(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$139.99 (kit)FREE Shipping
Saved - View your saved items
We're sorry. We couldn't save this product at this time.
Merideth: Hey, guys. So today, we're checking out the Officially Licensed RAM 2.5-inch Front Leveling Kit, fitting all '06 to '18 4-wheel drive RAM 1500s without air ride and excluding the Mega Cab. Now, this will be a great option for the truck owner who's looking for a very easy and affordable way to create a better-looking and more functional stance with their RAM, while also allowing you to mount up a 35-inch tire.Now, this kit here will do an excellent job at leveling off the factory rake in the front, which will help you out with your stance. And if you have any additional heavy-duty accessories up front, like a heavy-duty front bumper, this will get rid of some of that extra sag. Now, not only will this help out when it comes to aesthetics, but this will also increase your ground clearance, making your truck a little bit more functional in light off-road situations.Now, the front end of the RAM does sit pretty low, so by increasing that height in the front, you'll be able to clear any smaller obstacles that you may have previously come in contact with. Now, when it comes to tire size, this will fit up to a 35-inch tire, and both a 33 and a 35 will give a full look inside that wheel well, also giving you some clearance for any lighter off-road trails.Now, this will be great if you're looking to upgrade to a larger wheel and tire setup and you need a lift kit or a leveling kit that's going to accommodate for that extra size. Now I would like to note that the lift blocks themselves will be 1.5 inches thick. So with the suspension geometry and the combined spring compression, that's what's giving you that 2.5 inches of lift in the front. So when you take these out of the box, I would just keep that in mind. Now, that will serve as a perfect middle ground as far as height goes, and there's a very popular choice for RAM owners who are looking to correct the stance of their truck.Now, included in the kit will be the lift blocks themselves, and you're also going to get all of the hardware that you need in order to mount the spacer directly to the top of your strut. Now, when taking a closer look at these lift blocks, these will be made of a CNC machined aircraft-grade billet aluminum material, making them very strong and durable. And these are also gonna have a nice black powder coat finish on top that will resist any corrosion on the aluminum underneath, and, of course, give these a very long lifespan. I do also like the fact that this will come branded on the side with the RAM logo, giving you a little bit of brand styling inside the wheel well.Now, when it comes to price, this kit will come in at roughly $125, again, making it very affordable. Now, in comparison to some other solutions available in the category, you will see other leveling kits just like this that will come with lift blocks or spacers, and then you'll see some more expensive choices that will usually consist of a taller strut. Now, again, those are going to be a little bit more expensive, so if you're looking to keep it on the budget-friendly side, something like this will be a great choice.Now, when comparing these to other spaces in the category, some may be set up a little bit differently. Like I said before, these will come with bolts, some other options will come with pre-installed studs at the top or in the spacer itself, and then some other choices may not be a billet aluminum material. They may have a steel construction, in comparison to this. So, it comes down to your personal preference. But again, I personally think if you're looking for better ground clearance, if you're looking for a prominent stance for your truck, and you're also looking for a little bit of branded styling in the meantime, then this kit is a great choice.Now, when it comes to install, I'm gonna give this a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, taking you probably two hours to get the job done with the right tools. And one of our installers here is gonna show you how to get these onto your RAM. So that wraps it up for my review. Let's go ahead and hop into the install.Man 1: Tools used for this installation, 1/2-inch impact gun, 3/8 electric impact gun, large and small pry bars, hammer, 15/16 socket, 21-millimeter, 17, 16, and 15-millimeter sockets, 8-millimeter Allen head, needle-nose pliers, cutting pliers, flat blade screwdriver, 18-millimeter wrench, 15/16 wrench, 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench, and 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench. Hey, guys, we've already done this uninstall, so we're gonna go to that right now, and then we'll jump right back into our install.Man 2: All right, to kick things off, I'm gonna show you guys how to uninstall your factory strut here on our front driver's side. And, of course, you wanna get your wheel out of the way, that's step number one. We're supported on a lift, but if you're working on the floor, make sure you have a floor jack properly supporting the weight of the vehicle.Moving on from there, we'll have to disconnect the ABS lines from the knuckle and from the brake line itself just to make sure that when the knuckle drops down out of the upper control arm, we're not putting too much stress on those brake lines. All right, so for this ABS line, just follow it down to the back of your knuckle here. That's connected with a plastic clip. Just gonna wiggle that back and forth till it pops up. Now you wanna follow that guy up to the top here. That's connected to your brake line. That, you're just gonna pull apart, just like that. Now we have more slack on our brake lines, so we're not putting tension on them.Next up, grab a 16-millimeter deep socket, and we're gonna remove the factory nut off of our sway bar end link. All right, set that aside. All right, next up, we're gonna disconnect our tie rod end. Now, before we get started, you wanna know that this is a 21-millimeter nut. Now, in some cases, if you use an impact gun on this, the entire stud will spin in that ball joint. You may need a 10-millimeter socket and a 21-millimeter wrench to get the nut off while holding that stud steady.For our first time, I'm gonna use our 21-millimeter deep socket in my air gun to get this guy off. All right, so ours didn't give us any trouble, but that is still worth noting. Now, before I take this guy out, I'm actually gonna leave it in and just put that nut a couple of threads on, just to keep the entire hub assembly from rotating while tackling the upper control arm.All right, so next, we're gonna do the upper control arm to the knuckle. Now, RAM uses a castle nut here, which has these open gaps all the way around. And through one of the gaps going through the study itself is a metal retaining pin. We're gonna use needle-nose pliers to pull that pin straight out. All right, set that aside.Now for this, I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. I highly recommend picking up a set of ratcheting wrenches for this install. There's a lot of different aspects of this that ratcheting wrenches will be a lot easier to use.All right, so once we broke that loose, I can back this off with my hand. Now, big thing to remember is we have to dislodge the ball joint from the knuckle. You can see the stud didn't break free with that. So I'm gonna leave this nut on a couple of threads. We're gonna grab our hammer, and we're gonna swing and tap against here to dislodge that, and then we'll use a pry bar to pull it down and take our nut off. Now, for this, you wanna grab a ball peen hammer, and we're gonna tap right up against the side here of the knuckle.With that dislodged, you'll see that the upper control arm moves freely in there. Let's take our nut off. Once you have the castle nut and spacer out, set those aside. All right, so from here, we can go back to the tie rod end, take that nut off, lift the tie rod end out. I like to hang it up over that sway bar end link, and then put our nut back on the stud just so we don't lose it. Here we can lift the upper control arm out of the knuckle. Now what I like to do is just grab the upper control arm castle nut and thread it right back on again so we don't lose it, just like the tie rod end.All right, next up, we're gonna tackle the bottom strut bolt holding it to the lower control arm. Now, the nut here, I'm gonna use a 15/16 deep socket on my impact gun, and I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter wrench to hold the bolt head on the inside. At this point, you can grab a ball peen hammer and just tap the end of that to pop it through. Some cases, you may be able to pull it straight out. If not, you can grab a flathead screwdriver and just stick it in there and hammer the back end of that.All right, so now we can focus on the top three strut tower nuts. Now, grab a 15-millimeter wrench, and I'm gonna use, again, the 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench. Again, this really comes in handy. We're gonna loosen up these three top nuts. All right, so now our strut is free. I'm gonna use a pry bar here between the lower control arm and the strut body at the bottom to pry this guy out of position.Man 1: So now we have our strut off our vehicle. We're gonna install our 2.5-inch spacer. We're gonna use our three Allen studs that were supplied in the kit and install them into our spacer. And then we'll take our spacer, install it onto our strut, and we'll use our stock nuts that we took off our vehicle to bolt this up to our strut assembly. So we'll get our Allen socket on our gun and we'll start installing our studs into our spacer.So now we're gonna take our Allen studs that's supplied in the kit. We're gonna install them into our spacer and then tighten them up with our gun. We'll be using these plus the new nuts that are included in the kit to hold this onto our vehicle when we get it inside there. So I'm gonna take these, put them in, and tighten it up with our gun. Now we're gonna take our spacer, install it on the top of our strut, and we're gonna use our stock nuts that came off when we removed them off of these studs to hold this on. I'm gonna take my 15-millimeter on my impact gun and tighten them up then. It's only gonna be able to go on one way. You just have to line it up like that. And we'll just drop our nuts down inside there and get them started.Now that I have them tight, we'll be able to install our strut onto our vehicle. Now that we have our 2.5-inch spacer on, I'm going to install this up into our housing there and then start one nut just to hold it in place and get it started.So now that we got our strut in place and we started our three top nuts, we're going to use some pry bars, which I've started doing, and prying a bottom of our strut assembly here into the pocket where it sits. Takes a little bit of time to do it. You're gonna need some big pry bars like I have here, and you use them and pry it and get it into place. I have it close, and now what I'm gonna do is take my pry bars, get it the rest of the way over, and then start putting our big, long bolt through the bottom. And then once we get that done, then we'll go and start assembling the rest of the suspension back together. And I'll show you how to do all that.So now what I'm gonna do is take both my pry bars. I'm gonna put one back here to hold the strut from popping out, and I'm gonna take my other one and wedge it underneath here and lift up a little bit. And as I lift, I'm gonna push in and try to get the pry bar to go under and push this back. And once I get it to the point where I have it close to lining up, I'm gonna end up just lifting up, and then trying to start the bolt in the bottom, and get that bolt started, pull my pry bars out. Take my hammer, smack it in place.So now that we have our strut in place, we have our bottom bolt started, our three top bolts started, we have the vehicle down on the ground. Now if you're working on your vehicle and you just got it jacked up, I'm gonna use the jack here to jack up the suspension. That way, I can start the nuts for the ball joint, the tie rod, and the sway bar link. It'll make it a lot easier.So what I'm gonna do is take the jack, put it underneath, get it on the bottom ball joint, lift it up, get it in place, start all my nuts. And then once I get that done, then we'll take it, and then we'll start tightening everything down. So now I'm gonna hold my spindle in place and take my jack and start jacking up on the suspension, then I'll start my nut for our bolt joint. Once we get that in place, I'm gonna start my sway bar nut, put my bushing on, and get that started. Once we get this started, I'll push in and install our tie rod in place and install our nut on our tie rod, then we can start tightening everything up.Now, we'll install our tie rod, and we'll put our nut on. I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter on my impact gun, tighten this up. We're also gonna take our 21-millimeter and our 23-millimeter wrench. We're gonna tighten up our lower strut, and now we'll tighten our sway bar, and our ball joint, and our three 15-millimeters on top of our strut housing. So now we're gonna tighten up our bottom nut here for our ball joint, and then we'll tighten up our sway bar nut here. When we tighten this one up, we're gonna stick a cotter pin through. You're gonna see that there's holes in the ball joint itself to put a cotter pin, insert one through and bend the tabs. So once we tighten this up, we'll put that through and bend the tabs, and then we'll go back over and tighten our sway bar nut up on our sway bar.So now I'm just gonna finish tightening up my nut, my ball joint, install a cotter pin. You're gonna wanna bend the tabs pretty much like that. And then now we'll tighten up our nut on our sway bar. Now, we're gonna take my 16-millimeter on my gun, tighten up our nut here. Now, we'll go up and tighten our 15-millimeters up on top of our housing. Now I'm gonna take my 17-millimeter ratcheting wrench, tighten up our three nuts on top that we started. And now you're gonna just wanna repeat that same procedure on the other side.Merideth: So that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install the Officially Licensed RAM 2.5-Inch Front Leveling Kit, fitting all '06 to '18 4-wheel drive RAM 1500s without air ride and excluding the Mega Cab. For more videos and products just like this, remember to always keep it right here at americantrucks.com.
Subscribe to our YouTube Channel
Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
RAM Officially Licensed DR-2.5-RAM
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
10 More Questions