here, which has these open gaps all the way around and through one of the gaps going through the stud itself is a metal retaining pin. I'm going to use needlenose pliers to pull that pin straight out. All right, set that aside. Now, for this, I'm going to use it 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench.I highly recommend picking up a set of ratcheting wrenches for this install. There's a lot of different aspects of this that ratcheting wrenches will be a lot easier to use. All right, so once we broke that loose, I can back this off with my hand. Now, big thing to remember is we have to dislodge the ball joint from the knuckle. You can see this stud didn't break free with that. So I'm going to leave this nut on a couple of threads, we're going to grab our hammer, and we're going to swing and tap against here to dislodge that. And then we'll use a pry bar to pull it down and take our nut off. Now, for this, you wanna grab a ball-pein hammer, and we're going to tap right up against the side here of the knuckle.All right, with that dislodged, you'll see that the upper control arm moves freely in there. Let's take our nut off and it comes with that larger spacer. Once you have the castle nut and spacer out, set those aside. All right, so from here, we can go back to the tie rod end, take that nut off, lift the tie rod end out. And I like to hang it up over that sway bar end link and then put our nut back on the stud just so we don't lose it. Here we can lift the upper control arm out of the knuckle. There we go. And what I like to do is just grab the upper control arm castle nut and thread it right back on again so we don't lose it, just like the tie rod end.All right, next up, we're going to tackle the bottom strut bolt holding it to the lower control arm. Now, the nut here, I'm going to use a 15/16 deep socket on my impact gun, and I'm going to use a 21-millimeter wrench to hold the bolt head on the inside.At this point, you can grab a ball-pein hammer and just tap the end of that to pop it through. Some cases you may be able to pull it straight out. If not, you can grab a flathead screwdriver and just stick it in there and hammer the back end of that. All right. So now we can focus on the top three strut tower nuts. Now, grab a 15-millimeter wrench, and I'm going to use again the 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench. Again, this really comes in handy. We're going to loosen up these three top nuts.All right, so now our strut is free. I'm going to use a pry bar here between the lower control arm and the strut body at the bottom to pry this guy out of position. All right, so now we can start assembling our strut spacer. The first thing you want to do is install our new studs that'll hold the entire strut spacer and shred assembly to the vehicle. Now, looking at the spacer, one side has these really small holes that are threaded. Make sure that side is on the bottom.The larger holes you see on this side is going to be where we're going to put in our little new studs. So, basically, what you're going to do is take one of these guys, put it in here, and thread it in by hand so the stud comes out the other way. Now, you can only go so far by hands. You're not really going to see it come through very much. You want to do that to all three of them. So this side looks like that. This side has the studs coming through.You're going to grab an 8-millimeter hex socket or Allen key and tighten these three down. Now, I will say if you plan on using this as a permanent model on your vehicle, it may be a good idea to put a dab of Blue Loctite on the end here before you start inserting these. We're going to be returning our truck to stock, so I'm not going to be doing that for this, but it is worth recommending. All right, so I got my impact gun to my eight-socket, just tighten them down.Perfect. All right, so now we have three studs. This is going to hold it up in the strut tower. Now, we can take our strut and drop this guy into place on the stut. Now, I like to put the strut in between my knees. I find this to be the easiest setup to get this on. The spacer is only going to drop on one way. It'll line up to the studs in one position. Now, if you put it on like this, it will kind of be cockeyed. So you just want to make sure you're just rotating it until it drops on.I like to grab a 15-millimeter deep socket, just hold it in my hand not on a ratchet or impact gun just so when I drop on the factory nuts... The factory nuts are what we're going to be using to attach the strut to the strut spacer. I'm going to drop that guy into the hole and use the socket by itself just by hand to catch the threads that way you're not jumbling around with the impact gun and cross-threading, there's no risk. So drop the factory nut in each hole, thread it on as far as that'll go. Do that for all three.Now, what we can do is grab our impact gun, swap out that 8-socket for the 15, and tighten this guy down. Again, if you want to use Blue Loctite, you can, just make sure you're doing that before, of course, you tighten it down. Now we're ready to throw the entire assembly back in the truck. All right, at this point, I like to take one of the nuts included in the kit, the nylon lock nut, and I'm going to set it on top of the upper control arm ball joint. When I lift my tie rod end out of the way, and you're going to basically slide this guy up into position on the strut tower, just making sure the studs line up, sort of drops in.All right, once it drops in like that, you'll have the studs coming up through the top. Grab one nut, we really only need one at this point, thread it on so it holds the strut in place, and now we can reassemble the rest of the suspension here. All right, now before we put everything back together, it may be helpful to take the top of the sway bar end link nut off along with the bushing and bracket there or the spacer.We're just going to set that aside. It'll give us more articulation in the lower control arm. All right, so at this point, I'm just going to lift that tie rod end out of the way so you can see. We basically need to get this fork on the bottom of the strut over the lower control arm to see where those open holes are. I recommend using a pry bar. I think it's going to be one of your easier ways to get this done. You're basically just going to lift up and pry down so that it seats correctly on the lower control arm.All right, so the next part is to get the factory bolt back through the bottom of the strut. The bolt heads going to be on the inside facing out like that. Now, this gets to be pretty tricky getting the bolt holes to line up. So you might want to grab a smaller pry bar, and you're basically going to lift up until the hole on the inside lines up so you can get that bolt through. So I got a helping hand here. We're going to put the bolt in the opposite way it came out to help line it up, grab a hammer, and tap it through.All right, now I know getting that bolt back in is a lot of a problem. It can give you a little bit of a headache here trying to get it back in the same way it came out. So if you need to, you can flip the bolt around and put the bolt head on the front of the vehicle side going into the inside of the lower control arm. There's no problem doing that, doesn't make a difference. So that's what we did there just to get it to line up better. Grab your hammer and tap it all the way through.Now, we can put the nut on the other side and tighten that bolt down. All right, so now we can put our nut back on the other side here. Grab your 15/16 wrench for the nut and your 21 socket for the bolt head and tighten them down. All right, let's reconnect our tie rod. So I'm going to take off that factory nut that I put on there for safekeeping, lift up your knuckle, and drop that guy into place. Thread the factory nut back on. Grab your 21 socket and tighten down that nut.Now, for the next step of getting our upper control arm to seat in our knuckle, I actually lowered the truck down toward the ground, and I'm using a floor jack, hydraulic floor jack to jack up the lower control arm so it brings the knuckle up to meet the upper control arm halfway. Otherwise, the knuckle assembly there is a little bit too low, we can't extend the upper control arm down far enough, so jacking it up allows us to seat it in. So that's what I just did here.So at this point, I'm going to use my pry bar to pry down on the upper control arm, seat the stud through this hole, and then put the nut back on. All right, so I'm, again, going to put my pry bar under one of the coil springs, seat this guy in just like this. You want to be careful not to slip off of that coil. So the studs come through the bottom. Grab the nut and the spacer assembly that was on there from the factory and thread that nut on. We want to get it on a couple of threads there, a good amount of threads so it can't pop off. That'll hold itself on.Now, at this point, we can grab our socket and tighten this guy down while prying down on this so we can release some of that tension. All right, so I'm going to use my swivel socket and my 18 to go up here. Now, you can just use a typical ratchet and socket set. You can use a ratcheting wrench if that's easier for you. But I have this air tool, so I'm going to find this to be a little bit easier. I'm going to pry down a little bit and tighten it down. There it is. Now, once you have that in place, the last step is to grab the retaining pin and put that through.All right, so while we're down here and this is jacked up, we have our sway bar end link back through the sway bar, drop your bushing back on in the spacer, follow it up with the 16 nut. Grab your socket set, grab your 16 socket, and tighten it down. Again, I'm using a swivel to make it easier. All right, now this last step is a little bit more difficult to see because the inner wheel well liner is here, but you want to make sure you put in all three nuts on all three studs. We already had one on the front, so we just got to hit those back two. And then, from here, you're going to grab a 17 socket or ratchet and tighten these three down.For these, I like to use a ratcheting wrench. I find it to be easier because this one's a little bit longer. I get a little bit more leverage. That's going to wrap up my review and install for the Mammoth 2.5 inch Front Leveling Kit spacers available for the '06 to '18 four-wheel-drive RAM 1500. Get yours right here to

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • 2.5-Inch Front Leveling Kit
      • Corrects Factory Rake for a Level Stance
      • Increases Front Ground Clearance
      • CNC-Machined Aluminum Strut Spacers
      • Black Anodized Finish
      • Straight Forward - Bolt-on Installation
      • Fits 2006-2023 RAM 1500 4WD Models, Excludes Mega Cab


      Eliminates Factory Rake. Raise the front of your 2006-2018 4WD RAM 1500 by 2.5-inches, to eliminate the original factory rake, with a Mammoth Leveling Kit. This Mammoth Kit will not only level out your RAM, but it will also increase the front end ground clearance as well.

      Quality Construction. These Mammoth Strut Spacers have been CNC-machined from aircraft grade billet aluminum for superior strength and durability. Mammoth then completes its Leveling Spacers in a durable, black anodized finish for good looks and long-lasting corrosion resistance.

      Straight Forward - Bolt-on Installation. Mammoth designed its Front Leveling Kit to be a straight forward, bolt-on install with no cutting or drilling required. With all the necessary hardware included, this Leveling Kit can be installed in about 2 hours time.

      Application. This Mammoth 2.5-inch Front Leveling Kit is specifically engineered to fit 2006-2023 RAM 1500 4WD models, excluding Mega Cab.

      Mammoth 4x4

      Shop All Truck Parts And Accessories

      Shop All Truck Leveling Kits

      Shop All Truck Lift Kits



      Mammoth R109949

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) 42mm Thick Spacers
      • (6) M10x1.50 Bolts
      • (6) M10 Lock Nuts

      Customer Reviews (500+)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Ram 1500

        • 3.0L V6 EcoDiesel - 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • 3.6L V6 - 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • 3.7L V6 - 10
        • 4.7L V8 - 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13
        • 5.7L V8 - 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • 6.2L V8 Supercharged - 21, 22, 23