(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey guys. Adam here with americantrucks.com and today we're taking a closer look and installing the Power Stop performance front break calipers in red available for all 2002 to 2018 Ram 1500s excluding the SRT-10 model. Well, if you're the owner of a Ram 1500 and you're in need of a new brake caliper and bracket set this is a great way to go for both form and function. Now when it comes to this caliper it is an exact OEM replacement. The only difference here guys is the fact that it's powder-coated in red, and honestly it looks really, really good. You can see it very clearly through the spokes of your wheels and it fits all aftermarket and stock wheels that clear a factory caliper. It's that simple. It's gonna fit into the factory locations. It does come with a new bleeder screw, pins and all clips necessary for the reinstallation using new hardware. The only thing you're going to reuse are the factory bracket bolts, so just the two 21 millimeters. This is a great upgrade if your factory caliper has some blown out pistons, you're just gonna replace it with the same dual piston setup as you see here. Now, one thing to note here. The red is not gonna crack, fade, or chip under extreme hit which we all know those brake calipers can be under. You're also going to get something that has been pressure-tested and leak-tested so it's leak-free and foolproof.Now, when it comes to upgrading your calipers and brackets it's a good idea at the same time to just replace pads, and if you're doing pads you should probably replace those rotors. It's a good idea to do those at the same time. If you replace the pads and not the rotors your rotors already have surfaced for the previous pads. It's really not a good combo and they're gonna wear out unevenly which is not something you want when it comes to the brake assembly. You can get your factory rotors or your previous rotors resurfaced which is always an option if you don't wanna spend the bigger bucks on an entire new rotor kit, but know that this kit is only coming with the front both passenger and driver side red calipers. So we're gonna be reinstalling this using our factory rotors and pads as you see here and I'll take you through the entire process of what it's like to actually do this entire brake job. The process I'm gonna be showing you is an exact same process if you're using new rotors, new pads, new everything and I'm gonna show you guys that in just a little bit. Know that the front kit you see here comes in right about the $160 mark which actually I think isn't a bad price at all for the front set. If you're looking at factory calipers typically they're around $60 bucks. Multiply that by two you're looking at $120. So really just $40 to $50 bucks more you get pre-painted calipers. No need for you to pick up rattle cans to do it in the driveway which can get not only sloppy but might not last as long. This is definitely gonna last the long haul and I think it looks pretty good. So form and function are both present here in this kit from Power Stop and it's definitely gonna put the braking power back in your setup.Now, the install I'm gonna give two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. Really anybody can tackle this in the driveway at home but it is gonna be a two-man job. At the end of the assembly for both sides you're gonna have to bleed your brakes, and in order to that you'll need a helping hand to sit in the driver seat to pump that brake pedal and I'll show you guys exactly what that process is going to be like. I recommend a couple of extra tools that you might not have on hand including a brake line clamp to hold this down just to reduce some of the mess that can come along with doing a brake job. I'd also recommend having a clear tube or hose to help you bleed the brakes to give you a good idea with where you're at with bubbles and air in the lines. That's always a good idea. And third, have a drain pan or an oil pan on deck. You wanna catch all that excess brake fluid. You don't wanna get the driveway all messy and if you are doing it in the driveway of course you wanna have jack stands and a hydraulic jack to make sure you're being safe. Now guys, I'm gonna take you through every step of the process. It's gonna take you about two maybe three hours from start to finish. What do you say we get started?Tools used in this install include an impact gun, 13, 15, and 21 millimeter deep sockets, a brake line clamp such as this one, 10 millimeter wrench, anti-seize lubricant or brake lubricant, brake fluid, DOT compliant to what your master cylinder cap says. You also want a torque wrench and a pry bar. Now what you don't see on the table is latex gloves, oil pan and a brake line or drain line that you can hook up to your bleeder screw. All right, guys, of course the first step is to get your truck up in the air and properly supported. Now, if you're working in the driveway at home which I'm sure most of you guys are make sure you're using jack stands appropriately. Make sure that you're using a hydraulic jack to add some support weight. Just be safe, be cautious. That's definitely the most important part. Once your truck is supported you wanna make sure you're getting the front wheel off. We're gonna start here on our driver side. Driver and passenger side, exact same thing. We're gonna show you here on the driver side. Once you get the wheel off, now if you have an open-ended log lug nut or a lug nut deep enough, might be a good idea to thread that on the stud just to hold the rotor in place and then what you're gonna do is grab a 13 millimeter deep socket then you're gonna remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the mounting bracket.All right, so next up what you're gonna do is remove the top bolt here and the bottom bolt here to disconnect the caliper from the mounting bracket. You wanna make sure you're holding on to these bolts to reinstall later. All right, next step here guys you're gonna take a pry bar or a screw driver or something similar and you're basically gonna work off the caliper from the bracket. Gonna go from the edges and really just one side to the other gently and slowly work this guy off. It's gonna take a little bit of time, really just going back and forth making sure you don't damage anything. Can even go in here, go upward with it. All right, once you have that caliper off what we're gonna do is prop it up here. If you have a bungee cord or something to hold that up with, you just wanna tuck it up and away so that it's not hanging down putting pressure on your brake line. So make sure you have tension removed from this line here. This is a good spot for it. Now from here you can remove the final two bolts holding on the bracket or if your brakes are loose enough you can pop these brake pads out, just like that. Take note of where these clips were because we have new clips but you wanna make sure you're putting them in the same way. There you go, set these aside.All right, our next step is to get our caliper bracket off of our rotor. There's two 21 millimeter bolts holding those guys on. All right, so once you get that bolt out catch your bracket, set it aside. All right, guys, next step is to start removing the brake line. Now, it gets a little messy. I'm gonna suggest a couple of things here. Number one, make sure you have a drain pan or an oil pan underneath where you can drain all that brake fluid into safely. You don't want it on the driveway. Wanna make sure you're not touching any paint with any brake fluid. It's corrosive. It will eat that paint away. Also you wanna make sure you're not getting any brake fluid on the rotor itself, the rotor surface it'll contaminate it. Don't get any brake fluid on your brake pads. So really key things there, keep in mind. It will ruin all of the things I just mentioned so keep that in mind. Have a pan handy, drain it right into there. With that said, I'm actually gonna pop our rotor off since it's pretty loose. So I'm gonna take this, slide it off just for this little process here and we'll set it aside. All right, from here I'm gonna use a line clamp and I'm gonna show you guys what that means. So I'm gonna take our caliper, set it down right here just for the time being. What I'm gonna do is use this to clamp our line right here, and what that's gonna do is prevent us from draining out the master cylinder and getting all of the brake fluid to pour out. It's gonna clamp it, hold the pressure there and all that's gonna drain is what's left in this little two inch piece of line and what's in our caliper. So still gonna be a little messy. It's not gonna be as messy as it would be if we didn't clamp this guy shut. So that's a good thing to have. If you don't a have a line clamp you can pick one up at your local auto parts store, rent one, buy one. Definitely useful if you're doing some brake jobs. So we got that taken care of. Now what we can do is grab a 15 socket. We're gonna unbolt this while also holding it over that drain pan so it drains right in there. Gonna push out what's left, what's in that bolt, what's in that line there. It's gonna start dripping so what I'm gonna do is just make sure that everything poured out before we move anywhere else.We got our factory caliper assembly off of our 2014 Ram on the table next to our Power Stop red caliper and I wanna take you through similarities and differences. And first off guys, there's not a whole lot talk about as far as differences. Really the biggest difference is going to be that high temperature resistant red powder coating. The red isn't gonna crack, flake, or otherwise fade off under extreme heat which we know the brake assembly can be under at almost all time. So red is gonna stay on there and honestly this is a perfect blend of form and function, right? It's got the exact same OEM quality materials, OEM quality fit, finish, all of that same as your factory caliper assembly. Only difference here is that it's gonna look good while performing that exact same function. Now in the kit everything you need to make sure that you're putting this back together properly is included. You've got the retainer clips for your pads, you've got the bleeder screw, the clips that are all included in the kit. You've also got the gaskets or washers to make sure you're doing this properly and make sure there's a leak-free finish. It's also high-performance leak-tested to make sure that it's completely sealed at all times. It's pressure-tested, all that good stuff. So right out of the box, OEM quality stuff, just looking better. Now what's also recommended is of course to pick up new pads and rotors anytime you're doing a brake job like this but for the sake of the video what we're gonna do is just use our factory rotor and the factory pads we have here to show you guys what it would take it to get it reassembled. Now what we're gonna have to do here is take apart the caliper. I recommend taking the caliper off of the bracket, unbolting these two, assembling the pads into the bracket, and then the bracket and pads onto your rotor. So that's what we're gonna do, grab a 13 socket and pop these guys off.All right, from here we're gonna grab the 13 socket, just get these bolts out of the way to disconnect the caliper from the bracket to make life easier. Hold on to those bolts. All right, so we got this disconnected, let's focus on this bracket here. We're gonna set our brake pads into place using these new clips. All right, next up here guys is pretty crucial. What we're gonna do is take some anti-seize lubricant or brake lubricant and what we're gonna do is put a little bit in the pockets where these clips are going to contact, make sure we're avoiding any squealing, any squeaking. We're also gonna do the same for the edges of our brake pads. Again, it's recommended to replace your brake pads and your rotors. We're using our factory ones just for the sake of argument here just for the sake of the video. So I'm gonna put a little bit of lubricant on the edges where the clips will come in contact with that, avoid metal on metal squeaking and then finally on the back I'll just do a little bit to avoid any squeaking there as well. So only takes a little bit. Also recommend picking up latex gloves. You don't wanna use cloth because it will just soak right up, kind of get a little everywhere. Just gonna hit a little dab in there, little dab in there, in all the four corners, rub that guy in, cover that surface. We're gonna do the same thing on the inside here. And then just hit it on the inside of the clip a little bit. Perfect.Now what you don't wanna do is get any of this nonsense on the actual ceramic pad surface. So when you're doing this make sure you're not touching the pad surface. Just gonna touch the top and the bottom here. We're gonna install those clips onto the edges. All right, perfect. Now we can set our pad into place on the bracket, just like that. Same thing on the other side. Perfect. Now what we can do is just take a little bit on our finger and hit the back here just a little bit, not the front. You don't wanna be doing this on the pad surface of course. We're just trying to avoid any brake noise or excessive brake noise with metal on metal contact. All right, wipe off any excess that you see anywhere. Make sure your pad surface is clean and there you have it.All right, next up grab your rotor. You're gonna set it back in place. Now guys, remember. I know I've said this a couple of times. It's recommended to use new brake pads and rotors. If you're reusing your factory rotors, wanna make sure you're resurfacing them. That's always a good idea. You could take it to a machine shop. They'll resurface them for you. That's always a good idea, but again for the sake of the video we're using our factory stuff just to show you what the install is like. So we got that rotor back on. Let's grab that bracket and pad assembly. We'll carefully put that in and bolt that down first.All right, so to hold that rotor in place we just threw a little bit of gaff tape on there just to hold it up, might be a good idea. Slide your bracket in place and line it up with those factory mounting holes. All right, grab your factory bolts, put them all the way through. We're gonna tighten it down by hand just a couple of threads to hold it in place. All right, took the gloves off here to feel my way around. We got both of our bolts started. Let's grab our 21 socket and tighten the bracket down. All right, so now you can grab your caliper. We're gonna set it into place over the pads and we're gonna use the screws included in the kit to bolt it down to the bracket. So if you need to you can push in the bolts, thread this guy in by hand just to hold it in place top and bottom. Now you wanna make sure you're using the correct sides. On the table we've been showing you the passenger side but here you wanna make sure the bleeder screw is at the top, so on the left side of the caliper. So this guy facing up, not at the bottom. All right, grab your 13 socket and tighten these guys up. If you need to, grab a skinny wrench to hold that nut but if you get on a torque on there it will tighten down. There we go, same thing on the top. Perfect. It will have side to side movement like that.All right, so now we're gonna attach our bleeder line or brake line. We're gonna take the bolt that was in there, put a new gasket over that. We're gonna have one gasket here and the other one included in the kit is gonna go flush up against this hole underneath of the banjo. I'm gonna put this guy through here and then the one through the other side and then set it in the place. We're gonna tighten this guy down by hand. Gonna go all the down. All right, so it's gonna sit just like this. Grab your socket and tighten that down with your 15. Gonna make sure this is nice and square, tighten it down.Before we get to actually bleeding the brakes, making sure there's no air in the brake line we have to remove our clamp here. So I'm just gonna pinch, push that guy down and let go. That's gonna push brake fluid through and it's gonna settle in. All right, next step is pretty important here. We gotta torque down our bolts. Now the caliper bolts to the bracket, these 13 millimeter bolts here, you're gonna torque them down a 24 foot-pounds. We've already taken care of that. The two bolts holding on the bracket to the hub assembly, torque it down to a 130 foot-pounds. I got my torque wrench here. Let's torque her down. All right, and finally that bottom one. Perfect. Now we can bleed our brakes.All right, guys, now it's time to bleed our brakes. Now this is gonna be a pretty in-depth process. You wanna have a helping hand on deck. This is a 100% two person job. You're gonna have one person sit in the driver seat. I got my buddy Joe up there helping me out. What they're gonna do is pump the brakes and we're gonna communicate throughout this whole process, rinse, and repeat. So here's what's gonna happen, grab a 10 millimeter wrench and a tube or a hose like this. We're gonna remove the dust cap on the bleeder screw. We're gonna connect this, our wrench, and then our hose to the end here. Now what we're gonna do is Joe on the driver seat is gonna pump his brakes a couple of times to build up pressure and hold it to the floor. I'm gonna open the screw and that's gonna release all the air and some of that brake fluid through this hose into our drain pan or our bucket or oil pan. You wanna have something underneath here with that hose feeding into it. Once all that is taken care of I'm gonna close it while it's still on the ground while the pedal is still pressed and once it's closed Joe is gonna let go. We're gonna keep doing that until we're seeing a steady stream of brake fluid coming through this hose with no air bubbles. Now, while you're doing this you wanna keep an eye on your master cylinder under the hood making sure you're not running out of brake fluid. As it gets low top it back off. So that means you're gonna have to have brake fluid on deck using DOT 3. So we're gonna hold this off. What I'm gonna do is have Joe pump the brakes couple of times and press and hold. When Joe is holding the brake pedal down I'm gonna open this guy up and you're gonna see that come through this hose. All the air is coming out. Pedal still to the floor. All right, I'm gonna close this guy up, just getting it nice and snug, not over-tightening. You don't wanna snap that brake screw...that bleeder screw out. With this thing closed, Joe is pumping, building up that pressure again, open it back up with Joe still holding that brake pedal down. As you can see there's less bubbles here. Close it up, do it again.All right, he's holding the brake pedal down. I'm gonna open it again. As you can see every time that we do this there's less and less bubbles coming out and actually we're seeing a pretty good steady stream now. So I'm gonna close it up, seeing a couple more bubbles, do it one more time. Got a couple bubbles here. So Joe is pumping. He's holding the brake down. I'm gonna open it up. There we go. No bubbles whatsoever. We got a steady stream. Close is it up and we're good. All right, so now that we're complete in that process we have to disconnect this hose, make sure the other end is still in that bucket or you're still into that oil pan. We're gonna slowly break this off and all this fluid is gonna dump right into the bucket through that hose. All right, you can see that draining out, remove that. Make sure it all drains into the pan, can take our wrench off and we're gonna put that dust cover right back on top. All right, and that's how you bleed your brakes.All right, now another important step once you're done bleeding the brakes and both sides are taken care of, of course you wanna repeat that process for the other side. You wanna look at your master cylinder here and check the minimum and the maximum lines. Now, not a whole lot came out so we're in pretty good shape right now, but what we wanna do is take this cap off and top it off. Now you wanna use the appropriate brake fluid. Now check your cap. It will tell you DOT 3, DOT 4, whatever the case is. We're using DOT 3 as per this cap. So I'm gonna take this cap here and just top it off to the max line. Perfect, put the cap back on. And guys, once you take care of this you're good to go.Well, guys, that's gonna wrap up my review and install for the Power Stop performance front calipers in red available for the '02 to '18 Ram 1500s excluding the SRT-10 model. If you're looking to pick this up, $160 bucks gets you both front calipers and brackets. All you gotta do is shop right here at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Sleek and Functional. The PowerStop Performance Front Brake Calipers – Red directly replace factory calipers. These calipers are the perfect fusion of form and function for the custom or stock wheels on your Dodge RAM 1500.
Quality Construction. These calipers feature pins, clips, and bleeder screws that are made with stainless steel. They have a corrosion resistant, heat-treated red powder coating. The EPDM high temperature rubber ensures longer life. The high caliber silicone lubricant enables a smoother operation. Leaks are averted through the intense pressure testing process.
Simple Installation. You can easily complete the installation process for these direct fit replacement calipers with basic hand tools and moderate mechanical expertise. An installation guide is available on the PowerStop website.
Application. The PowerStop Performance Front Brake Calipers – Red have been designed to fit all 2002-2018 Dodge RAM 1500 models, excluding SRT-10. Premium abutment clips are included where applicable.
Information on PowerStop's proper Break-In Procedure can be found here: https://www.powerstop.com/brake-pad-break-in-procedure/
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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