(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Power Stop Evolution Cross-Drilled and Slotted 5-Lug Rotors; Rear Pair (02-18 RAM 1500, Excluding SRT-10 & Mega Cab)
Power Stop Z36 Extreme Truck and Tow Carbon-Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads; Front Pair (06-18 All, Excluding SRT-10 & Mega Cab)
Power Stop Z36 Extreme Truck and Tow Carbon-Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads; Rear Pair (02-18 RAM 1500, Excluding SRT-10 & Mega Cab)
Hey, guys, Adam here with AmericanTrucks.com. And today we're taking a closer look at and installing the Power Stop Evolution cross-drilled and slotted rotors for the front of all 2002 to 2018 RAM 1500s. It's gonna be good for the guys out there who are daily driving their truck who really wanna put that stopping power back at the front end. A set of cross-drilled and slotted rotors like this guy here is not only gonna keep up with your factory style rotors as far as quality is concerned, but it's gonna take cooling and heat dissipation a little bit further, which definitely improves that stopping power as well.Now, the cross-drill that you see here, these four drilled holes in that pattern allow for cooling to get through and heat dissipation to escape. Now that's gonna be great for keeping that surface cool so your brake pads have a more solid contact. You also have slots here going in between those cross-drilled sections which is gonna allow surface dust, debris, any of that nonsense you don't want on the surface, to escape. It gives it that route off of the brake pad and rotor surface. So that's gonna help with stopping power as well. Inside of your rotor, you have a vented vein design, which is similar to the factory rotors. It's taking it a little bit further, a little bit bigger, which also helps with heat dissipation and cooling, giving the air vents to cut through that rotor as well. Sounds like a lot of nonsense, I know, but it does have a big function in keeping your brake pads and rotors cool to increase that stopping power. So your zero to 60 foot times are definitely going to improve with these installed.Now, these guys are also zinc-plated to help with rust and corrosion resistance. Now, when it rains, guys might see a thin layer on the top surface. It is a metal, so that is inevitable, but once you hit those brake pads, it scrapes it right off. These are not going to rust and corrode at all over time. They're gonna hold up in the long run which is definitely something you want from a rotor. But know when it does rain, you might see that surface rust layer but it comes right off. It still has a zinc plating and it is still rust-resistant. It also is made from a high-quality, military-grade G3000 metallurgy, which is basically the process in which this metal is made. It is absolutely high quality, top quality, if I do say so, which is definitely something you want from a rotor as well.Now, guys, if you're looking to pick up that front pair, it's gonna come in right around $150, which, in my opinion, is pretty affordable. It's honestly not too far off from a set of factory rotors so, in my opinion, you might as well get that upgrade for a couple extra bucks. Whenever you do rotors, it is a good idea to pick up new pads. Your old pads, if you were to use them, they're already grooved for that factory rotor. So when you switch up to this new design, they would wear out a little bit faster if you're reusing pads. So pick up pads at the same time to be a little on the safe side. Now, the whole install, I'm gonna give one out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. Anybody can tackle it with the correct tools on hand. Can also get it done in an hour, maybe two, from start to finish but it's really not that big of a deal. I'd say you're gonna spend about 30 on each side. I'm gonna show you every step of the process. Let's get to it.Tools used in this install include an air gun to get our wheels off or use a lug wrench or something similar, impact gun, 19-millimeter wrench, 13-millimeter swivel socket, and short socket, 21-millimeter deep socket, small extension. It's also recommended to pick up a dual piston caliper tool from your local auto parts store.All right, guys. The first step, obviously, we have to get the wheel out of the way. So if you're working on the ground in the driveway at home make sure you're using proper jack stands to support the weight of the vehicle. If you're popping the wheel off, it's always safe to put the wheel under the front of the vehicle under the K member. Just in case any of the jack stands fail, they'll catch it. Be safe. We're working on a lift so it's a little bit easier. So grab your impact gun or whatever you're using to get those lugs out of the way and remove your wheel.All right. Now, at this point, guys, if you're doing brake pads as well as the rotors that we're doing in this video, you wanna do something a little different than what I'm doing but it's not super different. So what you're gonna do if you're doing pads is remove the two bolts holding the caliper on to the caliper bracket. That way, you can swap your pads oust easier. Now, because we're not doing pads here, I'm not gonna remove this separately. I'm gonna pull the bracket and caliper out in one piece. Now in order to do that, I'm gonna remove these two 21-millimeter bolts holding the entire assembly together. If you're only doing rotors, you can do it my way. But if you're doing brake pads as well, you might wanna take these apart in two pieces, which is really just two extra bolts. So we're gonna skip those. Grab a 21-millimeter socket and remove these two larger bolts.At this point, we can take the whole bracket assembly out in one. Now, what you wanna do is take note that this is your brake line here. You don't wanna damage this at all. So what you wanna do is either tuck it up and wedge it somewhere up here to hold it in place without putting tension on this line or grab a coat hanger or a bungee cord or ratchet straps, something similar, to make sure this isn't going to be hanging down.Now, really, it's so simple. We're just gonna pull our rotor off straight back, set it aside, and pick up our new Power Stop and throw them right on and repeat the process in the opposite order.All right. Now, we can take our front driver side, and they are labeled. You wanna make sure you're using the side-specific ones. There is a little sticker right on the front there, front driver side. Line up the studs to the holes and set it into place. All right. So we got our new one on, at least loosely laid on. We have our stock one in my hand. I wanna just take you guys through some of those similarities and differences between the two. And as far as similarities go, they are made from the same quality material. So your new rotor isn't going to lose any quality compared to your OEM components. You always wanna use OEM-quality stuff as far as the actual materials used. So the zinc plating, all of that corrosion and rust resistance, is all still present in your Power Stop like it was in your factory one. As a matter of fact, this isn't going to corrode as much as you see here on the factory one because of the additional coating layers.Now, the biggest difference, obviously, being your drilled and slotted design. So this is your solid plate from the factory, drilled, slotted. Basically, what that does, and I know we talked about this earlier, is these are going to allow for cooling vents whereas the slots are gonna allow for dust and debris to exit the rotor surface, preventing a clean pad surface for braking and stopping power. It also has a vented vein design that we mentioned earlier, which is the interior components, making sure that it has heat dissipation and cooling vents available so that all of that heat can escape and cooling can come through, making sure that the brakes stay cool. Now the factory one does have those vented veins but just a little bit more prominent on your new Power Stops.Really, those are the big things that we wanna mention here. Visually, obviously, a huge difference compared to stock, which we'll see through the spokes of our wheels. So I wanna set this aside, show you guys how that caliper and bracket goes back on, which is really very, very simple. So let me get this heavy thing down.All right. At this point, we have our caliper down here on our lower control arm. What we're gonna do is take that whole bracket assembly and set it over our rotor. Now, it might give us a bit of a struggle because it's gonna be a tight squeeze going over the new rotor. So we may need to decompress our brake pads a little bit in order to get it to fit. But we'll see how this is going.All right. So if you're having trouble getting the entire assembly back on because you have to compress the brake pads, you are gonna have to take your caliper off of that bracket. So that's what we're gonna do. I'm gonna show you what that process looks like. So what we're gonna do is take a 13 socket and remove the two other bolts that I mentioned earlier to take that caliper off of the bracket and we're gonna decompress.All right. So just like that, we're gonna compress our dual piston caliper. That way we can fit everything back in. All right. So you wanna grab a dual piston caliper tool. So what you're gonna do, hook that around the front and basically, just pump straight in until it makes contact and it will compress those pistons. All right. Now, we didn't really need that much. Cool. So now it's all the way. Release it. We can put it back together. We're gonna put our caliper right on that lower control arm. We're gonna install our bracket first. All right. So now we're gonna take our bracket, lay it into place on our rotor. Basically, what you're doing is seating those pads in the bracket and lining up the holes to the back end, making sure that it will line up. I'm gonna grab that factory bolt, set it through to hold your brake bracket, your caliper bracket, in place. All right. So we got the bottom one in. Now, the top one. All right. Now, you can grab your 21 socket and tighten those down.All right. So now you can grab your caliper, set it back into place over those pads. And because we compressed it, it should seat very, very easily. Line up those holes and put in your factory 13-millimeter bolts. You wanna get those in by hand a couple of threads to get things started. You can grab your 19 wrench to hold that nut inside to keep it from spinning and tighten these guys down.All right, guys. Once that's taken care of, repeat the exact same process on the other side. Throw your wheels on, hop in the car, pump your brakes a couple of times to get that caliper to compress again and you'll be good to go.Well, guys, that's gonna wrap up my quick overview and install of the Power Stop Evolution cross-drilled and slotted brake rotors for the front of all 2002 to 2018 RAM 1500s. If you wanna pick up this option, the Evolution from Power Stop, you can do so right here at AmericanTrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Sleek Look. The Power Stop Evolution Cross-Drilled and Slotted Rotors – Front Pair are perfect for augmenting the braking power during daily driving in your Dodge RAM 1500. They have a sleek dynamic appearance that looks awesome behind open-faced wheels.
Precision Drilled Holes. These rotors are cast with G3000 grade metallurgy. They feature maximized cooling with precision drilled holes. Gas and debris is reduced by the rounded slot design. The silver zinc dichromate plating ensures superior rust-resistance. These rotors are innovatively designed and made to provide lasting performance value.
Direct Fit Installation. These rotors were designed to have a direct fit installation process. They use the factory mounting points. The direct fit and vane count do not require any modifications. You can download a comprehensive installation guide from the Power Stop website.
Application. The Power Stop Evolution Cross-Drilled and Slotted Rotors – Front Pair is designed to fit all 2002-2018 Dodge RAM 1500 models.
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Fitment: 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 Details
Power Stop AR8750XPR
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(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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