(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
$149.95 (each)FREE Shipping
Saved - View your saved items
We're sorry. We couldn't save this product at this time.
Hey, guys, Adam here with americantrucks.com, and today we're taking a quick look at and installing the Rough Country Cold Air Intake available for the '09 to '18 RAM 1500 with a 5.7 HEMI. You should, very simply put, be checking this out if you're looking to get rid of the factory, pretty restrictive, OEM airbox that has the factory paper element drop-in filter that really just is not optimized for airflow, it's not gonna give you that bump in horsepower and torque you might be looking for, and sure as hell is not gonna sound as good as an aftermarket intake. Now, this guy here is using an oil filter that's washable and reusable using a cotton gauze filter element. I'll take a moment later on in the video to compare to stock. Just know that that guy is gonna do a whole lot better, letting in a lot more airflow, a lot more cold air from the outside of the vehicle, and it's gonna filter out all the microparticles that you don't want making its way through your intake and ultimately your engine that will rob you of that power.The nice thing about this is it's a no-tuner required intake, meaning right out of the box you can bolt it up and it's good to go. No check engine lights, no none of that nonsense, you don't have to worry about getting a custom tune. However, a custom tune will maximize the performance gains and even give you a bigger bump. Now, this kit here is one of the more affordable options, it uses an open-ended airbox with some weather stripping on the top to seal in under the hood to block out some of that excess engine bay heat but keeping that cold air that's pulling in. Now the tubing there is a billet aluminum powder-coated black, it's good for heat dissipation, it's got all new hardware to get installed as well. Overall, it's gonna help your engine breathe a lot better and you can even hear a little bit more of an aggressive sound coming from under the hood, something almost like a whistle or growl.Now, this guy is gonna run you right around 200 bucks. Install is gonna get one out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. Anybody can tackle this in the driveway at home with about an hour or so from start to finish. I'll walk you through the entire process. What do you say we get started? Tools used the install include an impact gun, extension and ratchet, 5.5-millimeter, 6-millimeter, 7-millimeter, 10-millimeter, and 13-millimeter deep sockets, 13 short socket, small Allen socket along with some Allen keys if you don't have those, Phillips and flathead screwdrivers, 10-millimeter and 22-millimeter wrenches, and some wire cutters or snips.All right. First step of the install, of course, pop your hood. We're gonna loosen up the clamp connecting your factory tubing to your throttle body. Grab a flathead screwdriver, or you can use an appropriate socket size and loosen that guy up. We don't have to remove it, just loosen that guy. Once it's loose enough, come up here and disconnect the harness on your intake temperature sensor. All right. Next, we can remove that breather hose there, might be a little snug, just gonna wiggle it back and forth until that guy pops off with stuff. Lift up and disconnect the hosing from the throttle body, and then the housing will come off in one piece. Set your factory intake aside.So we got our factory intake off of our 14 RAM behind me, and it's on the table next to our Rough Country intake. And I wanna take you through some similarities and differences here, starting with the fact that our filter here is completely different. Now, I took apart the factory airbox, which you don't have to do, but I just wanted to show you guys the drastic difference between the factory filter and the new Rough Country filter. Factory filters like this one here and others from makes like Dodge, Ford, Chevy, of the like, this guy here is a dry paper element drop-in filter. They're from the factory, they're perfectly fine and adequate for doing the job as an OEM filter, but when you're really looking to maximize airflow and get a better filtration system, upgrading to a conical oil filter like this one from Rough Country goes a long way.This is using a cotton gauze element as opposed to a paper element and it's oiled as opposed to the dry. Oil filters typically can collect a lot more of the debris that you don't want making its way into the engine bay. This cotton gauze filter is also a little bit more of an open filter element, as opposed to the very closed-off paper element. The cotton gauze there is gonna allow for a little bit more air to get through and a 360-degree conical design is gonna obviously allow more volume to come through, as opposed to the flat dropping paper element one. Overall, huge upgrade of the factory option there, and of course pairing it with the tune can really maximize performance there.Now, when it comes to oil versus dry because there are aftermarket dry filters, dry filters are typically recommended for guys in dry climate areas, seeing a lot of air pollution. If you live in more of a deserty area that sees a lot of dust and dirt through the air, it would otherwise clog up an oil filter a little bit more often requiring some more maintenance, which case a dry filter might be the best way to go in that scenario, just to reduce the amount of maintenance you would do, but either way, dry and oil, they're both within 1% of each other in terms of performance. So it really comes down to personal preference and your application. Otherwise, you're looking at aluminum tubing, great for heat dissipation with a black powder-coated finish on top. It's definitely gonna help make it look a little bit more aggressive under the hood and it's also just gonna blend in a little bit more with the black engine bay. We've got some new silicone couplers to help make sure that it's gonna leak refinish, and a billet aluminum airbox.Now, as opposed to your factory airbox, which is completely closed, this one is an open airbox, you can actually see and gain better access to the filter making it easier for maintenance. You don't take it apart, but it also comes with a weather stripping seal that goes around the top and the side section of the airbox so that it seals in underneath the hood when the hood closes to block out excess engine bay heat and trap in that cold air which is still gonna use the OEM air duct on the side fender. With that said, guys, we're gonna transfer over a couple of factory things starting with your air intake temperature sensor. Let's get to it.Next, we're gonna twist out our factory temperature sensor, turn it counterclockwise, and you're just gonna wiggle it back and forth slightly until it pops out of place. And we're gonna swap this over to our new tubing, but I'm gonna set the factory one aside. Next up, we're gonna take this grommet and insert it into the open hole on the side of the new tubing and take your factory sensor and put it through. Now, this is gonna be difficult. As you just saw, the grommet popped into the tubing. You don't want that to happen. So you wanna make sure that you're putting this through. And then if you need to, you can put your hand in the tubing to hold it in place, and insert the temperature sensor, and insert your factory sensor in there while holding it from the inside so the grommet doesn't come through. This is a pretty tricky part. If you need to oil it up to make sure it's getting in there properly, you can do that. Just twist until it's seated all the way through where the tab is sitting flush against the grommet. All right. Make sure it's oriented the same way that it was from the factory and we're good to move on.Next, we wanna install our coupler that tapers down and it'll attach to our filter side. It's gonna go over just like this. You wanna make sure that you have a clamp in place on that guy though, so what we're gonna do is just grab this guy, insert it over the end, looks like this clamp just needs to be loosened up quite a bit. Let's do that. All right. Once you have that guy loose, insert that over the coupler, and set it in place over the tubing. Once you know it's seated properly, grab an 8-millimeter socket and tighten that clamp. Ensure that's secure. Now we can put our hose fitting on.Next up, grab your host fitting. We're just gonna thread that guy onto the welded-on threaded piece on the tubing, you're gonna grab a 22-millimeter wrench and tighten it down. Now, it's not gonna tighten down all the way, you don't wanna strip it out. This is plastic, after all, going into metal, don't wanna cause any damage there, and you don't wanna strip it. So grab your 22 and get it nice and snug without going too far. You should feel it get a little bit resistant without being too, too tight. There we go. Next up here, we're gonna do the coupler on the other side. Make sure your clamp is over the end there. Slide it onto the tubing, making sure that it's oriented properly the way that it will need to be under the hood. Once you have that on, grab an 8 socket, tighten that clampdown. Perfect. Now, obviously, the smaller clamp will go on the other end when we get to the throttle body portion. I'm actually just gonna open this guy up a little bit, slide it onto the tubing so we know that it's on there. Just like that.Next up, we have to assemble our heat shield. There's one more plate we have to add to it. You're gonna use these small hex head screws and it's just gonna get screwed onto the open threaded holes on the main body of the airbox. So I'm gonna put a couple of them in by hand here just to make sure everything is aligned properly before we tighten anything down. So we got a couple on the bottom and then we have about six of them going up the side. [inaudible 00:08:32] You may need to bend the aluminum body to get those holes to line up, but they should go right through. All right. Grab your hex socket or Allen key and tighten those down. Next, you will take this adapter inserted through the inside of the filter going out and rotate it until the thread holes are coming through the pre-drill holes in the cover. [inaudible 00:09:44] seat those guys down there, then you wanna tighten it down. All right. From here, just wanna grab your 10 socket and tighten those down.Next, we can insert our filter with a clamp on the end of it. Grab a Phillips head and tighten down the clamp. All right. This bracket is gonna go on the inside of the airbox itself through these two holes. There are two brackets like this, shorter and longer, the shorter one is gonna go here where the double holes are. You're gonna take one of these bolts and put it through the outside, and you're gonna put the nylon lock nut on the inside. Same thing on the other side. From here, you're gonna use a 10 socket, and 10 wrench and tighten those down. We don't wanna over tighten, we're gonna leave a little bit of room for adjustment, just so we know where we can line it up later. All right. So it's nice and snug, but I can still slide it forward and backward through the slots. All right, we're gonna do the same thing for the other bracket, but it's gonna be on the outside of the airbox instead of the inside.All right, next up, we're back under the hood, you wanna pop off your engine cover if you haven't done so already. Let's get some better access to some of the components we need to change out. We're gonna pop that off, make sure that breather lines there, set your cover aside. Next, grab a 13 socket, we're gonna remove this top or upper bolt on the factory housing where that factory intake was, so grab your 13 socket and get that off. Next up, we're gonna remove one more bolt here on the rad support, at least behind the rad support, if you check out this reservoir of refill line, you can go straight up from that. You can also use the last bolt on the front grille as a guide as well. I'm gonna use my extension to go underneath to those coolant lines and get that off. Pretty long, so make sure you're pulling the whole thing out.Let's drop our airbox in place, make sure you're feeding those brackets through. The longer bracket should line up to the last bolt that we removed on that frame. This inner bolt is gonna line up to the smaller inner bracket. Take that factory bolt, put it back through. Put the bolt on the frame in front of the rad as well. Okay, let's put that longer bolt back through. Grab your 13 socket and tighten that down. I'm gonna switch over to a quarter-inch ratchet for this. All right, tighten down the other bolt as well. All right, let's tighten down the other one.With the engine cover off, we can pop off this breather line. On the end here, we have just a small piece of tubing. I'm just gonna twist that guy off, just like that, and we're gonna replace it with the tubing in the kit. Now, it's a pretty tight squeeze. You can maneuver this guy on there, just wanna twist until it goes on over that factory fitting. Once you get started, keep going until it's seated all the way through. All right, once you have it on and off, grab a hose clamp included in the kit, feed it on and tighten it down. All right, take one of the small hose clamps included in the kit and feed that guy on. Make sure it's over both hose fittings there. Grab a 6-millimeter socket and tighten it down. We're gonna do the same thing the other end once it's attached to the tubing, but let's make sure this guy goes back on first. All right. And this will come down underneath and plug into the new tubing fitting.All right. Next, we're gonna do that again to the tubing, slide on your hose fitting, bring your tubing over. Before we connect the tubing to the throttle body or the filter, plug that fitting in. Bring up your hose clamp, this just makes life a whole lot easier instead of trying to access it underneath. Bring that hose clamp up and tighten it back down. Okay, now we can connect the tubing. All right, it's gonna go right onto the throttle body with a clamp on the end there. The other end is gonna go to the filter. Filter one is a little bit of a tight squeeze. Grab your socket and tighten down those two clamps. Tighter squeeze but you can get your impact gun on there.Next, let's connect the sensor harness extension. The white's gonna connect to the factory part. Once you hear that click, grab that guy around and connect it to your factory sensor. All right. Now, for your weather stripping on the top here, you just wanna start at one end and work your way around. It just hugs the corners or the edges of the new airbox. Once you get to the end, you can just cut off the excess. I'm just gonna use wire cutters for this, helps get through pretty easily, just like that. Make sure that edge is seated. There you have it. Good to go. That's gonna wrap up my quick overview and install for the Rough Country Cold Air Intake for the '09 to '18 RAM 1500 with the 5.7 HEMI. Get yours right here at americantrucks.com.
Subscribe to our YouTube Channel
Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Horsepower and Torque Booster. Equip your Dodge RAM 1500 with small gains with more horsepower and torque with the Cold Air Intake. This cold air intake system delivers improved airflow over your sluggish factory air filter. It is proudly made in the U.S.A.
Meets or Exceeds OEM Specifications. This unit is designed in adherence to OEM quality specifications from the manufacturer.
Warranty. This product is protected by a limited lifetime warranty, which protects against defects in materials and workmanship from the manufacturer. The manufacturer accepts no responsibility for lack of maintenance or improper use.
Installation. It takes no more than 1-2 hours to install this product if you have moderate-to-expert level mechanical skills.
Application. The Cold Air Intake is compatible with the 2009-2018 5.7L Dodge RAM 1500.
Rough Country 10614
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
What's in the Box
10 More Questions