(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$84.95 (kit)FREE Shipping
So if you own an '06 to '18 Ram 1500 and you're looking for hands down, the most affordable and the simplest way to get rid of that factory rake, you're tired of that nose dive, you wanna level things out, and more importantly, you wanna fit up to 35-inch tires without any clearance issues, then you should be checking out the 2-inch Pro Billet Strut Spacer kit available from Supreme Suspensions. At around the $80 price point, this is the least expensive lift kit currently available for the Ram 1500 '06 to '18 years. And like I just mentioned, it'll easily allow you to fit 33-inch tires lock to lock and it will even allow you to fit up to 35-inch tires lock to lock, again, without any contact or rubbing, whatsoever. Other nice part about this spacer lift is it's a relatively straightforward install compared to a full lift kit. And at around two inches, it's gonna keep your suspension geometry relatively in spec so you don't gotta worry about any premature wear on those suspension components, even if you do take your truck off-road and you put that suspension through a lot of articulation. This is definitely a job that you can get done at home with hand tools. You might need a little bit of knowledge or experience. It'll take you around two to three hours. But if you've never done something like this before, don't worry. I'm actually gonna walk you guys through the install. I'm gonna give this install a pretty modest two out of three wrenches on my patented difficulty meter.So, again, if you want one of the least expensive front lift kits for the Ram 1500, I'm gonna show you guys exactly what tools you need in just a second and then we'll get started on the Install. All right, guys, before we get started, you'll need some standard drive ratchets. You'll need a 5/16 Allen head socket or Allen key. You'll need a full metric deep socket set from 8-millimeters to 24-millimeters, and you're gonna need a couple of metric and SAE wrenches including a 15, 17, and 18-millimeter wrench, and a 13/16 wrench. You'll need a breaker bar and a pry bar. And optional but helpful tools include some spray lubricant, some bungee cord, an impact swivel, some Channellocks, some pliers, a hammer, some Loctite, and an impact gun. All right, first we're gonna disconnect our sway bar end link, that way our lower control arm can drop down and the sway bar is gonna remain where it is. You're gonna need a 16-millimeter deep socket for this nut. All right, next we're gonna disconnect our tie rod end link here. You're gonna use a 21-millimeter socket for this guy. All right, once you've pulled that nut, you wanna smack the boss on the knuckle right here to loosen the joint. You wanna be careful. You don't wanna hit your rotor. All right, to make it a little bit easier, we are gonna be moving the knuckle around a lot so we're gonna pop the caliper off. You're gonna need a 13-millimeter socket to pull the two bolts holding it on together. It's helpful to have some Vise-grips. You actually have to hold this little nut right here, otherwise, they'll spin together. All right, now that those two bolts are pulled, we're gonna go ahead and pry the caliper off with a pry bar. We're gonna hang it up out of the way with a bungee cord. All right, before we pop the ball joint, we wanna keep the lower control arm, generally, in its place, that's gonna keep tension off of the bottom strut bolt and nut. So we're gonna pop that strut bolt and nut first. You're gonna need a 24-millimeter socket for the nut itself. And you wanna hold the head of the bolt with a 21-millimeter socket or a wrench. All right, now we're gonna pop this little wire here. It's a Christmas tree fitting so just gently release it with your hands. Then we're gonna pop our ball joint. You're gonna need a 21-millimeter deep socket for this. And if you're using an impact gun, it's helpful to have a swivel. All right, once you got that nut removed, it's the same deal. Go ahead and smack the top of the knuckle right there and that should free it. All right, now we're gonna finally release our strut. There are three nuts holding it to the top here. You're gonna need a 15-millimeter wrench. It's helpful to have a ratcheting wrench. It is a tight fit if you try and get a socket in there. All right, guys, so we got to the fun part. Now I wanna stress, you gotta take your time and be careful with this. Basically, what we're gonna do next is we're actually gonna get enough leverage on the lower control arm so that we can clear it. We wanna get the tongues [SP] out of here on the strut itself. There are a couple ways to do this. Basically, the easiest way, if you're doing it by yourself, is to have a big old pry bar like me, get some leverage inside the hole in the lower control arm, and press down on it. Now, I'm actually gonna use all of my weight in order to push it down because the rubber bushings have a lot of tension on them. Again, make sure your truck is really secure on your lift or your jack stands before you do this. All right, with our strut removed, we can throw our spacer in place and we're gonna tighten it down with all the hardware. You're gonna need the flat washers, crush washers, and nuts in the kit. And you're gonna need a 17-millimeter deep socket to tighten everything down. Now, it's also helpful to have some Loctite. You wanna make sure that these things stay on nice and tight. You don't want them coming loose at all. Otherwise, you could have some vibration in your driveline and you definitely don't want to pull this stuff off again. All right, with our spacer installed, we're gonna put the strut back in the same exact way we pulled it out with our big old pry bar. And make sure when you throw the strut in there, because of that added space, you wanna line up the studs with the holes where the strut's gonna actually sit, that way the tongues can clear the lower control arm. All right, with our strut in place, you can sit on that pry bar again or if you have a friend helping you push it down, line up the strut with the hole there, and that bolt should slide in just fine. You might need to give it a little bit of motivation with your hammer. All right, now we're gonna put the nut back on this bolt here. You might have noticed I put the bolts in the opposite direction. The only reason I did that is because it's a little bit easier and it doesn't affect functionality whatsoever. Just wanna make sure you torque it down good, just the way it came off. So, again, you're gonna need your 21 and 24-millimeter sockets for this. All right, now that our strut bolt and nut are in place, we're gonna get our ball joint back into the knuckle itself, before we secure everything else. It's helpful to have a floor jack. You can put that underneath the lower control arm, crank it up just a little bit. Make sure the truck does not come off your jack stands or your lift. That should give you just enough and then you're gonna push down on the upper control arm with that big old pry bar, get the stud through the boss, and then you can tighten that nut back on.All right, once you got that nut in place, you can remove your pry bar, grab your 21-millimeter deep with your swivel like me, go ahead and tighten that down. All right, now that our knuckle is secure, we're gonna install our tie rod end. And, again, you're gonna need a 21-millimeter deep socket for the stud. All right, next we're gonna do our sway bar end here. Go ahead and put that rubber piece on with the little top hat there and secure that nut. All right, you're gonna need your 16-millimeter deep socket to tighten this guy down. All right, guys, we're almost done here. We're gonna go ahead and throw our caliper back in place. We're gonna reuse those 13-millimeter bolts that we removed earlier. So if you hadn't guessed, you're gonna need your 13-millimeter socket and it's also helpful to have those Vise-grips like I used previously. All right, guys, last step is throwing those nuts on top of the strut there. You'll need that 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench in order to tighten these guys down. All right, so once you've got everything buttoned up, you can take your truck off those jacks or the lift and that should wrap up the install. And that also wraps up my review of Supreme Suspensions' 2-inch Pro Billet Strut Spacer kit, fitting your '06 to '18 Ram 1500. I'm Travis, thanks for watching and for all things Ram, keep it right here americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Top-Notch Style. Instead of allowing your 2006-2018 Dodge RAM 1500 to blend into the crowd of trucks on the road, install Supreme Suspensions' 2 in. Pro Billet Strut Spacer Leveling Kit. This high-end, Billet Series kit is designed to give you a serious 2 in. boost for an aggressively intimidating stance that will turn heads wherever you go.
High-End Functioning. Featuring 2 strut spacers, this lift kit allows you to enjoy a completely level stance so that tackling trails is easier than ever. The kit also works to maintain your truck's impressive factory ride, unlike many other lift kits, for an unbeatably smooth drive despite the added inches.
Injection-Molded. In order to ensure this strut spacer leveling kit is as reliable as possible in all types of conditions, it is built from ultra high density urethane that can stand up to the toughest conditions. The kit is also injection-molded for added strength, meaning you won't have to worry about it succumbing to rust or corrosion.
Warranty. Thanks to its limited lifetime warranty, you can be sure that this leveling kit will give you the best quality possible. For details and limitations, see the full warranty.
Installation. In just 2 hours, those with moderate mechanical skills will be able to secure this leveling kit without a problem.
Application. Supreme Suspensions' 2 in. Pro Billet Strut Spacer Leveling Kit perfectly fit 2006-2018 4WD RAM 1500s without Air Ride.
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Fitment: 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 Details
Supreme Suspensions DGRM06FL2000
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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